Hiro

Sounds like the regulator in the alternator is gone - you should never be getting more than ~14.5V when the engine is running, otherwise you'll cook the battery.

19 hours ago, trentmeyer23 said:

Normal unleaded will be fine, but you should probably use a lead replacement additive as well due to era that it was built.

All M-series engines are alloy-head so should have hardened valve seats from factory, thus not requiring a lead additive.  Running Premium (95 or 98RON) is probably recommended though as the octane rating is closer to the old Super leaded petrol that the car would have been tuned for originally.

A lot of the misinformation about requiring lead additives comes from mechanics/people who mostly were used to the old Ford and Holden straight-sixes, which ran cast iron heads right up until the 80s (when Ford developed an alloy head and Holden put the RB30 Nissan motor in, only to go back to a cast-iron head for the Buick V6)

2 hours ago, folklorians said:

thanks guys.. I'm a noob when it comes to car stereos .. i was just sick of the old basic aurion head unit with only mp3 cds... and radio haha 

I think the aerpro harness they've given me is actually wrong because ive been googling and it's saying the harness I need is app8sp4 not app8sp3?? I'm not saying this will solve my steering wheel problems. im thinking i need another adapter for the steering wheel controls, it looks like the App8sp4 has a longer wire coming off of it which I'm assuming is for the h/brake connection..

which the app8sp3 doesn't have... 

appreciate all the info! 

Yeah you have to be careful with adaptor harnesses for AV units as they often have more pins/features than standard ones, so just getting "Sony 16-pin 2013->" for instance doesn't guarantee that it'll work.

4 hours ago, trentmeyer23 said:

Is the park brake applied?

I'd say the Aerpro loom just has the handbrake ground wire just hanging free/taped up, they don't ground through the harness and have to be manually connected to the handbrake switch to work properly (speaking from experience with the Kenwood DVD unit in Kevin) - or it can just be grounded permanently to bypass the handbrake switch (which is illegal but you probably won't get caught for it unless you're cruising down the highway and a cop sees you watching Fast and the Furious whilst driving...)

EDIT - I think it needs to be grounded, may be the opposite (ie +12V), there should be a wiring guide or installation manual that comes with the head unit telling you where it needs to be connected to

32 minutes ago, mg85 said:

The sway bar I took off the car was no where close to 4mm wall thickness, my point was it is way to light for the job it was supposed to be doing.

I know, it was purely an example, the point being that weight alone isn't a good indicator of torsional stiffness

17 hours ago, mg85 said:

I bought a rear Sway bar for my GSV40 from Ultra Racing with no probs, I was surprised to see the original bar is made from very light hollow tube no wonder body roll was an issue.

 

Nothing wrong with hollow tube for a sway bar, most torsional stress is carried in the outer few mms of a circular cross section so significant weight savings can be made for minimal strength loss by going to a hollow tube.  There are other costs/negatives though, such as the added complexity of designing the blades as well as higher stresses, but depending on your intent these are either important or irrelevant.

For example

http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/bulletins/Hollow vs Solid Swaybar.pdf

A solid 24mm diameter sway bar has the same torsional stiffness as a 25.4mm OD hollow tube w/ a 4mm wall, but the hollow tube is ~40% lighter for a negligible overall size increase (1.4mm diameter).

1989 would be an AE92, as far as engine components go they share pretty much everything with the Australian-delivered 4AGEs and there are plenty of aftermarket options too so no real issues there, the electronic suspension (TEMS) is a different story and if things go wrong there you're probably better ripping it out and just running the conventional springs/struts (which are also common with the Australian models).  Body panels are basically unique so if you're in a crash or have rust you'll need to track down another Levin/Trueno shell.  Some of the interior will be common (or at least swappable) too but if the thing isn't intact you'll almost certainly tear your hair out trying to track down all the bits and bobs to get it all back together

On 9/29/2016 at 3:18 PM, Ozzie Chickadee said:

 Are all RA65 2.4? I was told it was rare because of that and the fact it was 5 Speed Manual. Thanks for you help 

Yep, all RA65s have the 2.4L 22RE engine, the RA60 and SA63 both had 2.0L.  Manual definitely makes it more desirable but there were still plenty of them sold.

20 minutes ago, Ozzie Chickadee said:

Hello Everyone, I have a White -1984 - RA65 - Celica - 5 speed - Manual that I bought 22 years ago from a Lady that bought it from her Mother and she bought it brand new off the showroom floor. So it's right to say it's a 'Ladies Car' although some younger guys would not agree! I come from a drag racing background but have treated 'Her' with love and respect and have enjoyed cruising around in her for many years, unlike how I used to drive my LJ Torana!! I have joined the group to find out about her history, I was once told she was one of 100 that came into the country, does anyone know if this is true? Any information would be appreciated. Cheers

No offence but RA65s aren't particularly rare and I can almost 100% guarantee that way more than 100 were sold here, even in 1984 (they only went on sale in October).  Sounds like a nice car though, post up some photos so we can see what you've got.

