Reliable

Installed Camcon CC-101 today now for some tuning.

This has got to be the most incredible build on this site and many others for that matter. Well done!!!

I'm going to keep watching this thread

$305 NZD delivered to my door. I figured it was a good deal?

I know a PFC is better but its also a lot more to buy, tune and it has it's issues. I've been there and done that sort of thing with my old STi

This time I'm just looking for small simple mods I can do myself, and in the case of the Camcon with a tiny bit of dyno time.

Ok not very popular in Australia. Yeah going to message matt soon.

I've found a few settings online even the Power enterprise site has base settings for the JDM 2ZZ, probably best to leave it off tho until I get to the dyno.

Cheers guys,

Yeah I've got that excel document but I seen so many different pinouts for different years and models I don't know what one to use haha.

Thats a good idea to use the Japanese apexi site will try that!

Yip I'm hoping to install a camcon :)

Ok I have found this

http://www.diymytoyota.com/corolla/camcon-installation-to-euro-corollas/

it is for euro corollas but I'm hopeful It will also apply to JDM Corolla's.

Hi guys,

I need to locate the following pins on a 2005 jdm ecu for a 2zz.

Ignition/power (this one should not be hard)

Rpm signal +

Rpm signal -

Vvti signal

A/F Signal

Hoping someone has a pinout diagram or a way of identifing them, I have found various diagrams on the web all different tho :(

Cheers

Camcon is on it's way, anyone got tuning tips? base settings?

Can only get one if it was a personal import from Japan. They are not allowed in unless they have been owned for a year overseas by the person importing it while they were living there. I have seen one in the flesh though so just keep looking.

Thats no issue, I'm in New Zealand and they are everywhere here, loved by girls mostly haha.

didn't realize you guys didn't really have them.

Hi Guys,

A family member of mine is looking to buy a toyota altezza, wondering if you can point out some things we should be looking for or trying to avoid.

Thanks

Hey super keen on the LCA energy suspnsion bushings. About to send you a PM about it. Cheers.

Its not very loud at all. No raspiness throughout the rev range. Video soon.

Cheers your the man

Pics of the install.

Thanks for the pictures Kevman77,

How loud is it? any chance of a video?

Did any of the higher spec JDM versions come with ride height levelling?

Not that I can find, the mystery goes on....

DIY LED footwell lights installed

I used some RGB LED strip lighting and controller I was given keeping the cost to a minimum. I would not have done this modification otherwise, as I'm more into the performance modifications.

The LED controller features:

1. Brightness control

2. On and off buttons

3. White + 15 colors color

4. IR remote

5. 10Amp load capacity

6. Strobe etc... and other things I don't need or want

Anyway to power the LED's I'm getting power from two places

1. The door light

2. The dome light on the ceiling

This way the LED's go when the door is opened or car is unlocked and fades off when locked etc... And also goes when the dome light is turned on, to stositionop the dome light from turning on when in the off p and the door light circuit is powered up I installed a diode inline with the power source from the dome light to control the flow of electricity, allowing current to only flow away from the dome light.

All up I had to by a meter of Tile Mate aluminium strip from Bunnings for $3 to mount the strip lighting on and a 3amp diode from Jaycar for $0.36.

Will upload pictures soon waiting for dark to see how it looks.... Ok couldn't wait

YouTube video below going through bunch of the colors.

http://www.youtube.c...bed/R2YRj3_PEAA

Edit: i also installed a 16v 4700 micro farad capacitor here so smooth out the dimming as the cars dimming is rather stepped, also created a softer start, just made it nicer.

Well after some research it appears to be a height control sensor.

http://www.toyodiy.c...QF_8401.15.html

Thank you so much, such a good resource

so it is a:

89407 SENSOR SUB-ASSY, HEIGHT CONTROL, REAR RH

So I guess now it could be for two possible things:

- headlight leveling

or

- Brake Bias / electronic brake force distribution (if so it may be very important to correct it the nearly 2" the car has been lowered in the rear)

What do you guys think?

cheers for all the great work and help so far.

some cars also have a similar sensor for brake bias for the abs to know how much weight is in the rear, and also some vehicles have a ride sensor similar for pushbutton suspension(ie sport or comfort) a lot of older mazdas had this....

