Hiro
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Posts posted by Hiro
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Got any photos? My guess would be that it's part of the emissions package, so either EGR or secondary air injection ("smog pump")
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16 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:
You have this one.
Then this.
If they are almost identical, why the huge price difference ?
Unless the seller has updated the ad, the "huge" price difference is a whole $4, which doesn't even buy you a coffee these days. And the 0.2mm height difference (which is bugger-all) is probably due to the thickness of the anti-corrosion coating on the rotor hat. For all intents and purposes, the two rotors are the same size.
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Aunger used to be very prevalent at Supercheap before they started going towards their own in-house brands like SCA and Calibre
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Brake rotors are cast iron, they will form surface rust in a matter of hours (just look at your rotors after the car has been parked in the rain, the pad area will be covered in rust) but it won't ever penetrate deep enough to be an issue.
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1 hour ago, stanleywau said:
Thanks for your explanation.
Today just filled the tank with 61L, when the range is 0, and the gauges is empty.
Once the tank is full, the range shows 660kmSo, my tank volume is about 61L + 12L = 73L,
Brayboy post
Brayboy said in the post his SR5 could fill in 67L. 67+12 = 79L very close to 80L .
He said his SR5 could fill in 67L. 67+12 = 79L very close to 80L .
My fuel tank capacity is only 73L, 7L less than normal. could you please give any explanation.
Don't assume that the 12L figure is 100% correct. Fuel gauges are inaccurate, distance-to-empty readouts are pessimistic, not everyone fills up their tank to the same level etc etc. Unless there is a fundamental difference in the tank design for some reason then you should still have an 80L tank, and how much of that you deem as usable (based off your interpretation of the fuel gauge and DtE) is up to you.
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On 9/10/2017 at 9:17 AM, Tony Prodigy said:
According to Toyota Aurion spec list for your car, it seems that it did have traction control, even the ATX.
I'm not sure about this, but I suspect it's always 'activated' with no means to switch it off.
Me personally, why would you opt to turn it off anyway ?
For a relatively powerful front wheel drive V6 car, you'll need all the traction you can get.
The traction control can be switched off by pressing Up, Up, Down Down, Left, Right, Left, Right, B, A and then starting the engine.
I kid. But yes there is a method for turning off the TCS in an Aurion, it's more convoluted than the Konami Code and you have to do it each time you start the car, but it is a well documented thing, take a look in the pinned Aurion FAQ thread and you'll find it
http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/19545-the-tocau-aurion-faq/
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22 hours ago, trentmeyer23 said:
There were and still are Avalons fitted with the 2GR;
They came with a factory defect though where the steering wheel is mounted on the wrong side of the car. Toyota refuse to fix it too.
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On 9/2/2017 at 1:35 PM, Tony Prodigy said:
The Aurion is a much better car than the Avalon, but, there is no reason the avalon cannot do 500,000 kays on the same engine..
That 2GRFE engine is bullet proof.
Avalon has the 1MZFE, not the 2GRFE. And the 2GR is far from bulletproof.
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Trace them as far as you can and see what they connect to.
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1 hour ago, matt36415 said:
Are the trd calipers twin piston? Do you know what the disc size is? Just wondering, I have done the Kluger front swap and an wondering if there is much difference between them and the trd setup
Yes the TRD Aurion front calipers are twin-piston, on a 325mm disc
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Maybe the mechanic was getting confused and was thinking about the actual switching for the lights, ie power-switching rather than ground-switching
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Has there even been a positive earth car since EFI was introduced?
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2 hours ago, Aurion.owner said:
In Middle East, the Camry is V4, and has a bit larger interior, the Aurion is a must V6.
Aurion, Avalon and Lexus LS350 shares both Engine and transmission in Middle East market.
1) I4, not V4
2) ES350, not LS350
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1 hour ago, Kroeger said:
The main area of disappointment the DBA don't offer any improvement over stock in daily driving.
In saying that I have only driven approximately 200kms so far.
The little surface rust is causing ridging on the braking surfaces.
Slotted rotors aren't meant to offer any significant benefit in daily driving, they're a performance product. If you're only driving this thing to work or down to the shops then slotted rotors are complete overkill.
Got any photos to explain what you mean by the ridging? Any rust that forms on the actual friction surface will be wiped away in seconds by the pads at the first stop sign/traffic lights, and anything not on the friction surface is irrelevant
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13 hours ago, Kroeger said:
I expected some kind of treatment on the DBA ones. I WS under the impression that they would be a higher carbon content iron cast.
The paint overspray came off with brake cleaner.
All in all not impressed by the DBA rotors.
Any solution for the grooves not being cleaned by the pads?
The grooves aren't designed to be cleaned by the pads, they are there to help remove gasses generated under repeated heavy braking events and to also act as a knife-edge to clean the pad. The bottom of the groove will never be touched by the pad until the rotors are worn down to that level, at which point they will almost certainly be past their wear limits and need to be replaced.
Personally I'm more concerned with performance than looks. If the DBAs stop the car well, then a little surface rust (which is all it is, if you really wanted to you could scuff it back and then paint those areas with high-temp brake paint yourself, making sure to mask off any area touched by the pads) is nothing to worry about.
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2 hours ago, Kroeger said:
After a week of usage, the DBA rotors have surface rust already.(shocking in terms of the price paid)
The RDA rotors are rust free.
The grooves aren't being constantly cleaned by the pads, thats why they are rusty. Remember that rotors are cast-iron, unless they are specifically treated/painted then they will always rust.
