Hiro

1 hour ago, GruAncH said:

Can you explain to a noob, is their already one installed you're upgrading or what value other than making the engine bay look awesome does it add?

Most cars have what is known as a "Positive Crankcase Ventilation" or PCV system.  This draws fresh air in from the intake via the breather and circulates it through the crankcase and sump to collect oil vapour and engine blow-by gases (that escape the combustion chamber past the piston rings), carrying it up to the head to stop pressure building up in the sump.  This is then sucked in to the intake under vacuum conditions (ie light/no throttle) by the PCV valve (a one-way valve).

Some people don't like this vapour being burnt in the engine (it can lead to carbon buildup in the intake etc), so instead they install a catch-can in the PCV line to filter out the oil vapour from the air, which can then be emptied manually or drained back to the sump (depending on the style of the can).

Could be the seals in the master cylinder going, does it get better or worse when the car is warm and driving?

11 hours ago, trentmeyer23 said:

Intercoolers are designed to cool the heated, compressed air from a turbocharger or supercharger with ambient air or water

I wonder how much of an effect you'd get if you ran WTA with the water swapped out for refrigerant.....

Then again, the gains would almost certainly be offset by the flow restriction/reduction, even in a Laminova-style WTA.

Cheapest/simplest things first - have you had a wheel balance done?

Could just be a quirk of a make-before-break switch, you can do a similar thing with some headlights where it you balance the stalk between low and high you can get both to turn on at the same time (even if your lows normally turn off when the highs come on)

1 hour ago, Talbit said:

I had a look at the new RAV4 diesel the other day. It looks like it's the same under the bonnet - just a newer look outside.

But the engine is slightly different. It's still the same 2231 mL capacity. The model we have is the 2AD-FTV and the new model is the 2AD-FHV and in my case it's a 2 1/2 year difference in the manufacture date (June 2013 to Jan 2016). It's still a 2AD engine which I guess is the style but the next letters are different. I'm not sure what the other three letter refer to - different generations of the same engine? There must be something different or they wouldn't change the model number. Can we assume that the engine is the same but they've upgraded a few things - like fixing the oil consumption problem? I asked the sales guys and the service manager at two dealers now and not one of them would commit himself to saying categorically that the oil consumption problem has been fixed. Or maybe he doesn't know or doesn't care to know. Anyway, there is no way I'd buy the newer one just because they say it's okay! But it's interesting that this forum has gone very quiet. It seems no one with the newer engine has come onto the forum or started their own post to discuss any oil issues.

Cheers Talbit

http://toyota-club.net/files/faq/13-01-01_faq_ad-engine_eng.htm

From what I can tell, the turbo is different, compression ratio may or may not have changed, changes to injectors and a few other fuel-related bits.  More power/torque, too.

12 minutes ago, fivese7en said:

I think someone needs to change the title to yearly meet haha

So are we on?

Then what would we change the name of the Annual meet too then? :P  Not that it happens much any more

10 hours ago, trentmeyer23 said:

The link below may net you some helpful advice. I personally have not seen this happen. It may be MAF sensor related, but that is purely a guess.

https://www.supraforums.com.au/

2JZGE is MAP not MAF

1 hour ago, R31 said:

Hell of an overhead but I get where you're coming from, cheapest from a local auto parts was 310. So the moral is supply your own parts to the mechanic? 

I've had mechanics charge more for aftermarket parts (not including labour) than I could get Toyota Genuine parts from a dealer for (and a local dealer too, not Sydney or Japan, and Toyota Aus tend to put fairly hefty markups on their parts)

19 hours ago, Sportivo_05 said:

Has anyone else had one of these?

Yes, was a red Series 2 Twincam though

3 hours ago, paul_j said:

at my son has a Holden Commodore and when his coolant was changed (not by me, not familiar with Commodores), apparently it needed some air bleeder valve at the top of the engine to be fiddled with.

Commodores are notorious for getting air-pockets in the head due to the top of the radiator being lower than the top of the engine which necessitates the bleed valve.

