matt_glad

I got some rears from the UK they were slightingly too big and had to be machined down in diameter by 4-5mm otherwise they would hit the calipers.

Sounds interesting I will try do this too, was this front or rear?

Our ECU can only be tuned in WOT (Wide open throttle) unless you have a more knowledge and an advanced piggy back. WOT is where you want to make the power so a piggyback is fine after minor mods. The factory ECU will run a bit rich up top and there is only 3-4 hp to be gained from tuning the fuel. There will be more of a gain in also tuning the vvt 4-5hp. So with the neo its not really worth it in my opinion.

Thanks, I have been driving around for the last week with new bearings, clutch and LSD Great news is I now don't have a gearbox whine on de-acceleration The clutch has a bit of shudder if you try and slip it more on/off now The LSD did need some modification for speedo ring but no biggie The best news is I no longer wheel spin on take-off great to have some traction If i drop the clutch it leaves two nice black lines :)

Cars making good progress, dropped it off to Alex at Highbrook Automotive (New Zealand) Pulled gearbox out, found standard clutch was slipping its ***** off after 30,000 km. Clutch got sent to autoclutch to be upgraded and new organic disk, since its my daily drive. 2075LB clutch Alex and myself cracking open the gearbox

His car is 1ZZ. Got any recent pics? Yea i am just a lil 1zz lol not a stivo like alot of the other modders. yea its only a 1zz but it has anough work to put up a good fight against a stivo :P i had 2 pics on facebook from a cruise up the old pac a few weeks ago so i uploaded them to imageshack http://img192.imageshack.us/i/rollamx5oldpac.jpg/ http://img705.imageshack.us/i/rollapieinskystopoldpac.jpg/ nothin exciting but its a recent pic ;) i guess i can take a pic of the engine mounts lol but there isnt really anything to take pics of except that i was going to take some new shots when my brother gets his DSLR but thats not for another month so i will have to wait till then for that. Yea that's great power for a 1zz then sorry I should have realized that Any plans on some head work?

Im also thinking about MWR stage 3 cams but I just don't want to loose power below 4k its a daily drive.

Imported them for about $400 for valves and $500 for valve springs and titanium retainers including shipping PM Me and I will pass your details onto my supplier :)

Hey Looking at your dyno i see you only made 99kw? and at 6,200 why does the power drop off. My peak power was at about 7,600 rpm. Im not sure if that header design is helping. I would say that a set of factory ported ones would be better. What size exhaust are you running and is it straight through?

Head goodies have arrived the valves are stronger stainless steel and coated in Nitride they also flow 2cfm more than factory. Springs allow 9000+ rpm due to higher seat pressure. Supertech valves Supertech springs and Titanium retainers ARP head bolts

Corolla needs to go on the dyno again but one more thing to do lack of traction is driving me crazy LSD NEW GEARBOX BEARINGS

About $200 from memory I better post some more pics up of my new goodies

Its for a celica. Im assuming everything's the same besides the piping to the FMIC and back. The intake pipe, between the intake pipe and the sc is different. How do i know? ive got both intake pipe for corolla and celica. Andrew, Have a few supercharged ones over here, they work fine. Maybe a little custom work. http://www.slamin.co.nz/corolla-specs/

Next modification Circuitworx oil pump gear Monkey wrench racing pulleys New tensioner bearing, water pump and alternator

A few updates for the corolla High flow cat Magnaflow rear muffler Sounds less droney compared to blitz axle back and more power all over!

I bought a cheap one and it did not fit correctly and had bad welding shap edges was junk, check his one first before you buy another.

RD2075 BLK I used this one in my 2002 corolla the RD2076 has extra pipes you wound need to block off they are for an air pump which are from the 2004+ cars in America.

I run a magnaflow high flow cat and center resonator a magnaflow rear muffler. Mine sounds good. I have built systems for people who wanted to skimp and they also sounded raspy. Need 3 resonators or 2 and a cat. http://s494.photobucket.com/albums/rr306/matt_glad/Exhaust/

Sent them to me and Ill do them for $100!

Just get a short shifter there not hard to fit and lots of cheeps ones around

They use a bend right before it goes into the trottle body thats where I mean. The injen however is perfectly mated up the the T/B

Yes, at a loss of it elsewhere. Don't even think about remapping ignition timing without some sort of aftermarket ECU... I suppose if anybody wanted to get a bit fancy, I can see a set of quads from a SR20 hanging off the front of the head quite nicely... Yes both KW and torque are improved that is the whole point of tuning Ignition map is designed to be running 100 octane anyway so unless you are running 100 octane there would not be much to gain. if you are Tuning a 2zz, you will note the stock ECU pulls the ignition timing, then puts it back in, right before lift kicks in... as a bit of a sales pitch for LIFT. tuning with aftermarket ECU can "fix" this.. makes your power curve more linear. Yep but I would be interested to see a before and after of just the ignition. I'm sure the is a little but not as much as cam

Engines love cold air :) I believe the TRD is not a bad choice but has a few joins in it, this would cause a little disturbance I prefer INJEN they make the most power 1) INJEN CAI 2) TRD CAI 3) SRI with cold air ducting 4) Factory with aftermarket filter 5) SRI

Yes, at a loss of it elsewhere. Don't even think about remapping ignition timing without some sort of aftermarket ECU... I suppose if anybody wanted to get a bit fancy, I can see a set of quads from a SR20 hanging off the front of the head quite nicely... I have been researching this ;) and from what I have been able to gather, and from discussing with a friend, a set from a 20v 4A would be should be easier, but then again he dont know 2ZZ, do you honestly beleive SR20 would be better for the 2ZZ? The 4age 20v have been done before, but you would need a very good ECU to tune either type of quad's There may be a bolt on Intake manifold built soon that will improve on factory intake manifold which would be easier than doing quads. But quads are cool <_<

Yes, at a loss of it elsewhere. Don't even think about remapping ignition timing without some sort of aftermarket ECU... I suppose if anybody wanted to get a bit fancy, I can see a set of quads from a SR20 hanging off the front of the head quite nicely... Yes both KW and torque are improved that is the whole point of tuning Ignition map is designed to be running 100 octane anyway so unless you are running 100 octane there would not be much to gain.