RogerP

To my imported 1998 Estima TCR11W G (a factory Supercharged tarago) 1. Exhaust = flow and some sound 2. Plugs and Wires = higher temp than spec (for tropical living) Iridium Denso VK22 or NGK BKR7EIX-11P 3. Suspension, present is soft, not ideal for aussie roads. KYB NewSR Special and new springs maybe, because of where the motor is I don't think I want to lower the Van. 4. Run more earths to engine and exhaust 5. Bigger pulley for Supercharger???

They are pressed in. When I did the Road-worthy for my '93 Van 6 - 7 yrs ago they did the left one and if I remember charged $140 for the bearing and labour was a couple hundred. A few years later the right needed doing and I took it to the wrong workshop and they charged $700, I had bought the bearing at the local bearing shop for $70.

I have the feeling that they can be imported as 'Grey Market', that there is a compliancing yard in Canberra (need to check RAWS). A Hybrid Estima would be great as a City Taxi - to help keep smog down and move lots of people comfortabaly. But all Estima imports have to be complied as a CamperVan (I think Toyota Australia have helped impose this - they don't want competition against the local market)

I bought KYB struts, top plates, stoppers and boots via the USA - Parts for a Previa I should have used a rachet wrench when up behind the dash - I think they are 17mm nuts I bought the spring press locally. If I did it again I would lower it with shorter springs (mine is a van not a bus)

There are a couple of these around the net. http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/g_U_1993_TOYOTA_PREVIA_TCR10L-REMDKA.html http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_1993_TOYOTA_PREVIA_TCR10L-REMDKA_3702.html The big thick thing at the front end is a bearing (they say) and the 3 bolts in front of that should be 'loosened' to help ease the shaft off at the engine end. Someone else started the job for me [there is a write up in a Yahoo group I think] that I read on how - to . when I got the car back and a box of bits, the yoke at the engine end was missing. I ended up finding a parts place in florida USA who sold Sth African built shafts (with yoke and couplings), its cost $300 including postage to bring it in. Its still on the vehicle, but be sure to grease each bolt well. seems that Toyota offer a 14mm whole shaft replacement for over $1,200 for all models, but the 1990 - 1993 have 12mm bolts [Toyota realised that the shaft has issues and maybe why they stopped doing manual versions - too much load on the couplings during gear changes????] Bewary that some people on ebay sell the new couplings for over $500, if you look harder you will find a pair for around $100. This vehicle is known as a Previa around the world, as an Estima in Japan and tarago in australia. You will see Rav4, Camry, Hilux as sharing parts I've done the front struts on mine too, See the KYB site for the differences in the grey and the black (they're both the same) - but you will need a spring press. I put new top plate in and boot covers and stoppers. If I ever get my import, I'll put in shorter springs and lower the van

