DJKOR

I likey,nice work mate....but one little touch needed imho,door moulds be gone

Yeah. I agree with Lee here. Now that it is mentioned, they really stand out.... in the not so good way.

My Sportivo with its nylon and neoprene seats were really good at building up a static charge that would always get me. I have two solutions:

1) Get some anti-static clothing spray. You find this at your local supermarket next to all the pantyhose. You simply lightly spray the seats and you are set for a couple of weeks even more.

2) Alternatively, once you get out of the car, swing your hand quickly so that your fingers make quick contact with the black plastic that is part of the door trim that covers the centre pillar. The plastic will add a little bit of resistance to the electric charge that will go from the metal beneath it to your fingers making the discharge a little "softer" and the motion of brushing your fingers past it and making quick contact will mask the feeling of any static discharge.

But he's a Mad Doctor

Anyways, for oil filter I stick with genuine. Works out to be about the same price as a Ryco (which is probably the only other brand I'd consider in a hurry) which you can pick up at Autobarn/Super Cheap Auto/Repco. Had no issues with the genuine one so I always stuck with it.

Oil, I use Penrite oils which I buy from Autobarn.

Air filter.... well I have a K&N reusable and get the supplies for that from Autobarn.

Coolant, I use genuine. Bought direct from Toyota spares. Same goes with the fuel filter... except I got that cheaper on eBay.

Spark plugs... try these guys: http://www.sparkplugauto.com/

May as well get in early.

At the end of the day you have to ask yourself, did you buy the car to love it or did you buy it because it is practical? If all the little things annoy you, then you can either live with it or get rid of it and move on.

I only press the handle 1/2 way so less air gets into my tank.

Stop it. You're killing me.

Want a can of concrete ?

Sell the thing if your unhappy

Wow.

Let's get all defensive now.

I LOL'ed.

Beats the old Aurion boys getting defensive over being FWD

Fk yeah!! Repping the TRD/Aurions man! :). Looks good as. Loving the silver eye lids, where'd you get those??

I constantly scroll up to look at the car... again...... and again . The mod bug hits me hard when I see your car man!

Really testing my memory here but I was fairly sure I got them from Vick (VF-X) not long after I got the car. I had to be sure though so I came across this:

So yes... I got them back in October 2010 from Vick. Got them painted at some auto body place around the corner from home.

I swear, I can't stop looking at my car now.

Been happening nearly every week for as long as I can remember.... as in the last 4 years.

Bump.

DJKOR, is there a way to get this fixed at the mechanics?

Bty thanks for the informative post.

Honestly don't know. I could only explain for your issue if it was based on what I mentioned in my post. Yours seems to be of a different cause. I guess a mechanic could help diagnose it, but I can't say straight up where the issue may be coming from.

Ps your avatar is NWS but HS (Home Safe) lol.

I guess. I still classify it as work safe by today's standards. She still has underwear on

Hi guys. Up for sale are my wheels off my TRD Aurion. I was considering keeping them, but figured that at the end of the day, I would just be wasting space. They come with a set of tyres as well with a reasonable amount of tread left on them.

As I wasn't getting many hits from here or Gumtree, these have now made their way onto eBay. I will no longer be taking any offers from here.

http://cgi.ebay.com....em=300785362046

The wheel specifications are as follows:

Diameter: 19 inches

Width: 8 inches

Offset: + 46.5mm

Stud Pattern: 5x114.3

Tyre Type: Federal 595SS

Tyre Size: 245/35R19

Tyre Speed/Load Rating: 93W

Included with the wheels will be all 4 centre caps as well as a set of wheel nuts suited to the wheels.

There are a few things to note however and these have been factored into my starting price:

- A couple of the wheels have a small bit of gutter rash. You can clearly see this in the high resolution photos.

- The centre caps are missing a couple of tabs on the inside from wear and tear. This doesn't affect their ability to hold onto the wheel, but it does mean a couple of the caps may rotate a bit more freely as the wheels rotate. To get them to hold in the same position, you may need to be a little creative.

- One tyre has a screw in it and will require a puncture repair. I have included a photo to show you where this is. The tyre still holds air however and does not leak. You just need to get the puncture fixed for reliability reasons.

And now for the photos of the goods. If you click on the link below each photo, you can view the full resolution photos to get a good close look at the wheels. Note that each photo is approximately 5MB each.

^ Supersize

^ Supersize

^ Supersize

^ Supersize

^ Supersize

^ Supersize

An example of the level of tread all the tires have:

This would be the screw I was referring to:

^ Supersize

I forgot to clean these ones up before the photo, so I'll scrub the inside of the emblems with a toothbrush for you before you get them:

Does this usually happen when you are parked on an incline? If so, here's something to consider:

May I direct you to this thread. Yes it says 'uphill' in it, but the symptom can be replicated on any surface. Does this sound like your issue?

Clunks into gear when car is uphill

the park gear has a bit of free movement in it, maybe about an inch of movement on the wheels either way, you can test this by parking on a flat surface, putting it in park (no footbrake) then getting out and pushing the car forwards untill it stops, then backwards, and you can see the free play that the park gear has.

when you are engaging the park gear and the footbrake on an incline, you aren't putting the footbrake in enough, and the only thing stopping your car from rolling is the "locking" action of the park gear. so the gears are all jammed together, that is why they clunk out/in to/from gear when on an incline, because it has to force the gears to "unlock"

suggest putting the footbrake on more firmly, i think 3 clicks is not enough, the normal is about 5-7 clicks (check car manual, should be written in there).

