Ilivfor6
-
Posts
356 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Tutorials
News & Articles
Videos
Posts posted by Ilivfor6
-
-
Was that review on a pre recall Sportivo, as I would agree with the whole thing it is a little slow down low. But post recall the car is a lot more driveable and improved.
I think reviewers need to before they get into the guts of a review say what they like in a car as generally all reviews a biased a little towards what that is. If you prefer a classier type of car that has quiet refined driving there is no way the sportivo is for you and the review will generally reflect that. If you like to drive a car, to hear what the engine is doing the sportivo is a fabulous buy and you will love the way the engine screams if not you will just think it noisy.
I myself do not trust reviewers but instead talk to the people who already drive the cars I'm looking at and get their honest impressions and drive as many of them myself and if possible on a few occasions.
The sportivo is a car you will either really love or you won't. Test it for yourself. All of us here did and we loved it
-
I'm not too biased.........oh what the h3ll yes i am
STIVO STIVO STIVO
Oi... Oi... Oi :D
-
I noticed that when i drive with the A/C on i occasionally get this high pitched squeel like a door hinge that needs oiling. now i get this atleast once in a drive with my A/C on and its something i cant replicate as it happens under different conditions. Anyone know what it could be ?????????
Hi Bill,
Yep you are supposed to get this sound as is everyone alse from what I have researched. Both Peekay and myself had this from day one so thoroughly had it checked out. It seems it is just one of those strange noises our cars make from time to time. I have also seen it mentioned on other overseas forums too with no one having any adverse effects from it and some of those guys have done 100,000 miles. So I stopped worrying about it a long time ago.
cheers mate
-
I drove over to the Mazda dealer, went out in the SP23 without the salesman for about 35-40 minutes and then hopped back into my sportivo and drove home.
As soon as I climbed back into my car and hit the gas I remembered just how much more fun to drive mine was and it was certainly one heck of a lot more responsive and faster. The other thing you notice is just how much more solid the sportivo feels (ie: closing the door the sportivo has more of that solid feel where the Mazda feels and sound more tiney. Even my wife commented on that point of her own accord.
-
Yeah I pick up an SP23 for the wife at the end of the month.
Why an SP23 for the 2nd car... well we need a family car as we plan to start one within a couple years. That in itself should give you an indication of how I see the SP23.
My wife really wanted another Sportivo because she loves to drive mine but we really need the 2nd car to have a large boot not a hatch, and thus prefered the mazda 3 sedan shape over the corolla sedan.
The Mazda is more of a cruiser, drive it along and enjoy the scenery it certainly is not the car you take out and punt hard as you really feel the weight. As far as torque goes my stivo pretty much pulls harder in any gear and almost any rev, but it is modded some. The mazda's engine did not feel as strong down low as I thought it was going to and then would run out of breath toward the red line, but they have lowered the compression with different pistons and used a less aggressive ECU map compared to the mazda 6. All in the attempt to stop the SP23 outperforming the Mazda 6. And I agree with the others the clutch in the mazda is awfull, it just feels lifeless and the gerabox is certainly not designed for pushing the car hard.
Yesterday in the Sportivo, as I have already told Peekay & Danthuyer I had a run against an Audi S3 and up to the end of 3rd gear ended up losing by 1/2 my bonnet, very much to the Audi drivers surprise. If you wish to enjoy spirited driving look again at the Sportivo but if you do just want to cruise along comfortably go the way of the mazda for this it's a fantastic car.
Now as for suspension mods:
If you want to improve handling do the springs (get either Eibach or King Springs as these are already proven by many members here). rear swaybar and front strut brace. This will cost under a grand if you negotiate on price and will put the sportivo into a totally different handling league. It becomes very agile and a lot of fun to drive.
Or if you would like to spend more you can go a full custom koni setup with damper adjustible Shocks and matched springs with the rear sway bar and front strut brace for under $2000 fitted.
This setup gives superb handling and feel, allows you to feel everything the car is doing on the road but still remains comfortable for day to day driving. I have this setup and the car just has this total sensation of being stuck down on the road. A number of company's offer this sort of setup so you can get it from most decent tyre & suspension places.
