Jump to content

and1

Regular Member
  • Posts

    1,626
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by and1

  1. Also 2ZZGEs do not have cam gears as they are chain and sprocket driven, so no need to worry about that.

    Ummm, what?. Of course they have cam gears (you yourself just called them sprockets, same thing). As far as camshaft turning and timing etc is concerned there is no difference between timing chain and timing belt, just one is made from rubber (and has a habit of stretching and breaking if you don't change them at set intervals) and the other from metal (which doesn't stretch as much and generally lasts the life of the car). You're more likely to come across problems regarding cam gears when it comes to implementing the VVTLi, which not all aftermarket cam gears would be capable of replicating.

    I assumed he was thinking of aftermarket adjustable cam gears. Nothing available for that AFAIK for the 2ZZ, not like you would need it anyways.

    My head and my fingers weren't in sync <_<

  2. So you're thinking of getting an ecu before you have even done all the bolt on mods? That's just gonna end up costing you big money.

    Also 2ZZGEs do not have cam gears as they are chain and sprocket driven, so no need to worry about that.

    I was planning on a NA build. I have a ported head (inlet and exhaust ported) if you were keen. And some broken stage 3 cams too lol.

    I/H/E would net you decent power.

    If you were planning on valvetrain upgrades, hold off on the ecu until you have all the parts then get it tuned and installed at one time.

  3. There's alot of MX5 bagging going on here <_< <_<

    Go the MX5. Endless amounts of parts available and a hell of a lot of fun.

    The NA6 may be a lil slow so try to find a later model NA8. I have a hard time differentiating between the difference in power between my stivo and my MX. But the MX handles so much better and is way more forgiving.

  4. You can get the Toyos at any Tyrepower store. As state by Phil you would want wider wheels for them as T1Rs have a softer sidewall and I had occasions where the sidewall would fold over slightly.

    Also you gotta ask yourself if you need a near R-comp tyre for daily duties? Do you do any track work at all? You might struggle to get decent kms out of a set of R1Rs.

    Have a look at the Hankook RS-2s. Bloody awesome tyre and work great on my MX5.

  5. What's still for sale?

    -Goodridge braided brake lines $150

    -Custom Bi-Xenon headlights $500 (don't headlights anymore)

    -Stainless steel 'Corolla' scuff plates $50

    -Painted Topstage eyelids $80

    -Genuine Toyota headlight covers $60

    -Calibre oil catch can with custom bracket $50

    I also have a couple of parts that I completely forgot about from my NA build:

    -Ported 2ZZ head. No cams. $400

    -Piper stage 3 cams. Intake cam is snapped in half. Exhaust cam in good nick. Was damaged during transit. $50 if anyone is keen

  6. You'll get alot of flex or roll with Sportivo rims as they are not really wide enough for a 205 width. You need a 7 inch wide rim. KU36 does come in a 215/45/R16 which would be pretty comparable in size. Otherwise Toyo Proxes R1Rs have a 205/50/R16. Proxes T1Rs are a good compromise as they have much better grip in the wet.

  7. Sportivo:

    -6 speed manual ONLY

    -2ZZGE has a metal intake manifold (1ZZFE manifolds are black plastic)

    -Aus model has full climate control with silver patterned centre console.

    Things to look out for:

    -Check to see if the shift linkage cables rattle

    -make sure it revs to just past 8k

    -check to see if the clutch has been adjusted. You can do this by trying a 1st to 2nd gear shift at high rpm. If it crunches or doesn't go in easily then it has not been adjusted.

×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership