Pippy

So, does it even fit some of you ask?

it sure does look like it fits to me! :)

For those interested in the technical development of this plennum, it is the same volume as the stock plennum. As this might already seem evident to majority of people, this designed and made for forced induction in mind, hence the selectively shorter runners. With the help of ol mate Winterbone et al, and some headache maths, we're rather confident this would definitely perform better than the stock plastic plennum.

for those interested... Winterbone and Pearson wrote this wonderful book.

All welded up!

The throttle body port on the intake manifold is matched to the enlarged throttle body.

That's the first stage of the whole project done! :)

lol, get it right guys! Not a 'few' guys, rather TWO guys :D

still waiting to see if u can get ur puppy down into the 12's :whistling: :whistling: :whistling:

Give me a break bill, i only just started! :) but yes, would be nice if i can get anywhere near 12s.

mate if its not pulling 12's im gonna be seriously disappointed in Purcell Performances workmanship ...... at which point you then come and speak to us at kebab performance and we'll sort it out for u :whistling: :D :P

Hehe, Sure! When we're done we'll also lay down the $$$ value spent on the project and see which one has a bigger bang for buck, or the $$ value per second faster, then i think it'll be a fair comparison. ;)

I will reserve my judgement till i actually see it running in a car. So what ever happened to the abandoned turbo 1ZZ project from PP??

The abandoned turbo 1zz is exactly that, abandoned. :)

is this a making of a plenum?

It sure is.

The new photos should make a bit more sense to people that were not sure about what they're looking at.

Here is the mock up of the plennum. We used 5" donuts for the curves.

From another angle, still showing the 'trumpets'

Now trimmed and side plates welded in

Another angle...

arrrgh!! the use of that router makes me cringe haha. looks like a very clean job, i take it you got the alloy laser cut elsewhere? do you guys have a lot of workshop experience? personally i would have TIG welded it together but only because i love the look of a nice clean perfect weld LOL very nice but!! post more pictures up as you make more!!

by lookin at it im guessing you used a stick welder but do correct me if im wrong!!

Greg, you need to clean up your post, if you use quote reply and not clean up the photos, the size of the thread is gonna get out of hand!!

To answer some or questions:

-What?! What's wrong with a router? it is much quicker than strapping it down on a mill and if you have worked with alloy, it is as soft and as easy to work with as wood.

- Yes, the alloy was laser cut elsewhere.

- Workshop experience? Would a shed count as a workshop? DIY all the way buddy. :)

- I don't know where you're looking to get the idea that the alloy was stick welded (unless by stick you mean a stick of tungsten and plenty of argon gas) and you're right you would have it TIG welded as we have done right there.

still waiting to see if u can get ur puppy down into the 12's :whistling: :whistling: :whistling:

Give me a break bill, i only just started! :) but yes, would be nice if i can get anywhere near 12s.

are we going to see quads on this, or is it just a custom plenum, cause i want trumpets

Quads would be cool, but i don't think i'd try it with this project. Maybe when I run out of things to do hey. :) Brilliant idea tho. As rollamods have suggested, the 20V quads line up.

Well, I must say, having been on this forum for around 5 years, the number of topics covered has not really increased at all. It still revolves around CAI and CES Exhausts. (oops, did I mention the taboo word?)

Here is what happens when you have a couple of fairly knowledgeable blokes and equip them with a shed, some backyard tools, a spare motor and some metal!

The motor of choice here for those of you not used to seeing it out in its naked state, is the 1ZZ-FE, I personally think it’s a under rated motor, as it is cheap to get and can still be fun while remaining predictable and economical!

I’ll let the photos do most of the talking and I’m sure the ‘quiet’ oldies would know where we’re heading with this, as for the chirpy NOOBS out there fire your questions here and who knows, you might learn something a bit more than just CAI

Laser cut 10mm alloy from our own CAD drawings

First stage: 1.75" runners with custom die pressed ends to meet oval shape at the ports

Notice the runners are made to match the angle of the ports so they are straight direct entry

Flat flange is a bit boring and for the sake of simplicity, backyard tools were used to create a fillet on the ports with a 12mm radius. Yes, it is a wood router.

In action...

end result:

Needs a bit of cleaning up and a polish to get it all nice a smooth... but I think that's enough for today!

I will keep everyone posted as we make some progress! :)

they didn't do much unless you put them in the rear engine mount aswell

Bill has it in the rear mount if i read correctly, and IMO the rear mounts are the only one you'd need to do.

The difference with stiffer mounts is definitely noticable in many ways. However my approach is not by using the inserts, as i have re-cast the whole mount with Shore 75 polyurethane.

From what i have noticed is...

- More direct response and less 'laughing' from the engine

- Not a noticable change in cabin vibrations (from my application)

- More direct shifting, and Shore 75 seems to still give SLIGHT movement to take up the aggressive knocks on hard shifts

- Overall more solid drive in terms of power delivery

- Reduction in exhaust movement and vibrations (Great for those with rattley CES exhaust! :P even more so if you use polyurethane exhaust hangers)

Here is a picture of my rear engine mount.

