DreadAngel

Like in most cars, it is showing a bit more than you're doing. I don't know why they do this, probably to prevent speeding. We'll, that's one stupid idea to fight the speeding. People should know EXACTLY how fast are they going, and make their decisions by themselves.

My ZRE is showing approx. 3km more, that's why I'm usually keeping my speedo arrow at +5-10km over the PSL. In Finland you get a ticket only when going like 10 or more km/h over the PSL, so even when I'm going 110 according to my speedo in the area of 100, I'm safe. Don't know if you have zero speeding tolerance in your country, but by doing 5km over PSL you'll be safe for sure!

Hey now, Finnish people have a crazy driver training/education system that Australia wish it could achieve... No speed limit for you fellas XD Jks jks about that bit =P

I don't think anything <90RON existed...

Sweet, good to see Andrew.

Is there a carwash or somewhere to wash the car around Castle Hill Toyota or Crowne Plaza Norwest Sydney?

There is one attached the the Shell on Norwest Bvd in Baulkham Hills.

HERE

It seems popular during the day when I walk past it for lunch.

Its popular all the time, you get all sorts in and around there hahaha...

There is a carwash @ Dural Hungry Jacks too ;)

Don't be soft, get MX72s...

If you do push your car then 500deg may not be enough for the front (majority of the braking is done by the front) but if you don't then should be fine for civil driving.

D2 Coilovers from experience are severely underdampened ie the shocks aren't up to the task of dampening the stiff springs hence why the softest setting still feels stiff and the hardest setting feels even stiffer. In my old EG, I had them on the soft setting, the car kept bouncing around and rock backward and forward after breaking or during cornering despite adjusting the dampers. I was given that setup, promptly after 3 days switched them out to my ITR setup, much better.

The Advan RG knock-offs would look nice, but prefer legit ;)

I was given D2 Coilovers before... Used them for perhaps one week then swapped back to my ITR setup...

Enough said from my POV...

Stivo's front end that loose?! If a Front Strut does that much difference o.O

If you don't want the car to give you lift off oversteer happiness/browness then you have to match the rear sway with the appropriate front sway. Mismatched sways give you either chronic understeer, exciting and excessive lift off oversteer or generally a misery to drive =) You'll have to speak with people that have setups to find the right setup for you ;)

OEM vs Exedy OEM is similar...

What about the shifting problems will these still occur with the exedy one?

I'm unsure with your model, wasn't a problem when I replaced my factory clutch with the Exedy OEM :)

@ Terryo - Last time I checked, Exedy was Japanese =P

My old TRD High Response Ver.S Catback was very mild in the sound department (good for keeping the police away) but produce a soothing note :)

Lantis Type-S actually does have the Ford Cosworth type Boot spoiler, part of the "Touring Kit" lol

I'm surprised you found something other than a Proton lol =P

OEM vs Exedy OEM is similar...

Madrox, contact Exedy directly, they're cheaper than going through a dealer/distributor/3rd party :)

Their number is on their website :)

If the car isn't going to be pushed hard or heavily modified, then no real point getting heavy clutch kit unless you friend likes having a heavy clutch then that's just personal taste. Exedy OEM replacement is cheap and its great for easy driving.

^^^

If your cam selection isn't correct, it won't do anything for you... If you go for cams that can stretch that far, you'll lose all sorts of response and economy, not to mention your car won't be discrete so you'll inevitably attract all sorts of attention, not what you really want these days...

Completely pointless, get a MR2 specific one designed for the car, otherwise you'll seriously mess up the car...

Its more feasible to sell the car and buy a manual, conversions rarely worth it unless its factory Auto only say like the ST246 Caldina GT-Four which came Auto would a manual conversion be worth it...

Its not as simple as a respray...

Do you want to do exterior only? Do you want to respray interior too?

What type of finish do you want (High Gloss, Metallic, Pearlescent, Candy, etc)? How good of a job you want? etc etc...

Best to contact various shops to get quotes and recommendations from forum members/friends that have had their cars painted. 2K/3K jobs I've seen are **** fyi...

TRD Suspension kits are good but very expensive (They're TRD after all) if possible, look for alternatives cause TRD Suspension are made I think by KYB... ;)

Looking at the specs of the QFM pads, they seem to be pretty reasonable specs, the co-efficiency seems a little higher than others but I wonder what compound is it made of? Are they semi-metallic? Carbon? Non-Asbestos? :)

I've got Endless MX72 on the front, they're brilliant :) If you look at their specs, its 50 - 700deg temp range, Average Coefficient of Friction 0.37 - 0.47, better than most regarding brake dust, brake fade, Controlability and pedal feel. This is compared to the major JDM brands like Project Mu, WinMax and ACRE. I've also tried Brembo and Bendix. Endless kills most them in almost every department (when comparing relevant series)

^^^

Very very true, only trust rebuilds carried out by Rotary experts and even then some of their reputations don't precede them...

1000km service is not in the service manual, its just like a post flight check, make sure all is in order :)

How deep are the scratches? Are they surface scratches or they're deep past the clear coat and paint onto bare metal?

bargain yes, dusty yes...

I have these front and back, with dba slotted fronts... works well i must say.. BUT only once its failed me, after a workout on the brakes it went really soft and pedal hit the floor...

i prob wont go trd again, but something different... wont be for a while tho... cars a weekend drive

If you want to know why that happened, the Black series are only rated for Street use, if you look at the co-efficiency (μ=0.48～0.32) and temp rating (500℃) you can easily tell it won't even last you a few laps of all out track or spirited driving (depending of course how good a driver you are too cause the better you are obviously use less brakes but you can't defy physics). If you want TRD pads that are good for both street and spirited driving then look at the TRD Red series which has higher temp rating BUT the co-efficiency is higher so it'll wear out both itself and your rotors quicker ;)

Found a "To Heart" Edition and a stock PFL version but nothing exactly the same as my car lol :(

Old rotaries are unreliable but the later 13B seems to be more reliable as long as you treat it nicely (I mean extra nicely like not forgetting Valentine's Day, Wedding Anniversary, etc) and don't do anything too crazy, it'll be reliable :)