I began my vehicle search over 1 year ago and was ready to buy this time last year, but paused thinking that the holiday season could cause delays and end up having the vehicle sit on the wharf etc. The sale went through mid February 2012 and the vehicle arrived at the compliancing yard [Qldimports] on March 30 2012. And it is still there, waiting to be complied. The Tarago in my mind is a Van designed with car handling characteristics rather than handling like a truck. My tall frame fits nicely and if need be there is plenting of room to sleep in the back - actually I have carried 2.4x1200 sheets flat on the floor. I like the Tarago, I like it as a Van (not as a bus). My present van had not been well looked after, its got head troubles or something, water was in the oil early on, but I've put kits in. But when its hot and I stop steam and oil seem to vent from the motor - its a horrible smell. in the last couple of months I think that the fuel pump has gone - as it farts and pings during acceleration. I've thought of advancing the TPS - but I cant get a screw driver onto the screws from above. My present car should have retired in July, but I have to keep it going now. I chose to import a 1998 TCR11W with 77,000Km, Supercharged and Woodgrain Dash, this is the 2WD version with independent rear suspension and Captains Chairs in the second row. It has no sun or moon roof (we get enough sun in Qld and who needs an extra 40Kg roof weight). its a pity that those 'Juicey and Sapceship' people immported the Vans and not some car enthusiast who wanted to follow with what the Japs Custom car clubs did to these Vans. I, like so many before me have to have the van turned into a Campervan, sure all I want is a two or 4 seater - but as a custom van, not with stove and bed. Late april I started enquiring with Qldimports as to when my Van would be complied and ready for me to pick up, They said that the inspectors were due next week And every time I rang I have been getting the same reply. They said something about that they were being investigated by the department - RAWS admin. In June I got my Local MP onto it, He got me Mark Tyrrell's phone number at DoTARS/ RAWS admin. Mark said he could not comment about Qldimports - wether or not thay had submitted my Van for compliancing. he said that I should talk to the Principle (Director) at Qldimports Mr Maurice Morrisey. Turns out that Maurice Morrisey is a Barrister and has an email address at the Qld Bar Association. July I wrote to the Qld Office of Fair Trade (OFT) Early August I took a day off work and flew to Brisbane (from Townsville) to see the Van (since its arrival I had not seen it) I had previously 'Google street viewed' Qldimports, I caught the train to South Bne and walked to the yard. I could not see my Van out the front or inside when I walked past, so I went around the back and found it sitting in the rear laneway - in the weather! It still had the white grease marks on the windscreen from shipping and was looking tarnished and dirty. One of the captains Chairs had been unbolted and the seat shroud was on the back row seats and the chair lying on the floor. I told them that I wanted it as a Van, but they said I should regerster it as a 7 seater so as to get better resale value, I said the Van was not for sale, that it was to replace my present dying Van I made contact inside and asked what was happening to my Van, they said they had done work on it and fixed things and that other parts would need to be bought. No expected time of completion could be given, that we were waiting on the department. I rang Mark Tyrrell from outside and someone else from that office advised that I should contact Mr Robert Hogan (the name on the import papers) Mr Hogan bounced my email to Mark Tyrrell. on the way back to the airport OFT rang and said that they would act on my behalf. OFT emailed Mr Maurice Morrisey - the Principle at Qldimports, OFT told me that Mr Morrisey was taken ill and was uncontactable. OFT gave up 2 weeks later, said I did not have a case. Mr Morrisey Rang me a couple of days later asked me to wite him a letter that said I was happy with Qldimports and he said he could have my car done the following week. I've written twice since then. Mr Morrisey had actually written a letter to me and it was enroute when we spoke on the phone. In my letters and when we spoke on the phone I told Mr Morriseyt that OFT had given up and would not persue any further. All through October 'Jenny' the recepetionist/ telephonist said that she had submitted my Van on a number of Occasions, but the deopartment was ignoring it, ignoring the cars and only letting some of the Motorbikes through. It was November that 'Joe' 'who would take all of my calls' said with a fresh voice that it was the department that we were waiting on, the cause of the delays. Then Joe told me that a Coaster Bus had been passed in December, then a Couple of Nissan Cubes were going through. I again tried to explain that this Van was my daily ride, that I needed it to replace my aged van. I wrote to Mr's Hogan and Tyrrell again to see if the process could be hurried in any way, but they've possibly gone on a nice driving holiday while I again sit at home, my life on hold while I contemplate things I could do to these people (physically)

Now I have a spare and spare flexi-joints After searching for the rear yoke I ended up buying a whole new shaft from the states $180 for the shaft and $120 for shipping http://www.driveshaftparts.com/driveshafts...t/prod_144.html

Hi people I'm finding it real hard to find just the Coupling Flange from said shaft It connects and is a part of the front accessories drive shaft It is not the flexible couplings, I have two new ones of these The pictures that I have gathered call it a; Coupling Flange It is at the engine end It is a " Y " yoke with the bearing shaft on it that goes into the end of the shaft, 3 bolts go through the yoke on the shaft through the flexible coupling and then into the coupling flange the other 3 bolts go from the engine side yoke through the flexible coupling and the washers and nuts secure it. So, it is a " Y " yoke that sits at the engine end My previous mechanic lost it, and it is all that is stopping me getting my car on the road I have had offers to do a shaft exchange for $650 AUD, but how can I do an exchange if I haven't got the whole shaft?? I don't have both old flexible couplings - just one why pay freight of a whole shaft in two directions?? If anyone has done a shaft replacement and has an old shaft lying around and is willing to sell me the little " Y " yoke piece please do contact me I am so far searching; Australia New Zealand USA UK and China so don't feel your too far away I will update this as soon as I have the part thanks coupling_flange.bmp expanded_view_of_shaft.bmp coupling_flange_shafted.bmp

