Hiro

12 x 1.5?

If its the same as a 102 Corolla, then yes 12x1.5, I bored a genuine EL GT Falcon knob (nice leather Momo one) from around 8mm I think out to 11, then tapped a 12x1.5 thread and countersunk with 13mm to get the right height

is there a way you can tell if the mr2 is non turbo or turbo besides looking at the engine

They tend to have a sticker on the side saying something like 2000 DOHC Turbo or the like, at least the one down the street from me does

are they <_< damn! why are they illegal?

Because they put loads onto the studs that they weren't designed for. Plus, chances are the hub-flange on the spacer is the wrong size, or doesn't exist at all, so the wheel will only be located by the stubs

Actually, wheel spacers are technically legal if your car came fitted with them as standard from the factory. Only car I know that had them standard were 930 Porsches, and apparently they've lasted just fine, so obviously they work if designed correctly. Aftermarket spacers AREN'T designed correctly however, as they have to cater for so many different cars.

i thought isuzu is owned by toyota??

You're probably thinking of Hino. Isuzu has been owned by GM for donkeys years - notable models include the Gemini, Jackaroo, and the Rodeo (possibly only badged the 2600 back then)

If you want a RWD corolla then spend the money on an AE86 project.

why? when there are perfectly good and REASONABLY PRICED ke series rollas kicking around ;)

I want the oversteer Dyl lol

Pfft, you can get oversteer easy in a KE......it just usually means getting rid of the K-series. Leaf springs at the rear mean sideways action is always looming on the horizon (hit a pothole going around a corner and the whole rear end will skip sidways, thats stock as well)

i know that 1jz heads are put on 2jz blocks but yes they have the same bore and stroke.

1JZ and 2JZ don't have the same stroke. They have the same bore though, which is what allows the head swap.

Considering the 1ZZ and 2ZZ have different bores and strokes, this is most definitely NOT a bolt-on option....

Tried finding something on ebay but im not that good at searching lol. Anyway im after an adapter that can plug a creative vision m into a pioneer DEH P5750MP. The head unit is “ipod ready” but of course you have to fork out some odd 150 bux for an adapter which wont work anyway. I though just connect it to the rca out but want to know if theres another option that makes it so I can search tracks on my hu and not have to flick through the mp3 player.

Plugging into the RCA out won't do jack. It's called OUT for a reason - it's for taking sound from the head unit to an amp or the like, not the other way around. Pioneers use something called the P-Bus (which is what the first P stands for in the name) to allow you to connect iPods, cd stackers etc. Chances are the only way would be to get an adaptor for that, or to get an FM adaptor and tune into the station on the headunit

Gunmetal/Charcoal, but obviously it depends on the colour of the car......oh and of course it has to have a polished lip

Let me guess, someone just watched the Jamboree coverage on Speedweek and wants to emulate the 2JZ Camry.....

I live in Newcastle. I'm guessing about 80-90% of the population here can't drive for ****. I've followed people the entire way to uni (10km, several roundabouts and numerous traffic lights) and they haven't used their indicator once. People change lanes when they feel like it, not when it's clear (I've almost been sideswiped by a truck on one particular occasion), people love to come flying up behind you on the bypass with high beams on, when you're already doing 10km/h over trying to overtake the slow-coach in the left lane. There are old people who take 3 intersections to get up to speed coming out of traffic lights. People who can't park properly in angle parking, even if it's nose to kerb (seriously the easiest parking ever, you barely have to turn the wheel to park). People who cut across 3 lanes without indicators because they weren't paying attention to when their turnoff was. Many people will do u-turns at traffic lights (only legal in certain places in the ACT).

And the funny thing is, although P-platers do silly things at times, I have seen all the above offences committed by people on their full licences. In my mind, the most dangerous people on the road are middle-aged people in a rush, bimbos in Excels, and old-farts in anything. Next on the list are the Patrol (rarely Landcruiser, for some reason) drivers who forget to turn their indicators off, and can't seem to bother turning their heads to see if they're about to run over someone when they change lanes

There are many times when I wish that I live in Sydney, the traffic might be **** but the drivers are miles ahead of up here. If you get stuck in the city and need to change lanes, someone well let you in no problem. Up here, you might as well wait until peak time is over.

I thought this was going to be a topic about actually MAKING your own rims. Having been through this process on the Formula SAE car, I thought I could offer some experience.....

Seems kinda pointless now that I know what the topic is really about

hey everyone,

there seems to be a problem with my acceleration pedal, i dont know if its rust or whatever, but when i step down on it, it tends to get stuck. hmm kinda hard to explain. but ive tried spraying wd40 where the hinges are, but it doesnt really help. its not much of a big problem or anything, its just kinda annoying when i accelerate at the lights or something, cause i have to step down harder than normal to get it to go down, and when it does, it makes me look silly cause the car jerks.

You sure it's a pedal problem and not a throttle problem? Try opening the throttle by hand in the engine bay, see if it's sticking there. If so, the pedal is most likely fine and you've got a sticky throttle. Otherwise, check that the cable is sliding freely, and that the cable is firmly attached to the pedal.

