nushydude

I'm only at 107k with my 2007 AT-X. I've only done 12k since buying it 1.5 years ago.

The car has done about 105000km.

Transmission should have been checked at the 90000km service. But I don't know for sure if they replaced the fluid. 

Hi,

I've noticed that on rainy days if I press the brakes a bit harder, the wheels would lock which causes the car to drag forward along the road. 

Yesterday I checked this in dry conditions and while I was only doing 40kmph, I still feel the wheels would lock. 

I never saw an ABS warning light come on. 

How should I proceed to resolve this? BTW, I have a 2007 Aurion ATX.

Edit:

Today I received a Check Engine warning and my OBDII sensor gave the P0500 error code. According to this, it could cause ABS to not function. https://www.obd-codes.com/p0500 Maybe this is the reason? 

Cheers

3 minutes ago, campbeam said:

Suggest that you do a search on eBay for OBD2 scanner. I think that I bought this one. 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OBD2-EOBD-CAR-FAULT-CODE-READER-SCANNER-DIAGNOSTIC-AUTO-ENGINE-SCAN-TOOL-/322380609595?hash=item4b0f61b83b:g:T0sAAOSwA3dYbgDp

The connector for the Aurion is under the dash on the right hand side of the steering wheel. 

Great, I will check it out. Thanks. 

Alright then. 

Out of curiosity, how much does one of these ECU scanners cost for the 2007 Aurion? Is the interface standardised (between series, manufacturer etc.) so that these scanners are compatible between multiple models? Or if you buy a scanner, it will only work with one specific model? 

An update on the situation. 

Unplugging the battery did reset the warning, and it never came on afterwards. I went for a ride for about 15 minute. Stopped twice on the way, to inflate the tyres. Everything is good for now. 

What do you guys recommend? I don't think anyone can do anything without the warning light on anymore right? So I have to wait for it to come on, right? I hope it won't come back on. 

3 minutes ago, trentmeyer23 said:

Did you clean the engine bay?

Did you go anywhere near or focus water towards the wheel speed sensors? 

If the car was running fine until you washed it, I doubt that it would be a coincidence that this started occurring afterwards.

i did not clean the engine bay. I just washed the body and was planning to clean up the interior after reversing into the carport. Except for checking for the engine oil level, I had no plans to touch the engine bay. The engine oil level is fine btw. I had the car serviced couple of months ago as well. 

I did not focus water on the tyres because it would splash everywhere. I only poured water with no pressure and simply brushed the outer (visible) side of the tyres. 

The car was running fine until this incident, except for the VVT-I house burst in January. We went on a trip and came back yesterday evening. No dramas during the entire journey. So sad that I didn't notice if the warning lights were on when I took the car out of the carport before washing. However if they came on, I think I would have noticed, but I cannot be certain.

When the malfunction indicator lamp (is this the same as check engine light everyone keeps saying?) comes up erroneously, does it go away automatically if it detects the error is no longer there or do we have to reset it. I have the battery disconnected at the moment to try and reset the warning. I don't know if it is the right thing to do.

Hi, 

Today I decided to bathe my 2007 Aurion AT-X in the morning and took it out the carport and washed. I didn't do anything special. Just hose, then two buckets, then hose off and wipe with micro fibre. Cleaned the wheels with a brush. Pretty standard. 

When I tried to reverse it back into the carport, I felt a serious lack of power in the engine. I had to race the engine to 3000RPM to get it moving. Mind you, there is about a 10-15 degree upward slope into the carport, but still... Somehow I managed to get it into the carport. 

I noticed the malfunction indicator lamp (as per the manual and the attachment) was on. I stopped the engine and waited a bit and started the engine again. It came on, but it didn't go off like it should. So I shut it off.

After a bit, I checked the engine oil level and it was all good. 

I waited a bit longer and then started again. Same thing. This time, I let it idle for a few minutes and it never went off. I took it out the carport and drove for about 10 meters and then the VSC light and the traction control warning lights came on, without the malfunction light going off.

Any thoughts what could be the problem?

Thanks @campbeam. A lot of vital information. 

I ordered the following items.

Nulon Long Life Engine Oil 5w30 6 litre x2 (SCA)
Nulon Brake Oil DOT3 500ml x2 (SCA)
Oil Filter x2 (EBAY) - as per your link
Air Filter x1 (EBAY) - as per your link

I will have to check with Toyota whether they replaced the spark plugs (is there any way to tell if they are new by inspection?) and the coolant. 

I also wonder if the brake pads have worn out. When I hit the brakes lightly, it sometimes squeaks. It doesn't happen if I brake harder though. They probably just need some adjustments. Any thoughts?