The Saga continues The mechanic is sacked he came round to pull the accessory shaft off he didn't want to follow the recommended method document found at yahoo Previa group, insisting that he new better and mocking me for the suggestion He undid the bolts on the rear flexi joint and told me to rock the accessories forward so that he could use some levers to lever the shaft off the front of the engine when it was finally to the side it was noticed that the front flexi joint was also broken, so that too was unbolted and the whole shaft removed. No paint marks were set Then to unseat the sleeves from the "y" yokes he hit a screw driver blade onto each sleeve [the recommended method of putting a philips style screw driver down each sleeve and rotating around and around seemed to work well for me on the bits remaining] This work was done on the back of his tray-back ute He took one Flexi-joint and I kept one - so that we could use them when sourcing replacements. he went soon after, this was about 2 weeks ago. I bought the replacement flexi-joints off eBay, two aluminum rings with the rubbers and nine bolts for about $90 Aust. I went to put them on last week and found that there was a part missing The book calls it a "Coupling Flange" it is the small "Y" yoke that sits at the engine end (rear of the shaft) it has the bearing that slides up into the shaft - what the rubber ring and grease mate to. I remember seeing on the tray back, but don't remember where it the went, I have all the other bits - I think. On the PDF "SADS TSB - Coupling Kit" DL001-00 The Toyota Technical Service BULLETIN November 3, 2000 you can see it in the exploded view on page - 1, at the bottom of page 4, at the bottom of page 6, page 7 shows it being put back together, Strange thing happened when I found the part missing the mechanic rang demanding settlement, it was meant to be $100 but was taken to $150 for the shaft repair - removal and install. But he was demanding the full $150 even though he had not completed the job - (nor would I let him) He said I could have the parts back if I paid and that I would not be getting a receipt. I thought parts - plural - he had the missing bit, so I agreed He said in 6 hours time so I waited, when he showed he only showed the flexi joint, I asked about the coupling flange, he said he didn't have it. I said give me the flange (in-case he found it) and I'd pay It has still not surfaced. So, I need one for my '93 tarago Repco have quoted something close to $300, but I'm sure the shop assistant let the supplier dictate what I wanted. I've emailed most wreckers and am still waiting for replies I can email the pictures if you think you can help give the subject Tarago Pictures Wanted send to max_e_mum at hotmail dot com

I remember reading somewhere like http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Special:Search&a...d&src=ansTT [just remember that they are only called Tarago in Australia - the rest of the world knows them as a Previa] that the whistling comes from the exhaust system and affects many Previa's

I'm no mechanic, but when you talk about the heater and yet the temp stays low? could the answer be - water pump does the engine smell hot? they seem to burn oils more etc, plastics smell/ get hot etc

Under the bonnet there was a wire running directly from the battery to the AC compressor, the now sacked mechanic asked how cold was the A/C - to which I had no real answer as I had not run it much. Last weekend I decided to take a look at the condenser - the A/C radiator in the fire wall - where the cold air is created. There was about only a third of open radiator showing, the rest was packed full of a dirt oil and lint mixture. I took the instructions from the very helpful previa group at yahoo, a place where Tarago/ Previa owners help each other ( not like here where a few corolla owners try to answer the questions.) I diverge I'm just waiting on the flexi-joints (nothing to do with CV's for those non Tarago/ Previa owners). The gearbox-mount damage was just under the top plate and has no dirt in it - confirming my suspicion that the sacked mechanic did it when he fixed the clutch. The silly thing is that the crack in normal operation had compression against it from the weight of the box/ engine.

I'm told that if my 1993 Tarago came out with 215/65-15, then that is what I have to have on the car? Not the 205/65-15 that are there? Can someone enlighten me

So now that I've ordered the Sway Bar Link Rods (front) from Fulcrums for $38. each, I'm now wondering how much of what I've already paid for has had inflated prices! $900 for parts and $300 for labour, if parts were doubled, thats $750 in labour/ cream I've been across to "http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/previa/files/" and read that the aux shaft is worked on while still on the vehicle, but a bit different to how we/ he did it. I sent the document over to him. I am buying the Ebay bushes kit for $85.90 AUD including postage In buying my own parts I've managed to save alot, prices quoted by mechanic were $140 for the Rods, and 2 times $180 for the bushes kit [loose rubber, me needing to press the old out and the new in] = $460, my prices = $161 - a $300 saving

(front) Sway Bar Link Rods Pedders 424277 and 424278 $55 each, or their universal Rods 424218 (cut to size) also $55 each Fulcrum LP-8122 and LP-8123 $38. each Drive Shaft Prop Coupling Bush Kit Toyota 04374-28010 Ebay, Chinese via USA I think Right hand Gear Box mount,

No, I mean Drive Shaft Prop Coupling Bush Kit Toyota 04374-28010 AUX SHAFT COUPLINGS SET http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...cTODAY.m238.lVI

Cancel this call I've now got headrests.