MR2s run a FWD-style engine/transaxle setup, therefore it is practically impossible to put something like a Supra RWD gearbox in. You're effectively stuck with whatever manuals and autos that come with Corollas (C- and E- manuals, A- autos), and only the ZZW had a "tiptronic" one (actually a sequential manual). In that case, manuals are infinitely preferrable, as most of the autos are not performance grade and will NOT shift quickly, or hold to redline etc. Most probably don't even have a sequential mode in them, just the PRD21 etc

wow.... hold on..

blue rolla u said i wont be able to tune into some radio stations? well not i listen to the music on the station (same music playing every week... blooody guy spasm... veronica crap.....)

HIRO.. so you say we can tune it??? to make it able to tune into our radio stations? how can we check if its able to do so or not? whats the function called?

The radio stations in the US are in the same band as the one here, so the tuner doesn't need adjusting in that regard. What needs to be changed is what is known as the tuning step. This is the frequency "gap" between possible stations, and will be the amount that the frequency increases when you turn the knob or press the button on the head unit once. US use a different tuning step than Aus (can't remember what it is exactly, but say for the sake of things US go up by 30Hz, Aus go up by 50Hz. This is wrong, but an example) and on my Pioneer there's an option in the Function menu (put the unit into standby, hold down the Function button, go through the list etc etc) to switch between the two steps. I would be surprised if this wasn't a standard feature on all head units, to allow them to be a global unit and not unique to particular countries.

nah we don't get sat radio - they decided it wasnt worth it here or soemthing... we're a pretty small radio market....

the head units will work, but im pretty sure the way they tune their FM or AM radio is different to us, and so you won't get certain radio stations... i honestly can't remember the specifics of it... but yeah apart from that CDs will work, and volts are volts no matter where you are, so all that stuff will work too...

I think the term is tuning step, and most head units allow you to change it to alternate between US and Aus setups (at least you can on my Pioneer). Head units are pretty universal things, as cars are supposed to be too apart from LHD/RHD differences. They're all 12V, so voltages don't matter (unlike household supply) etc etc

hmmmm, I have BSA Au229s, aka Volk TE37 copies. I hope nothing like this ever happens to mine, then again I've got slightly less torque than an SS Commodore

i heard dish is harder to have on FF cars ? not sure if its true. i know FF and FR cars often have fairly different offsets so im sure this must be the reason ? not sure exactly lol.

oh if you like rims with a black center and some dish check out mine :)

the outside dish is not that much but from the center of the rim to the outside there is a decent amount.

Practically all new cars these days, FWD or RWD have a high positive offset. The old rule of thumb of "Positive offset for FWD, zero or Negative for RWD" no longer applies.

Secondly, the wheels you have on the AE86 are 14" MA61 mags, with a 4x114.3 and about +8 offset, and wouldn't have a chance in hell of fitting on a +40 4x100 Corolla. And there aren't many, if any aftermarket wheels in that kind of design that would fit either.

silver Sportivo, plates RG-9999, top floor of Westfield Tuggerah shopping centre around 11:00 on Wednesday

So whats happened to the 102 then?

I currently have a ford T50 gearbox which matches the 4AG engine perfectly.

The T50 is a Toyota gearbox dude, not a Ford. The reason why it matches perfectly is because it's the exact same gearbox used in the AE86, which used the 4AGE engine. T50s also came out in T-series Celicas, and are extremely common to use in Clubmans with A-series engines (one of my uni lecturers has a silvertop 4AGE 20V and T50 in his clubman)

Hiro: whats your point? 20v's in nz arnt excacty uncommon....

but yeh, im sure it flows better in boosted apps (if thats what you were getting at).

Most people, when talking about 7AGEs, are referring to 16V ones, as they're the ones that use Porsche 944 timing belts. I think the 20V ones use something a bit weirder, like a Lada or something. It's also a blacktop, which is a heck of a lot more common in NZ than here (silvertops aren't that hard to get a hold of here, but blacktops are worth their weight in gold)

Bazda in Nz is running a 7agte (7afe block, 4age head, custom rods, pistons, massive turbo), Turning out 337FWkw.

He's also running a 20V head, not your normal standard 16V one....

Hasn't hit here yet, I'm keeping the keys close at hand though, just incase I have to drive north-west to avoid it

*coughs to draw attention to Charlene...*

The 102 is a very underrated car, stuck between the SX and Twinkies, and the Sportivos. Unfortunately, this means that aftermarket stuff is quite limited, but thats ok because it's a pretty good car anyway. The 7A mightn't be the firebrand that a 4AGE is, but when you think about it it's got some potential - same power and more torque than a bigport, just with less ability to rev. Base suspension is solid (independent all-round, unlike newer ones), bigger brakes than an SX (and with less kerb weight too), plenty of room inside and in the boot, and most people will think that it's a granny driving (if you like the sleeper look).

I've driven mine for 3-odd years now, and it's just ticked over 265,000km and still going strong, purely on dealer servicing. Never broken down, never overheated, worst thing that has happened has been a couple of dodgy batteries and some brainless ******* sticking road tar in the door-locks. It's slowly receiving mods as I receive money, so it's currently got head-unit and speakers, mags, seat covers and headlights, but still stock suspension and engine components.

If you want to transform it completely, a full suspension makeover will turn it into a real corner carver. New struts and lowered springs all-round, plus rollbars to match, will make a world of difference, and there's plenty you can play around with in the engine department. One of my mates is in the running-in stage of his rebuilt worked 7A, and he says the difference is amazing. A nice clean guard-located cold air intake and full exhaust really livens up the engine, and thats without even touching internals

Take a look at his ride if you want any tips, he's on Twincam (username Davo), I'd post a link but Twincam is down at the moment for some weird reason