Duplicate topics moved and merged, please refrain from posting the same question in multiple areas on multiple days

18 hours ago, trentmeyer23 said:

Is it the legit thread on TRD shift knob or one of the knock offs? Any heavier than stock?

Legit, I've had them for years on several cars (this is the second one on the Corolla as the leather starts to wear after a while, one of the old worn ones is on the Camry as a laugh, the badge on the shifter boot is actually from that worn knob as it came unglued).  Can compare the weight to stock if you want, definitely does have some heft to it though

So the preparations for Toyotafest and the 50th Annniversary of the Corolla started a little late (considering the show is next weekend), but I'm not going to have time to get everything done that I'd ideally want to so decided to focus on the small quick wins that don't require too much hassle.

Today was Short Shifter Day, which meant the whole lower dash had to come out (both front sills, glovebox, driver's side under-dash panel, both halves of the centre console, radio surround, storage cube, and the cig-lighter/ashtray/cupholder).  Out with the old stock shifter, in with the new (well, from the old car) DIY short-shifter (pivot-ball moved as per TRD unit with height retained but throw length and angle both reduced, no cut-n-shut dodginess here) along with solid shifter cradle bushes and a couple of M8 washers to space the cradle up (the gear selector ball of the short shifter sits lower so it hits the tunnel unless the cradle is spaced up)

Before

Spacers installed

Finished product (doesn't look shorter I know but that's kinda the point of the design)

Since the dash was out I decided to install my JDM ignition barrel light and footwell lights too, no wiring required as they plug straight in to the same circuit as the dome light (each has a pass-through plug so you piggy-back them all together), although the ignition barrel light ring is a pain to install (you basically have to bend the dash away from the barrel in order to slip the ring in due to the LED housing on one side).  When I get a chance I'll stick the footwell lights up somewhere solid (they're just wedged in place at the moment) but it'll do for now.  By some minor miracle I managed to get everything back together without breaking anything (except a crack in the inside of the dash from bending it out around the ignition) nor did I have any leftover screws (which I believe is actually a first for me).

Whilst all this was happening I was dodging one hell of a thunderstorm, was working in the driveway since the garage was packed with gear from the storage shed but a sudden heavy downpour and clouds that threatened hail made me scramble to clear out enough space to edge the car inside......which meant I had almost no room to open the doors to work in the footwells, so I ended up just reversing back out in to the driveway whenever the rain calmed down.

Over the next few days I'll probably tackle the front speakers and tweeters, as well as maybe the JDM Clean Ace air purifier and Clean Box rubbish bin installs, and if I'm _really_ keen I'll take the front bar off and swap the air-con fans over so I can install the Hella driving-light grille (I've got a spare fan with a chunk cut out of the shroud to clear the back of the driver's side driving light).

3 hours ago, xoom said:

Here's an update to hopefully revive the thread 

Have you sent a copy to Dan/FLYNSX yet?

It lives!

Possibly the battery is dead inside the remote.  You can buy new remotes on eBay but if you haven't got a current working one then it can be hard to get the new one paired up with the security system.  A Toyota dealership can do it but they normally charge an arm and a leg.

Might be able to split the casing open and replace the battery, then buy a spare remote and do the normal program sequence on that one as a spare (since the original will now be wrapped in tape to hold it together)

On 9/9/2016 at 10:18 PM, RollaG said:

Hey guys I'm new here, just wonder anyone know where the fuse for the power door control unit is? coz I have a 92 corolla and I was putting in a power window kit and was using the WR wiring from the power door control unit as 12v source, it worked great except I accidentally short the circuit, and now the WR wire on the door control unit has 0V instead of constant 12V, I checked all the fuses and they all seem good, just want to know where is the fuse for the door control unit? 

Have you checked all the fuses in both the engine bay and the drivers/passengers kick panels?

I've created an official thread here

http://www.toyotafest.org.au/

Toymods car club is proud to present
TOYOTA FEST #13 - 2016 All Toyota Car Show

After last years success of Toyotafest at Castle Hill Toyota, they have invited us back again for 2016!!!
CASTLE HILL TOYOTA
2 Victoria Ave, CASTLE HILL
Rear Carpark (undercover)
Sunday, 2nd October 2016 Long Weekend

DONT FORGET DAYLIGHT SAVINGS!

Castle Hill Toyota have offered the use of their rear dealership carpark again for this years event, after the success of last year, this allows the show to be 90% undercover if it rains, so there are no excuses for not attending!

