crinkles

Got one for my dec 05 build camry 2AZ-FE. Of course it doesn't work. HOWEVER, I believe the pins just aren't in the right position. THe port is labelled "OBD-II"... There are 8 pins in each row, 2 rows, making 16 pins. On my car end, looking at the plug, with narrow side of the trapezoidal plug to the top, there are pins in 1, , ,4,5, ,7, , 9, , , ,13,14,15,16 On the Scanguage end there are pins at ,2, , 4,5,6,7,, ,10, , , ,14,15,16 , Beats me but it would seem by extrapolation that pins 1 on the car and 2 on the guage must match, same for pin 9 on the car and 10 on the guage. also 4,5,7 on the car likely 6,7,8 on the guage 13,14,15,16 on the car likely 12,13,14,15 on the guage Now, I am determined to make it work but worried about frying my car's brain if i rewire. Also I have no idea of what to do. You say you have an echo with which it works on, mind checking your car's port for the pin positions? The scanguage detects that the camry uses to ISO comms standard, and the pin layout on the car confirms this, but it switches itself off after about 1 minute 15 seconds. Also I recall either 15 or 16 may be the 12V power supply from the battery. Have alos emailed toyota OZ and scangauge in the US.

My owner's manual says 70 L is the capcity of the fuel tank. How much of this can the pump actually get at? The most I've refilled with was about 57 L and that's after the red fuel light came on. The reason I ask is that I'm getting a Scanguage II trip computer and need the avialble fuel volume.

would the Scanguage II work on an 05 camry? I've read that the (american made) scanguage may not work on aussie cars.

paid $180 for 2005 camry 45k service plus $80 for fuel system clean. includes oil change and spark plug change. about $88 for it all was for labour the rest was parts. got charged more for the oil and filter than I would have if I just walked in off the street and bought it cash. that's for the prodcut cost only, no labour accounted for. I never trust dealers not to overcharge me or to charge me for stuff that they said they did but actually didn't. Either way karma will get them if they rip me off.

I have an 05 4 cyl altise. auto. Highway typically between 8 and 10 depending on the % short trips on the same tank. Driving across australia I've gotten low 8's - like 8.2, 8.3, 8.4. I've had 7.9 L/100km using shell 91, best ever was 7.7L/100km using shell V Power. If I do mostly short trips on the tank I would get between 10 and 12. Since I've owned the vehicle my long term consumption (= all fuel and all mileage) has been 9.6L / 100km. Pretty good for a 2.4L engine.

i guess you would probably need a professional translator to do it, especially considering it is a technical piece to be translated. maybe in the yellow pages or something like that. It might cost something, but, I wouldn't trust anything a website translates (you need the human aspect of it). And furthermore the spanish authorities may only accept translations that are "certified" i.e. by qualified translators.

ok, i guess! :D does anyone else have "U250" stamped on their tranmsmissions in the 4 cyl 2005?

Hello, I recently bought a 2005 Camry altise, build date Dec 05. Its the 4 cylinder auto, ex fleet car. The compliance plate says the transmission is a U241E, which wikipedia says is a 4 speed. however, there is a fat U250 stamped on the transmission case, which according to wiki is an updated 5 speed version of the U241E. So what's the go? do i have five speeds or four? Would they stuff up the compliance plate but put in a 5 speed anyway?

This may be a bit off topic but where can I get a K&N air filter for an 05 2.4L in Perth?

when all the mounting are still cold they're hard, but as the engine bay gets warmer it get softer and that's why you don't feel much when the car is running warm. especially when your Camry has only done 33,000km. Engine n Gearbox mount should be replace after 150,000km or even 200,000km. Even my camry, nearly 10yrs old and the engine n gearbox mounting are still super good. I did a little experiment tonight. I was pulling the car into the garage while still cold. put it in N and handbrake on, opened the bonnet so I could see the engine while shifting into D or R. Sure enough, when i stuck it into D, the WHOLE engine and Transmission Assy moved! the top moved about 3 or 5 cm to the back.! and, popped it into R, same thing happened, only the other way round! Like the torque was forcing the assembly to rotate a fair bit. Is this normal? Are these movements engineered into the engine and transmission mounts to extend their life or whatever? i have NEVER seen anything like that... it got me by surprise. should i be worried? \ At least i know that this whole assembly moving might be causing the vibration when i start it up cold and put it into drive or reverse. I am new to autos... at a stop light, do I put it in Neutral or keep it in drive? It feels right to put it in neutral...

