Nunga_08

Did you get some sort of statutory warranty with the amp? That might be why the original owner sold it. There is every possibility it's fu*ked if you insist it's wired correctly. What sort of cable is running from the battery? It's only a tiny sub (compared to what else is available), so the current draw can't be that great surely. 4 or 8 guage would be ideal. Have you tried running the amp in a mate's car? Or, running a different amp in yours?

Is the amp only running the sub? I had a problem where my amp (running my splits and rear stage) would go into protection mode at loud volumes. After replacing the battery, checking the cables, fuses, distribution block, we thought it was the amp. So we got another example of the amp and set that up and the problem still occured. It turned out that at a certain frequency going through the splits (1000 or something, it was only picked up on an impedancemeter), the amp would go haywire and fall into CUR current protection mode (it's an Alpine, and they seem to have a low protection threshold). Running the splits actively from the amp (and putting the rear stage onto the deck) solved the problem. So, in summary, don't write off your wiring. It's good to eliminate it as a problem but it may not necassarily be the problem. It may still be amp-related.

3-way coaxials are a waste of money; like Suprathai said, it's a marketing gimmick. My brother has 3x 12" Punch H2's (I think???) and they've been hammered hard every day for three years; no problems. They've had lots of power going through them aswell, so I'd recommend their subs to anyone. I'd look elsewhere for component speakers. And lastly, save up and buy a pair of 2-way or 3-way splits; money much better spent.

^^

May I suggest the IDQ10 or IDQ12 subs; they're around $300 or $400, and pack a massive punch. They only require a box of volume 19L or so, so not a massive amount of space is lost. Image Dynamics stuff is amazing. JL Audio make very good subs, too. But ultimately it depends on your budget; Rainbow, Dynaudio, Diamond, Boston, ID are the prestige brands in sound. Orion also make some cracking good subs and amps; Autobarn has ben sotcking some of their stuff. I guess you could throw Alpine and JL in there too but they're a rung below the first four in my opinion.

Thank G*d, someone else who knows about these guys. Almost bought a set of Diamond Splits from them but ended up with the Rainbows. Edit: Excuse me? Blasphemy got censored? Flipping heck.

2x 12" Type R's @ 2ohm with the MRD-1005 amp, 18mm fully sealed common enclosure. It's not not loud. I'm surprised you're not happy with what you've got at the moment. A mate has 2x Type S's in his Civic and it's certainly not quiet (running off an MRD-605 I think). An upgrade to a Type R 12" with the MRD-605 would provide a lot of bang for sure, but there's heaps of other stuff out there, too. You just need to do your research. The thing is, if you're only after more noise, you'll need more power, so you'll need a new amp. Sure, you can port your current box and get some SPL gains there, but the quality of your bass will be crap (unless your ported box is professionally and painstakingly designed and made). Sealed boxes mean tight and punchy bass, and I'd rather that, and sacrifice outright SPL any day.

Dynamat is awesome. Don't buy it from an audio shop unless they have a sale; the mark up is ridiculous. I got a box of 20 square feet (5 sheets of 4sq ft) for $170 at a sale, and a second box a couple of months ago off eBay for $165. Shops normally sell it for $270+. Ridiculous.

If you're certain the speaker has given up the ghost, I'd try to get it replaced under warranty if the car's only a year old. If it isn't dead, then I'd take off the door card and check to see everything is tight and not loose. You might as well go about sound deadening the doors if the cards are off. Personally I'd go for Dynamat; it's the best in the business for good reason. However I have used Sound-Off and that is also very good and much cheaper. The sheets of either are easy to use. If you decide you need new speakers, I honestly wouldn't spend $200 on some 2 or 3-ways. Waste of money. But if you don't wantto go to the effort of installing atweeter somewhere you might as well get the Response 6" 2-ways from Jaycar; awesome value at $120. Splits are a much more desirable option, though. Go to Jaycar and buy some Response 6.5" Kevlar cone splits; the best $150 you'll ever spend on a stock stereo (apart from sound deadening). They sound as good and even better than splits worth $200-$300. I had to spend $900 to get better sounding speakers than them, the Response speakers truly are that good.

That would look good on a black Camry, but I'd have to see it on other coloured cars to comment otherwise.

/wants the wheels Those rims are so very very hot.

