Speedz

If you have time just put it up 12k and let them haggle down the price, yes 120k km is low mileage for it's vintage also need to consider the general wear and tear both inside and out.

I'm on the same boat as Baxter, going to flog my Aurion off cheap and keeping the Kluger. 

Thanks that will come in handy, 12 months on I still haven't gotten around to my Android HU install lol 

You will want to invest in a lift kit otherwise it might not fit 

Cross me fingers this won't happen to my Aurion or Kluger.

I've been doing synthetic oil change every 10k km without fail. 

On 4/9/2023 at 6:44 AM, AdilCh said:

Hi,

 Would it be possible for you to share the picture of the headunit here? I want to see how does it look like with that emergency switch..

Pictures on the provided link (teyes) are not that great.

 

Thanks

 

 

 

Busy in RL as usual, note the actual Android unit inside the box. I just got my Kluger purring like a kitten some weeks back and gave it an extended road trip the other day to confirm everything is working 100%.

Next step is really get this HU installed, most likely after the financial year when I have some breathing room.

13 hours ago, Jacaranda said:

I actually removed the front wheels and inner guards just to replace the parking bulbs with LEDs 😂

This is the way.

Control arm bushing?

On 3/19/2023 at 9:07 AM, Cait said:

I’ve found a great condition 2001 Toyota Landcruiser GXL Prado 4x4 V6 Petrol 4speed automatic and I’m trying to determine if it’s worth the buy, it’s low $20,000 with less than 85,000kms!

This is my first 4x4 a dream I’ve been saving for so I want to be careful as I am limited on it’s cost. 

Fuel wise what could I be looking at travelling around town during the week and highways on the weekend?

I travel 400-600kms a week on average.

Is it worth buying a petrol? 

I want this car to last me another 10years which will make it a 30year old car by then. 
 

What common faults do they have? 
 

What could it be worth, is the buyer asking too much? 

Crack dash are a very common issue with those, you can cover it with dashmats

Thirsty but like Tony suggested very bulletproof when service regularly, you might want to do a major service or at least get a experienced mechanic to do a pre-purchase inspection or whatever the car so you can start budgeting for replacement parts. At that age it's not the mileage but seals etc will deteriorate and need replacing.

Worth asking if the 4x4 had any accidents before etc to make sure you know what to look for eg. insurance repairs vs backyard 

You can't go wrong with those STEDIs 

You might need to turn the steering wheel right and squeeze your hands through the guards up for a easier reach the left headlight socket. 

How many kms have you clocked up so far?

I just reached 200k km and the waterpump and pulleys is on their way out. I was lucky with the oil hose and caught it in time while it leaked out of nowhere on the road.

And also did you replace the headlight units? Mine still OEM, and I really hate it but I haven't done any research on aftermarket headlight units.

I've replaced my fog lights with OEM LEDs from a Prado but thinking about replacing them with STEDIs just to see better on the road at night. 

I love the RE003, cheap and cheerful.

I'm so jealous how mint your Aurion is compared to mine.

190k km...

• Water pump is prone to go, mine did and I just did major major major service
• Alternator (replaced as a precaution since they are together with the water pump)
• Noisy bearings (pulleys next to the above 2 and was replaced at the same time)

Other ****es like gaskets and seals much depends how well the car was look after eg service intervals etc

I don't baby my Kluger, it's my family work horse and hopefully it's good to go for another 200,000 km.

On 2/7/2023 at 7:50 PM, Mark83 said:

Did you install this? How difficult was it?

Gave up about 3 hours later.

I had a Tassie trip planned and basically ran out of time and now with family commitments I won't have time to settle back down till after Easter to continue with the install, I need to build a little stand so the unit can sit on it while figuring out the wiring (zero instruction), I might just give it up altogether and get someone to install it.

If you want my advice, get some auto-electrician to supply and install the unit (either Teyes or not, doesn't matter). Where I am they all don't want to touch it as they are not familiar with the 'brand'.

Well my Kluger's control arm bushing is shagged, any suggestion on either OEM or Fulcrum control arm replacement? 

On 10/28/2022 at 1:26 PM, mayhewga said:

My 2013 Grande tailgate stopped working recently when I too parked on a sideways slope and it wouldn't close. I have had to resort to manual operation.