SuperCheap also has a 20% off deal just for today. So I will be picking the cheapest.

14 hours ago, campbeam said:

I recall that in a previous post, you mentioned about saving for a house deposit. Therefore, focus upon what items you are going to need for the next service or short term.

I have just bought Nulon brand DOT3 brake fluid on a multi-buy special at Supercheap.

Last purchases of full synthetic engine oil [10W-30 or 10W-40] have been from SuperCheap and AutoBarn. One special was 45% saving and a limit of 2 per customer.

Check any maintenance records for when your coolant was last changed.

I use eBay for other parts that can be easily posted.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Set-Fit-For-Toyota-Genuine-OEM-Oil-Petrol-Filter-04152-YZZA1-Pack-Kit-/182355687844?hash=item2a753ef9a4:g:ArEAAOSwA3dYLA20

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/191782344170?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/131689111676?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

Yes, I'm saving for a house, but it will take a couple of more years before we have all the money for the deposit because my income is not very high and my wife isn't working. 

Is the Nulon Long Life 5w30 6 litre can sufficient for a complete fill? If I am replacing the oil filter (which I am), I would need 6.1 litres. Of course I should buy extra to keep in handy for loss of oil with engine usage. What would you do in my case? 
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Nulon-Full-Synthetic-Long-Life-Engine-Oil-5W-30-6-Litre/343508

When you replace brake fluid, how much brake fluid do you need for a complete fill? What super cheap has is the  500ml can. http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Nulon-Brake-Fluid-DOT-3-500mL/360078

The link you gave for the filter, is it the full  filter? Why does it say "Set Fit" For Toyota Genuine OEM Oil Petrol Filter 04152-YZZA1 "Pack Kit"?

I am unsure when the coolant was replaced. I tried contacting Camberwell Toyota for the service record (90,000km one which was performed at the time of purchase) but said the service department is closed today. In the service log book, it says only to replace the coolant if it is found to be bad, so it is almost a certain that they didn't replace it. Isn't the coolant good enough for 160000km? That's what is written under the bonnet. However, the car is almost 10 years old, so it might be about time I replaced it. 

They should have replaced the spark plugs at that service as well. It is always better to have few handy? Pretty expensive, aren't they? 

Does the air filter you linked fit model 2007 as well? It says specifically it is for 2006 model. 

18 hours ago, campbeam said:

$680 - you must have been charged at desperation rates.

Suggest that you go back and read thoroughly all of the posts to your thread and the attachment below that I previously posted. Did you specifically request the front oil cooler hoses to be replaced [at your expense]. Otherwise, if it is leaking then it is covered by Toyota Australia at least up to 10 years after the build date.

Estimated time to replace the rubber hose mid-section of the VVT-i line is approx. 1.5 hours. Angled long nose pliers are utilised to remove the spring clips on the hose. However, it is so much easier to fully remove the line then replace the rubber hose but it is more time consuming.

toyota_oilhose_dealer notice.pdf

Didn't you say the VVT-I line replacement would cost me $500-600? They quoted $520 for it. The extra charge is for the oil cooler hose replace with the full metal one and 4 litres of Castrol Magnatec 5W30 engine oil. I asked them to replace the oil cooler hose. They wouldn't do it free of charge if there was no damage sadly. 

16 hours ago, trentmeyer23 said:

It actually has nothing to do with your floor.

Dipsticks do not reach the bottom of the sump. There are normally a few litres of oil once there is no oil on the dipstick.

Many dipsticks do not even take the reading from the deepest part of the sump where the oil pickup is located.

I see. My bad. I'm a newbie when it comes to car mechanics :D

14 hours ago, campbeam said:

Your engine should be fine because it still had enough oil to be pressured out of the pinhole in the rubber hose and drip onto your garage floor. Different story if your engine was starved of oil.

Makes sense. 

Hi guys, 

The next service for my 2007 Aurion AT-X is coming up in a month and I am planning to buy parts for it (and for the future) at the autobarn 20% off sale this weekend. The service is going to be a general service, but if you are wondering, the last service I did was the 90,000km major service when I bought the car. I included it as a package when I bought the car from Camberwell Toyota. (The previous owner had not done the 90,000km service).

With your advise, I have decided to just do a general service from here after. I will be getting it done from a mobile mechanic. 

What should I buy? Couple of Nulon Long Life 5w30 6 litre cans? 

Cheers

I got the car back on Wednesday afternoon, but couldn't update the thread.