I had Maxxis rubber on my TX3, they performed quite well. wheels magazine has tested Maxxis rubber once or twice and they always finished in the top 3 with a few 1st placings in some tests. I can find my back issues and tell you what type they were and the competition if you're desperate to know. Value for money they're one of the best brands on the market. They'll sh*t on Nankang etc.

Rainbow. That is all.

I hate the wood. The ZR6's interior is very very nice, though. Does it have a pushbutton handbrake?

Oxymoron? What? Cars can be hi-tech, V8 and RWD. Look at BMW and Mercedes Benz. They seem to fair alright. Ugly: That's a purely subjective opinion. I think they look much better than a Camry, given the lack of front/rear overhangs and massive rear flanks. The front headlight treatment is a bit derivative, otherwise I think it looks fine. But that's obviously upto the individual, so hardly a point of argument. Thirsty: Performance doesn't come cheap, you know. The sporty Aurion model will be thirsty, too. Heavy: Yesthe Commodore is 200kg heavier. Safety, rigidity, handling, they all come at the expense of added weight. The Commodore is a bigger car than the Camry, so by rights is going to be heavier, too. I'm yet to see ANCAP crash ratings for either car, but I won't be surprised ifthe Commodore is the safer of the two. Boot: Commodore Boot is 496L. Camry Boot is 535L. That's about 1 overnight bag. It's not insignificant, but it's hardly small. Start listing the cars that could "kill" the Commodore. I'm interested to hear your opinion.

Quoted for emphasis. Fair enough if you already had them in there and did a lot of work to put them in, or you started your system with 6x9's etc, but if you already have sub/s, there is no point in having 6x9" speakers. That's the point I was making more than anything else. There is nothing inherently wrong with 6x9's, but I think there's a lot more right with more conventional coaxial speakers.

IS250 Prestige 6sp manual is $54 large + on roads, Sports Luxury auto is $78 large + on roads. The IS350 will be out of reach for most people, guaranteed, and if the reviews on the IS and GS are anything to go by, it's still not a fantastic drive. But, it seems we've digressed. By all accounts the new Camry is a good car; its biggest fault being a lack of power. But, an engine with a compression of 9.6 is just begging to be turbocharged, in spite of the fact it's undersquare with a 96mm stroke (and thus 88.5mm bore). But look, in all seriousness, you're not buying a Camry to win drags or do circuit work; you're buying a Camry to comute to and from work, and take the kids to school. I know there are people that do this and still enjoy taking the long way through the mountains home, but they should probably look for something like an N/A XR6 or spend a bit more and get an SS.

I'm going to make the pretty fair call that any kind of performance-oriented Aurion (i.e a version with 240kw or so) will go for around the 45 grand mark, probably more. For that money, you can get a brilliantly engineered, RWD V8 with 270kw, and 530Nm. This car can also do 13.5's down the quarter, and 0-100 in almost 5 flat. Fuel economy is excusable for such silly straight line performance, but even 14.5/100km isn't too bad in the grand scheme of things. A hard pedaled supercharged Aurion (or whatever donk the sporty one will have) will be just as thirsty, if not thirstier. And there is no way an Aurion will get close to matching the sprint times; FWD will always have limitations going in a straight line, and even more going around corners. And before you all start huffing and puffing, screaming blue murder, and telling me Commodores are pieces of sh*t, sit in a new VE. Holy sh*t, the interior quality is astounding, if only because of the improvement over the VT-VZ cars, let alone the competition today. I'll admit it's only been out for a month and we're yet to see any recalls (which will almost inevitably happen), but the same will go for the Aurion when it's released.

1. Kicker are not fantastic. At anything. Good, but not great. Proof of that is their persistence to continue with square subs; though good in theory, the idea is flawed, and will remain flawed. Make a cylinder out of paper and a a rectangular prism out of paper, and tell me which will hold the most weight, then work it out. Kicker are still to try this. Anyway, I digress. Brands to go for are the ones SQ guys use; Rainbow, Morel, Dynaudio, Diamond, Boston etc etc. Expensive, but they're the absolute best you can get. Brands like Pioneer, JVC, Panasonic et al (I say this as the former owner of a JVC deck and current owner of a Pioneer deck), while not woeful, aren't ideal because the company has other interests outside of car audio. Their focus isn't in the car audio business. 2. Who brought up 6x9's? I mean, seriously. Why have 6x9's if you have a subwoofer? If you want a system on a budget then by all means go for it. But if you've lashed out on a sub/amp package why waste further money? To me, it makes no sense. I stand by my claim of 6x9's being a poor man's subwoofer; the extra cone area obviously delivers a bit more thump than a regular 5" or 6" woofer, but at the massive cost of sound clarity. Continuing from this, why would you sacrifice said clarity/quality when you get enough bass from a subwoofer? Just because there's a 6" by 9" hole in a parcel shelf, doesn't mean it has to be filled. I'd rather a set of 5" 2-ways to fill the rear stage. JJCRU23R, do yourself a big favour and save up $500 or so for the front stage; talk to some guys at www.fhrxstudios.com in SY and see what they have in stock. There are other shops I know in BN and ML if you're in a non-SY location. Edit: spelling errors. :(