Thanks Dan for the helpful comment

ABS and brake distribution is happening at the limit of traction so yes I think it needs to be a finly tuned system,

What if the car though there was more weight in the back and applied the rear breaks harder and caused a spin mid corner? Infact I think the back end of these cars lets go pretty easy for a FWD.

what does everyone else think?

That looks a lot like a Load Sensing Valve, they are commonly used in utes and light to heavy trucks to increase braking to the rear wheels when there is additional load in the rear. However, when there is no load, the braking force is not required to be as strong so the valve reduces the braking pressure to the rears and prevent spinning. Due to the car being lowered and the axle being closer to the chassis, the valve thinks there is a greater load and would be applying more pressure.

I would suggest you have it professionally adjusted as they are often very sensitive and if you mess it up it could have serious consequences.

Sometime it feels like the car breaks too hard on the rear, I can think of two instances where ive been fooling around and touched the breaks mid turn and had the back let go been fine controling it tho, just makes me wonder.

This makes me think even lowering springs with a difrent spring rate would also throw out the calibration hmmmm

ABS and brake distribution is happening at the limit of traction so yes I think it needs to be a finly tuned system,

What if the car though there was more weight in the back and applied the rear breaks harder and caused a spin mid corner? Infact I think the back end of these cars lets go pretty easy for a FWD.

what does everyone else think?

I wonder if I should adjust this then. As the car has been lowered.

Guess I would have to confirm for sure.

Thanks for all your responses

Looks like the injen rd2082p is the way to go?? Hopefully it's not too hard to fit?!!

Will a piggy back ECU to control fuel and air do much to te sportivo or is it a waste??

Yip the rd2082 is the right one I have it on my 2005 facelift corolla, perfect fit easy to install.

looks light your headlight adjustment, it adjusts your headlight beam levels, so when there is weight in the rear your headlights will aim down instead of it aiming up

Now that would be cool, but I dont see how that would work?

Sorry thats just a picture off the internet, but my corolla has the exact same thing.

Kenshin X is right I have a JDM corolla in NZ

Just curious,

Does anyone know what this switch or sensor on the rear axle is for? (in red)

Cheers,

correct part number for the injen for the corolla sportivo/matrix XRS is RD2075 for prefacelift and i think RD2076 for the facelift. the difference between the two is that the RD2075 is a single piece pipe and the RD2076 is the 2 seperate pipe i think to accomodate the size of the foggy.

i have fitted a RD2075 pipe in a facelift before with the owner pushing the damn thing up and bending some clips :P

the letter at the end denotes the colour of the pipe itself

Oh. The RD2082 is made for the xrs as well so i guess it should fit, someone with a silver facelift on the forums got one in, i forgot who! Not sure what the significance of the numbers are though

Yip fits perfectly thats what I have on my 2005 2zz corolla. Also it only has one extra hole to block where as some other models have two. I just slipped a 21mm(from memory) chair leg cap over the hole. There is a picture in my rides thread

Yeah I want to be responsible to a limit,

I'll want to keep the stock 35w HID low beams so no one is blinded on the road, and have the 55w HID's in the high beams.

Although it's a little naughty to have 55w HID's I only use high beams when im the only one on the road, so I shouldn't blind anyone.

As long as the HID startup time is not a problem and the extra power cycles don't have too much of an effect on the HID all should be good.

If I decide to get them I'll post my findings, whether it was a stupid idea or not.

I think in that regard it will be fine the stock H7 High beams are 55w. And digital HID ballasts tend to not draw over 5 amp on startup and settle to around 4.5 amp once warmed up

5amp x 12v = 60w

5.4amp x 12v = 54W

My main concern is high beams can be turned off often and HID dont like this much. and the light pattern/spread

Has anyone done this, did you like the results?

I'm considering installing 55w 5000k high beams in my facelift corolla, every month or so I'm traveling on country roads at night in pitch black for 3 hours.