07 Yaris YRX

There is an increasing popularity in Ethanol blended fuel in our petrol stations. Well, at least in Sydney metro it is. I've got a 07 Yaris YRX. I haven't tried putting E10 in my tank yet. Not until I've researched more about it and see if there are any negative effects on our cars, especially the Yaris. I fuelled up with Synergy 2000 yesterday and I realised the E10 was 2 cents per litre cheaper. This might make buggerall difference to the petrol bill at the end of the day, but every dollar adds up. Afterall, people spend $30 on shopping to save about $2 on fuel with a shopping docket. I've been reading a little bit about Ethanol blended petrol, but I couldn't come up with a clear conclusion of whether it's cheaper to use in the long run. If you've used, or are using E10, I'd like to hear your opinion on this particular type of fuel.

I normally use Mobil Synergy 8000 cos there are a coupla Mobil's near where I live.

I know someone who owns a 04/05 Corolla Conquest and he says that it idles at around 2000rpm on a cold start so I think it could be normal for a corolla at least.

I've been thinking about putting one in but the total cost of the unit itself plus tuning has been the reason why I've not made a decision.

I did about 530km with 51.5L of petrol so that's about 620km full tank. I reckon that's pretty good considering that a Corolla Sportivo is a pretty powerful car. Although I wouldn't mind better fuel economy if anyone's got any idea of how that's achievable, since petrol prices are going through the roof.

I haven't actually tested the battery voltage on mine, but what I realise at night time is that once I use my power windows my headlights go a little bit dimmer.

Augment -> Bill's car pulled 112kw stock (with K&N filter or stock filter 111.7kw stock), and was the last of the pre-facelift models 2004. Good stuff dude, well done. Has it also improved fuel economy as well? I haven't really noticed an obvious improvement in fuel economy. I filled up the tank yesterday and the last tank I did about 530km with 51.5L of petrol, so that's about 9.7L/100km.

Believe it or not. My 03 Sportivo put out an extra 13.3kW on the dyno after I intalled my TRD CAI. I wouldn't think it'd make that much difference, but that's what the figures tell me. The first time my stock Sportivo went on the dyno was back in 2004 after the recall, in which it put out 100.1kW. After I intalled my CAI, I had the 2nd dyno just over a week ago and it gave a reading of 113.4kW. It's running leaner than it used to and it's putting out more power so I'm not complaining.

Since there are a coupla posts here about dealerships overfilling the sump, I'd like to tell u's a little bit about my year 10 work experience at a dealership. They used an oil gun which gave a digital reading of how much oil came out of the nozzle when they pulled the trigger. They would have a number in their heads of how much oil to put in a certain model, and they'd always put the same amount in assuming that was the right quantity for the car.

I've got DBA slotted front rotors on my Corolla Sportivo. The part number is: DBA 759SL and DBA 759SR For cross-drilled it's DBA 759X. But that's just for looks.

What does SAFC stand for? wat does it do? did u get it? wat was the price? yeah i started to have the same issue as you 03 Corolla Sportivo, in the mornings when i start her, she coughs/chokes, but i just let her get warmed up and is all good.... cheers mario SAFC is Super Air Flow Converter. It's s'pose to control the air/fuel ratio. I haven't got it yet, simply cos it costs a ridiculous amount of money. Probably at least $1000+ Australian dollars including tuning.

Hi mate, whats the price of a TRD CIA. I am from South Africa and theres no one that sells them here. Thanks I bought it for $495 Australian dollars. It's from TRD USA so you might wanna order from them. Greek

I change my oil every 6 months cos I only do abt 15000kms a yr. If you do a lof of kms, then I reckon every 10000 is good enough. When I get my Corolla ill let the Workshop do the normal log book service which I think is every 10K (otherwise the warranty will be void) but in between I will be doing my own little oil change. So my car will be serviced every 5K. I think the more you change your oil the better as the oil doesent get polluted with gunk and doesent loose any of its protection abilities thus protecting the engine even better. :) I don't trust warranty. Never took my car back to Toyota since I had my free 1000km check-up. I believe that there are millions of reasons that a dealership can avoid dealing with warranty issues. My dad went through that with his car. During the warranty period, you take the car back for a problem, they'll say it's normal. After the warranty is over, they'll tell you there's a problem because then you'll have to pay to get things fixed. Either way, it's alot cheaper to do your own oil changes. Labour is the most expensive thing in the automotive industry. I mean, total up the costs of oil and oil filter for each oil change, and compare that with what you pay at dealerships. Keep in mind that it's a 10 minute job at a garage where there are hoists and proper tools.

Im curious... With taking off and putting back the sump plug did you guys use that rattle gun/power wrench? I wanted to change my Oil (Old Camry) and I coulnt take the sump plug off! I even got a few mate's over and still couln't it was like it was glued on. We ended up sending it off to the garage and let them do it cuz they have the tools. I've always used a spanner and I've never had a problem, except for situations where the sump plug was rounded previously. First, you need a REAL spanner, not a toy one from a home tool kit. Get a good quality spanner. This is where size really matters. A good, long spanner means you won't hafta use as much energy trying to undo the bugger. What I always do is place the ring side of the spanner on the sump plug and hold it with one of your thumbs, and then hit the open ended side of the spanner anti-clockwise. I avoid leaning on the spanner when I try and undo it because if I slip I might round the plug and cause problems for later. If all else fails, get a socket and a breaker-bar to undo it. NEVER use air tools on sump plugs. If you strip it, you'll know all about it. Not worth the risk. They could've done it very tight off the factory. My oil filer certainly was.

I use Mobile 1 5W-50 for my car and I haven't had a problem. I was an apprentice motor mechanic for 2 years and I recommend you change the oil at operating temperature. Oil is best drained when it's hot. It'll drain alot quicker than if it's cold. Obviously, the sump plug would be hot but you'll get used to it after a while. The last thing you want though is to have hot oil pouring on your hand when you undo the sump plug. There's a trick to it but it's sorta hard to explain. You can sorta feel the oil coming out and then you hafta remove the plug quickly enough to let the oil run into the drain tin rather than your hand. You'll never get all the old oil out. I usually put the plug back in once it starts dripping. It'd be a good idea to replace the sump plug washer as well if it's not a copper or aluminium one.