SATORI893

I bought my Touring new in 2010 as a run out model, paid $35,000 which was $990 under Redbook but because it was their last one I managed to get included in the price the dealer pack (headlight & bonnet protectors, boot liner, dash mat, floor mats, seat covers(never used) and tinting. Can't belive they are only asking $31k now, but given they are 2011 models and we are almost in the 4th month of 2012, depending on how many they have left you could get heaps of extras thrown in, all you have to do is ask or tell them you want this and this etc, can't hurt.

Metal13 posted this under the thread. Aurion Service Manuals it was called, it is for the overseas Camry which is they Aurion here, naturally the manual is for left hand drive but not much difference. If you can't access it from this post just go to the thread.

Download the .ZIP containing the torrent to all of the manuals from here - Camry_Aurion_Manuals.zip.zip 18.01K 22 downloads

You need a Bit torrent client to download the manuals, try UTorrent

I will leave it seeding as much as i can over the coming weeks/months

As for the oil line, I asked toyota about this just last week. up to September 08 models have a rubber pipe insert on the back VVT-i line, from after this the hose was replaced with a complete metal one, no rubber insert in the middle, if they are replacing it under warranty it would pay to discuss they put in the better metal pipe or paying the difference and getting the full metal pipe. I have read other forums online about this and they say the metal pipe with gaskets is about $45. I found it googling the oil sender, the fault is due to vibration and the metal parts of the pipe wearing through the rubber. Mine is a 2010 model and the guy at toyota showed me the pre-April 08 pipe and the one used after, he printed this out for me. I feel the metal pipe is what they should be replacing it with under the recall/warranty.

Yeah could be voltage regulator on the back of the alternator, that's where they put them on the Camrys, failing that if it is wiping the memory from the stereo etc, it means total power loss, you could get them to test the alternator, some places will do this for free cause the assume you will buy a new one off them. If that checks out ok, go through the fuses and see if any are cracked or damaged in anyway, loose connections are worse, involves a lot of wire wiggling to see if you can cause the fault to happen while the engine is running.

Drift Australia got back me regarding adapters with, The tread pitch on the Toyota Aurion should be 1/8"-28 BSPT to screw in an adaptor.

Could be as simple as a loose wire, battery connnection or ECU problem, was the clock still on the same time?, if everything cuts out and the clock went back to normal time then it was still getting power, if it resets to 12 or whatever it resets to if you disconnected the battery then the battery or power to the car has been interupted either by a loose connection or ECU probs. These things are hard to pin point. When it happens take note of what settings are lost like stereo settings(treble, bass and radio stations), speed alert, bluetooth if you use it and even trip meters etc, as long as it doesn't cut out when you are driving and stops you in traffic it could be heat related, though you said you only have to wait for a min then everything is ok so that would not be enough time to cool down if it was heat and it would happen every time the engine/car got hot so rule that out I guess. I would say ECU or more so a loose connection, check your battery terminals, start with the basics and work your way up. If it's a problem that only happens now and then, taking it to toyota is a waste of money unless you can predict what circumstances it occurs under or you call them and talk to the service dept and see if it is a common problem. Sometimes it could be a simple as cleaning the battery terminals and refitting them but with all the modern electronics you never know, could be as simple as the battery terminals or even a faulty fuse, check all your fuses, see if any are loose or don't fit properly. Pain in the butt I know but narrowing down by what loses memory etc. can help isolate the problem. It could be as simple as a loose connection or dud fuse, doing your own fault finding 1st could save you heaps with what a toyota dealer whould charge you, but I am the first to respond, someone on here may give you the answer you need straight away so don't panic. Hope that helps you a bit.

