Hiro

Obviously April has only just begun, but any plans for this month's EOMM? Toymods Dyno Day is on the 29th, so maybe join in with that? Or if it's just a normal Saturday night then I might make an appearance and crash at my brother's place

The whole "hole is 2-3mm bigger than the bolt, the world is going to end" malarkey is a right laugh. Standard industry-wide (I'm talking all industry here, from cars to mining to construction) clearance hole for a bolt is generally ~2mm larger in diameter, so an M10 bolt goes into a 12mm hole, M16 into an 18mm hole, M24 into a 26mm hole etc and so on. Bolts generate clamping force and are strong in tensile loading, they are not designed to have shear loads placed on them (especially not on the threads), thus the holes have to be oversize, and why torque values are important (because the torque value is what generates the clamping force, which in turn generates the frictional force which resists shear loadings.

What could be a good avenue to go down is a mobile bolt removal guy... they do it all day everyday and are usually top blokes .. can cost a little bit more than a set of decent easy outs but good for peace of mind...

^This. Try and find one that the dealerships use too, since you can often organise to catch them on the way back from another job (as they're always out and about fixing up f*ckups from apprentices) and thus avoid the call-out fee...

Still got this guys, really keen to get rid of this in the next couple of weeks otherwise it's going to the wreckers

Does that mean Toyota Charge $50 just to type in the code

Considering it isn't always the last 3 numbers of the VIN (and it is user-changeable, too), they generally have to do more than just "type in the code"

That listing is flawed.

That's a Gen6 ACV40R. It will be a 2.4L Manual, the Gen6 did not get a V6 option.

Actually, if you look at the last photo you'll see it's auto anyway....

Wouldn't be the first time that a dealership has stuffed up a Carsales ad, I see them all the time where they are listed as the wrong model or even the rego doesn't correspond with the photos (ie it's a different car.....)

Any interstaters booked accommodation yet? Or are we all waiting for the big update?

Who has time too search for such an old thread?

Trolls and/or n00bs

If you want a bit of a boost you can keep the standard airbox but remove the snorkel and resonator and run a bit of flexible pipe through the hole in the guard to the airbox

I certainly hope that's a typo, 7As need 2" minimum, if not 2 1/4".

As for the intake, either drop a K&N panel filter into the stock airbox, or get a pipe made up to house a pod filter behind the front bumper (there's a hole just behind and underneath the battery). Since you've got a Levin you've probably got the foglights, in which case you might be able to remove the cover next to the light to act as a duct.

Here's what the setup would look like (note it's an AE102, but they share essentially the same chassis as the 112s)

The pod is circled in red.

OBDII Soft Flash ECU Re-Map Performance DOES NOTHING!!

HALTEC and MOTEC or nothing!

Rubbish! There is an Australian company that makes one of, if not the most powerful ECU's on the market...Much better customer service and support too. However that is not the discussion...

Not sure if this was a trolling/sarcastic line, but both Haltech and MoTec _are_ Australian.....

And for the young-uns amongst us, that road is actually the old Pacific Highway, traditionally called the Buladelah Bends (they've bypassed it now fortunately, used to be one of the major bottle-necks heading north for holidays).

Hi Jacob12,It always makes me laugh to hear people talk about how every thing on the Aurion is set up for overseas.For Christ sake the car is Australian,it was designed in AUST, (ALTONA VIC ),it was made in AUST.

You do realise that ~2/3rds of the Camrys and Aurions made at Altona are LHD and exported overseas, mostly to the Middle East......

So maybe my mechanic was right after all haha.

Possibly, but Toyota always brag on about how the cars sold here are tuned for Australian conditions, so I'd be very surprised if they went to that extent but forgot to set the car up for RHD from the factory....

Hi Jacob12,It always makes me laugh to hear people talk about how every thing on the Aurion is set up for overseas.For Christ sake the car is Australian,it was designed in AUST, (ALTONA VIC ),it was made in AUST.

You do realise that ~2/3rds of the Camrys and Aurions made at Altona are LHD and exported overseas, mostly to the Middle East......

Oooh, shiny...