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Had a go at trial-fitting the ST204 pad carrier brackets today in conjunction with the twinpot calipers, unfortunately I've got the 54mm SS AE101 discs rather than the 55mm SS AE111 discs so I couldn't quite get everything to sit snug, looks like I'll either need to machine the pad carrier a couple of mm on the mounting face or get a spacer for the rotor (which I'd prefer not to do as aftermarket rotors are all 55mm).
Brand new seal kit and 4x cylinder pistons from Toyota, grand total of $130 +p/h through Amayama
Showing the 54-to-55mm step on the AE102 hub - disc needs to be 55mm, wheels need to be 54mm.
ST204 caliper bracket on the stock 255mm disc, the rotor just skims the inner face but there's too much room on the other side, wouldn't want a pad falling out...
How the 275mm disc sits inside the carrier - since the rotor doesn't want to sit all the way in on the hub (due to the step) it actually lines up almost perfectly in the carrier, however the rotor can rock around a bit and would be dangerous to attach a wheel in this configuration
No need to trim the factory heat shield, fits perfect
SS pads fit snug in the ST204 carrier and line up millimetre-perfect with the edge of the disc
No machining of the pad carrer where it bolts to the hub either (unlike the SS carrier) - perfect fit
How it looks all assembled - if it wasn't for the mis-matched paint you'd swear it was a factory fitment
Diameter comparison of the AE102 to SS AE101 discsSince the 14" spare wheel will no longer fit over the SS caliper (Superstrut models came with 15" wheels as standard) I decided to get a set of what I believe are facelift ZZE122 15x6" steelies.......that also happened to come with Advan A048 R-comp semi-slicks :D Might just keep those in the back pocket for Toyota Nationals next year...
Even with the bigger wheels, clearance was pretty tight. Back side of the caliper was fine, but the clearance between the face of the rim and the front of the caliper is as about as tight as I'd be comfortable with
And just for laughs I fitted the ST204 pad carrier and an SS pad to the stock AE102 disc.....yeah, these brakes are going to be heaps better :D -
Basically no OEM-fitment brakes short of a Porsche or Ferrari will run dimples or cross-drillings (and then you're starting to look at ceramics anyway).
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12 hours ago, BILLY DRYDEN said:
I need advice about v8 conversion
Might be easier if you post a topic in the relevant car-specific sub-forum, as well as mentioning exactly which V8 and which car you're talking about...
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Step 1 of Project Twinpot - test fit of AE101 SS calipers on to ST202/204 pad carriers complete. SS pad carrier shown in centre for reference. This should allow me to bolt on the SS twinpots whilst still retaining the 275mm rotor diameter. Next step will be a trial fit to the car (hopefully this weekend) to see how much the rotor will need to be spaced or the pad carrier ground down, followed by a clean and paint (and probably a rebuild, no reason not to).
This post also marks my first test of Flickr as an alternate hosting site to Photobucket. Here's hoping it lasts...
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1 hour ago, StevieB said:
Hi Guys, recently purchased a 1996 Camry 2.2 5 speed manual ....... Got it home eventually and cleaned MAF sensor, throttle body and IAC,.
MAF? The 5SFE is MAP-sensored, do you mean that or the IAT (intake air temperature sensor probe which plugs in to the airbox)?
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255 should be the standard size, 275 were the Sportivo brakes but I know some of the catalogues list the 275mm as an option for the ZZE122 for some reason (maybe as part of a towing kit or something? Facelift? Jap vs South African built?)
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1 hour ago, Jim. said:
I sympathise with your motivation to convert you auto to manual. I have owned both auto and manual 4 cylinder Camry wagons. The difference in power and economy is very significant. Also, they are more reliable if not abused.
However, I agree with Trent. The ECU and wiring loom change over would be the deal breaker for me! Big, tedious job, that is for sure.
But manual trans Camry's are becoming hard to find. I found a 93 model with only 125,000klms on the odometer.
The difference isn't as bad for the V6 though, but the manuals for those are even rarer.
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37 minutes ago, matt36415 said:
So your theory... as posted has to be right? Im just looking at what has actually happened. Saying its not possible does not change the reality that my car sits higher. I was a mechanic, the parts are all seated properly... it drives nicely.
The shaft on shocks will extend because of the gas pressure inside. On the old ones the force of this was quite small but on the new shocks the shafts only pushed up slowly but quite a lot of force was needed to push them back in. That is where I thing the extra height comes from - that is my guess, that the car is higher is definitely real.
You said yourself that after 3 days things are basically back to normal - that points directly to parts settling or bedding-in after installation.
Gas-charged shocks apply the same pressure to both sides of the shock piston (due to the valving - the gas is there to pressurise the oil to stop it from foaming or cavitating), so the only force acting to extend the shock is the CSA of the rod (which is the difference in acting area between piston- and ring-side of the cylinder). Take an average 1/2" piston rod, that has a CSA of 0.19in^2. Even with 360psi high-pressure gas-charge, that equates to a force of 32kg. Apply that to a 6kg/mm spring, and you get a ride-height change of 5mm (assuming you had absolutely no gas pressure in the old shock). 5mm ride-height change is not noticeable in anything short of a Formula 1 car - you'll affect the ride height more by filling the petrol tank.
18RC CYLINER HEAD
in General Toyota & Other Car Discussions
Posted
18RCs had heaps of power-strangling emissions stuff (hence the -C, ie California Emissions spec).