Hiro

yea... learnt this in my teaching course...

we overlook the spelling mistakes to read what it meant 2 say.

Or we know the story off by heart and therefore can recite it almost verbatim without even reading it

This thing is incredibly old, and incredibly already known by everyone

umm.. i 4 one wouldnt remember this crap verbatim.. and i didnt really knwo bout it before i started studying teaching.

Thats why I said _almost_. I don't know it word for word, but the instant I see it I know what its going on about, as I've seen it sooooooo many times before. Even the first time I saw it I wasn't that impessed

Started going down-hill big time after JoBeth started. These days it is just a pale shadow of what it used to be, with more and more non-local videos (usually American, and from 10-15 years ago) filling in the gaps. And they now have a band play at the end? What the hell?

yea... learnt this in my teaching course...

we overlook the spelling mistakes to read what it meant 2 say.

Or we know the story off by heart and therefore can recite it almost verbatim without even reading it

This thing is incredibly old, and incredibly already known by everyone

I'm almost done all i need now is the pic that has the alternator on it.

If you post that it would be great.

I'll get a photobucket folder up as soon as I can

I'm hoping someone has a manual for 93-98 corolla

i need to know what the code for the 6 wires from the distributor are

even a quick scan of the engine management schematic would be great.

I'm certain I emailed you the wiring diagrams about a month ago, can do it again if you want, it may have been too big for your inbox though (all up its about 10 meg)

Here's the page with the distributor stuff on it anyway:

looks like a peugeot and thats not a good thing....

I'd say the new one looks more like a Peugeot 206 than the old one, MUCH more.

thats a sweet looking mazda2. the current one is unbearable to even look at.

wouldnt mind one actually. and that is a ****load of pwr for a little car like that.

i love it.

Whats wrong with the current one? Whilst no style leader, you could hardly call it ugly. Plain maybe, or boring, or bland, but not ugly

And they are an awesome car to drive too, plus very practical (my parents own one)

From what I've read, it's more likely to be a 1.3L turbo (at least for JDM), as the big 2.0L would break the boundaries of what the new 2 is trying to achieve (smaller, lighter than the old one, reversing the trend of superminis getting bigger these days)

weight 1680kgs

Looks good Is that weight right though, seems too heavy

thats the weight they gave in the specs as gross weight

Gross weight is the weight of the car, all fluids, driver and a full compliment of passengers and cargo, aka the MOST weight the vehicle can carry. The weight you probably want is the tare (dry) or kerb (wet, with driver I think)

easiest way to make a corolla sound like a skyline is to get a KE, and install a RB26. It'll sound exactly like a Skyline then, although you may have a little trouble installing the engine

Using the excuse "the p-plate fell off" is NO excuse because there is a perfectly acceptable mounting option for them which is almost guaranteed not to let them fall off. P-plate holders can be acquired from just about any auto-parts shop and probably K-mart etc too for around $10-15, require two screws each to attach to your number plate, then if you're absolutely anal you can add some electrical tape to keep the plates in their holders. Sure, people may still try to nick them, but they don't do that WHILST you're driving, do they? So just keep a stack of spares in the car (as JP said, the RTA provide them free anyway), and just do a check before you get into the car that none are missing.

I agree we are being "nannied' to death by Toyota and all those STUPID American Law suit driven things.

Elsewhere in the the manuals which says something like this: do not keep the tank below 1/4 its capacity, that means below 17.5l. There must be a good reason behind this (I don't know) but the light comes up as designed.

BH

Supposedly the catalytic converter doesn't like the car running out of petrol, so it could be that

19" and light do not go in the same sentence together

G'day all,

Just wondering if anyone could tell me which wire i need to splice into to connect an Autometer rev tacho in my 96' Hiace. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!

(the names' Paul, aatiling@hotmail.com) Cheers!

The signal wire for a tacho traditionally comes from the negative terminal of the coil. The rest of the wires should be ground, and probably one to connect to your dash lights so that it lights up at night

every 100,000km service. mine is due soon @ 200,000kms

MZ could be different to VZ....

I wonder if its possible to make run safely on 98octane.

I meant, the Prius runs on 13:1 comp ratio

But the Prius (and most hybrids) run Atkinson Cycle, which actually leaves the intake valve open for part of the compression cycle, thus lowering the actual compression ratio. The physical compression ratio (ie comparison of volumes between BDC and TDC) is indeed around 13:1, but effective compression ratio is much lower, around 9 or 10:1 if I remember correctly, thus allowing it to run on standard pump premium

how do you know it's a she?

Well, it is a merMAID

Male ones are called mermen

perform the same mods to an AE and it will still handle better ;)

Of course you could always fix that nasty torsion beam with a grinder, zip ties and hotglue

Agreed, having driven both a ZZE122 and an AE102, I can safely say that I infinitely prefer the setup of the 102

I am a FWD cars enthusiast, and I would like to explain why for me FWD cars are overall superior to RWD cars and, from a certain point of view, to AWD cars also.

1) the engine and the gearbox overall mass directly over the front axle means at the same time more brake power, more control, more directionality, more safety, more space, more stability, more traction.

Weight transfer during acceleration means you have LESS traction in a front wheel drive car under acceleration than a RWD car. And "directionality", if it is what I think you are referring to, has a lot more to do with suspension setup than driving wheels.

3) with a FWD car, if you apply full throttle when cornering the car becomes understeering and the worst thing that can happen is that the car go straight, colliding longitudinally with the obstacles (take a scale car model and lock with adhesive tape the front wheels, make it run on the floor, and see what happens. Then lock the rear wheels and then all the wheels, and see what happens)

So, so wrong. Notice that model cars are not scale replicas when it comes to weight, and also aren't producing power at the wheels, nor do they have fully working suspension. It would be like pushing a pedal-car into a wall and using that as crash data.