There was a bit of Déjà vu last Wednesday 30-4-08 after reading the report of my failed Roadworthy, the rear Flexible coupling failed - was seen to be cracked. (more on this below) Also, remember how my mechanic had put in the clutch that the previous owner bought and gave to me as part of the sale, and that it was the wrong one, so my mechanic had to pull the box out a second time. Well it would seem that the gearbox mount is now cracked and it's going to cost me around $140 to replace that part. I bought the car home after the roadworthy, the estimate at the time was around $940 more to fix it all at that Garage. The rear headrests were on the list - but we new we might fail with them. Qld Transport wanted me to fit a compliance Plate if I removed the rear seats. The mechanic and I construed that if we fold the back seats down/ up they may be overlooked. I didn't check the vehicle when we dropped it off. Folded down it was very noticeable that headrests needed to be fitted - like in your face. I took one of the headrests from the middle row down to my nearest wrecker and 30 minutes later and $40 I had a set for the rear seat. They're Grey, not an exact fabric match, but they fit - what more can they ask of me. Because the rear seats was folded down they seemed loose, so that was another failure point. Also on the list were the Sway Bar Link Rods - their boots had perished. I bought the car home after the roadworthy and started doing some of the dismantling to try and save costs. In the future when I save more money I pay for a paint job, as the car suffers badly from clear coat cancer. I've spread soft wax over the paint cancer - where the clear coat has peeled and it looks 100% over what was - the colour near match's the paint that still has clear coat on it. Some of the black has faded so using a black kill-Rust I've "tidied up" where it needs it. I borrowed some spanners and managed to get the Sway Bar Link Rods off. The car has the Engine repair book, so I was following the instructions for removing the utilities drive shaft, but was finding the removal of the four bolts (stage 4) from the belt housing - which is in front of the shaft, extremely hard. I found this all rather strange as I would have thought that all of the bolts would needed to have come out when the mechanic fixed the bearing in the shaft. I wondered how he could have done the job without removing the shaft, I wonder if in fixing the bearing the rear flexi-joint broke? My mechanic arrived to get more money from me to buy parts today, and told me that to replace the flexi joint we only need take the 3 bolts that goes through the joint and with the shaft still attached at the front we can repair the rear joint. But he found it hard to get the shaft in a position to work on no matter how much twisting and levering was done. So he turned to detach the front joint and found that it too was cracked. Both joints were all but destroyed in getting the shaft out. So now I have to buy two flexi-joints, his quoted price is $180 each. There goes my thought that I might have the car registered by the Friday the 9th May His price for new Sway Bar Link Rods is $140 for the pair The total spend is $620 in parts before the next Roadworthy it would seem In my mind it should have only been the Sway Bar Link Rods and headrests etc - around $200 worth of repairs. Questions arising: a 1993 Manual Tarago/ Previa *can the rubbers be removed and replaced in the flexi-joint? *How much would/ should this cost? *Where do I get the parts for this? (does previa.com do international?) *Does all of the equipment housing stuff need to be dismantled to get the shaft in and out etc? Other suggestions

The Toyota Quote on Genuine replacement Headrests are $102 each None of the Townsville wreckers have headrests, I got a quote via email this morning from autowreck.net.au (Sydney) for $100, not including freight. I know how to use a shifter, so you think I can do the flexi-joint myself, the update part price for that is around $180. Where they are getting it from I don't know The Gear box mount is coming in at between $106 and $139 new, again unknown where from. The Sway Bar Link Rods at $122 new My mechanic says that the boots are cracked and that he might be able to just put new boots on, if he can avoid damaging the rods ball joint when taking them out. My Mechanic is now telling me that the rack is loose and he thought we may have been pulled up on that too, he says he can do just the ends, not put in a refurbished unit, if that is an issue next time. Labour costs from my mechanic on these repairs are be quoted at $50, so it's now about sourcing the parts at decent prices

