Speedz

If you have time just put it up 12k and let them haggle down the price, yes 120k km is low mileage for it's vintage also need to consider the general wear and tear both inside and out. I'm on the same boat as Baxter, going to flog my Aurion off cheap and keeping the Kluger.

Thanks that will come in handy, 12 months on I still haven't gotten around to my Android HU install lol

You will want to invest in a lift kit otherwise it might not fit

Cross me fingers this won't happen to my Aurion or Kluger. I've been doing synthetic oil change every 10k km without fail.

Busy in RL as usual, note the actual Android unit inside the box. I just got my Kluger purring like a kitten some weeks back and gave it an extended road trip the other day to confirm everything is working 100%. Next step is really get this HU installed, most likely after the financial year when I have some breathing room.

This is the way.

Control arm bushing?

Crack dash are a very common issue with those, you can cover it with dashmats Thirsty but like Tony suggested very bulletproof when service regularly, you might want to do a major service or at least get a experienced mechanic to do a pre-purchase inspection or whatever the car so you can start budgeting for replacement parts. At that age it's not the mileage but seals etc will deteriorate and need replacing. Worth asking if the 4x4 had any accidents before etc to make sure you know what to look for eg. insurance repairs vs backyard

You can't go wrong with those STEDIs You might need to turn the steering wheel right and squeeze your hands through the guards up for a easier reach the left headlight socket.

How many kms have you clocked up so far? I just reached 200k km and the waterpump and pulleys is on their way out. I was lucky with the oil hose and caught it in time while it leaked out of nowhere on the road. And also did you replace the headlight units? Mine still OEM, and I really hate it but I haven't done any research on aftermarket headlight units. I've replaced my fog lights with OEM LEDs from a Prado but thinking about replacing them with STEDIs just to see better on the road at night.

I love the RE003, cheap and cheerful.

I'm so jealous how mint your Aurion is compared to mine.

190k km... Water pump is prone to go, mine did and I just did major major major service Alternator (replaced as a precaution since they are together with the water pump) Noisy bearings (pulleys next to the above 2 and was replaced at the same time) Other ****es like gaskets and seals much depends how well the car was look after eg service intervals etc I don't baby my Kluger, it's my family work horse and hopefully it's good to go for another 200,000 km.

Gave up about 3 hours later. I had a Tassie trip planned and basically ran out of time and now with family commitments I won't have time to settle back down till after Easter to continue with the install, I need to build a little stand so the unit can sit on it while figuring out the wiring (zero instruction), I might just give it up altogether and get someone to install it. If you want my advice, get some auto-electrician to supply and install the unit (either Teyes or not, doesn't matter). Where I am they all don't want to touch it as they are not familiar with the 'brand'.

Well my Kluger's control arm bushing is shagged, any suggestion on either OEM or Fulcrum control arm replacement?

Just to make sure you had the auto close on a flat ground?

Oh is it? I had that noise too but didn't think too much of it.

This is a decade old info lol but the Sportivo kits were just 3M stick on bits from factory onto OEM ATX bumper moulds. The grills should fit and you only need to worry about if it's facelift grill.

The Black Sportivo is a pre-facelift model you attached below. The 2010 is a post-facelift. I don't recall anywhere the facelift grill fits the OG bumpers and headlight housing, you may need buy all 3 for OEM fitment.

Can't help you with the subs. But on grills below is the OG 2006 Below is the facelift 2009+ If your's is a facelift the headlights would have a 'fin' like accents on the side and the rear tail lights will be 'frog lights' vs OG's circular tail lights.

Check your car manual? LOL If I'm not mistaken all Persara comes with JBL upgraded system? The '8th' speaker are actually tweeters integrated as a 2 way on the parcel shelve. Unfortunately no idea where the subs are, you can find out maybe turn the subs on max and switch off every speakers in the car. The ghost of DJKor lives on! lol As for you other question yes facelift models was released in 2009 so naturally pre-facelift models were on the market as well, for a safer bet try look for 2010 models.

I'm pretty certain in some old buried threads here that someone mentioned the OG Aurion headlight and bumpers are different (fitting wise) from the face lift models from 2009 onwards. Therefore choose you grills wisely.

Well age wise it's getting up there 😞

Sooooo I just bought myself a STEDI HB3 (High beam) $120 to replaced my Amazon Sinoparcel HB3 $40 for my Kluger 2011 (High beam reflector) and have been using Hikari 2021 Acme-X H11s - Low beam projector ($130 at the time), here is my 2 cents worth. Brightness - Sinoparcel probably pull that number out of their ***** somewhere and Hikari is on high, eye test suggested they are about the same brightness side by side STEDI HB3 3,450Lm each globe (RAW) 1,760Lm each globe (Actual) Sinoparcel HB3 5,000Lm each globe Hikari 2021 Acme-X H11 20,000Lm (LMAO) divide that by 2 and it's what 10,000lm per? LMAO Cutoff STEDI has a more focused beam compare to Sinoparcel, in other words in a reflector housing expect more glare from Sinoparcel. It's OK if you out and about in the rural area (lets hope your LC200 actually leaves the bitumen lol) but yeah you wouldn't be driving with the high beams on urban roads either (this is even more relevant if your LC200 low beam are reflector type No comment on the Hikari as they sit in a low beam projector housing Color Temp - True to it's word STEDI's colour is warmer and probably 'warmer' than my Hikari 2021 Acme-X low beams's colour temp, Sinoparcel's are definitely cooler (blue-ish white side by side comparison) STEDI - 5700k Sinoparcel - 6000 - 6500k Hiraki - 6000k Build Quality - This is where I think the you getting your money's worth or is it worth it? STEDI - Being a passive cooling unit, it's METAL, it's QUALITY, it's BIG and it's HEAVY. You can definitely use it as a projectile and kill someone with it. Comes with a external canbus dongle which they provide some small zip ties and a 3M (the manual says) double sided tape Sinoparcel - It comes with a fan, if you not a fan of a fan (no puns intended)... anyway it's about half the size of the STEDI unit, 1/3 of the weight and 1/3 of the price. You can literally buy 2 more spares, just saying. Build quality is excellent for a $40 unit but the main weakness will be the fan failing if not the plastic clips holding the fan to the back of the LEDs (main body is aluminum). Oh and you can hear the fan noise ONLY when you switch off the engine with the lights still on, I have a H11 set in my Aurion that's how I know. Hikari Acme-X - So for $130 bucks it's now $237 on Amazon, you can buy them cheaper via Amazon US. Look if I do this again, I wouldn't buy Hikari, their customer service is non-existence first of all. For the price the H11 adaptor and fan are plastic (fan are quieter vs Sinoparcel), I actually broke adaptor when I re-house the LED set in an attempt to improve the Aurion POS projector head unit and ended up buying another Hikari cheapest LED set and nick the adaptor off it. This wouldn't happen if I have bought the STEDI (even the adaptor is metal) nevermind the fact it probably won't fit anyway to the Aurion extra tight (that's what he said) left side headlight unit. End of the way you might or might not be surprised all 3 units the LED chips are made from China anyway, look around on other forums and you will find STEDI led chips are imported from China if not the entire unit, no prize for Sinoparcel ('Sino' is a dead give away), and Hikari listed Shilan as their manufacturer on their Amazon page. Age old advice will be buyer beware and apply some common sense.

Supposedly about $1k labour alone when I was in the FB group that organised the dash replacement, from memory they were threatening class action or something. Not sure if the Prado owners got theirs replaced. I know other manufacturers also has similar issues such as Honda Accorda and Mazda (forgot which series). Mine was replaced free as expected the dash colour is slightly off but who cares right, as long it doesn't melt.