Performance mods:
To really get the car moving and add good doses of torque down low add a CAI (cold air induction) and the CES cat back exhaust. Not only will this combination give you more low down torque but your above 6000rpm acceleration is kicked into a whole new gear. This setup will cost between $1200 & $1500 depending on the CAI you go with and give you a flywheel figure of around 152-155kw. I went with the TRD CAI which cost $470 because on the dyno it was proven to give the best all rev performance down low & up High. You can chose to have a custom one made but I chose one that already had proven dyno output where I new what I was getting.
If you wish to spend more you can then add extractors to the above for anywhere between $800-$1500. A good set of extractors will again increase your torque and power. Again I went with TRD as when I was purchasing there was not a lot to choose from and they gave a good gain of about 8kw and a very good dose of torque while still utilising the factory heat shield. Fitted the TRD Extractors cost about $1200.00. Pricey but the gains in performance certainly felt it especially betweem 3000-6000rpm
Next option is a lightweight flywheel and clutch. This changes the driving dynamic of the car completly. Driving the car you can feel the engine just wants to get up and go. The engine runs silky smooth (it really purs) the gear changes become smooth, direct and very fast and sound sensational and acceleration is much quicker. This is the best mod I have done to the car. I would strongly recommend the TOM's flywheel. A Stronder clutch & TOM's flywheel combo will set you back anywhere between $1000-$1500 depending on the clutch you choose and labour rate for the install.
A Unichip is also another good option for this car. Cost fitted & tuned is about $1200 and you will get an approx 10% gain across the board with the benefit of a lot more down low torque. Besides the Unichip there are also other similiar products but my best experiences have been with the Unichip but this is a very personal thing with each person... Or you could go the complete ECU replacement but at the moment there are only real 2 options which are Apexi Power FC or a Motec system. These both give complete control over the engine allowing you to set optimal timing for your VVT (this is the continous variable valve timing) and VVL (variable valve lift I think its called). The piggy backs such as Unichip cannot offer this. A good example is to raise the rev limit per gear and set the car to perform as lotus has and that is have the rev limit set to 8600 in 1st & 2nd, 8300 in 3rd & 4th and 8000 in 5th & 6th with the lift engagement at 6100rpm and lift disengagement at 5900rpm. The complete ECU swap though is expensive and can set you back anywhere from $3000 to $5000 including fitment & tuning.
There are also a variety of smaller little mods that can be done to the car that concentrate on optimising different systems on the car from cooling to elctrical which on their own show only slight gains but put together add up to noticeable improvements.
Sorry for the long reply but that's a general overview of what I have played with on this car as far as modding goes and once my CES exhaust arrives and the unichip is optimised for it I am expecting around 135kw at the wheels or probably around 175kw at the flywheel and all this for not a lot more than what the Mazda is costing me compared to what I bought my Sportivo for.
But again if you do not wish to mod or give the car a good hard drive every now and then get the Mazda as it is a comfortable reliable car with decent performance. But if you spend the difference between the mazda and the sportivo on mods for the sportivo you can end up with a real sleeper. Comfortable to drive day to day with ample low end torque for day to day city driving but the top end and handling to go out there and take on Audi S3's, Honda S2000's, Nissan 350Z's and even give WRX's a run for their money. All in a very reliable package. I really luv what my Sportivo has turned into and there really is not a car under $100,000 I would trade it for.
Mate if your in Melbourne PM me if you like and we can get together and you can have a try in my car to see if that is what you like... And I have no doubt a couple of other members with less modded Sportivo's would also come along for you to see theirs and that way allowing you to really make an informed decision. A car is a lot of money so it is alway best to drive & see as many as you can to make sure it is the right choice for you!
Either way you go both are good cars and you would more than likely be happy with either!
Cheers
-
A word of warning. Before playing with this ask you dealer to price a new one for you. They are very expensive, in fact enough to even shock my dealer and that was at Toyota Australia pricing without dealer margins.
Once you see the pricing you may change your mind about playing with it. The price was in the thousands the dealer told me! Even they stated that the price could not be justified.
-
Well I've done nearly 2000km since the clutch & Flywheel and not one single instance ot the old gearbox/gear change issue.
In fact I have been so confident with it that I have been practising my 1-2 changes and starting to get a lot quicker. Even with the lightened flywheel I am on most occasions kepping the car approx 200-300 rpm higher after the change than before. Almost... almost keeping it in lift :D :D :D
-
No car is level all corners, just does not happen as no car is perfectly symetrical.