So how do you enter...?

To be eligible to enter, the vehicle must be Toyota bodied, but any engine and driveline combination is welcome. You DO NOT have to be a member of the Toymods Car Club to enter and we encourage other Toyota clubs to present club displays.

$20 Entry per Vehicle. Spectators/passengers are FREE!!!

All the details of the show are available here http://www.toyotafest.org.au/
This year we also have a limited print Toyotafest #13 T-shirt Available for purchase with entrant registration

Trophy classes and eligibility...

• Historic Original - Best / most original vehicle pre 1985
• Modern Original - Best / most original model vehicle available between 1986-2005
• Best Commercial - Best over all mini truck, ute, van, etc...
• Best Engineered - car best engineered for it’s purpose
• Best Late Model - Best late model vehicle post 2006
• Street Sleeper - Most deceptively high performance car
• Top Engine Bay - Best presented engine bay
• Best Paint & Panel - Best finish and workmanship
• Best Interior - Best finish and workmanship
• Nathan Dean Memorial Trophy - Best Classic Celica 1971-1977
• Entrants Choice - Best overall chosen by other entrants
• Best of Show - Highest overall scoring vehicle

Please note trophy categories are subject to change closer to event date

Entrants are encouraged to arrive from 7.30am with last entrants being accepted into the display at 8.55am for a 9am start. Trophy presentation and raffle will start around 2.30pm. The display will close at 3.00pm with ALL cars remaining until then. In the interest of public safety NO vehicle may be moved or started during the display... NO EXCEPTIONS!
Vehicles being trailered will need to be escorted into the venue for unloading prior to 8am if the vehicle is not mobile.

Again, Toymods, is organising a few 'side' events for the interstate enthusiasts. So to make their trip worthwhile, we will be having a drag night at WSID as well as the standard dinner and social chat after the Show!
More events may come on line so keep a wary eye out for announcements.

ToyotaFest Dinner: Sunday Oct 2nd (after ToyotaFest) - locations / Time to be confirmed

ToyotaFest Drag Night: Wednesday Oct 5th - Location / Time to be confirmed

If you are on Facebook, get onto the Toymods Facebook Page and register your attendance at the event to keep up with all the news as it happens.

9 hours ago, mickoRT40 said:

Thanks for the reply, I have owned three different RT40 Coronas in the past 25 years and I have never seen or heard of an SE RT40. I am kinda certain the SE edition wouldn't have anything different or special compared to a standard RT40 (probably the bucket seats perhaps).

Cheers

Redbook shows that there were 3 different 1970 RT40 trim levels sold here - Base/no-name, SE, and SL (the 1900cc sports version).  Quite likely that the base model was the one that sold the most so it would be the more common one to find on the roads now.  Plus Toyota had a habit in those days of not putting badges on their cars to differentiate the trim levels.

SE was a common Toyota trim spec level in the 70s and 80s, it's not going to be a "special edition" or anything.

11 hours ago, trent083 said:

Almost 100%, no repairs or insurance claims listed on a revs check, have got a majority of the service history and can trace that all the way back to new

 

REVS checks usually only list if the car was written off, stolen, or has encumbrance on it (ie money owing through finance), any insurance repairs that weren't significant enough for the car to be written off won't show up

13 hours ago, Paul Godwin said:

Hi Guys, Looking at purchasing a 2003 Avensis GLX Verso with 227K KM on the clock.  

I just want to confirm I'm right in my thoughts that the Avensis is timing chain, April 2003 compliance?

 

You asked the exact same question less than a week ago and got a definitive answer.  Not sure why you're still uncertain.

If you have basic tools I'd rule out the easiest possibilities first - asusming it's petrol, check spark plugs to see which cylinder isn't firing and swap leads around to see if it changes the cylinder that drops out.  If it's always the same cylinder then it is fuel- or valve-related and likely too expensive to fix yourself, if the miss moves then it is spark-plug/lead/dizzy-cap related, and all 3 are easy and cheap fixes.

10 hours ago, KAA said:

yes sob.sob..yes well you and it had your adventures..try an extra intake of alcohol ease the pain

KAA

Having the almost exact same car still in my driveway helps a lot too...

2 hours ago, Paul Godwin said:

Hey folks, looking at getting an Avensis, what I need to know is if it is timing belt or chain.. Mixed messages.  And if belt would this be 150k replacement. 

If by Avensis you mean the Verso people mover (there's an Avensis sedan in Europe for instance), then it'll be a timing chain.  All Aus-delivered Versos ran AZ engines, first the 2.0L 1AZ, then the 2.4L 2AZ.  The model it replaced (the Spacia) had a timing belt