They charged me $680 for the whole thing. I got the front oil cooler hose replaced with the metal pipe as well. A large portion of it is for the labour. Sadly, the replacement VVT-I hose still has a rubber mid section, albeit the improved version. They said that's all they have. *sigh*

They had to top up engine oil with 4 litres of Castrol Magnatec 5w30. So there was some still left in the engine. I didn't mention in the first post, but the car port whe I park the car has a slightly forward slanted floor, so probably that's why I got it as zero oil. (i.e. an incorrect reading).

I tested the car (actually I drove for like 200km since getting it back) and it still has the power just as it used to, so I don't think the engine was harmed. There aren't any strange noises or anything out of the ordinary. I will keep an eye for excessive oil consumption though.

I thought they would do that in conjunction with the relevant road authority (i.e. VicRoads). Because one of my colleagues told me that he got a recall notice for his 2008 V4 Camry after buying the car from a private seller. My colleague had never done the service at a Toyota dealership. So how would they know how to contact him? Surely they got that info from the road authority. 

2 hours ago, trentmeyer23 said:

Ours was metal, but it came down to what they had in stock.

So the previous owner of my car probably ignored to get it replaced free of charge! I wouldn't be in this mess if this wasn't the case. *sigh*

4 hours ago, trentmeyer23 said:

There was a VVT-i oil line campaign about around 2009-10. We had ours replaced free of charge.

I think it may have been for a limited period though.

Did you get it replaced with an all metal pipe or the improved one with the partial rubber hose? 

Was there any recall notice here? 

I bought the car last year from a Toyota Dealership. Shouldn't they have done something before I bought the car? 

2 minutes ago, 07Prodigy said:

But isn't there two oil lines plus the vvti line

You got me there. I seriously don't know.

Just now, 07Prodigy said:

Hey guys/girls, so basically from what I've read there are two oil lines that get replaced for free, plus an vvti oil line that you have to pay for?

 

is this correct?

VVT-I line is not replaced free of charge. 

Oil cooler line is replaced free of charge only if it goes bad. Otherwise they will charge for replacing it. 

4 minutes ago, trentmeyer23 said:

In this case, Toyota very much believe in the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" train of thought. It all comes down to money and supply.

What happens if the engine gets ruined because of a burst cooling hose? Would they fox the engine fee of charge? No right? So they probably do this for more money. 

$520 is for the part, engine oil and labour. Not just the part. I think most of it is labour. But sure, it isn't cheap! I could think of million things I could have done with that much money. 

Unfortunately, the guy wasn't sure whether the part will be metal or rubber. He said all he knows is that the part is a genuine Toyota part. I really hope that Toyota doesn't make rubber hoses anymore. 

I will be getting the oil cooler hose replaced with a metal one as well, now that you've spread some horror into my head, @Full-Throttle :D I was told the part won't be expensive. Is there any way to get it done free of charge, because this is a actually replaced free of charge in the event of a burst. Should we have to wait for something to happen to claim it out on warranty??? That is stupid.

So...I heard from them. It was a damage in the VVT-I line. Told me it will cost me $520, so like @campbeam mentioned, it is not covered by warranty. :(

I didn't have the engine running after parking the car. I came home, parked the car, switched the engine off, spotted the oil trail, went up to the apartment, came back in an hour or so, and then there was the puddle. 

Edit: added the image of the spill and oil trail.

9 minutes ago, campbeam said:

Based upon my recent experience, it sounds more like being the VVT-i line. My hose only had a pinhole and output lots of oil while the engine was idling on the driveway . Apparently, if it is the oil cooler hose, you lose most of the oil onto the road very quickly. The only indication that the engine has lost so much oil is if the oil pressure warning light displays. In my case, this warning light just flickered on briefly then went away.

Toyota Australia will definitely cover the oil cooler hose. When I asked about the VVT-i oil line, I was told not covered by extended customer service.

Expect to pay about $500-$600 to have the oil line replaced with the full metal line. I had previously bought the parts and spent a frustrating weekend doing this repair.

Darn! $500-600! I hate these unexpected expenses when we are saving up for a house!!! 

I never saw the oil pressure warning come up. Why would it come up and go away? If you missed it, you are a goner, aren't you? 

Anyways, I called Chadstone Toyota a short while ago but they haven't had time to take a look at it yet. They are prioritising the scheduled services. Hopefully the guy in charge of my car will be able to look at it in the evening. I have a feeling that I won't get the car back by Wednesday. :(

Just now, trentmeyer23 said:

Hopefully you got it before it did any damage.

I hope so too. I didn't apparently run it with no oil because there was a reasonably large spill after I parked the car. They had to start the car for a few seconds to load it up to the truck though.