If you're ever concerned about this in a car, make sure when you re-fill the coolant to have the front of the car jacked up, and tape a plastic bottle (with the bottom cut off) to the radiator neck to increase the hydraulic head, this will help to drive out any air bubbles in the system (be warned you'll probably end up spilling some coolant when you take the bottle off at the end)

10 hours ago, trentmeyer23 said:

I would love to drive the V8 Genesis Coupe. Not sure if they have delivered any in Australia yet, or if they plan to..

The coupe has never been offered with the V8 anywhere, unless you throw a bucket full of cash at Rhys Millen.

A pity really

You should define which models you are talking about and your location.  In Australia, 1981 could be either a KE55 or a KE70, and 1978 could be a KE30 or KE55, not to mention all the different variants (coupe, wagon, panel-van, 4-door sedan, 2-door sedan, liftback etc etc)

12 hours ago, CONROD said:

Next time you have it flat stick, turn ignition off whilst foot is buried in the carpet still in gear, then turn key back on and be prepared for the biggest back fire as all you are going to achieve is ignition cutout but unburnt fuel will still be drawn in 

Also known as a "key-banger"

1 hour ago, DazzaJay said:

Saw the Jag at today's event. Confirmed its an 89, and its plates are purple on white, slimline, NSW Historic vehicle plates.

So I don't know how he's done it. Unless H rego can be transferred between States, as he WAS previously in a Victorian club.

Historic rego can't be transferred between OWNERS, let alone states.  Either he's done a dodgy (and it should have been picked up by the RTA/RMS if he has), or the details are not as you say they are.  Trust me, I'm on the board for a car club with Historic Registration and the rules are very strict compared to other states (Victoria was notoriously lax until they tightened things up recently)

17 hours ago, DazzaJay said:

Did they update the regulations since last year?

I have last year's regulations, (i think they are, its whatever the Club Secretary gave me) which is showing me 25 years.

 

And the club secretary already has his Jaguar on H plates, and it's an '89.... Then again, he is the club registration officer.

NSW has always been 30 years.  You might be thinking of Vic rules where it is 25 years.

1 hour ago, DazzaJay said:

Well, no specific number, that's a bummer. As it's only about 3 years from becoming a classic vehicle. (And able to be registered on Historic registration)

A '93 Celica won't be elligle for Historic Registration in NSW until 2023, 7 years from now.

15 hours ago, DirtyMexicant said:

hi guys I'm new and would like to join the SYDNEY rolla club I have a 1999 corolla

SRC have not been active on here for over 18 months.

3 hours ago, trentmeyer23 said:

Most forums are fairly quiet these days.

Twincam.org is a slightly different story though due to the exodus of all the old members when it got sold years ago.  Attempts to revive the original with .org.au only lasted a few years though before it started dying again.

Or maybe hit up a local clutch shop and see if they have any of the free plastic aligners you get in a clutch kit these days, can't imagine they'd have much of a need for them

7 minutes ago, Cam93 said:

Alright, thanks Hiro, does the 1MZ run a belt? Could have sworn the service booklet said replace belt at 150k which was for the 1MZ, or I could be wrong haha. Should the chain ever be replaced? Will Toyota inspect it if requested?

Yes the 1MZ ran a timing belt.  Timing chains, all going well, will last the life of the car and only need changing if they are broken or stretched.

22 minutes ago, Cam93 said:

Bought my Camry at 178k, currently at 185k, original owner was a "mechanic" before previous owner, no sticker saying when TB was done, no record in service book of it being done. Judging by the look of it now and the fraying on one edge, is it bad enough that I should ask for it to be changed when I get it serviced in the next couple weeks or is it okay and just wait until 200k?

(Notice the fraying on the belt around the pulley also)

That's not your timing belt - the 2AZ runs a timing chain.  That is just the accessories/serpentine belt.  A hell of a lot easier and cheaper to replace than a timing belt, might as well change it just for peace of mind.

Firing order should be 1-3-4-2, (1 being closest to the timing belt end), check to see if there are any markings on the dizzy to say which is which.

How big is the plastic cover on the lens?  Standard remedy for cloudy plastic is a light application of toothpase

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&title=Mounting-big-driving-lights-Part-1&A=112903

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_112904/article.html

Turns out resonance and vibration on nudge bars and driving lights is a common issue on any car