By 'mirror up/ mirror down do you mean the tilt of the mirror? If your mirror has the motor for reverse tilting, you could try with the car in reverse with the key all the way to 'IGN' just before start, Get a test light and unplug the mirror, press the mirror up button and hold it if you have to and try the test light on all the points of the plug from the car (not the mirror) and see which one has power and lights the test light, do the same for mirror down and try all the points of the plug and see which one is getting power, to double check, get someone to press the switch for down or up with the test light in the postion and see when the switch is released if the test light goes out. This will confirm the wires coming out of the back of the plug where you inserted the test light in the front. Of course your mirror needs to have the tilt motor already in it but if it is not a normal or factory feature on your car then they mirror will not have the motor in it for tilting and I doubt toyota would put a reverse tilting mirror on a car without that function, they would have one for that model that does not tilt, cost cutting. You may have to change the mirrors to ones with the tilt motor in them. I am not sure, I had to buy non-genuine aftermarket fold back mirrors for my Aurion, the whole mirror assembly, but still the wiring I am still trying to work out as they are for Camry/Solora in USA or Malaysia, the site I bought them off said they where San Diego CA. but when the mirrors arrived they were sent from Malaysia, the USA is left hand drive, parts of Asia are right hand drive and the Aurion is badged as a Camry these countries. The instructions for installation I got with the mirrors are very vague and for Left hand drive, should not make a difference but still to make sure I don't blow something up or burn something out I have to be carefull of which wire goes where. Putting accessories that are not factory available in a car can be scary but that is something that customising is all about, venturing the unknown or non-genuine to individualise our cars, but it's worth it. Gather as much info as you can, I am still learning, this post has a better supplier for the fold back mirrors, if I could do it again I would buy them from place the vid is from but too late now, I just have to work with what I have already bought. It can be fun, and sometimes expensive. If I need an auto electrician for the mirrors I have it could end up being and expensive mod.

Can you get the Japanse LEDs with a T5 or T10 base like you would buy from say Jaycar or an auto accessories shop?

That's cool Trent, gives me something to work from, turns out the Drift site was a USA one and they probably would have known if I gave them the engine type (2GR-FE), they didn't realize I was from Australia but they are passing my enquiry on to Drift Australia.

Thanks for that.

I upgraded to LEDs and changed the colour as shown in the above vid, both of them, allthought the T5 & T10 LEDs are bright they have a narrow beam, that is how LEDs are, the higher the intensity/brightness the narrower the beam, the lower the intensity/brightness the wider the beam of light. My shifter slot/gate whatever you want to call it is blue now, I changed the P,R,N,D-S,+ & -, to red, the 'N' doesn't light up much, infact you can hardly see it and the '-' symbol for the 'S' mode is the dullest compared to the rest but still lights up unlike the 'N'. Still, looks good and you have dash letters to make sure but it's a shame that the 'N' is dull, spoils the whole affect. The pic doesn't do it justice, the 'P' & the 'R' are more red than they appear. Not sure how the bulbs would go changing the silicone covers but LED seems all the go now and they do draw less power and last longer but at the cost of less area being lit depending on the angle of the bulb.

Hey guys, I am putting in a Drift Oil Pressure gauge in (haven't ordered in yet) but I have asked them if they have a 'T' piece so I can keep the oil lamp as well, they say they have a few different adapters and they need to know the thread size and pitch, I have looked in the service manual but cannot find it in there, I thought they would know, can anyone tell me these two measurements or tell me where I can get the info, I have googled it but can't seem to find it, if no-one knows off hand I will have to try toyota and see if they can tell me, just don't want to have to pull the sendor out to find out.

Cheers.

Well wherever I heard it I was never going to try it or test it out and now that I know that, it's a definate no.

I got the Camry/Solara folding mirrors from the US, the link is on a thread somewhere but the site says they are San Diego CA. but when they arrived it was sent from Taiwan on the postage slip, have not got around to fitting them and have to talk to an auto electrician and go over the wiring with him. They are aftermarket and not genuine and have 4 amber leds for the indicator so if one blow you have to replace the whole indicator part. My standard mirror's adjustment has enough if you switch it to 'L'(naturally) and press the down arrow on the control it tilts the mirror glass enough to see the curb/gutter but it means you have to reset it yourself to the normal driving position as apposed to one that tilts the whole mirror. The rear camera is mainly to see who or what is behind you when reversing, cause it has a fisheye lens the distance and perception is very hard to judge, my Touring has parking sensors but only on the corners of the front and rear bumpers so if something is basically in the middle the sensors will not pick it up, don't know why they didn't include the extra 2 sensors to cover the middle of the bumpers. Cost cutting I guess. As for the Corolla fold back mirrors you could adapt them to fit but it may be a whole custom job and the Corollas work on a switch as mentioned, you can actually drive with them folded back, not sure if a beeper or alarm warns you if they are folded but you have to press the switch to fold them back once you have parked and again to fold them out when you get back in, still handy though. As for the folding mirrors I bought, search 'folding mirror' in the forums and you should find it (DJKOR posted the link from memory), the site claimed the mirrors tilted but they informed me they don't stock the module anymore so I they don't do it, as for wether or not the gear is still in the mirror to do it I won't know until I take the glass out as per the instructions to fit them. (I know you are all telling me to get off my backside and get them done so you can find out.) Who was it that said on here 'there is always something to do or we always find something else to do to our cars. And now that we have the manual to download, that just means we will be altering, modifying and taking appart more of our Aurions.

