Hiro

Just do what the dealership is probably doing and just spray the sides with CRC/WD40/other squeak-stopper :P Taking a dash apart to diagnose little rattles or squeaks is a major major task for minimal benefit, and we all know dealerships are lazy :P

Well, yet another problem has surfaced, at least this one is relatively minor (but still annoying), I swear this car knows that I've got a full time job now and hence have money.......barely a thing goes wrong in 11 years of ownership, and now it seems there's a new problem every month.

Car has an extreme reluctance to idle, when it's cold it will crank and fire but stall just about immediately unless some throttle is applied, once it's warm it will JUST hold an idle without any assistance. Turning the air-con on helps it a bit (extra air from the idle-up valve you see), but it's still not normal. Ever since I got back from the cruise the idle has been erratic, initially was a cold idle about 600rpm and a warm idle of 1100rpm, when it should be the other way around, then it degenerated on the drive down to Sydney on the weekend to it's current struggle-street status, but at least the warm idle is lower.....

My bet is on the ISC valve, but won't be able to check it until lunch-time.

lol. funny thing is there is nobody in the drivers seat.

Maybe because it's bogged any they've gone to get help...?

no way! are you serious...

Yes, I'm serious.....

Isn't the internet just a wonderful medium for sarcasm...

lol. funny thing is there is nobody in the drivers seat.

Maybe because it's bogged any they've gone to get help...?

btw, you say you had problems selecting reverse as well? It's always a good idea in a manual vehicle to select first (when it was available) before selecting reverse to allow the synchros to line up/slide smoothly...

Correct, but false. You don't shift into first before reverse to line the synchros up because reverse doesn't have synchromesh. You do it because unlike the forward gears, which are helical cut, reverse is straight-cut, and thus if the teeth don't line up exactly the gears won't mesh. You shift into first or second to use their helical cut teeth to rotate the input shaft (which is disconnected from the engine by the clutch) slightly so that the teeth have a better chance of lining up.

considering my friend puts 4.5L in2 his 3.0L camry...

Considering also it's a V6, with two heads, and two extra cylinders, no wonder it takes more oil than a 2.2L 4cylinder....

Trust something like this to happen when I didn't have any credit, but at the same time didn't have any reception and was out in the middle of the ocean...

Those rear tail lights look like they came straight off a facelift dc5 :o

They did.

*the engines getting old and has done nearly 300,000km. So its simply cos its getting old.

Mine's a tick under 300,000km, completely un-opened, and apart from a slow oil burn (5000km oil changes avoid that problem) it's still as fresh as a daisy, because it was run in properly and lead a charmed life on the open road for the first 7-8 years of it's life, not city traffic. On the other hand, my mate's 102 was burning oil like nothing else, and had significantly less power (mine stock was just about better than his with full intake and exhaust mods), simply because it was treated poorly early in it's life.

It's automatic and the engine is revving, but the car is not moving very fast? Sounds like a dead torque convertor in the automatic gearbox.

Gav.

Bingo. First thing I thought was slipping clutch, but then saw it was auto. Equivalent to a slipping clutch in an auto is a fubared torque converter (not locking up properly)

I've been there, done that, and the gains would be negligible at best. You might get a slightly better sound, but any gains are most likely going to be offset by that second helping of pasta you had the night before. The supposed real benefit of a K&N filter is that it doesn't have to be replaced anywhere near as often as a normal paper filter, so if you intend on keeping it there for a _loooooong_ time then maybe it's worth it.

$99 sounds about right for the price, although you'll get better value and gains out of a proper CAI setup and pod like I have (but your fuel consumption will probably rise too). Doing the exhaust by itself will probably net you between 5 and 10kw at the wheels, and will be a lot more noticable.

I'm a bit of a hobo and I like to wear thongs on the weekends, but I find it hard to use the clutch with thongs so I take them off. Using the clutch with bare foot gets goddam painful after a while.

I almost always drive bare-foot, even on long trips. Yes, my feet do get sore after a while, but so do my legs, arms and back, so they all get a rest at the same time.

Probrem solvered.

Or you could just buy yourself one of those tow ball covers that just slip over it very easy to take off when youre coupling a trailer and put it back on after.

Or just use a tennis ball....

That actually does sound quite valid. It makes sense though. Kind of like wearing it in to withstand it's maximum output. I guess this is why Toyota says there is no specific break-in period. It does also seem like the wrong thing to do, but that's just from a general perspective.

A lot of cars these days have effectively been run in before they even hand the keys over to you....so any "running-in" is irrelevant. However, it obviously does apply to freshly rebuilt engines.

Yeah he has better than average driving skills, and is a half-decent rally driver, but you can easily see (and has been proven) that it's not one take, and with a _lot_ of practice.

Although, obviously not enough practice, as he hits the wall at 2:20....

