CHA54

what price range? $300-700?

Just go to MWR's site and select one. The plates with an almost fully enclosed damper spring are typically more reliable.

no. The "Heavy Duty" version of the exedy/xtreme/clutch industries/competition clutch/ACT pressure plates have a higher clamp force than the OEM ASIN pressure plate. A good clutch shop can uprate the OEM pressure plate to usually develop more clamp than any of the aftermarket pressure plates.

A combination I would go for is a HD Exedy pressure plate and a new OEM Asin clutch plate from a ZZT celica, this is usually too much work and costs too much for most people.

the difference you notice is all down to the pressure plate.

not on the rear you dont. Do you want flush fitment or a mexican setup? Do you want to be able to run the car low and corner hard without chewing up the sidewall of the tyres on the guards?

the discs xtreme use are not as good as the OEM Asin discs in terms of damper design and strength.

I can post photo's of all the different common aftermarket clutch discs with spring retainers broken that I've pulled from Corolla's and MR2's.

same clutch dics fits both, sportivo pressure plate has more clamp. The OEM toyota discs have much better dampers than the PBR or Exedy discs that xtreme use.

Oon the aftermarket discs, with "spirited driving" the damper spring retainers eventually snap and the spring falls out jamming the pressure plate so you can't disengage the clutch.

get it to toyota immediately, they'll be able to tell in the logs what the pedal request position, throttle plate angle and if the brake was on at the same time where it should have gone to failsafe.

If you dont want to buy from MWR or have a trade hookup at Toyota Aus, then you can also get extremely competitive prices from NZ. To ship a brand new R154 box to Aus is only ~$300.

Go to toyodiy, find the part number of the box you want, then email nick@nst.co.nz for a quote.

Eg, new remote shift R154... rrp $8479.26+GST NZD, his price $3510.00+GST NZD.

you can still buy E153's brand new from toyota.... Can even buy them online eg http://www.monkeywre...roducts_id=1176

MWR can also sell the Evora 6 speeds and do ship internationally: http://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/index.php?cPath=326_327_340

you could always make an SW20 E series box fit with a bit of fabrication, like the MR2 guys do with their 2gr swaps.

Or give the guys at PCS the technical info on the box and have it supported by the TCM-2000: http://www.powertraincontrolsolutions.com/transcontrol.php

closer to starting, might try and get it running on anzac day. Started final assembly on the intake side of the engine, painted the oil cooler brackets then bolted that lot up for the last time, fitted the oil pressure and temp senders for the new cluster, modified the joiner in the top water hose to accept the sender for the new cluster's temp gauge, fitted a 150psi TI sender to the FPR for the ECU then made a start on the vac/boost stuff that needs to connect to the plenum.

I didn't like the way the factory barbs/bungs come out of the plenum so I made up a medium size vac cannister and mounted it to the lift solenoid. From that cannister I've got hard lines running to the brake booster (-6) and wastegate (-4), then a vac line to the BOV and the TI style map sensor screwed into the side of the cannister for the boost gauge.

Not much left in the bay now, just the cam cover breathers to the turbo intake, FPR vac line, return line from FPR to hardline and throttle bracket. The I need to add a support bracket to the dump, weld some mounting lugs to the dump for a formed ACL heathield, wrap the dump and make the internal gate locking arm.

I've spent about 9 hours on the loom so far, it's about 80% done, just have to sort out the interior interface plugs to the body loom and it's ready to add loom tube and tape. After that it's time to add engine and gearbox oil, plug the loom in and fire it up :D

im gettin a set of rota grids 16x8 plus 10 offset but i have coil overs would it still scrub?

No chance of fitting properly without extensive guard modifications.... eg for the rear you cut the inner skin, pump the guards out wide, weld in a 20-30mm strip in the new gap, then shape and finish the outer and rear door edge to match. The fronts are a bit less work but say goodbye to your guard liners.

get another normal 2gr from any other aurion, swap all your TRD ancillaries onto it.

Sorted out the oil cooler today, made two brackets, one mounted to the side of the front engine mount bracket and another with a couple of stays to one of the bosses in the gearbox casing.

Still have to add clamps to the lines and make an alloy duct that will feed from the base of the bumper.

exhaust is fully welded now, just have to add the tip after I do the cutout in the rear bumper

Re-used the stock mid & front hangers with some added gussets

Exhaust is all tacked up now, just have to add the two hangers in the middle of the car and the two at the front near the cat. Have made it with minimal clearance to the chassis over the suspension arms to give the arms as much space as possible. With the way the muffler is mounted it wont rattle on the chassis. Will add some heat sleeve to the handbrake line and a bit of heatshield to the brake hardline and fuel tank.

Do a search on here, the toyota factory service bulletin was posted on how to do the clutch adjustment. Many mechanics will tell you there's no adjustment as it's such a pain to get at the pushrod adjustment under the dash.

happens across all industries, not just toyota. Easiest way to reduce operating expenses.

Interesting to see that the staff are getting a heads-up that redundancies are coming, in all the redundancies I've been involved with the first staff hear about it is usually on the morning people are being let go. Voluntary redundancies also may not work for toyota as they're not allowed to backfill a "redundant" position for 12 months.

should be quite nice with the michelin Pilot Sport 3's :)

rims turned up, 15x7 +25 Enkei J-Speeds, fit easily

try a different gear oil. Your synchro's are worn. Redline MT90 or Castrol VMX80

mounts for the back of the rear muffler are sorted. Using some Mackay A666 insulators mounted in compression, will do something similar for the forward end of the muffler. These hold the muffler in place limiting it's travel, that lets me mount the muffler as high as possible for maximum ground clearance with no possibility of the muffler rattling on the body.

the exhaust uses v-band flanges... no gaskets required, easy to fit and no possibility of leaking at all. Much better than the traditional exhaust flanges that need gaskets and multiple nuts/bolts.

the plugs are pre-gapped and the denso coils can supply 100hp/cyl worth of spark anyway.

more done today, ported and sandblasted the manifold, tweaked the gate pipe on the dump a little, checked the fitment of the exhaust center section, milled the side of the HKS thermostatic oil plate and made the oil feed hardline.

Tons of space for the gate:

Can see the gate merge inside the dump:

Exhaust mid section:

Flex is nice and high:

Just enough clearance to the subframe:

-4 turbo oil feed hardline:

HKS oil plate with 12mm to -4 banjo mounted: