DJKOR

Thanks for that,

I must report BINGO !! that was it exactly, I have been teaching an aprentice at work to drive and I'm almost certain this is how its occured. Jogging my memory now there was a mighty struggle with the hand/foot brake.

Brilliant ! obviously my search terms were not well enough defined.

No worries. Great to hear this has helped you out.

I had to persistently search for it based on what I had left on my mind, so I would never have expected anyone to be able to find that post easily.

There was something I remember reading some time ago which may or may not be of use here. It doesn't hurt to check though. After about 10 minutes of searching the forum, I have managed to track it down:

Dual Aircon Problem

Just on a side note. i have seen a few air cond issues where the driver may dislodge the wire to the servo motor on the r/h side of the aircon box. As he or she puts the park brake on their shoe may snag the wire and in some cases the servo plastic housing may brake and require replacement. i have seen 3 of these issues and 2 were on one car (dept of defence aurion) 1 owner 73 drivers, lol

if you lie on the drivers floor and look up toward the air cond box you can see 2 servo motors and wiring plugs, the lower one is the most common one. this would stop the heater box from moving so it depends on where it last got stuck - whether it is hot and no cold or vice-versa.

cheers Tim.

p.s. the 2 servo motors come as 1 piece on the locating plate when ordering a replacement.. i may have a spare servo somewhere ????????

try a baldwin filter. not sure if they have a cross reference for the 2GR engines... u might find that the cost of it wont be much different to a genuine nor a ryco one. i just like my products to be made in countries other than china :P

edit: or thailand :P

baldwin filters are made in the USA

In that case:

P/N: P7398

http://catalog.baldwinfilter.com/PartSpecification.asp?URL=LoadParts.asp&VehicleRef=1&partnumber=P7398&Appln_No=53893&Year=2007&Make=TOYOTA&Model=Camry&Desc=V6%2D211+%283%2E5L%29+FI&DisplayBackButton=0

I always use genuine mainly because I have had no issues with it and the cost isn't that bad.

If I was to use another brand, I would probably go for a Ryco (R2648P).

You could get a K&N (PS-7020) if you want as they are a reliable brand, but I personally don't like the look of the filter compared to the genuine one. I know those plastic ends probably don't affect the flow at all, but I'm picky like that. On that note though, if you look at the filter material on the K&N and compare it to the genuine filter, there probably isn't all that much difference.

Don't have the money to take on the challenge. Plus it would never be approved for road use in Queensland:

http://www.tmr.qld.gov.au/~/media/4885d177-931d-48a8-8844-0594087988e8/vsil10lightvehiclereplacementsuspensionmodifications.pdf

Only one way to find out.

Good that it is at Hoppy's too because:

1) The car needs a scrub it looks filthy from the kicked up road grime and,

2) Hoppy's is in close vicinity to BP in case I need to get some ice cream to cool the burn if it messes me up beyond what I can handle.

Hoppys meet tonight guys?

It would appear so.

Can you just get a switch put in where you an just push it to turn it on an off??

Doesn't simply work like that unless you build a specific bypass module to do so. That involves messing with your wiring to the ABS actuator.

Yes. Definitely there tomorrow.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0APBemFGUdU

Does anyone know what the 2nd screw heard the high beam does? Kept turning it and saw nothing.

I would be guessing the one next to the high beam adjusts the high beam. Because they are set to go distance, you probably need to increase you test distance to start to see what you have done.

Whilst the GoPro is a good camera, there are limitations which do not make it ideal for a car "black box" style recorder as per the OP.

What you primarily must have in a car "black box" style recorder (which the GoPro does not have I believe) is the ability to automatically start recording when you drive. Most of them do this by starting recording the moment power is applied from the power adaptor such as when the car is turned on. This combined with recycle recording means you never need to physically touch the camera until you need to take the memory card out to get the video of a recent event.

Out of curiosity, where would one get this "T300" you speak of. Not the T-300 tough. I want to live.

Heaps of places sell them, they are copy of an AD100 and a very poor copy at that, I would be very hesitant connecting one to my car because they have been known to do damage... but what do you expect for a cheap crappy counterfeit tool :)

And as long as you have a master key you don't need any OBD tools for most Toyotas.

