CME-LFT

Post edited to SD, sorry about that lol

Well that clears a bit up, and its easy enough for me to understand.

I think ill bite the bullet and consider going pwr fc, im pm you when im keen on the harness.

But in the end it wont hurt to get cams first, then pwr fc last as then i would only need to get it tuned once, but of course that asks for next years tax return as well lol ;)

Thanks for all your help !!

Hope this has helped others!!

Thanks for the detailed responses.

Towards SD

So if your saying that stock engine with stage 2 cams is the same as stock engine with power fc then if labour was free for the cam install then it would be a cheaper alternative to get a bit of gain then changing the ecu? i take it stock with power fc still brings some gain over factory.$12-1300 for pwr fc + tuning

By ported manifold, do you mean what ive done, ported headers/extractors(i know its not the extractors ported but rather where it joins to the engine) or is it something different (sorry to be so stupid) Rough cost??

I know you make a adapter kit but dont want to have to play around with the water hose.and i think you mentioned something about a aircon? unless thats all been fixed.

Last and not least (for now) the kind of damage that would occur if it would from not using upgraded valve springs?

Thanks again

I should rephrase that, there's money i want to waste, not so much that i have money to waste.lol

Hi guys, got some money to waste, was looking at the MWR website and came across the cams, wondering if anyones had any experience with them, if its worth the dollars for the gain?

MWR Cam Set Stage 3

Piper Cams Stage 2

Piper Cams Stage 3

Im not the smartest person when it comes to cars but if i change the cams is it something that will give me more power up top?, higher rev range?.....will i sacrifice power down low? what else would you recommend doing if i was going to get them changed and so on! I know the website mentions changing the valve springs as well.

What's the difference between the stages 2 & 3?

Power difference between stock and different stages?

The car is a 2004 rolla Sportivo, 2.5" catback, ported stock headers and CAI. No computer because im a bit funny when it comes to hacking up factory wires, so keep that in mind that the cams will be running of a non tuned car if that makes sense.

I remember reading about this before but i hate the new search engine so hopefully you guys can let this slide and help me out.

Thanks all

ebay foggies

And then replace them with a hb4 hid kit. did it in mine before the cheap ebay ones blew, it was so damn bright!! defect though, good for night runs

Yep, try supercheap, i bought one from ebay for like $8 i think

The only thing i can think of is to maybe get starter motor checked?

Is there anyway to mod the s/c to fit a 2zz? any idea whats involved?

Sprayed engine cover, fuse box and c-brackets that hold the whiteline front strut brace candy red with red glitter (sound gay, but looks good.lol)

Also finally put superlows in the rear to even out the ride height, looks so much better, yet i have doubts on its handling ability now.

If your in sydney go to ryda on paramatta rd (www.ryda.com) they got the upper model xr-616 for $240. Better unit, read here as ascendant rice asked previously in another topic and i bought one a couple of days ago.

Single din vs double din

X force as a brand is cheap chinese mass produced hype. Don't like it and don't like the sound it makes.Am still yet to see any solid evidence on just how much superior it is over a quality made normal muffler....

Why did you spend all that money and use the stock resonator?? Free up the system and then put a restrictor back in??? As for a high flow cat you won't notice a lick of difference HP wise from that at all.

Westside mufflers in Padstow is who I would recommend to use for custom quality work. does a lot of work for the likes of Pac Performance, Queen ST smash etc etc. They wouldn't use Brad if he wasn't any good. Just have to see the quality of the cars always parked out the front to know the products are good.....

+1 besides the cheap xforce part, i got xforce twin tip, best sounding 4 banger ive heard is my car, (no offence to others), its a deep sound if not a little too loud, without that tin can sound at the end when it winds out like ive noticed with a lot of sss's

Just bought xr616 today and installed it (dont bother with 416) xr 616 has variable colours and 2 rca preouts (front + rear/subwoofer switchabal with sub control) 416 has only 1 rca preout and no colour change.

Cost me $240 at ryda on parramatta rd. Loving this unit so far, heaps of options to tune, 30 something colours to choose from, lcd screen can be different colour to buttons. Btw, its my first DDIN and loving it so far.

Dont bother with 1 preout, u always want at LEAST 2 to be able to amp the fronts etc and adjust rear subwoofer seperate to speaker bass if you decide to put one in.

Plus DDIN looks better,

It just come down to if you want to spend extra $40 for a dd, or go with the single which is cheaper and also gives you the option of hiding the faceplate when the cars parked.

Congrats on the buy, i always found that model easy to drive.

Plus Black is always the best looking colour car at night B) :P

Still having fun,since driving the car more and having more practice, car only crunch 1/30 times now lthough nowhere near as severe as it used to, a quick little rev and it pops straight in when it does crunch,(obviously let the gbox warm up) still running on the factory clutch, now having done 112,xxx, dont really drive it much anymore, its become a weekend car.

I wouldnt say its completely fixed the problem, but it has dramatically improved it to the point where its now completely acceptable. (honda's crunch all the time from my experience(not me personnally, but mates cars and internet videos)) Like i said, changing clutch might fix that last little bit, but im happy enough not to spend any more money until the clutch has completely had it.

Yes, for the price i still completely recommend it! Worth every penny :D :D

after i had my exhaust done, i developed a distinct metallic rattle that wasn't consistent at any particular rev range from day to day.

when i got underneath the car i had a poke around, and discovered that where the resonator is, theres a metal strip that goes across the gap in the actual body of the car. as the exhaust pipe was fatter, it reduced the clearance between the pipe and this strip to about 2-3 mm. when the engine was under load it would move the exhaust pipe, causing it to occasionally hit and rattle on this strip.

i just took it off, bent it slightly, filed larger holes in it for the mounting bolts and put it back on, and the clearance is just under an inch now. no issues since!

maybe check that? the strip is painted black, so if it is the pipe vibrating against this strip, the paint will be scratched where it makes contact.

+1 Had the same issue

Great day,thanks guys,cant wait till the next one. :D :D

Cant really tell from your picture, but my brothers pulsar he was able to smash out the orange section from his indiactors to make them clear, and then just used an orange globe.

But im thinking from your photo that the orange section is actually the face of the indicator.

I Just ordered a hoodie :D :D

Looks like the sportivos got a challenge!

My thoughts.

Painters:white so that they can bleach the clothes and try to keep them partially clean

Mechanics: Black so you dont see all the oil/grease stains.

Council workers, energy aus :fluro vests for visibility due to the fact that they work around populated zones such as streets (e.g street lights) and such

Chippies: browns and such so you dont see all the sawdust there covered in.

Me im a sparky and the uniform from boss is blue king jees with light blue button shirt. I guess sparkies are considered the cleanest trade (even though were not) so i guess we try to look a little bit more formal/presentable with shirt and collar.

Like i said, i could be wrong its just my thoughts

that is f@#$%en insane ..... now to work out how to get the corolla to come off the line like that ...... lol

LMAO!

Sometime today, 94-96 Fluro green corolla with rims, Plates "DROLLA"

1.Dont know, but im sure a few have.

2.^^

3.It looks factory, nah the only thing i can say is that my stock one compared to the whiteline one, is that the whiteline brace points on each size are welded as to become one piece, as with my stock one, it looks more like each end has its own coupling.(rounder ends, mind you last time i looked at my stock one was like 2-3 yrs ago)

4.It is as simple as removing 2 bolts, car doesnt need to be supported as nothing will fall apart (ive driven without the rear sway bar before) But its a bit fiddly to line the new one up and pop the nuts back in.

5.king wrecks fairfield is all i can think of.

And when the might 2ZZ used to be king on these boards.

Who says it still isn't king ;)