Zerko

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About Zerko

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Aurion SX6
  • Toyota Year
    2007
  • Location
    New South Wales

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    Jack
  1. Thanks guys. I'm glad it was minor. I really should have checked the dog bone first. Nothing wasted really. Now I know how to do something else. Yeah I find I watch a lot more YouTube, too. Funnily enough, people fixing stuff. I like the car guys that rebuild wrecks like Goonzquad and Vtuned. As for TV eps - West World, Ozark, Billions, Altered Carbon.
  2. So... I went to pull out the lower engine mounts, but when I went to undo the top dogbone, one of the bolts wasn't done up real tight. I thought, that wouldn't have helped. Anyway, I was already half way through. Up on jack stands, wheels were off, underbody tray was off, so I decided to pull out the lower right mount anyway to inspect it. The clunk was coming from the RHS and you could bring it on with throttle on and off. I hadn't bought mounts yet, so I thought I'd better make sure it was that. The mount was fine. Not split. Maybe not quite as stiff as new, but couldn't see anything wrong with it. It has rubber that the top, not sure if the bottom is fluid filled. Couldn't tell by shaking it. Wasn't leaking at all. Didn't pull out the centre or left, but undid the bolts to get the right one out. Put it all back together (with everything tight - didn't bother getting the torque wrench out), went for a test drive and all is good. No clunk. Wasted a couple of hours that would have been spent on watching TV series anyway.
  3. So I just had a look to see if the lower front mount is ACM and it is. It has the vacuum and electrical coming off it. I don't believe this one fails in terms of rubber perishing, but may fail by split vacuum lines or electrical fault or possibly the diaphragm in it. The two other mounts do not have vacuum lines going to them so I don't think they are ACM nor have fluid in them. We'll see when I pull them out in the next few days.
  4. 2007 SX6. I've got a slight knock and I've sussed it out to be engine mounts. Putting the car in Drive and giving it a slight rev whilst foot is on brake can replicate the noise. Last service, I noticed the top stay (dogbone) was split, so I just replaced that, but I'm sure the other mounts are also shot now. Has anyone done mounts before? Left and right look easy enough. Is the front one ACM (Active Control Mount) with the fluid dampening? Do these actually fail like rubber mounts or more likely the hoses or electronics failing?
  5. First thing to do, would be to take it to a reputable wheel alignment joint to check if it's within spec. Then, depending on the results, get the castor correction kit to suit. Are your tyres wearing evenly?
  6. Does anyone know where to get a towbar that doesn't come out of the middle of the rear bar? i.e. one that doesn't require a dirty big hole to be cut into the bumper. I saw one today on an SX6, but felt a bit funny about screaming out the window asking, "where did ya get ya towbar?" It was low enough to be below the grey rear apron, so if there was any cutting needed, it would be minimal. The connector was also neatly mounted just under the apron. I'm just not a fan of the Toyota towbars that come out of the middle of the bumper.
  7. I've also been looking for a towbar off a wreck after a dealer quoted $925 fitted. No luck yet. Is it possible for you to measure up the hole location from another car? or ask one of the guys on here to measure for you. Am I correct in saying it's only a square hole for the tongue to pass through? On an AT-X with aftermarket bar only a small notch (2cm high) has to be taken out of the bottom of the bumper, but on the SX6s it's right in the middle and looks atrocious. I'd love to be able to modify the tow bar so it comes up from under the bumper with no cutting. Let us know how hard it was/is to fit.
  8. Zerko

    SPAM Thread

    No. Can't believe I read this thread.
  9. I automatically thought pull-left issue. ...but, yeah, comprehensible sentences would be nice.
  10. Yeah, I think DJKOR's technique for parking works. Just noticed the park brake does allow the car to roll a bit after engaging (only had the car about 3 weeks and it's the wifey's).
  11. When in Park, the transmission engages a pin (or something like that) which holds the gears stationary, effectively locking the drive wheels. If you are on an incline and the weight of the car is on the "pin" there will be more friction on the pin as it disengages. Clunk. I think the best procedure to follow is: To Park stop engage park/foot brake Shift to Park turn off To go turn on shift to drive/rev disengage park/foot brake go Unless your car is brokened or I've misread your post.
  12. Give Hillcrest Fulcrum a call. They can probably tell you who to go to in Perth. Did the same for Sydney. FYI, Wholesale Suspension in Sydney (which has already been mentioned in this thread). More FYI. Darren from Fulcrum said the Superpro kit would replace standard bushes on both sides. Left side would move the control arm forward, right side would move the control arm back, improving set back (definition - set back) He also said, factory spec w/a may not be the best setting. They have revised w/a specs to suit particular cars derived from testing. They do sell the castor kits to Toyota, so obviously Toyota uses them to correct the problem, but he couldn't say which dealers as they must get purchased by head office (a single account).
  13. It's got to be a p1sstake/joke/spam thread. He's posted the exact same thing in Intros. dumb...
  14. Yeah, used Dr. Detail before, too. http://www.drdetail.com.au/ Not cheap, but he spent 7 hours on my Subi to get rid of swirl on black. Uses only top shelf products.