I chose to cast my own mounts with Shore 75 polyurethane (for those of you that are not familiar, 'Shore' is the rating used for polyurethane hardness/stiffness) is because the slabs of machined polythurethane available from SuperPro etc are usually around Shore 90, which is very stiff for engine mounts, as with the application used with the C-ONE solid engine mounts (Except they used rubber). Its fine if you're building a track car, and not expecting a lot of bumps while driving.

Double thumbs up from me in terms of the inserts if you don't want the hassle of recasting. :)

Good thread Bill, need to see more people on this forum with some more serious and sensible mods (rather than this constant b!tching about CAI and CES)

Cheers.

Pippy.

I didn't realise Xoom was running a 1.5way, always thought it was a helical. Fill me in Bill.

I'm using the toyota helical, and i reckon is kicks some serious a$$!!

I wouldn't recommend going the TRD unit, as its is 1.5way, and there are maintenace required for cluctched type LSD unless you're willing to fork out periodically for a rebuild. Driving would be quit different too, it will not be as forgiving as the helical option, also, the 1.5way would require you to run a different oil (which isn't a problem when the box is rebuilt as they have to boil parts anyway.

TRD made some helical LSD, but never for the C-series boxes, they only made mechnical 1.5way. the C series LSD are shared across MOST C-series boxes. i.e. a C160 LSD would fit in a C60/62 or C52/54.

LSD isn't something you 'TRY' its something that you want or you don't. If you ever felt frustrated charging into a corner and not be able to pull yourself out of it without smoking up your SINGLE tyre, then you want an LSD. Personally its too exy to become a mod that you 'try'

all in all, it transforms the car completely.

haha!

hey big man! damn! didn't see you... :P hope i wasn't doing anything bad... haha

when looking at solid filled engine mounts, you need to see what hardness the polyurethane is.

often many brands use hard rubber rather than polyurethane too.

Shore 90 or 75 is the common choice with aftermarket engine mounts, made really for race cars. In many cases people had to drill holes in the 'racing' solid filled engine mounts to provide more vibration absorbtion. Alternatively, you can do what we did and cast your own by using a softer Shore 60 or 45.

I have used it for over 10,000kms it is not as 'hard' as people think.

- I have not killed my gearbox yet

- My steering doesn't shake under any load situation

- I get very direct response under load, and way less jiggle

Anyway, hope this info helps.

That looks familiar!! :D its like how i've done it all my doors :)

I've also done it in the boot under the spare up under the rear seats and also the rear hatch.

I must say tho... its heavy but HOW MUCH DIFFERENCE DOES IT MAKE?! :D

i would definitely recommend the speaker kits too!! they are awesome!!

ok thanks mate.. was looking at the snowflake performance one (i think thats the name of it??)

just after the real basic setup that sprays once it builds upto a certain pressure..

also what tank are you using there, it seems to fit pretty nicely?

haha!

Snow Performance, not snowflake... :P

my advise would to be install the injection nozzle AFTER the blower... if i had the ability to do it without hurting the cast for the TRD charger i'd definitely put the W/I after the blower (or possibily before AND after).

the tank i am using is a washer bottle out of a 92 celica (i think) it does fit nicely and has nice volume... approx 4L

I'm sure I can put a cost on it if I take a week to think about it and add up what it SHOULD have cost :P

In reality he got out cheaply ;)

I can't imagine how much Thomas Bantalgar's services would have been priced at. Is there anything that guy 'can't' do?

haha!

yes i definitely agree i got out of it cheaply... :P all the efforts put in i can't even being to imagine a 'workshop' price... (and choose not to) not to mention the 'quality' you'd get from 'workshops'...

as for is there anything that Wilson (Thomas Bantalgar) can't do... well... if it can't be done with the combination of a lathe, mill, tig welder and 2 IT nerds clicking away on AutoCAD and Solidworks, then he can't do it... :P

well done mate! looks great and must drive like a dream :D

got a few questions for you.. i spoke to someone about the car and you're using the 2zz injectors? whould it be worth upgrading the fuel pump aswell for a set up like this or similar?? (mwr have the 190l/h on sale)

also where did you get the parts for the water/meth kit if you dont mind me asking?

Yeah, i am running 2zz injectors... (mmm... should put that in the mod list...) and personally i don't think its worth upgrading the fuel pump for 2zz injectors, if you are going for something bigger then definitely.

The water injection kit was bought from the US, there was a sale on ebay but i don't think they're there anymore tho. :(

try Snow Performance, they have the identical pump and with other fancy bits at a great price compared to aquamist.

hehe! nice nice!!

i can remember when i got totally smashed by one of these a couple years back... :P and i still exercise caution when i pull up next to N14s... coz you just can't judge when they're gonna bounce off the line and leave you for dead!!

looking forward to all ya goodies!! :) sweet ride!!

Congrats on a nice sounding rolla, I played the youtube clip just to listen to it.

What does the modification to the throttle body do exactly?

Whitestivo

basically reduces the bottle neck for the intake. :) not a huge improvement, but just not a very common mod. bit more popular in the US.

Just imagine comparing 2 pipes... one's straight and one with a smaller section in the middle... the straight would more than likely flow better with less turbulence. :)

You have Thomas Bangalter from Daft Punk working for Purcell Performance now?! Holy crap, those brothers are epic.

HAHA!! that's a good one... :D

He calls himself wilson, from Home Improvements! the one we never see his full face... but Thomas Bangalter is just fine!!

supercharged with water injection??....what are you trying to do??....make a Cappuccino??

i know the reasons for using water injection.....your making too much boost and REALLY heating up the charge air.i(i bet without it the engine rattles its head off like a bunch of rocks in a cement mixer) why not try underdriving the supercharger instead of overdriving it??.. your pistons/conrods/engine bearings will like you for not trying to hammer them into the road via the sump.

superchargers have been around since early last century. most now live in top fuel dragsters...some in older 2 stroke detroit diesel engines (otherwise known as a screamin jimmy) while others are still used in modern performance engines.

hold on.....i bet a factory aurion v6 doesn't use water injection on their "factory supercharger"

just a few thoughts and ideas....iif you don't like them...well thats just too bad...we are all entitled to our opinions and some of us actually vent them constructively

cheers

One does not simply 'townace' into Pippy's thread.

haha! man you're a crack up!! thanks for the support!! :P love ya comments...

as for mr townace, i really don't know what to respond... everyone has their views i guess... :P but seriously, first hand experience and a year of research into this particular setup you'd find that i just might know a bit more about it than most.

and yes, i do bet that a factory aurion v6 doesn't use water injection, but i'm sure the supercharged V6 would benefit from it from a tuning perspective, however water injection would not be implemented in a production car for obvious reason. Not every one is willing to do a 50/50 mix and remember to top up every couple of weeks.

thanks for you thoughts and ideas, its not that i don't like them, but rather i struggle to find any justification or relevance into what you have stated. :)

peace.

Hey man, nice rolla, id definately agree with the whole dyno queen thing, looks like an amazing car to be driven on the street.

What 1/4 mile times are you expecting? Mid 14's me thinks... with lots of torque and an LSD.

to be honest... i'm not expecting too much hey... the rubber i've got isn't really crash hot at sticking under stress... :P i'd be happy with mid low 14s... only one way to find out i guess! would have to head out sometime!! :)

Hello boys and girls!

I have finally put in some effort in putting together a post on my car... :P

I've had the TRD Superchager for about 9500kms now and has been going strong and hasn't skipped a beat. With the help of rollamods, the car has been a total ar$e kicking daily driver!! :)

Some might think... yeah... its only a Corolla, but have a look for yourself the amount of effort and detail put into this car, you would agree if i said... its NOT just a corolla... :)

How many Corolla (1zz or 2zz) that has a JDM C60 LSD gearbox? Supercharged with Water injection? and all other goodies... :P

Jelous?? well... i'm hope you are... (maybe not you bill) i've broken my piggy bank and nearly my back in putting her together!! too much R&D and trial&error.

Here it is!!

http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...showtopic=15425

Cheers.

OK!!! Pretty much most of the mods i have covered with photos now... :)

i have reached the limits of the IMG tags... so i have just linked most of the photos.

while on the subject of sourcing the kit.. im off to europe soon and might get a stop off in hong kong anyone know if i could get a kit in anyone of these countries..

the TRD Supercharger kit for the 1ZZ-FE is a TRD USA kit. Hence you would struggle trying to find it in europe or HK, let alone from the US. Production for theses kits stopped over a year ago, it would be super rare for you to find one new or even 2nd hand. There were some left from General Motors about a year ago, as the 'Vibe' uses 1ZZ-FE and GM offered the performance kit.

As far as Boost goes, regardless if you are using a Blitz, Greddy, or TRD kit, the concept of the supercharger is the same. The amount of boost is relative to how fast you are spinning the pulley, hence the higher you rev the more boost you get.

In the case of Blitz SC kits, the Low, Med and Hi settings, High is simply a setting where the boost isn't being restricted. The fact that is its clutched, it doesn't have too much to do with boost control, as when run on the low setting the extra boost generated is simply being circulated with similar mech as the boost control actuator does on a turbo. The clutched mech is simply there for more efficient cruising (no load) and better idle control. Ultimately the linear boost generated would still be consistant, peaking with the peak rpm of motor.

If the clutch was used for boost control, it would be like saying you use your cltuch for speed control when driving.

My supercharger can generate around 8.5 - 9psi on redline (7000rpm), on the stock pulley. however, it is required to control the boost circulation actuator, as the stock actuator is set to run around 7.5psi then the rest is circulated. The Eaton M45 can generated up to 12psi with no problem, however it does heat up incredibly fast.

Supercharger boost and Turbocharger boost can not be treated equally (help me on explaining this bill) as the boost from a superchager is consistantly growing, peaking at max rpm of the motor. As for turbo, the boost can come on full way before the motor even reaches half of its revs.

Now there are 2 of us... hehehe!

Nah man, as far as i know there are 3 around, and 2 are in Brisbane including myself! :)