L4WL3SS

Checked it out again myself, there's no issue with the wheel nuts, that tiny bit sticking out the back of the wheel slots perfectly in the gap around the stud just like the factory nut did. These wheel nuts are literally perfect for this application.

Ok, wheel nuts bottom out by only half a mm..... Something I didn't pick up on..... 🤪 

There's a heap of ads on eBay still selling them, one of them still remained up even after they told me the supply issue. 

I ended up going with pedders, and the dude got the springs in literally overnight. Even though pedders were dearer, their stuff is good, and worth it, not being stuffed around chasing refunds for a month 😠

40 minutes ago, Twixter said:

How are they obsolete? 

https://i.postimg.cc/VNKq0dgS/IMG-20210624-114538.jpg

Just a warning to anyone wanting to purchase these from sellers, be aware that they are obsolete until at least December & possibly for good. Seems pedders are the only coil spring supplier in superlow height. 

I forgot to take a comparison Pic in the aurion, but luckily I fitted another set I had to an i30, and the difference to original bulb is amazing. As a set of 4, they work out to be $7. 50 each

Yay they fit. Well one does, & I'll take my chances on the rest having been drilled correctly by me. I reckon its gonna look great 👍 superlow springs have been ordered from pedders and should be in the car soon then will fit these & take some pics

That was just the result of a search I did after stumbling on this thread 👍

I went with these 4 for $30. Should receive them Monday & will fit & give my thoughts

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/373070477648

H11 bulb

I'm wondering if they can be swapped, as long as both spring & strut go together.

But it would be interesting if the aftermarket sportivo struts still carry over the firmer Toyota tuning 

Has anyone confirmed that zr6 springs can go into an atx or touring for example? If they are interchangeable between models, then what exactly is the difference because they are all the same price aftermarket so one won't likely be better spec than the other. Kyb rep couldn't tell me what the difference is

Looking for the cheapest way whilst having everything bolt up fine. Turns out these wheels are made by enkei 👍  I considered having the holes drilled out 3.5mm to suit the Toyota nuts, but there's no guarantee the nuts will still fit properly. At least this way, the tapered section of the nut will 100% center the wheel properly, and that's on top of the hubcentric ring. I drilled them out today, and will place an order for the gorilla taper/shank nuts. If my drilling is straight, and the nuts are made to exact spec, I may have a small chance these wheels will fit 🤞😂

With 8mm chrome pinstripe 👍

I've ordered the 60.1mm to 66.1mm hub ring from eBay so that's no worry. However I've found the wheel nuts are an issue......

Toyota wheel nut shank is 18.2mm diameter, but Nissan wheel holes are 15mm & are designed to accept acorn nuts with 60deg taper. Too easy, I thought.... Until I found the Toyota stud is too short to grab onto an acorn nut. So the hunt has been on to find a 12mmx1.5 tapered nut with shank that will fit into the Nissan hole. The closest I can find is a 15.7mm shank diameter. The plan is to drill out the Nissan hole from 15mm to 16mm to accept a 15.7mm shank. 

Stay tuned 😁

That's a pretty strange question bro'

Tried painting one wheel all black, along with the caliper yellow. Will do them all like this. Have the funds available now to lower the car, stay tuned 👍

Funny thing is, when I did the rears on mine, it seemed to fix a noisy pulley 😂

If you've been charged 1hr labour for plugs, then I'd be considering the possibility the rears havnt been done. 

On the 40series at least, they are done at 150k. I just did the rears on mine, and was time consuming but not difficult

I've done exhaust mods as well so this sorta stuff goes hand in hand. 

All I can say is have a poke around ur engine bay & check out ur intake. If ur happy with it, then leave it. 👍

1. Removed charcoal mesh from airbox lid.

2. Cut off the chamber from the intake pipe, and covered the holes with silicone joiner & adhesive. Relocated vacuum nipple from the discarded chamber to the airbox lid. 

3. Swapped vacuum hoses around to keep intake valve open permanently to the top runner. 

Seems to have more pop up top, and a noticeable roar at full throttle. I'm happy 👍

Well shortly after stating research shows its a waste of time, I had a good look at the intake & I didn't like any of it, so I've done a couple things...... Surely there's something wrong with me haha. I've quit smoking couple weeks ago, so have the need to tinker with things 😂

Will post pics once tidied up

Delete plz. 

I despise protectors in general, bonnet, window dash etc. I've never used them and never had an issue apart from this aurion dash, and one in a 1980 commodore 😂

He mentioned there was one from another dealer in another city/state but basically told me they won't help