helijohn

Thanks all. Now then - where is the Rav4 section??

I can't imagine what I'd do without an odometer - it is so important. When I get bored on a long trip I often check how accurate it is by the marker posts on motorways. :D :D

Going to the box would also be less hassle. Is it a red box do you know under the cig lighter? I was thinking of using a probe test light and operating the lock switch. I reckon that would tell me which is live but the earth will be a struggle. I just bought a Haynes manual. They used to be good back in the day but now they are not so good. I'll take a look at the wiring diagrams. I only just got the car so I am tied up with a ton of jobs.

Thanks for the help. It is not a coded key and I had a spare cut. Nice cheap result!!!

Yes there is. Thanks. I was wondering about using that. It's a big harness connection. Can you suggest how I wire up to the right wires and I assume I need to run a pair of wires from there through the door grommet to the CL unit.

Please tell me that someone has fitted a remote central locking kit to an early Rav 4 and can guide me about it. I have central locking on my '96 Rav 4.1. I have this kit to fit. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301102934048?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_sacat%3D0%26_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3D301102934048%26_rdc%3D1 Normally I use a solenoid actuator but there is no room in the door. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290349164159?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 What do I do please?

I agree. My '96 runs 10mph fast at 70mph. In other words when it says 70 I am doing 60. This is crazy. It means oil changes and so on come up early. I can go up a few tyre sizes to compensate and think I have got it worked out what size to go to next to bring the discrepancy down to a reasonable level.

I can't speak for later models but I had a 1998 that was converted to LPG. Ran a treat.

Now I do recommend getting your key cut to code, not just copied which transfers all the wear and tear onto the new key. Cutting to code also helps your locks work smoother and last longer. Do you mean by using the lock number? Funny thing is I had the driver door lock in pieces the other day. I want to fit a remote central locking unit and use a solenoid. I meant to jot down the number on the barrel but forgot. I'd had to force off the end cap on the barrel to get into the tumblers as two had broken and were sticking in the shut position. It is only peened over and was easily re-peened. I was spending 10 mins jiggling the key just to open up. The door lock now works fine. It is such and old motor is it worth the trouble of being cut to code?? If I could I'd convert to push button start.

Thanks. Here in the UK chipping or coding came in 1996. There is no immobiliser light flashing. No remote control and it is a very small rubber head which is why I thought it might not be chipped. It's moulded rubber like plastic and I can't lift it to see if there is a dot, G or H. I'll go to a keyman and see what he says. Thanks for the advice. It is looking like it possibly isn't coded.

My Rav4 is an import. Built in 1996 is there any way I can tell if it has a coded key. Do they do coded keys for their home market??

Hello. Dare I say it, maybe I am the odd man out being in England. I am looking for a good resource forum for early Rav4s (4.1). You were recommended by an Australian friend of mine so here I am. John