On the subject of oil, I am getting a Drift Saphire series oil pressure gauge my car, I emailed tthem about a 'T' piece so I can still have my oil light, they got back to me saying they have a few adaptors and want to know threading size and pitch for the Aurion oil sender is. Does anyone know what these are without me having to take the sensor out to have a look? or where to find this info, would be much appreciated.

Cheers

I'm not sure if I read it somewhere or was told it by toyota but I heard if you are in 'S' mode and the revs get too high and you don't up shift it automatically overrides your selected gear and changes up as a saftey feature though I could have been mis-informed or heard it wrong.

I find if I come to a set of lights/intersection and I am turning right with a changing lights or arrow and turning left particularly on 'turn left any time with care' that to pull out of the corner faster, knocking it into 'S' mode and back/down twice into 2nd and accelerating respondes faster than just accelerating and waiting for the auto to kick back to a decent gear especially if you are trying to beat traffic coming from the right. But only if it is safe and within the confines of the law.

DJKOR, is there a simple plug to unplug just these or is it part of the entire headlight plug?

How did you go with the footwell LED strips Graeme? Much hassle in installing them? Just saw them on eBay. Along with a few other bits and peices...

Also, trying to figure out at the same time how to reprogram the spare key from my Black ZR6 which is no more to work on the White one. I found this, but unfortunately doesnt do me much help as of course the ZR6 has the smart keyless system;

http://realgy.blogsp...-to-toyota.html

Anyone had any success here?

Also forgot to mention, the blue led strips I got from Jaycar are the flexible ones not the more expensive stiff ones. They guy who served me told me they are discontinuing them so if you want to go that way it might pay to get them before they run out. I believe they are being replaced by a similar flexible led strip with a protective cover so they can be used outside but these are much more expensive than the unconvered ones which is all you really need for footwell lights as they don't get any contact or knocked about.

Hey Chris,

Have a look at the thread 'DIY Rear bumber lights', do a search on 'rear bumper' and you will find it. Defyant posted it, I am doing the same mod he did and he told me there is 2 sneaky screws up in the wheel arches to get the bumper off besides the obvious ones. As for the wiring, you would have to just use a test light to find the tail and brake lights wires, and someone to push in the pedal or what I do when I wan't to work on the brake lights is move the seat forward and wedge a piece of wood against the seat & brake pedal to hold the brakes on. If you got the ones from Taiwan that I have seen on ebay they have tail & brake light leds in them

Cheers.

VIPZR6, I got the strips from Jaycar, bought those proper 2 way plugs, the ones you get at most car shops & Jaycar or you could go with just crimp connectors, I just ran 150mm strips on each side, all self adheasive with peel off backing. When I found the wires to hook into I just run it from behind the glovebox to the drivers side. I put in the plugs so if the glove box or panel under the steering wheel ever has to be removed you can just unplug the strips. Cost me around $20 all up for the gear, the rest was just time, it's fiddly but if you are patient and don't rush it it's worth doing with the end result, I left the wires long so the wires don't get ripped out if the glove box or drive panel is removed but don't leave them too long or they could hang down into the footwells. I have the excess wire tucked up out of the way so it feeds out if the panels the strips are on are removed. As for the wires you hook into for them to work with the interior light there is a pick on a thread in here that shows the wires to hook into so they fade on and off with the overhead light (interior illumination) I think it is called or just search the word 'footwell' in forums and you will find it with a link to instructions & pics of a DIY intstall. If you can't find it I have a copy of the instructions from toyota on how to put the genuine ones in just so I knew where the wire are. I have included a copy of the pic that shows the wires you have to hook into behind the glovebox so they fade on and off with the overhead light. Good luck and any probs or questions, let me know.

The white wire is Positive and the Brown is negative but use a multimeter or test light to be sure.

Deleted sorry.

