CHA54

Pic of the Kaizen Garage Adaptronic plugin, it has sides that can be broken off so it fits in both the wide and narrow 2zz ECU cases:

Kaizen Garage does an Adaptronic 440D based plugin board for the sportivo now.  Full replacement board that screws into the stock ECU case and even runs the coolant temp gauge properly without the need for extra temp senders etc

All the fabrication work is now complete, next up is a touch up of the tune on the road before heading to the dyno

I think it's a good effort for the stock 1zz to still be going strong after 6 years at more than double the stock power :)

Got the other cooler pipe done today

The old girl's getting a makeover, new cooler, bigger turbo, shorter pipework, 3" exhaust, new fuel system, CAN enabled Vi-Pec V88 ECU and a few other tricks...

Yep, straight from Toyota. The majority of spare parts guys can't deal with requests for parts that aren't from the vin/frame of your own. I'd grab a frame number from a manual celica and get them to look up the part from that, eg ZZT231R-BLFGFQ for a 2004 manual 2zz celica.

FWD corolla's don't use spigot bearings, if the gearbox isn't crunching gears I wouldn't bother getting the syncro's replaced either. The OEM 2zz clutch assemblies are excellent from Toyota, not ridiculously priced either. The ZZT231 kits have a nicer/stronger damper assembly on the clutch disc than the South African spec ZZE123's we get in Australia.

The exedy plates pop retainer springs out and jam the assembly when they're given a hard time, drive them normally and you don't have a problem. I've got a pile of exedy plates in the shed which have had the springs pop out from corolla's and SW20 MR2's.

On a stock standard car a TYK 7334HD will do the job if you don't drive like a tool. Have put over 100,000km on the same clutch in a turbo 1zz that puts out 140kw+ to the wheels.

Luke didn't end up using all those nuts and bolts he had plated, I did point out to him at the time that electroplating high tensile suspension components is a really bad idea...

I serviced my GTS twice as much as was required by the warranty/service schedule, as changing the oil more often is better for reducing engine wear.

When there is a persistent check engine light on the dash, the dealer will investigate it, if there's no persistent light there's no reason to do a scan. Any major issue will flag a persistent check engine light.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Entry-Key-Remote-Fob-Shell-Case-2-Button-for-TOYOTA-CELICA-CAMRY-WS-/321704886463?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item4ae71b00bf

That key will work, get it cut, swap in the transmitter from your original key, the follow this guide to code the new key to your immobiliser:

I'll bet those faults all had an action of "No further diagnosis required" in techstream, as they aren't hard faults. I scanned a 2013 prado on the weekend that had a whole bunch of codes logged, none were serious or required further investigation.

If you're really worried about it, pay the additional labour at the time of service for them to spend 15 minutes doing a scan, time is money for the dealer. Also note the toughbooks at the dealer are generally not connected to any printers...

If there's no hard CEL on the dash, there's no need for them to do a scan.

normal 6 speeds cost anywhere from $400-1K. I managed to get a damaged 2zz with box for $400

direct swap. If the 6-speed doesn't have the speedo sender in it, you just swap the sender from the 5-speed box into the 6 speed.

Use the 5-speed mounts, shafts, clutch, flywheel, slave etc.

I'm doing this exact swap myself again in the next couple of weekends as soon as I get a few hours spare.

you can swap in a sportivo ZZE123 6 speed to bring the cruising rev's down a little

DIY alignment :P

not really, fabricated a nice catch can for it and have been slowly sorting the final pieces of the interior. Gave up searching for a good set of doortrims after 12 months so I re-made the originals which was a massive pain, but they turned out nice.

Couple of pics:

before bumpers were bolted on properly:

does the noise/frequency increase with speed?

If you can't diagnose it yourself, take it to a mechanic.

wheel bearing

I've built this to use at the track and hillclimbs, 86 is now my daily and forester has gone to the mrs :P

I've done some initial low load tuning now on my steep driveway, basically dialing in the 30kpa>100kpa and 0rpm>1500rpm sections. I managed to get the vipec "Mixture Map" function working on the Link G4 xtreme ECU, so that makes the fuel tuning a lot easier. Has tons of torque down low and is able to reverse up my driveway with basically no throttle input :P

an older video from october prior to any real tuning taking place:

basically finished now, just looking for a clean/unbroken set of door trims before rego.... taking way too long to find a decent set.

all glass in:

Blacked out cooler and front pipes:

Front bar on:

Engine bay awaiting catch can:

the only options that are close to plug and play are the AEM setup from MWR or a powerfc wtih some repinning.

Motec M48 would be a good option if it supported VVT, but it doesn't. Motec do not have a plug and play solution for the ZZE ECU header.

Adaptronic would work nicely, could even use the lotus 2zz basemap they have, but it does require a custom plug & play adapter harness. The queensland adaptronic distributor has developed a little box of tricks that allows the adaptronic ECU's to drive the ZZE instrument cluster temp gauge.

I like the vipec and link G4 ecu's myself, but they also require a custom adapter loom. I've put a vipec v44 onto pippy's 1zz turbo setup and I have a link G4 extreme running my 2zz turbo.

The benefits of ANY of the full aftermarket ecu's over the powerfc is you have full control over the engine/timing/fueling/idle and you dont need a datalogit box for logging/tuning/interfacing a wideband.

When you sell the car you can also put your stock ECU back in and take your full aftermarket ECU with you for the next car.

At the end of the day, you should be speaking to your preferred tuner to see what ECU they are most comfortable with, as you can spend $5K+ on an M800 and still get a crappy result if the tuner doesn't do a good job.

The plug and play setup for pippy's car looks like this:

that shipping cost doesn't really make it worthwhile. The clutches are basically the same, the HD exedy typically has a pink pressure plate.

putting G70 into a box with good synchro's is a bad idea.

I wouldn't put G70 into a box that doesn't already have worn synchro's. Lots of people use it in boxes that are fine apart from an incorrectly adjusted clutch master pushrod, all that does is promote syncrho wear.