Furthermore, on a FWD car generally only the wheel with less grip spins, while the other wheel keeps the directionality.

This happens on ANY car without an LSD or locked differential. And the thing that you're losing here is the ability to put power through to the ground, not traction for steering. ANY car with an open diff can light up an inside wheel when going through a corner, FWD or not, and still retain steering ability.

With a RWD car, instead, the car become oversteering and the worst thing that can happen is that the car fishtails, colliding transversally with the obstacles

This can be corrected with proper suspension setup. Most modern cars, RWD or not, are designed to understeer or be neutral at their limit, because of the flexibility of modern suspension designs. Older cars with simpler suspension like solid axles and leaf springs didn't have that ability, and thus were more likely to oversteer at the limit

With an AWD car, instead, understeer and oversteer limits are obviously higher, but if you exceed them the car control recovery could be very problematic for a normal driver, because over a certain limit the car understeer with the front axle and oversteer with the rear axle, all at the same time.

You can't oversteer with one axle and understeer with another at the same time. Understeer and oversteer refer to the angle of the car relative to the steering angle of the wheels. Oversteer is when the car has turned further than the front wheels have turned - understeer is when the front wheels have turned more than the car. Most AWD naturally understeer, and are quite hard to provoke into oversteer (notice the lack of AWD cars in drifting competitions).

4) a FWD car is very easy and instinctive to control, because if when cornering the FWD car becomes understeering you have just to release the accelerator pedal and, eventually, slightly adjust the trajectory. A RWD car is very difficult and not at all instinctive to control, because if when cornering the FWD car becomes oversteering you have to carefully keep pressed the accelerator pedal and quickly conutersteer to keep the trajectory.

Do this once into a corner, experience lift-off oversteer, and then come back and say you understand how cars handle. Saying a RWD is not instinctive to handle is a joke, since no car is _instinctive_ to handle as it is a skill that has to be learnt from scratch.

Briefly, I think that the overall best possible solution today available is a FWD car with an open differential, better if with TCS (Traction Control System: electronically controlled artificial limited slip differential actuated by brakes) and ASR (Anti-Slip Regulation: electronically controlled power modulation actuated by the drive-by-wire throttle). Why an open differential? Simple: just because with an open differential while one wheel spins the other wheel can keep the trajectory.

All these electronic gizmos just to get the thing to handle as well as a car with an LSD. Arguably one of THE best handling FWD cars of all time, the DC2 Honda Integra Type-R, had none of that electronic crap, just FWD, LSD and a well sorted chassis/suspension combination. One of the best handling FWD cars currently available is the Renault Clio Sport 172 Cup, again with no electronic stability control, no ABS,

And now, the curiosities corner.

Did you know what is the most powerful FWD car ever? As far as I know, the most powerful FWD car ever is the existing Pontiac Grand Prix GXP, equipped with a 303 hp SAE net 5.3 V8 engine (307 hp DIN, EU-spec).

And did you know that it handles like an absolute BOAT?

FWD with large amounts of power are extremely hard to get acceptable handling out of. The SAAB Viggen, for instance, only had about 170kw but had MASSIVE amounts of torque steer, and whilst a very good performer in a straight line it would get left for dead in the twisty sections by your average RWD family sedan.

In short, I think there is a LOT you need to learn about car handling, chassis dynamics and suspension tuning. Whilst it is easy to repeat myths and generalisations, actually understanding the theories behind what you are talking about makes a HUGE difference. Being part of a design-and-build racing team at my university for 3 years has taught me immeasurable things about those subjects, coming from the mouths and books of some of the most respected car designers and race mechanics (Carroll Smith, Ron Tauranac for instance)

I've got a Fujitsu Ten radio cassette out of a 97 Corolla, if I remember correctly it looks the same as the Camry of the day, can't remember security code on it though, but it's been sitting in the bottom of my cupboard since I got a CD headunit a couple of years ago

Whereabouts are you?

BTW, there's one on eBay at the moment from a 1996 Camry, including harness

eBay Fujistu Ten Camry radio

CAUTION:THIS PRODUCT IS NOT SUITABLE FOR SEATS FITTED WITH AIRBAGS..

why not??

I'm guessing they're referring to side airbags mounted in the seats

I should be there

what about the TRD one u can get of eBay etc... is it much heavier?

Which one? The normal leather one, the round leather one, or the round-ish duracon/plastic one?

I've got the normal leather one, it's not that heavy but it looks good and sits at the same height as the stock one, plus it screws on first time (doesn't have to tap a thread, or use silly sleeves and grub screws)

OK now how the heck did you find out what model trannys get fitted to the different blocks?, C series, S series etc??????????

I don't suppose this tranny spec stuff is published on the internet anywhere?

This is all assuming stock from factory, and manual too obviously

If it's an N/A FWD A-series engine, it will have a C-series gearbox

If it's a forced induction FWD A-series engine, it'll have an E-series gearbox

If it's a RWD A-series engine, it'll have a T-series gearbox

If it's an N/A S-series engine, it'll have an S-series gearbox (not sure about the 3SGE though)

If it's a RWD S-series engine, it'll have a J-series gearbox

If it's a F/I S-series engine, it'll have an E-series gearbox

If it's a T-series engine, it'll have a T-series gearbox

If it's an R-series engine, it'll have a W-series gearbox (or P51, if it's an 18RG)

If it's an N/A M-series engine, it'll have a W-series gearbox

If it's a F/I M-series engine, it'll probably have an R-series gearbox

If it's a JZ engine, it'll have a R-series or V-series gearbox

I think thats most of them, they may be individual models that have different boxes though, easiest way to find out is to look at the VIN plate on the firewall of the car/frontcut, it'll tell you both the engine code and the gearbox code