I was driving around in a 1982 Commodore Vacationer Wagon (VC) I could carry stuff, but I want to do Media Streaming, as opposed to other Vans, the Tarago is sound proofed, is 4cyl and good aerodynamics etc The VC rego ran out on March 9 '08 The Tarago was on the market for $4,500. I went and saw it on March 15, I took a mechanic that I new who said he was working at a local repair shop, I paid him $60. He did what I thought was a thorough going over of the car, we took it for a drive and the mechanic said it would cost $1000 to get it on the road. I made a low offer to the owner of $2,500 citing low money and repair costs, he offered the car to me for $2,300. which I took. The deal was done at the mechanics house on 20th March 2008. The previous owner had bought a clutch kit, timing chain, and brake pads and shoes, these were left in the car at the time of the sale as part of the deal. The mechanic wanted money for parts, so I gave the $100 in my pocket. The following weekend I gave the mechanic another $500, March 26 Of the said/ known repairs that needed to be done was to fix leaks in the rear axel on both sides, the bearing on the SAD shaft - even though as I said to him most of my research showed that it was the flexible couplings on the SAD that need repairing when noise is heard coming from that area. There were other oil leaks coming from the engine (head gasket was replaced in the end), oil lines to the front brakes, all filters, wiper blades ... My Mother Died on the 29 March, so I flew back to NZ for 3 days spending my repair money plus more from a loan, before departing telling the mechanic not to start the registration cycle etc. By April 19 the Car was still not finished, the mechanic citing that he had been off fixing other peoples cars and equipment. He started telling me how the clutch that had been given to us was the wrong one there was a 10mm difference, more than likely off the 4WD version he said. getting his parts place to take it as an exchange on the correct part cost me a restocking fee of $56 I reminded the mechanic that a month had passed and the car was till not finished. On April 21 he said all that needed to be done was get 2 new tyres, so I gave the mechanic $200 to buy 2 new 205/65 tyres for the 15" rims , I said spend $100 on name brands, but he spent $80 on each for Korean tyres. Reluctantly I paid the mechanic $250 of $373 in settling the account (total will be $1,333. including 10hrs labour @ $35hr) thinking that the saga would be over and that I can get my car. The plan was that today (Tuesday 28/04/08) we would get the car registered. I went and bought my CTP insurance at 9.30am, we then drove the car from his place to the garage that I thought he worked at for the Roadworthy inspection, a booking hadn't actually been made, but the garage said it should be done in about 3 hours. I got back early and the car had failed. The rear drivers side gearbox mount was cracked - can get a screw driver into the gap The flexi joint on the SAD shaft at the engine end was perished The rear headrests and the sway bar link rods need replacing The thought that came to mind was that the gearbox mount and SAD were things that were meant to have been fixed and or OK. The garage said that they might be able to get the headrests for $155 The mechanics quote on fixing this is the gearbox mount will cost $120 The flexi joint $180 and about $30 ea for the rods plus labour (guessing 2hrs = $70) $580 for this repairs or $1,913 total - only $913 over the original verbal quote I'm now wondering if a garage could have done the work for less and I would have a warranty on those repairs eg no engine mount or SAD shaft extra costs etc One thing is known, I won't have the car registered this week, and the CTP insurance ticks on at about $20 a day

To get the car registered I have to have headrest on the rear seats So, Qld Transport tells me (yes it came with them) I don't seem to be able to find any in Townsville, Nth Qld I have a Grey material trim, (the paint is 3H8 - burgundy pearl) If I just remove the rear seats I have to pay for a compliance plate to say the the seats have been removed. I've measured the pillar post width, I'm sure I measured 150mm apart centre to centre Are all Toyota headrests different? Does the year matter? Does the model matter? Please, anyone with an idea, other than $200+ AU for genuine new parts. Some ideas where to look? Thank you Roger

Something I noticed today (my next post) is that the decal work has "Elite" What I do know is rear wishbones electric windows tilt lever on left side of steering column dual AC My next post is asking if anyone knows where to get 2x rear headrests

Just bought a 1993, the seller said it was a GLx, the mechanic says its a GLi It was registered as being Red It has electric windows I'm not sure about the rear suspension I think (it's not here) that it has drums on the rear Is their a brochure/ page that I can reference the specs against somewhere? It's (paint) clear coat is falling off in places, especially the roof Being an old car near the end of its life, and as with all my old cars I do D.I.Y. repairs to keep it looking nice without breaking the bank. What is the DIY way of fixing the paint? I was thinking (hoping to find) of getting some matched spray packs to boost the colour where needed, then more packs of clear. My worry/ thought is the edges of the clear thats still there - should I try and feather the edges or will the new blend in un-noticeably? Once I get the receipt from the mechanic I'll post the parts list and see if your prices equal what I've paid Thanks