I can't remember if WOW Sight and SOund are in ML or not, but I believe they deal with Infinity. Before JB Hi-FI moved across the road from Highpoint in Maribyrnong, the Electrical shop in there dealt with Infinity as well, but that was about 6 months ago...

Didn't say that I beat him did I???Nor did I say that he spanked me badly??? No, very true, but I felt it was implied. I can move on. Turbo cars take less $$$ than a N/A car to make big gains. ****, no sh*t, Sherlock. Which begs to ask the same stupid question; why waste the money on a Sportivo if you're after straight-out power? Again, this is what KaZe-StiVo is after. And, for the third time, I've said you're better off with a forced-induction car. Get over it. Or as you said, "wake up". Does it need saying once more? As for microtec.... mate you just blew any credibility you may have had with that comment. Microtec is rubbish <_< I have friends who have great success running Microtec ECU's on their BPT/BPD Mazda motors (261HP with an LT8, for example), so I'm sure you can appreciate the tuning that's gone into such a highly modified motor. Like you said, horses for courses. I readily admit there's a lot of other stuff on the market; Microtec sprang to mind before the others, but I can list off Autronic, Haltech, MoTeC (all three much more expensive). My point is a fully programmable aftermarket computer is better than a piggyback chip. And since I have no experience with any of them I'll pass no judgement between brands. Can you say you've had experience with Microtec or their competition to justify your claim they are "rubbish"? And what would you know about credibility anyway? Wow, you supposedly ran an XR6T "close". I've little doubt your 'Rolla is quick, but if you'd raced on a dragstrip I might take your claims a bit more seriously. I ran an F355 really close last week in my wagon.

Not having a big go at you mate, yeah it's your car. But if you can easily remove the gear I see no problems. The move of a smart man. Number plate's can have rattling stopped with the same adhesive foam, too (first mod I did). I can't stand rocking up next to (almost always) VL's with crappy subs cranked and the boot rattling to the high heavens. *** it sh*ts me.

I'm going to assume that your Sportivo is running 14's or so (edit: hot car by the way, but in your garage it says you hope to run 14's? For my curiosity has it been on a strip yet?). Spend the money you've spent on it (about $1500 going from your garage, plus $350 for the uprated rubber) on an S15 (or an XR6T) and I'll be dumbfounded if they're slower. Another few grand on either should see you running flat 13's if they aren't already, possibly 12's. Sure it's not a granny hatch, but it's ultimately faster, and what KaZe-StiVo is after. A piggy back computer is a waste of money; $500+ for a paltry 10kw gain? And I'm not surprised Powerchip haven't considered the 2ZZ; it's already a massively high-strung motor. I know it's a Toyota donk, but how much further can you take it beyond economical sense? (I realise a lot here have, but it's not without risk). You might as well get a Microtec or something and have the ability to tune everything with regard to the fuel you're using, how you're driving it, etc etc.

What if you want to use your boot for say, oh I don't know, storing stuff? How do you do that with an amplifier occupying the last available space to lay something flat? It's bad enough half the boot is taken up by the box (but that's understandable as it's only a hatch and not a big wagon). Sure it looks alright, but it's pretty impractical. If you're worried about wires in the hatch rattling, take the plastic panel off and wrap the wires and connections in foam. I got some foam that had an adhesaive backing and cut it up into little strips. I didn't completely cover the wires, just in small sections to ensure there was no contact with metal (or plastic). Worked a treat.

Lol, great idea. Modify your car now, sell it next year. Brilliant. Just lump it for 12 months before you buy something with boost. Corolla Sportivos are a capable car, but if you're that unhappy with it why did you buy it? It's crazy. For the money you spend on a Sportivo, I'd rather a 2yr old S15; RWD and torque. Hell, a BA XR6 Turbo even comes in under $35 grand these days.