Not sure if you got my drift but I was trying to get him to promote a particular website so I can confirm he is a spambot. I thought the Terminator reference would have given away the fact I'm onto him.

I'm not into crap like this.

So "byaninek"... ever head of a banstick? Is it compatible with and OBD programmer?

Out of curiosity, where would one get this "T300" you speak of. Not the T-300 tough. I want to live.

Follow the procedures in the service manual to determine how much oil you need:

U660E_Automatic_Transaxle.pdf

Definitely too high 2900rp,. I'd be not pleased. Camry does the 110-120km/hr @ 2100rpm

I think you fail to factor in the engine size and/or power curve of the engine. Just because your Camry sits at a lower rev at a given speed, it doesn't mean the 86 is "definitely too high".

There is a real simple fix to this and it involves a little simple technique:

(Note: even my 2011 FJ Cruiser can sometimes have a small grinding noise for a nano second as listed in the linked thread)

Instead of turning off your engine at idle speed of 750rpm odd you simply lift up the engine revs to 2000rpm for 1 second and then while at 2000rpm turn off the ignition!

What happens is more than double the oil pressure is present and a lot more oil is forced into and around the VVTi mechanism. After adopting this shut down method I for over a week of daily driving have not herd ANY type of odd noise on a cold start of the engine, even after sitting for multiple days.

Try it! It does work and for sure keeps more oil in the upper end of the motor.

I'll definitely be trying this one; it certainly makes sense. My Aurion is starting to do this now (9,000km since last oil change... like clockwork) so it would be a good time to test it. Strangely enough, I only get it when I park outside when I'm out and about. I have never had it once do so when I am at home parked in the garage. Can't explain that one.

Probably late to chime in on this, but there is some discussion that can be found over on the Aurion board too.

Is this kinda the sound you were referring to?

If so, here's a post I prepared earlier from a while ago before it was really defined as to what the cause really was. It gives a bit of insight of how the noise is produced however:

I guess we were right. Dave and I had this one on our minds from when we first thought about it. Since you are the second person to report that it is being changed under warranty, maybe there is some more hope for others that are getting the issue.

I dont think it is piston slap, more like a timing chain rattle or maybe something in the vvti mechanism.

That's what I'm thinking. It seems to be coming from the upper part of the block. It's similar to the sound of that intake control valve closing, but more metallic. It just has me stumped.

Maybe it really is the VVT-i mechanism. When you see a video animation of it working, you can kind of picture how it can generate a knock/rattle sound if it doesn't have appropriate oil pressure in it.

The mechanism is like this for those that don't know:

Having a quick look at the service manual, maybe it ties in with the so called 'lock pin':

When the engine stops, the intake side VVT-i controller is locked on the most retarded angle side by the lock pin, and the exhaust side controller is locked on the most advanced angle side. This ensures excellent engine startability.

The oil pressure sent from the advance or retard side path at the intake and exhaust camshaft causes rotation in the VVT-i controller vane circumferential direction to vary the intake valve timing continuously.

An advanced angle assist spring is provided on the exhaust side VVT-i controller. This helps to apply torque in the advanced angle direction so that the vane lock pin securely engages with the housing when the engine stops.

When hydraulic pressure is not applied to the VVT-i controller immediately after the engine has been started, the lock pin locks the movement of the VVT-i controller to prevent a knocking noise.

Aurion owners are just awesome...

Yeah. Awesome like this guy:

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/sunnybank/cars/the-best-looking-aurion-you-can-found-big-money-on-it-/1002786833

Welcome. FYI. There is some information in the first thread of this sub-forum you posted in:

Thread revival.

The 1st one is definitely horizonal adjustment but the 2nd one i do not know what is does even after turning it for a while.

Does anyone know which one is for vertical? Got the car back and the headlights are too high.

Please go back a page and look again.

The cost of the permit includes compulsory third party cover for the period the permit is valid for. You don't need plates, just the permit stuck on your windscreen.

I think what Ozzcaddy is referring to is your typical comprehensive/fire, theft & third party insurance from someone like AAMI, etc. Should you hit some wildlife or another car, even if it's their fault, no insurance means you will have to cover all repairs.

Yep.