CHA54
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Posts posted by CHA54
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do an ecu reset and fill it with 98 octane fuel. With that done, that's about the max power you'll get from it without spending another 2-4K on an ECU and tune. Extremely low bang for buck.
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Canberra's 4 or so 86's are all on hold (sold pending test drives) so the dealer won't let me drive one!!
Was advised a new batch is coming in at the end of the month....
added: I told him I wanted to drive the manual but he insisted the Automatic gearbox was great and a lot better.. Interesting!
That coming from the salesguy doesn't suprise me at all, given they've got a surplus of auto's in the first allocation.
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sure does, it actually requires high compression to work best.
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All this talk of power now lets get serious boys and girls .... when is someone going to turbo one ? ....... unless of course i look into...... NO NO NO i think ill be chucked outta the house if i land another custom turbo setup in the garage .... sorry fellas someone else is gonna have to pull their socks up LOL
Placing my order for a silver GTS tomorrow Bill, you know I like high compression turbo setups ;-)
I'll be purchasing a spare long motor just in case though :P Luckily there is a supply of the ~100km old test motors available and not much demand for them.
This may also be of interest to some of the track oreintated guys, stolen from another forum:
The lap by the non-tuned 86 w/ standard tyres:
What about changing to 17inch w/ better rubber?:
Lap time with the 17inch wearing Advan Neova 215/45/R17:
What about changing to 18inch with better rubber?:
Lap time with 18inch wearing Advan Neova 235/40/R18:
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disappointed about the power... i like the idea of FR, but for a car with as much options as my 15year old AE111 and barely 15KW extra, it's hard to justify...
for it's weight and being NA it really needs to be closer to around 180KW to make it move and compete with S2000s, silvias and 350/370Z..
what concerns me is the aftermarket potential, with F20C, SR20s, RBs, Kseries, Bseries there is alot of aftermarket support and alot of tuning potential, I would like to see what the tuning houses can do with the car before i jump into one.
On the dyno you'll find the FA20 will put down closer to 25-30kw more at the wheels compared to the 20V. It's got more power and torque throughout the whole range than a 2zzge.
Here's a dyno graph of the FA20 v's 190hp 2zzge in the elise:
That's an american dyno but you can see it's ~123kw which is quite a bit more than the typical 80-90kw a stock 20V will put down. They're already getting 5kw atw gains from cat-back exhausts alone, I'd expect 10-15kw more and deletion of the torque dip with full exhaust and a reflash with ECUtek or Romraider.
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I can't wait either, all the little stuff takes so damn long to complete though :P
Here's the finished instrument cluster, fitted out with speedhut gauges:
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what oil weight are you currently running? 20W50 may be too thick for the vvti to function properly given it's designed to run 5w30
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the stock LSD is torsen, you can get an aftermarket plate LSD if you wish.
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29,990. although its a very reasonable price. there is always a reason why its cheap. i'm thinking perhaps the build quality wont be as good...
the spotivo was 29,990 and that was 6 years ago when the last one was sold. coming from south africa = build quality on some was up the sh#t. not to mention the panels are ever so slightly different to the 1zz corollas sourced from japan.
not saying that the FT86 will follow the same but just a heads up before u dive into an impulse buy.
They're built in the subaru factory so should be perfectly fine in terms of build quality.
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new key probably has the remote built in like a late model toyota ley.
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The lock type on toyota's is negative trigger. Tap the alarm control wires in to the door control module which should be near the drivers kick panel.
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on a jap built car, you can see the stamping on the firewall just above the second red sticker from the left in the pic below. In my experience this is where 90% of toyota's have their VIN stamped.
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on the build plate.
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the frame numbers are standard across the model range. Eg, as far as toyota is concerned, an Aus delivered "pre-facelift" ZZE123 has a frame number of ZZE123R-GHFQFQ
The VIN is the individual identifier.
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not too much big stuff, made a throttle cable bracket, made the loom for the speedhut cluster gauges, installed central locking and full alarm, relocated the battery to the boot. Next up is finishing the fabrication for the dash cluster so the interior acrylics can be re-assembled, then modifying the AE92 GTZ seats to fit the ae82 floor. After that I'll be getting stuck into the body prep ready for paint.
Battery relocation:
Throttle bracket:
Powersteer Cooler:
Radiator Overflow tank:
Widebody Camry rear door grommets used for central locking loom:
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if the info plate isn't riveted in they bay, it's usually in the passenger door section of the body.
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you getting them flared properly (cut inner skin, flare, weld in new metal) or just getting them done with a roller/mallet?
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pull the ignition coils out of the head and look for hairline cracks down the side of the body. If there's any brown tinges aroudn the seams then it's likely they're arcing out to the head.
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they wont replace the bar on that, just refinish the rear quarter to blend the paint. anywhere from $300-600 would be my guestimate, possibly more if the person you hit gets a hire car etc from AAMI
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better video:
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just adjusting the idle speed
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Finally got the car running, fired right up after getting the trigger offset correct and idle duty sorted. For some reason the audio from the video recording of my phone is completely screwed up, in real life it's buttery smooth and exhaust is quiet but deep.
Need to tweak the acceleration enrichment to get the throttle response right but happy with it for the moment. Bay looks a bit messy as I've got the timing light setup in there and a few random temporary vac hoses and power cables.
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so where are the photo's of the rear tyres tucking in the guards?
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any of the current range of modern ECU's should be able to do the job. I had a Vipec V44 for mine but managed to get a cheap Link G4 Extreme on ebay so I'm now using that instead.
It has a lot of advantages over a powerfc, some being:
- closed loop boost control using just a mac valve. This can be based on gear, speed, rpm etc... I'm using gear-based myself for traction in lower gears.
- closed loop knock control
- Launch Control
- Onboard datalogging
- MAF deletion - the links and vipec's can retain the MAF if you want, I've gone with a MAP sensor and intake air temp sensor in the plenum.
- user definable closed loop fuel control
- flex-fuel compatibility, you can add an ethanol content sensor to your fuel system which gets wired to the ECU, then you can set the maps up to adjust fuel and timing based on the ethanol content and temperature of the fuel.
- No need for an FC Datalogit or FC-Hako for laptop connectivity/data logging
- additional outputs can be configured for whatever you want, waterspray, shift ligts, warning lights etc.
Find a tuner you trust with your engine and see what they recommend.
- closed loop boost control using just a mac valve. This can be based on gear, speed, rpm etc... I'm using gear-based myself for traction in lower gears.
2zzge AE82 sedan conversion
in Members Rides
Posted
cluster's now fully wired in, here's a pic of the gauge lighting, I ordered them with red backlights to match the original twincam stuff. I couldn't get a pic showing the odometer properly, it's not that bright in real life.