Even though my suspension setup is custom made for the stivo it still sits lower on the drivers side front & back by 5mm, but the wheel alignment is very good to perfect. A Great wheel alignment really does come down to how good the person doing it is.
If you believe your toe is out and feel it is affecting the driving take your car to a good panel beater with a modern jig and they can fix the toe for you.
-
Can you provide an image of the Dyno sheet. Very loathe to spend $1000.00 without seeing one. I would like to see it just so as I am happy with the low end as I am not wishing to gain 9kw up top if I lose down low as most of my daily drive is down there.
Certainly not scared to spend money on my car (as any one from the forum who knows me can certainly attest to) I just need to ensure to myself it is money well spent.
If you cannot post it here PM me and I will send an email address you can send it to or if you can give me a link to somewhere alse you could post it. If you could do this mate it would be much appreciated.
-
hey ilivfor6,
Its great to hear that it really is THAT much better :D
I'm more than interested myself, can you tell me 2 things?
1. Is the clutch much heavier?
2. I know this can vary wildly, but roughly how much for install?, and would you recommend anyone in melb to do the work?
Thanks in advance.
The clutch is only slightly heavier than standard, barely noticeable. The main difference is you have a lot more feel through it and the take up point is instant which makes it an absolute delight to use. I have been practicing my changes and now that the gearbox is silky smooth to use I am getting much faster/better. Today for probably the first time getting on the freeway I kept it in lift all the way into 4th. My G@D was it quick and the gear changes sounded sensational :D :D
As price for install go I had Toyota do the install. For the clutch & flywheel it cost me $300.00. As it was Toyota I feel this was very reasonable. I used them because all the mechanics I use to trust have all disapeared so I used them because at least they have all the books on the car and have all the torque settings etc. Besides the guys there don't consider these 2 items a performance mod and they are right althought the car is quicker the real benefit is just how much smoother/better it is to drive.
-
The CAI is the TRD Unit. Do not know if it has guard for the MAF. But the CAI was put on 20,000km ago with trouble free driving and as no one alse with it (and there are plenty) is having troubles, plus Toyota have also seemingly ruled it out by not placing any blame on the CAI, I just wonder.
Always tricky to trace down though these issues.
-
Yes mate. Peekay has experienced the same issue. Toyota have his car and said the diagnostics recorded some strange MAF sensor readings.
Take it to your dealer and have the car put on diagnostics to see if it recorded a similiar issue!
I hope this is not a pattern starting to form after Peekay's car and the strange MAF readings rollamods took.
-
Thats alright mate, it'll make it easier for them. You can get them to work you over for me while your organising them to pay a visit IZZ-FE & Lucio.
Can you believe they still have not coughed up the extra $$$$ for the SP23 over the corolla. <_< Cmon guys I'm waiting :D :D :D
-
I was doing some data logging the other night on a car a member of this forum owns, and noticed some funny behaviour from the factory MAF sensor, it would occasionally spike when under load, which could be a candidate for hesitation, rev cut etc in certain conditions.
Thats actually very interesting as a members stivo is actually being driven by a Toyota mechanic over the last few days because it was intermitently cutting out (stalling/shutting down whatever you wish to call it). The diagnostics logged weird readings from the MAF sensor as the cause, so Toyota are still looking at it.
-
Are you calling me fat :( ... I can't believe your calling me fat :o
Lucky for you you were able to develop 'LIFT' for the 1zzg. If it was not for this and it's contribution to all 1zzg corolla owners we might of had to go for a little drive. :D
Hey sport1vo do you know people... There's someone I may want them to have a visit with
-
Yeah the sp23, what a great little car :) i knew your wife would listen to those wise words i spoke at the last cruise :PLucio - I knew we could convice her !
sorry Ilivfor6 :P
Yeah... thanks guys, I like you too. Go on a bl@@dy corolla cruise & what do they do... convince my wife to ditch the corolla sedan in favour of an SP23.
I'll be coming around to collect $16,000 from each of you soon. Beware any dark corners, I might be waiting in one of them to collect
:o :o -
Just bought a Mazda SP23 for the 2nd car. It makes me appreciate my Stivo even more. Getting back in my car after the mazda dealership I suddenly realised just how fast it really is and just how good/solid the build quality is. I now know I luv my car
Still the wife wanted it so I thought what the heck I might be able to use it to my advantage. "Honey.... seen as we got you the mazda for the 1st wedding anniversary, I would really like an LSD for my car" Hey you never know, it could work :D
-
Same here, it happened to my wife when we picked the car up new on the drive home. I don't think she reved it over 3500rpm yet on 2 occasions it did not want to go into 2nd.