When in Park, the transmission engages a pin (or something like that) which holds the gears stationary, effectively locking the drive wheels. If you are on an incline and the weight of the car is on the "pin" there will be more friction on the pin as it disengages. Clunk.

Exactly what Zerko said with respect to a locking pin. It's not actually the effect of any form of gear jamming up as has also been mentioned but its the locking mechanism that all the weight is put on. If you would like to learn more, have a read here:

http://auto.howstuff...nsmission11.htm

Anyways, in posts in the past as well, it has been said by others as well that the Aurion does tend to roll a little backwards after the park brake is applied. This is primarily due to the park brake design. My recommendation when parking on an incline would be as follows:

1) Come to a complete stop.

2) Put car in neutral

3) Engage park brake fully

4) Release normal brake slowly

5) Let car roll back/forward a little. If it rolls too much, you definitely have to get your park brake adjusted.

6) Once your foot is fully off the brake and your car is stopped completely by the park brake, put the shifter into Park.

After I parked my car this morning, I figured I would take a quick snap to show it off in a different environment other than those quick shots in my garage.

On a side note, how convenient that the wheel lined up in the right spot to show the calliper.

Yes, too expensive for what its worth.

Better off buying aurion straight up.

..... Or is it?

engine with supercharger, loom & computer. There is some superficial damage to a few wires but none of it appears broken or missing. Looking at $5500

Now I honestly can't say whether it would *easily* fit or not. Seeing that the Gen 6 Camry in the States (which is pretty much the same as ours) comes with the V6, I would be fairly sure that the space under the hood would be accommodating enough for the 2GR. That said, you would probably have to include the whole subframe (or whatever it is they call it) and the drivetrain as well.

Bloody tops mate, you going to keep the TRD wheels or offload them?

Most likely offload them. I've got the following to consider:

- Will I ever want to return to the stock wheels?

- If I sell the car soon, will the stock wheels make a difference?

My thoughts on these are:

- Most likely not. As much as the stock wheels looked good for a stock wheel, they aren't really anything fancy and when you think of the front brakes, they did a good job of hiding them. Realistically, they worked well for a stock looking car, but at the end of the day, they aren't overly that great. I highly doubt that if I get sick of these wheels, that I would rather return to the factory ones.

- I don't intend on selling the car any time soon but in the event things change, I don't really think the factory wheels are going to give me that much more bargaining power. Considering the car would probably be sold with the coilovers (since the factory shocks are rooted and I wouldn't spend to put a new set on), any loss I'll have from selling it modified would probably not be increased any further with the addition of these wheels.

So yeah. The way I look at it, I don't think it benefits me keeping the stock wheels and I'll just be wasting space.

<snip>

wow ! looks soo good ! im liking this shot alot !

Now that I look at it again.... so do I.

Very nice, maybe some black nuts and black centre caps ? Are they sitting further in than the TRD alloys?

One thing at a time. I don't always throw money at the car (except for fuel). zedder did provide me very generously with some TRD emblems for the centre which fit absolutely perfectly. I'll get around to that when I can.

As for where they sit, the TRD wheels are +46.5mm whereas these are +45mm. On the grand scale of things, they pretty much sit the same.

Edit: They look like this... haven't stuck it on yet, it just sits there perfectly because of its size:

I'm fairly sure as these guys were fairly involved with checking cars for defects. But then again if you get the wrong cop, they can probably throw anything at you and rely on you just agreeing rather than disputing.

As for more HP, this is pretty much the right response:

^Turbo

Otherwise, getting extra power with an NA Camry is going to take some serious dollars. You would probably be better off increasing your power-to-weight by removing weight from the car where ever you can.... if even possible.

Forgot to make a post when it all happened but as planned, last Saturday I got around to finishing off my 150,000km service. This involved changing the radiator fluid and the fuel filter. One thing to note is that the Aurion specifies its first coolant change to occur at 150,000km due to the use of their Super Long Life Coolant (SLLC). I know of some people that really didn't trust this service interval and had theirs changed earlier, however I decided to trust it and see how it went. After draining it, I must say I am quite impressed at how clean it came out. It was pretty much like the day it would have gone in. I filled a bottle and this is pretty much how it looks (a little darker due to the bottle being white):

Also, today I had finally made the change. Follow the next link for all the info:

DJKOR's Aurion - Rev. 2 : Page 20

Soooooooo. I have been pretty hesitant to changing my wheels. Part of me is on the side that says that spending money like that isn't really necessary when it can be saved.... the other part of me wanted to retain the TRD's factory look.

When the right offer comes along though, I guess that's when you start to reassess the current situation. Thanks to a wonderful member of the forum here by the name of "zedder", I have made the change and feel quite great. I've always loved 5-spoke designs and this is certainly one of them.

Engine works smoother and car has better acceleration:)

Sorry to bring you down to reality but unless your stock filter was clogged badly, then what you are experiencing is pretty much a placebo.

My first thought was a round filter but as it is illegal unfortunately in Qld (to be legal I had to enclose it)

Interesting... because my friendly police sources have said that for us here in Queensland, your pod just has to be secured.

We don't cruise that offen these days. I think there is a Celica group around that enjoys their cruising. I don't know how active they are these days though. It was Celica Car Club Brisbane or something along those lines. Can find them on Facebook I believe.

Edit: I can't seem to find them anymore. I think they may no longer be around. Maybe they all moved to bigger and better (?.. LOL) things.

Can't be bothered finding a decent gif this week.

IN

I dunno, but I noticed these guys the other day. Might be interesting to see how good they are if the price from Toyota works out to be a little on the high side:

eBay - TOYOTA AURION GSV40 BONNET 10/06--08/09