frente69

In my 2005 you turn on the headlights and click the trip meter button until it shows a bunch of lines. Once that is displayed you hold down the trip meter button and the back light will start changing levels. Hold it until its at the level you want. Cheers

I got one from Autobarn. I believe that I got a generic toyota double din kit. I know that Hilux's from the similar year as my 2005 sportivo use the same cd player

Interested to know the price and specs. Some of those things have a pretty extensive list for the price. Does it have GPS, BT rear view camera etc? What software does it run? From the rear pic it looks like there is a fan in the top left. Wonder how hackable the software is :-) Would be pretty cool if you could install android etc on it....

Wear indicators on your brake pads? Mine did that. Check how thick the pad is.

I filled up with 91 once as I was low on petrol in the country and couldn't find premo anywhere. Ran like crap until I was able to track down octane booster. Also as a side note I have found the shell premo runs better in mine then vortex. Just my 2c

I have beaten other stivo's, stock non stivo rolla's from all years, a LOT of different kia's and lancers, excel's, a 1979 Fiat 131, a 1981 Honda Civic, Mazda 121, Holden Shuttle van, a Great wall ute as well as dudes on those pedal bikes with the lawn mower engines on them - they think they are the s***. I have a stock stivo with the slow 1-2 shift :-) My clutch will burn out soon and i can get a decent one.... Sorry - couldn't resist.

It happened to me once but in a Civic. A clever auto electrician pulled out the srs fuse while the car was running. The light stayed on because the computer thought there was a fault with the airbag. I ended up taking to the the honda dealer to get it reset. But if you haven't been playing with fuses then there may be an actual fault with it perhaps? Ether way I imagine you are in for a trip to Toyota.

Hi, I run 75watt rms through each of my stock stivo speakers using a Alpine kit. Sounds a lot louder and waaay less muddy(ie it sounds clearer) then then stock 6 stack toyota head unit. Before I got the subbie going I even managed to get my wife to concede that it sounded much better (she thinks car stereos are a waste of money as all you get out of it is doof doof) IMO too much power from the amp to the speakers won't damage them. I think you should ALWAYS make sure you at least match the rating of the speaker as under powering speakers(particularly subs) damage them unless you are really careful and know the limits of how loud you can safely go. Just for reference: I hooked up a 225rms rated sub to a 150rms amp and blew the sub within 6 months. I ran 50w rms through my stock rear speakers in my old Civic for about 6 years and it didn't kill them(and back then I would have thrashed the speakers). I was once given a crappy old 3x6" 5-15w rms rated speaker(from a sss pulsar) to blow up so I hooked it up to a 150w rms channel on my amp and cranked it. It sounded terrible due to distortion and I thought i smelt a faint burning smell but it didn't stop working. Keep in mind that I'm no audio expert. I am just recounting my personal experiences.

I have the rattle as described( rattle in 1st,2nd at low rpm, sounds worse with air con on, give it more boot to avoid the noise ) Just to clarify here am i looking to replace: Timing chain tensionor( is that what a belt tensioner is? ), Belt tensioner, something to do with the airconditioner, the "dampener", revised alternator pulley aka dampener, the bracket that holds the alternator on or drive belt tensioner? Thanks.