I drive 50km each way to work & home again and rarely ever touch lift on the journey and it will refuse to go into 2nd and 3rd at least 1/2 a dozen times a week.
I would like to know how Toyota can explain at 3000rpm slowly changing to 3rd with the clutch pressed to the floor I can get a couple times a week grinding. I hardly ever push my car and most of what I have done to it is to improve the driveability down low so as to not have to rev the guts out of it.
I have my new TRD clutch in my hands as of today so on Friday after it is in we will have an answer as to wether a better clutch helps.
I had that happen to me too mate, slow as grandma type of shifting and the gear still cruched! My car only had 2000kms on it then. But it seemed to have disappeared after i changed the gearbox oil to synthetic and added Nulon G70 transmission additive. But after all that i still think its a Clutch fault and i will have mine changed when i save up enough dough. The synthetic gearbox oil will help to protect the gears better though so i would reccomend doing it and change it every year or more frequently if finances allow. Remember the gearbox has no fliter like the engine does so all loose metal chippings will be floating around freely in the gearbox. Not good.
Plus i find that when the car is jumping over bumps or when the wheels are spinning like crazy or when you bang the limiter, the shifting is smooth as silk to shift! WHY IS THAT??? Maybe the clutch got stuck with all the G-forces and when you suddenly hit a bump or bang the rev-limiter it all loosens up hence freeing the shifter??? Or maybe its the transmission mounts? Maybe, maybe, maybe...
Well Zee as I have said now in a couple of posts this morning my shift issues do now seem to be fixed with the new shifter cable, Redline Oil and TRD clutch. The box is now very sweet to use. If you ask me definately the clutch is a major issue with these problems!
-
Have had the new Shift cable done, put in the Redline Trasmission fluid (thanx Danthuyer) and put in the TRD clutch with a TOMS flywheel and all my gearbox issues have gone. It is silky smooth with no sticking or no not going into gear.
Before I was getting constant sticking and refusal to go into gear and a lot of grinding even going into reverse of a morning to back out of my garage.
Looking at the old clutch, the pressure plate was pretty much cactus after only 26,000km and most of it was pretty easy driving. This all is only enforcing my belief that the standard clutch has some real issues.
The gearbox now does really feel like one out of a German car... solid, smooth and direct.
-
Well all I can say after driving my Sportivo with the TOMS Lightweight flywheel & TRD Clutch is WOW.
The car is actually more driveable believe it or not. The car launches very easy and builds revs very fast. Revs don't really drop any more than usual under gear changes and the new clutch & cable are great, no sticking, no grinding just smooth.
The clutch itself takes up as soon as you move it slightly which does make for a great gearchange.
The flywheel has really smoothed out the engine. Under acceleration it is extremely smooth and builds speed very quickly. Even the engine note has changed. Under high revs it just purs. As you aproach the rev limit in 3rd instead of the engine sounding a little strained it is instead sounding silky smooth.
Throttle response is instant and when you put your foot down from pretty much any rev in any gear the car responds by pushing you into your seat.
Any neagatives, just one. The car sounds a lot different cranking over on startup, much like having a buz saw under the bonnet and people look at you funny. Once started though only positives.
This is a mod I would definately do again without hesitaion. The car sounds better, rev's out a lot better and is much more driveable. This has become my favorite mod so far :D
-
The price for the Exedy came from their display at the autosalon and they were not in the least interested in talking about discounts. They could not even answer questions without refering to catalogues so we walked away.
The relationship Paul/myself and Bruce have is both ways and more than just buying something from him. This meens sometimes he is able to extend an extra good deal for the both of us and in such a circumstance we keep that between us, otherwise we share. And there are a few members here who have benefited from this as we have from them!
I had no problem with your posts and concede you brought up very good points but at the same time were not personal in nature. Just sharing some valid information I am sure may save some guys, who do not have access to some deals I do, some money and that is a good thing. I agree with what you were saying that is why I purchased the TOMS flywheel over the TRD one as it is a good amount cheaper while being a superior unit.
My issue was with Captain Upsidedown as his post was very much in the form of an attack;
"mmmAHHAHAHHAHAAAHA!!
somehow i see that you guys have paid over $500 for your "TuRD" clutch for a bog stock Daiken Exedy item!!
