CHA54

clayton

modded the radiator today to suit the 2zz engine, machined up new 34mm inlet/outlets to weld onto the end tanks, chopped off the old ones, plated off the holes and welded the new ones in place:

Radiator hoses should be fairly easy using bits of chopped up silicone hose and alloy hardline in between:

wasn't it "Head to Head" that the victorian's were using to get their stock headers ported?

I like to keep all the stock gear, always easier to sell an unmodified car.

Manifold's fully welded and ported now, got a couple of tight spots finished off by Craig at Extreme Custom Engineering in Archerfield as I couldn't get my standard tig torch in to weld it properly.... next purchase will be a weldcraft WP-50 micro torch :)

Also made a start on the radiator, using an AE101 china radiator custom-mounted with the inlet and outlet relocated. Undecided on what thermofans I'll be using but probably a set of WRX fans with integral shrouds. I've got the radiator mounted as far forward as possible.

Pippy's car has had both, when it changed from supercharged to turbo it picked up 23kw atw the wheels with 3psi less boost... with the same low down response/torque the charger had.

I've personally witnessed a couple of 4agze's also gaining 20kw ATW on the same boost when the SC12 was ditched for a turbo

try undoing the fuel cap to the tank to see if there's any vacuum before trying to hot-start it.

Have you messed with the stock purge valves at all?

Could also try with a different key to see if it's something to do with the immobiliser not disengaging correctly.

Toyota should be able to pull some data from the ECU with their scan tool which would help pin-point the problem.

have got most of the turbo manifold sorted now, just a couple more welds to go then it's ready for facing, porting and coating.

We used to repair toshiba's at a previous employer, you've broken it with the other AC adapter. Time to hope it's still under warranty and dont let on that you used a different charger on it.

On the old ones it was a pain as the toshiba charger connector was the same as the portable canon printers, we used to get heaps in requiring a $1200 non-warranty motherboard after being connected to the canon charger.

Your original engine is scared to break, it knows you have a replacement sitting waiting... ;)

you need to buy and install longer wheel studs, there's not enough thread poking through to secure the wheel with the current studs on those wheels. Best to sell the wheels and buy some that fit correctly.

would be a lot cheaper to just buy a set of 3 piece jap wheels that fit properly.

the older IRS corolla's handle much better than the current torsion-beam setups, if you get a FWD levin or trueno with superstrut suspension that isn't worn out then you'll find their handling even better.

I know pippy had an eye-opening experience when he first drove my old AE92 levin after driving his turbo ZZE, couldn't believe how much better the AE92 handled.

http://www.toyotacressida.net < Need to sign up before you see the real forum

http://www.jzxproject.com

You need to cut the inner skins of the rear guards and flare the crap out of the outside, then weld in a section to the gap in the inner section.

There's heaps of Import AE101 Levin's and Trueno's in QLD, quite a few AE92 and AE111 Levin's also.

made a start on the manifold after work today, I've repositioned the turbo slightly to make installation easier and used a holesaw to recess the steampipe into the flange by 4mm which will make porting from oval to round neater.

Turbo flange is lined up to the center of the exhaust ports, so the manifold will end up as a symetrical ram-horn style:

The turbo setup on my 2zz has cost:

Steampipe Manifold - $600

Custom TD05-18G turbo - $700

525cc MWR Injectors - $435

Fuel Rail mod - $60

Fuel Pressure Reg & return system mod - $300

Dump pipe - $200

Cooler - $180

Full aftermarket ECU - $1700

Silicone joins & Clamps - $140

Bosch 3 bar map/intake air temp combo sensor - $45

PK20R-11 denso plugs - $28

6 puck Xtreme Clutch - $200

That's close enough to $5K once a BOV & cooler pipes are included.

If I wanted to go with forged pistons I'd buy a new short motor from toyoa Aus for $2200 and a set of drop-in mahles, gasket kit, head bolts and some other small stuff from MWR. That would total less than $5K.

If you can't do the assembly/installation yourself then the largest part of your budget will be labour from whatever workshop/s you use (usually $80/hr and a ton of hours required).

that kit still wont fit. The kits designed for Left Hand Drive vehicles dont fit cars in Aus.

Best way is to have a local shop fabricate a steam pipe manifold and pipework to suit your car.

why did you buy a corolla in the first place? Are you willing to drop $40K+ on the FT86 when it's released, or will one of the ton of other similarly priced performance cars be more desireable?

stock internals.

More pics...

Bezel and Gauges sittiing in cluster face:

Bosch Combo 3bar Map/Intake Air Temp sensor and NGK AFX Wideband:

Turbo position in bay:

more stuff arrived, progress should be faster now.

Laser cutting order all done, got a heap of 2zz exhaust, T25 turbine inlet and exhaust, cluster bezel and 2jz flanges cut, also reveived another shipment from MWR with bosch 525cc injectors and a waterpump.

ok so i am sick of replacing my tensioner for my idler pulley on my 2zz, it keeps ending up with a clacking sound at low rpm. has anyone found an aftermarket one that is better than oem? and has anybody ever tried to run a solid adjuster in place of the dampner to see how it goes? obviosly with a solid adjuster you would have to keep adjusting it as the belt stretches....

Shouldn't be too hard to make a turnbuckle style adjuster to replace the hydraulic ram. couple of heim joints and threaded hex tube and you're most of the way there to having it completed.

it doesn't fit, your steering column etc sits in the way.

do valve stem seals first then, highly unlikely to have worn guides. You can do the stem seals with the head on the engine.

glazed bores would have be my guess. Who tuned it?

You can also test valve stem seals by driving down a long hill engine braking, then when you get back on the throttle if there's a cloud of smoke out the exhaust it's valve stem seals.

What does the wideband tell you while it's warming up?