I tried many ideas suggested on various web sites and the problem became worse until it wouldn't open or close electrically.

Today I tried "assisting" the motor by pressing the button and manually lifting and closing the tailgate a few times, in an attempt to reset the mechanism which has sort of worked.

The tailgate will now at least open electrically as per normal, but when closing, it just starts to close then reverses as if it has detected an obstacle or thinks it has hit a limit switch.

It will only close with my helping the motor by pushing on the door, but won't close on its own.

I disconnected the lifting arm from the tailgate and the motor drives the arm up and down with no problem, so the motor and gears work, and the tailgate weight seems nicely counterbalanced by the gas struts. So in short:

1.The motor and gears work in both directions with no door connected, 2. the motor and gear mechanism happily lift the door when it is re-connected, 3. the motor and mechanism stall when trying to close the door.

Any thoughts on this?

 

Just to make sure you had the auto close on a flat ground?

On 9/25/2021 at 1:02 AM, Jailbird2122 said:

So, after all this long I figured what the issue is. It's to do with blower under the dash. Apparently, when you change the angle of the air blower, esp for hot air, the blower struggles to change the angle. That's what sound is from. Getting a new blower will cost about 300 to 400 bucks. My mechanic told me to wait till it stops working completely.

Oh is it? I had that noise too but didn't think too much of it. 

This is a decade old info lol but the Sportivo kits were just 3M stick on bits from factory onto OEM ATX bumper moulds.

The grills should fit and you only need to worry about if it's facelift grill. 

The Black Sportivo is a pre-facelift model you attached below. The 2010 is a post-facelift.

I don't recall anywhere the facelift grill fits the OG bumpers and headlight housing, you may need buy all 3 for OEM fitment. 

11 minutes ago, socks2807 said:

Okay yeah looking at that mine is 200% the facelift then. Of course the grilles look different, but do you think the basic shape has actually changed at all? Looks like it maybe has. I don't think even a 2009 sportivo grille would work actually, I may need to move up to a 2010 then.

Looking at the 2009 sportivo grille:

Vs the 2010:

The 2010 grille seems to come closer to the headlights the same way the 2009 facelift presara grille does. Maybe I'm stuck looking in that small age bracket before the 50s came out.

Can't help you with the subs.

But on grills below is the OG 2006

Below is the facelift 2009+

If your's is a facelift the headlights would have a 'fin' like accents on the side and the rear tail lights will be 'frog lights' vs OG's circular tail lights. 

Check your car manual? LOL

If I'm not mistaken all Persara comes with JBL upgraded system? The '8th' speaker are actually tweeters integrated as a 2 way on the parcel shelve. Unfortunately no idea where the subs are, you can find out maybe turn the subs on max and switch off every speakers in the car.

The ghost of DJKor lives on! lol

As for you other question yes facelift models was released in 2009 so naturally pre-facelift models were on the market as well, for a safer bet try look for 2010 models. 

32 minutes ago, socks2807 said:

Bumping, would like a final answer as to which grille from RStyle the FAQ is referring to here:

There are two Camry mesh grilles on the RStyle website.

There is the one for a 2007 Camry: https://rstyleracing.com/product/หน้ากระจัง-สำหรับรถ-camry-2007/

And one for a 2009 Camry: https://rstyleracing.com/product/หน้ากระจัง-สำหรับรถ-camry-2009-ไม/ 

The 2009 one in particular I notice actually has different products shown in the photos. The shape is actually totally different between the photos. Which is the one that people were putting on their Aurions 10 years ago? Which should fit a 2009 Aurion? Cheers

 

I'm pretty certain in some old buried threads here that someone mentioned the OG Aurion headlight and bumpers are different (fitting wise) from the face lift models from 2009 onwards. Therefore choose you grills wisely. 

Just now, CatG said:

Cheers Ashley,

Great to know that it could be something much more easily managed. I will have the camshaft OCV looked at first and go from there.  I only had an oil and filter change done about 6 weeks ago, so I’d like to think that wouldn’t be causing the problem, but who knows?!