Beginning of bonus-money spending, will be doing the dumps in the next few weeks, hopefully in time for dyno day (if not, then drag night in August)

hey, does this new 205kw limit apply for nsw p platers too?

No, NSW P-platers run on a different system.

Just searched ToyoDIY:

04152-YZZA1 - no results

04152‑31090 - MANY results

Looks like you have found a non-genuine part ... which I personally wouldn't risk.

This is one of the times when ToyoDIY falls down. 04125-YZZA1 is indeed a genuine Toyota part number and is the replacement for the 04152-31090. ToyoDIY isn't always up to date with superceded numbers, nor does it always list every single regional option/difference. A quick google search will come up with tonnes of references to YZZA1s (and other Toyota filters with similar part numbers).

Buy a genuine Toyota oil filter removal tool, and never have to worry about stuck oil filters or bruised knuckles again. Heaps better than any strap, ratchet or claw-type tool you can get from Supercrap/Repco etc.

Wow pillarless van.. Why are some of the cabs LHD ?

China drive on the right hand side of the road (and thus have LHD cars). Hong Kong, Taiwan and Macau are all Chinese territories, although Hong Kong is former British Empire and drives on the left (RHD) (same with Macau, except it was Portuguese) thus has a mixture of LHD and RHD cars on the road since they only became part of China in the late '90s. Even though Taiwan is a former Japanese colony, they became a Chinese territory back in the 40s and swapped sides then, so the cars are completely LHD now.

Absolutely love it! Should source some retractable side view mirrors :)

http://www.ebay.com....#ht_2645wt_1396

He already has those :P

^{Please, let's not repeat that saga again. The 2012 Camry has fixed headrests, okay? Man, I am getting so angry. If you don't believe me, just go down to a Toyota dealership and see for yourself. Aaaarrgh!!! I am seriously going to go mental soon!!! I hereby pledge and declare all my assets and undertakings that the 2012 Camry has fixed rear headrests. Come and sue me if I am wrong!! Yaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I mean, like, this is driving me crazy!!}

It was a joke, as in you'd have to pay all that money to get a custom-built car just to get adjustable headrests.

The only O2 sensor is on the engine pipe, if you've still got stock headers then it'll be just after the exhaust manifold-engine pipe flange and the heat shield - if you look down into your engine bay you'll see the sensor and the wiring sticking out towards the radiator, the wiring should run up towards the radiator fan. Be careful taking it off as you don't want to round the nuts off, like any exhaust component it will have gone through a lot of heat cycles so be wary of snapping the studs too. If they are too tight then try heating the nuts up with a butane torch or the like, and use a breaker bar for extra leverage.

And 2000rpm @ 80km/h sounds a little low if anything, the manuals are geared to be doing ~3200rpm @ 110km/h, but then again the autos could be geared a little taller.

This is racking up to be one expensive Camry!

That's the price you pay for adjustable headrests...

Question to you Hiro.

Do you know which would be the symptoms of a faulty temp sensor in the gas mileage or at the moment of starting cold / hot? Could the sensor affect it?

Cheers

AB

Which temp sensor? Intake air or coolant? The intake air-temp sensor is purely used to fine-tune the fuel-injection, as the density of air changes with it's temperature - however the full range of the sensor only accounts for a relatively small change in density, so even a faulty sensor won't stuff things up too much (and certainly wouldn't affect starting). Coolant temp sensor on the other hand will determine whether the engine is cold or hot which can make a big difference in starting - if the sensor is faulty and saying that the engine is warm then the ECU and idle-up won't go into cold-start maps and the engine will quite likely struggle to start. If the sensor is stuck in a cold reading then the ECU will constantly think that the engine is cold and add extra fuel (as it does on cold-start) which can significantly increase fuel consumption - think of it as a choke on an old carbie car; it helps starting when cold but makes the car run rich when warm, chewing through fuel. You can get similar problems with a thermostat that is stuck open, although in saying that my thermostat was on its way out for quite a while (and the engine would never get up to temperature unless it was idling in traffic) and my fuel consumption was barely effected (6.5-6.7L/100km on the roadtrip up to Brisbane for last year's TOCAU annual meet)

1990 with a 3SFE?? I'm guessing it's an import because all Australian ST184s had the 2.2L 5SFE