I am sorry to hear about your situation. I was worried something similar would happen to us, so I had the RACWA do a master check on the car for $170. (which I am getting a refund for as I am financing through them). They didn't find anything wrong with it excpet a very small tear in the door upholstery, you really had to look for it to notice it. I am convinced that car dealers are the lowest of the low. I have strong words for them but I won't say them here. words like scum come to mind? every single word, even "the" and "a" coming from their mouths you just can't trust. We bought a Camry 2005 from a dealer here in Perth. I won't name him. Their service was terrible. I'd go so far as to say pathetic. I don't know how Toyota Australia can allow these dealerships to be run like this and their products to be flogged by dealers looking to screw toyota's customers. It took ages to get the most basic paperwork sorted with this dealer (I mean, this is supposed to be their JOB - selling cars???) and all through the deal I had the feeling they were shafting me at every turn. They kept on to the car as long as possible, dragging paperwork out, and in my mind that only means one thing - they were trying to hide something quick. above all i got my rego and stamp duty papers from the dealer a day after i was supposed to lodge them with licensing.. what do you know... i might need to pay a $100 infringement because i lodged them late. thanks, mr dealer. I find it appaling that dealers virtually prey on people with a product everyone needs. I dont see why buying a car needs to be such a hassle from trying to avoid being shafted from start to finish. just my 2 cents. I wish i could walk to Altona and buy a car straight off the factory floor. cut the middleman out. Toyota should look into that.

when all the mounting are still cold they're hard, but as the engine bay gets warmer it get softer and that's why you don't feel much when the car is running warm. especially when your Camry has only done 33,000km. Engine n Gearbox mount should be replace after 150,000km or even 200,000km. Even my camry, nearly 10yrs old and the engine n gearbox mounting are still super good. OK, which makes sense, only in R or D would there be some sort of connection to load the engine and if you're right, the cold mountings mean extra vibrations when i start out. So what are these mountings/dampeners made out of? some kind of rubber? I was thinking I bought a lemon there for a second but it drives beaut once warm. Checked the ATF this morning and its fine.

Hello, This may well be my first post. I bought a 2005 camry altise 4cyl auto two weeks ago. Must say I am very happy with the car. Drives like a charm. I upgraded from a Hyundai Getz so you can imagine! I have a few questions though. When I start it up and put it into gear (R or D), mostly when the engine and transmission is cold, it tends to vibrate a fair bit like its the torque converter or transmission playing up. I know this because in Neutral or Park it doesn't vibrate. Is it normal? it doen't happen when everything is warmed up. Also, what is the best oil for my 2AZ-FE? I understand its 10W-30, but what does Toyota use? Is it fully synthetic or is it OK to use mineral 10W-30. Looking at the oil on the dipstick its a fully synthetic. I would probably go with Castrol Edge 5W-30 fully synthetic. Its pricey though and shell has an eco 10W-30 mineral for a fair bit cheaper. Also, should we use thicker oils than that in Australia, given the heat? I am planning to maybe drive from Perth to Brisbane in July. Edit: it has 33,000km on it.

i have read the manual and yes, it does do metric units.

would it work on the new Australian camry? i am on the verge of buying an altise manual... which has no trip computer of course. it says it needs to be OBDII compliant car. Has anyone tried it? Would be an expensive experiment at US$165 just to find out it doesn't work. Apparently it all depends on whether the ECU actually sends data to the OBD port. I've read that outside of america although the car has an OBD port under the steering column it may not actually receive the data OK...