Well age wise it's getting up there 😞

Sooooo I just bought myself a STEDI HB3 (High beam) $120 to replaced my Amazon Sinoparcel HB3 $40 for my Kluger 2011 (High beam reflector) and have been using Hikari 2021 Acme-X H11s - Low beam projector ($130 at the time), here is my 2 cents worth. 

• Brightness - Sinoparcel probably pull that number out of their ***** somewhere and Hikari is on high, eye test suggested they are about the same brightness side by side
  • STEDI HB3
    • 3,450Lm each globe (RAW)
    • 1,760Lm each globe (Actual)
  • Sinoparcel HB3
    • 5,000Lm each globe
  • Hikari 2021 Acme-X H11
    • 20,000Lm (LMAO) divide that by 2 and it's what 10,000lm per? LMAO
• Cutoff
  • STEDI has a more focused beam compare to Sinoparcel, in other words in a reflector housing expect more glare from Sinoparcel. It's OK if you out and about in the rural area (lets hope your LC200 actually leaves the bitumen lol) but yeah you wouldn't be driving with the high beams on urban roads either (this is even more relevant if your LC200 low beam are reflector type 
  • No comment on the Hikari as they sit in a low beam projector housing
• Color Temp - True to it's word STEDI's colour is warmer and probably 'warmer' than my Hikari 2021 Acme-X low beams's colour temp, Sinoparcel's are definitely cooler (blue-ish white side by side comparison)
  • STEDI - 5700k
  • Sinoparcel - 6000 - 6500k
  • Hiraki - 6000k
• Build Quality - This is where I think the you getting your money's worth or is it worth it?
  • STEDI - Being a passive cooling unit, it's METAL, it's QUALITY, it's BIG and it's HEAVY. You can definitely use it as a projectile and kill someone with it. Comes with a external canbus dongle which they provide some small zip ties and a 3M (the manual says) double sided tape
  • Sinoparcel - It comes with a fan, if you not a fan of a fan (no puns intended)... anyway it's about half the size of the STEDI unit, 1/3 of the weight and 1/3 of the price. You can literally buy 2 more spares, just saying. Build quality is excellent for a $40 unit but the main weakness will be the fan failing if not the plastic clips holding the fan to the back of the LEDs (main body is aluminum). Oh and you can hear the fan noise ONLY when you switch off the engine with the lights still on, I have a H11 set in my Aurion that's how I know.
  • Hikari Acme-X -  So for $130 bucks it's now $237 on Amazon, you can buy them cheaper via Amazon US. Look if I do this again, I wouldn't buy Hikari, their customer service is non-existence first of all. For the price the H11 adaptor and fan are plastic (fan are quieter vs Sinoparcel), I actually broke adaptor when I re-house the LED set in an attempt to improve the Aurion POS projector head unit and ended up buying another Hikari cheapest LED set and nick the adaptor off it. This wouldn't happen if I have bought the STEDI (even the adaptor is metal) nevermind the fact it probably won't fit anyway to the Aurion extra tight (that's what he said) left side headlight unit. 

End of the way you might or might not be surprised all 3 units the LED chips are made from China anyway, look around on other forums and you will find STEDI led chips are imported from China if not the entire unit, no prize for Sinoparcel ('Sino' is a dead give away), and Hikari listed Shilan as their manufacturer on their Amazon page.

Age old advice will be buyer beware and apply some common sense. 

On 7/19/2021 at 10:56 AM, Metal_Head said:

After being told 2 months ago there's no stock left to replace the dash in the last of the remaining 40series I received a very pleasant call today 😁

Toyota will manufacture a new dash using materials from "a later series aurion", so I'm booked in for the end of the month 🎉🎉🎉

I do have a question though, how much is actually removed and replaced? I ask because I hav a few random wires scattered around at the bottom, underneath the dash for footwell lights/dash cam etc etc, so if they have to be removed then I'd rather do these myself in preparation

Supposedly about $1k labour alone when I was in the FB group that organised the dash replacement, from memory they were threatening class action or something. Not sure if the Prado owners got theirs replaced. I know other manufacturers also has similar issues such as Honda Accorda and Mazda (forgot which series).

Mine was replaced free as expected the dash colour is slightly off but who cares right, as long it doesn't melt.