Just for some bling factor which no one will ever see....."
Why he had to term it like that or what the problem he has is, I do not know and until I read that I thought this thread was a good discussion with valid points that would have applied if not for the price I payed.
Cheers rollamods, no harsh feelings directed your way at all. Was enjoying your input right up to the point of Captain Upsidedown.
-
ok, for those out there that dont fully understand... Exedy is the OEM for the TRD 31210-AE100 pressure plate, and you can save a lot of money by purchasing the "non-shiney" item.
People are free to spend their money on whatever label they want, it just pays to be educated in your purchase.
Can anyone here tell me the difference between the 31210-AE100 TRD pressure plate and the 700kg Exedy TC03T pressure plate apart from the colour of the pressed steel cover?
The pivot point is exactly the same (ie same clutch "weight"), the clamp pressure is exactly the same, the cover is the same, etc etc. The only difference is price.
http://toyota-trd.jp/en/strt/d_clutch.html
In Japan the retail price of the TRD cover is about 27000yen, and the online retail price for the Daikin/Exedy is between 20000 and 25000... Those are for the same part. Toyota has a massive markup on most spare parts and if you know the right people you can usually obtain up to a 60% discount off the genuine RRP. So it should be no suprise that a major clutch provider can sell the same clutch setup at Toyota's "cost" price. Bruce probably doesn't pay the Toyota cost price for his parts, so he wouldn't be making a fortune on his sales.
So in the case of the TRD clutch, you definately do not get what you pay for, unless you want the rice value of a "TRD Clutch" to add to your signature.
I get where your points are coming from, but you are just assuming what I paid for the TRD Clutch and the price you have assumed is wrong. Peekay & myself actually costed out the Exedy package and guess what it was $30 less than my quote for the TRD unit.
Oh my *** I paid $30.00 too much :o But as I & peekay deal through Bruce all the time if we have an issue with a part it is dealt with instantly no questions and the service he gives us is exceptional. Working up to 14-16hr days, time for me is at a premium so if $30.00 gets me service that takes care of everything from 1 phone call then I'll pay it gladly. It'll cost me more than that to spend 15 minutes away from work trying to get best prices from other places.
Captain Upsidedown I hope you had a good laugh. It would seem though the only times you pop up here in this forum is to take swipes at people. Is there a problem in your life that gives you a need to belittle others to give yourself a feeling of worth. Would you like to sit down and tell me about your many percieved inadequacies. Maybe I can help you overcome them and grow a little as a person.
But as your entire jibe was based on a wrong assumption you would seem to be the one who is left looking a little stupid. I guess now though you will come back even harder as here is another inadequacy you will feel a need to make up for :D
Oh and I posted the pictures because there are a couple of people here on the forum I regard as good friends and they were interested in seeing the parts before going in the car.
Cheers mate it was a pleasure as always
-
Chose the TRD clutch because after a lot of research this was the only clutch I could not find any negative feedback about. All other brands that I could search on there were always people who were sorry for choosing what they chose and would choose differently if they could do over.
Was not the case with the TRD unit. All who had done it would not hesitate using the same one again. Might be more expensive but I have complete confidence in it.
As clamping force goes I do not need more as the car is staying N/A. I want the car still to be perfectly driveable for myself & my wife. From what I have read the TRD clutch seems to be perfectly setup for the mods I am doing to the car. After all it was designed for the TRD modded 2zzg which is basically the same as what I am doing to mine. :D
For my mods I do not look at cost, I'll research the parts thoroughly and make the decision on what I find to be the best option for myself and my car. Once the decision is made I then look at the price and work out a saving plan to get me that part. I then save until I can buy it.
It is the same with the LSD I am now saving for. There are some at half the price (including the TRD unit) but the one I have researched as the best has no real competion as far as quality, performance and reliability goe's, so I just save for longer to get it. If it takes 6 months longer so be it, at least I have no doubts when it is finally installed as I know it's the best part for me. :D :D :D
-
Change the Oil. Looked at my oil after 1000km and it was not in great condition.
Tecnical report on the 2zz-GE Engine
in Corolla / Corolla Sportivo Club
Posted
Hi guys,
A few of you might like a read of this paper. Some good in-depth look at why things were done certain ways on the 2zzg. It makes very interesting reading.
2zz-GE engine devolpment
Cheers