DJKOR - i think your White LED's look neat

haha... factory option in japan

mine are blue LED's and they are probably very rice, they shine nicely on the chrome pedal covers that i've got...

its just a thing that i have where i like to see my feet when im driving and I dont find it distracting at all.

I have them hooked up to the accessories, so whenever I put my parkers on, they come on with it.

I usually drive with my headlights on too - it is a free safety feature...

But why bother seeing your feet at all though? If it was a race car and you were taking footage of your gear changes etc that can be tied back to data tracks or the like, then maybe. But apart from that any time spend admiring your shoes and pedals is time not spent looking out the windscreen, even if it's just peripheral vision. The only time your eyes should be off the windscreen is the standard mirror checks, and to look at the speedo. Everything else _has_ to be automatic, and blind.

And trust me, you mightn't find it distracting, but cops won't necessarily see the same way as you. Goes the same for DVD screens etc which have to automatically turn off when the car is running if they are within line of site of the driver.

Of course, it's absolutely necessary to have lighting down there, so you can see where the pedals are in case someone's stolen them....

Since they are there for vanity and/or bling, and serve no real performance-enhancing purpose, I class them as rice. Or at least ****.

The only way I'd install them would be if they were hooked up to the interior light, and turned off when the engine was started. In all other circumstances they'd be too distracting (any light that doesn't come from the road is deemed distracting, which is the whole point of HUDs and dimming dash clusters at night-time, so you can concentrate on looking straight ahead.

Everything of importance inside the door is usually protected from any water in some way anyway - often just a sheet of clear plastic that divides inside and outside. Usually some form of metal protection on the inside metal too so that any seepage that does occur is drained and doesn't corrode away at the inside of the door.

Although you should always check that the drain holes aren't clogged with dirt or leaves, which leads to water building up in the door cavity, which leads to rust. This is why you see sooo many old cars with the bottom of the door rusted out.

1s-LLU 1832CC

thanks for that little tidbit, i had no idea where to find the engine number

Good, that narrows down the options somewhat. Does the plate say 1S-LLU or 1S-iLU? If it's iLU then it's a single point fuel injection (pretty similar to a carby). Regardless, it is _not_ a common engine in Australia, however just about any S-series engine should bolt into it's place (3SGE, 3SFE, 5SFE etc) with little or no mechanical modifications. The problem would be that just about any engine that you'd replace it with would be EFi, and thus you'd most likely need an ECU and an auto electrician to do all the wiring for you (not something you want to do yourself, especially if you have no experience).

unless you got dr suresh to back you! LOL we can start the new heroes oz version..:-) I will be peter petrelli! LOL you can be sillar! Coz you are the bad boy! Hahahaha =-) ok let's go back to the topic!

I'll be Hiro, because I'm......well, actually I'm not Asian...

It makes sense to progressively release colours onto the market. At launch, if you give the customer too many colour options, it becomes very expensive for the factory to provide all those options, especially if some colours are going to be low-volume sellers. But if you release a base group which will sell well, you can then determine if an extra colour is worth it and release it mid-life (or at a facelift). The risk you run is if you market it as a premium colour for up-market or special models, then everyone gets a hold of it and puts it on base models, destroying any sense of premium or exclusiveness.

Holden Tiger Orange and Phantom Purple, I'm looking at you

true, every one has their style and opinion but that`s what makes this planet great. now the FX-GT i`ll trade you for a RHD ae111 .

AE111 Levin worth about 10 grand here (but easy to get). AE101 FX-GT bar worth about $300, but hard to get. Bit of a gap :P

billy slater

And I also hate him, so I take every chance I can to raz on him.

Here here.

Sure when he plays well he can be hot, just like Brent Tate. But also like Brent Tate he gives away as much as he gives.

But good on NZ for out playing us, there is only 1 game that counts.

I call Brent Tate "The Crab", because he seems to spend more time going sideways than forwards.

That, and "horse-face".

well.

I checked and there is not even a boot release lever up front near the drivers seat and the fuel cap opens just fine.

So either im missing the boot release lever totally or its something else???

Someone with a caldina??

Try putting the trim off around the boot lock (not the tailgate) and see if you can see a cable running to the lock. Not every car has a remote release for the tailgate (my parent's Mazda2 doesn't, for instance), because wagons tend to have handles in the gate, whereas sedans don't.

its very seppo

Agreed. Unfortunately, that's not my style of car. Kudos for getting the power out of a 4AFE (I prefer the 7A though :P), but the colour scheme and massive bodykit are instant turn-offs (and this from a die-hard AE10x fan)

Still, always good to see people doing proper work to an AE10x, not just tarting it up (whilst I don't respect the style, I do respect the effort). Now, if you could just send an FX-GT front bar over here for me (they seem to be everywhere in the US).......:P