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DJKOR

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Posts posted by DJKOR

  1. Yeah I was just seeing if there where any others other then that one

    Well it's either that or the mesh grill. If you don't want to get it from eBay or Bodykits Kingdom, then you have to source it yourself from overseas.

    If you don't like the design, then you aren't going to find anything else that is already made to fit.

  2. Hi Shankxie. Unfortunately I don't know of anywhere you can get grilles to suit your car. Bondie's car as pictured earlier in the post is an older shape car to yours. There are grilles similar to his advertised on ebay but may require some modification to suit your car. You would have to check out a pre 09 model (preferably with the grille you like) to see if it can be made to fit your car. Sorry mate, not much help. Otherwise , you could have something custom made and be the first person to have a sweet grille on their 11 model. Maybe you could even sell them to other enthusiasts, sounds like a nice sideline business to me.

    Um... alrighty then.

    www.ebay.com.au/itm/130603309961

  3. Good luck with that. I hate to bear bad news, but I think you will find that they don't exactly sell that individual piece on its own. It is part of the entire assembly referred to as:

    67610-06751: BOARD SUB-ASSY, FRONT DOOR TRIM, RH

    67620-06660: BOARD SUB-ASSY, FRONT DOOR TRIM, LH

    http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_G_2007_TOYOTA_AURION_GSV40R-JETGKQ_6701.2.html

    You can tell this is the case because the part number for the entire assembly varies between the different grades of Aurion.

  4. Yeah. Good luck to that seller. Especially considering it is a "Buy It Now" price. Even though they may be in excellent condition, I don't think their demand is that great.

    Couldn't even offload mine at $750 with tires. That said, the silver ones aren't as popular as the gunmetal ones.

    Put it on eBay though and got $830.

  5. Your logic is irrefutable; I'll stick to genuine Toyota coolant

    That said however, I do hear good things about Nulon products. They may very well do the job however I am usually one to stick with what I know has worked for me. I'll probably be keeping my Aurion for a while and if it reaches the point where the coolant starts to look like it is getting contaminated due to wear and tear on the engine, I'd probably switch to Nulon.

    One other query if you would be kind enough to further advise

    My mechanic recommends never changing the automatic gearbox oil, claiming it adds nothing to the life of the automatic gearbox, unlike regular service to the engine oil and filter

    Is this the acceptable practice for modern automatic gearboxes?

    This is my first vehicle with an automatic gearbox so have very little knowledge of them

    This is a bit of an interesting topic. Even though most of these manufacturers these days keep saying things like "sealed for life" etc etc, no oil is going to last forever. Because of all this, there really isn't any service interval defined. Whilst I would like to believe that the transmission fluid is good for such a long time, part of me does not trust such claims.

    I myself would prefer to change the transmission fluid every 90,000-100,000 km just to be on the safe side. On that note though, I am currently up to 150,000km and am yet to change mine. I don't like the idea of changing just the fluid and not the filter together with it so that's the one part holding me back. There are two bolts holding the transmission sump on which are blocked by the engine sub-frame. I have limited resources available at home. The procedure itself is pretty specific (it's posted somewhere here) so I don't particularly trust anyone but Toyota to approach this one, and seeing that I don't really want to pay Toyota to do it, I am limited by myself pretty much.

    When that time comes though, this is one of those moments where I am going to move away from the tried and tested and start using Penrite ATF FS.

  6. Repco sell the red coolant that they claim is OK for Toyota

    It's OAT whatever that is

    Anyone use their coolant for Toyota Aurion, Camry etc

    How often does coolant need changing, is five years about right ?

    Well first things first, the initial coolant change is 150,000km (which was 5 years for me in response to your question) and then every other coolant change after that is at 75,000km.

    The Toyota Super Long Life Coolant (SLLC) is quite good and does exactly what it's meant to do and considering the long time between changes, I don't see any reason to use anything else. You would probably only save about $20-$25 per coolant change (Toyota SLLC works out to be about $10/litre retail in the 5 litre bottles) so when you work it out for a car that travels average k's, it's like $1 per month that you are saving. I personally would stick to the Toyota coolant but each to their own.

  7. It would be great to have an answer to what engine component the noise is coming from though.

    Most of these cases are the VVTi controller as already discussed. This is why that "solution" of revving to 2k RPM before you shut down the engine helps in some cases:

    Rattle on engine start

    I guess we were right. Dave and I had this one on our minds from when we first thought about it. Since you are the second person to report that it is being changed under warranty, maybe there is some more hope for others that are getting the issue.

    I dont think it is piston slap, more like a timing chain rattle or maybe something in the vvti mechanism.

    That's what I'm thinking. It seems to be coming from the upper part of the block. It's similar to the sound of that intake control valve closing, but more metallic. It just has me stumped.

    Maybe it really is the VVT-i mechanism. When you see a video animation of it working, you can kind of picture how it can generate a knock/rattle sound if it doesn't have appropriate oil pressure in it.

    The mechanism is like this for those that don't know:

    Having a quick look at the service manual, maybe it ties in with the so called 'lock pin':
    When the engine stops, the intake side VVT-i controller is locked on the most retarded angle side by the lock pin, and the exhaust side controller is locked on the most advanced angle side. This ensures excellent engine startability.

    The oil pressure sent from the advance or retard side path at the intake and exhaust camshaft causes rotation in the VVT-i controller vane circumferential direction to vary the intake valve timing continuously.

    An advanced angle assist spring is provided on the exhaust side VVT-i controller. This helps to apply torque in the advanced angle direction so that the vane lock pin securely engages with the housing when the engine stops.

    When hydraulic pressure is not applied to the VVT-i controller immediately after the engine has been started, the lock pin locks the movement of the VVT-i controller to prevent a knocking noise.

  8. Hi LeonG -

    I've got the same issue as well - most recently, it even had a service as well. It occurred even more often now, as this time round I took it to another place for a 90k km service and i believe they used a different type of oil (makes a difference..?)

    Anyways, there's talk about it in the kluger forums - i've tried the technique Rice Racing posted up and it actually works

    http://au.toyotaowne...up/page__st__15

    Ive tried holding the revs at 2k for a second or two just before I turn the car off, unfortunately the sound still there. Ahhh

    Same as well. I just find an oil and filter change makes the issue go away. It always happens pretty much at the same time for me (~11,000km) so I just see it as a sign that the oil and filter need to be changed if I haven't done so already. I don't see the point in trying to just prevent the issue with that procedure above when the oil is at the point where it should be changed anyways.

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