This is a customisable feature which can be turned on and off via the Body ECU with the use of the Toyota Intelligent Tester. Try to ask your local service department of they can do so for you. I can't say whether they would charge you for this or not. I guess it depends on how kind they are. I was charged about $27.50 when I asked them to make my remote unlock just the driver's door on the first key press then unlock the other doors on the second press.

Just remember, this way involves you having to go back to Toyota if you want to change it back. Alternatively, you can just disconnect the buzzer and reconnect it if you want to later down the line. There are two buzzers and they are mounted in the actual headlight assembly.

So DJKOR, when you say you have to take it back to toyota to change it back, you still have to take it to toyota to change anything with their Toyota Intelligent Tester? I would love to change mine to just unlock the drivers door on 1 press of the remote, my previous 2003 Camry you could do it all with the owners manual. I guess it's just another way for toyota to make money. And VIPZR6, don't worry my neighbours hate me because of the Aurion, I was soldering up my footwell led strips one Saturday night, having a few beers and wanted to check something on the car, if you unlock the car and pop the bonnet then lock the car again it resets the security system, when I lifted the bonnet up it set off the alarm. This happened to me at 1.30am just 4 days after my neighbours car was broken into by someone smashing the drivers window. Woke them up and they are my good neighbours. But you are right about the beep, it can seem quite load late at night if you are getting home.

WOW, been out tonight with me new headlamps, didn't know what I was missing all this time, low beam is heaps better and high beam...can see everything now.

Yeah DJKOR, I was thinking of replacing them but only if I could upgrade cause they are very bright and for factory bulbs they are white and no yellow tinge. I was just wondering if there was an upgrade but since I can't find one outside of HIDs I will stick with them. As I said if their was an upgrade to the 80% more light and 25m longer beam on the Xtreme bulbs they would be out of this world with how good the HIR1s are now. Because the headlights have been faulty from new I have never been able to see just how good the high beam was, the low beam is much better now to, it shines further infront of the car with a wider beam, before they weren't much better than the fog lamps. Toyota gave me the stuff around yesterday, car was booked in in the mornings and suppose to be finished at 2pm, they missed the job card in the intray and called me at 1pm saying they would need the car till 4 to get the new headlamps in. I asked on pickup how they were going to compensate me for the inconvienience and me not having a car all day. I asked for a genuine first aid kit worth around $28 bucks, they said no yesterday but they called this morning and are going to drop one in this arvo for me. I have also asked them cause the 9005s would not fit properly and they left them out how did they adjust the headlamps after they fitted them, the service guy is checking what they did and if they came pre-set from the factory but they looked pretty good last night just in the driveway, haven't had them out on the road a night yet though.

Had my headlamps replaced today, the adjustment screw was faulty and they were stuffed but toyota told me I had the wrong bulbs in the high beam, the manual said HIR1s which I have learnt are also called 9011. A guy from Autobarn looked up what upgrade I would need and the rest was Philips so I went the same with high beam. I put in the X-tremePower bulbs, the ones with +80% light and a claimed 25m longer beam. The guy who looked them up said my Aurion takes 9005s or HB3s. After some research tonight it seems the 9005 upgrade is to the 9011s and I even found a diagram of how to modify 9011s to fit a 9005 holder. Anyway they left the high beams out and I have put back in the original 2011s which seem very white next to the Phillips Blue Vision low beam and now the high beam is fantastic. I can't find an upgrade for the HIR1/9011 original bulbs from Philips or Toshiba. I am happy with the original ones now but I am wondering if I can modify the X-tremePower 9005s to fit properly into my headlamps because of the claims of more light and a longer beam. Don't want to do the HID conversion. Any ideas or recommendations someone could give me?

Hey all cheers for the replies, went to a couple of paint shops and they reckon that it has been resprayed and its just the paint under the gloss bubbling????? ****** me! how **** is that, ill try and ask the previous owner on where it got sprayed or try a claim and blame it on road works haha, cheers for the hints

When my car got badly scratched they had bogged the dent but it wasn't enough to fill it so they mixed up some more and hit it again but the first application hadn't gone off. It had air trapped in it and when the sun would heat the panel the air would expand and bubbles would appear in the paint. All fixed now but could be a similar problem with yours from the rain or if it has been resprayed they may have put the spray putty on too thick and that is causing the problem. Just a tought.