Jump to content


Aurion Fuel Economy

Advanced ICE
 Share

Recommended Posts

zr6 Enthusiast

zr6

Posted
Posted

Mine has done almost 5K in a combination of 75% city and 25% highway driving. Average from 9.9L to 10.4L.

  • 2 weeks later...
Adrian Proficient

Adrian

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

Got mine (Sx6) down to 7.3L/100km, on a flat country road with "Vortex 98" @ 110km/hr after traveling for 2hrs, thats what the computer tells me anyway.

Well, at least im happy anyway.

Adrian


dannywss Grand Master

dannywss

Posted
Posted

mine sx6 as well, always 10.3l/100km. cant get any lower... should i stop speeding? haha

saintly Grand Master

saintly

Posted
Posted

y'all doing better than what I'm doing... 13.5l/100km. About 3k :/

dannywss Grand Master

dannywss

Posted
Posted

If u just pump yr petrol, its like 18lt/100km, then it starts going down when driven for 50-100km~

I used to drive camry sportivo05, comparing petrol consumption, no much difference (in my opinion, as camry's acceleration is slow and i need to push it more to go faster.. mb overload by my woofer and my weight? AHAHA!JK~) for conclusion, aurion doesnt really eat A LOTTT of petrol, for 3.5 V6

Camry VS AURION? I love aurion more if i have custom made body kit on them~ ^^

Macka Advancing

Macka

Posted
Posted

On a recent road trip 1400km with a new SX6 we got 7.8/100 against a stock XR6T 10/100. overall we thought the SX6 was a great car good build quality . The SX6 pulled 1/2 car on the T for 1st 60ft from lights untill boost powered on. Prob due to 6sp agaist 4 sp auto's.And held it's own also in the overtaking lanes as well.

muzcarley Progessing

muzcarley

Posted
Posted

On a recent road trip 1400km with a new SX6 we got 7.8/100 against a stock XR6T 10/100. overall we thought the SX6 was a great car good build quality . The SX6 pulled 1/2 car on the T for 1st 60ft from lights untill boost powered on. Prob due to 6sp agaist 4 sp auto's.And held it's own also in the overtaking lanes as well.

muzcarley

Ive changed my exhaust, 10 x 5 megaflow s/s muffler gives a real punch city 8.3

i would change just for the sound and improved performance

dannywss Grand Master

dannywss

Posted
Posted

On a recent road trip 1400km with a new SX6 we got 7.8/100 against a stock XR6T 10/100. overall we thought the SX6 was a great car good build quality . The SX6 pulled 1/2 car on the T for 1st 60ft from lights untill boost powered on. Prob due to 6sp agaist 4 sp auto's.And held it's own also in the overtaking lanes as well.

muzcarley

Ive changed my exhaust, 10 x 5 megaflow s/s muffler gives a real punch city 8.3

i would change just for the sound and improved performance

PICS PICS!!! very interested with the mufflers you change!!! please~~

Adrian Proficient

Adrian

Posted
Posted

Me too, Im interested.

How does it sound ?? I don't usually like the sound of a six clynder.

Thanks in advance

Adrian

muzcarley Progessing

muzcarley

Posted
Posted

On a recent road trip 1400km with a new SX6 we got 7.8/100 against a stock XR6T 10/100. overall we thought the SX6 was a great car good build quality . The SX6 pulled 1/2 car on the T for 1st 60ft from lights untill boost powered on. Prob due to 6sp agaist 4 sp auto's.And held it's own also in the overtaking lanes as well.

muzcarley

Ive changed my exhaust, 10 x 5 megaflow s/s muffler gives a real punch city 8.3

i would change just for the sound and improved performance

PICS PICS!!! very interested with the mufflers you change!!! please~~

Here are the pix u wanted to see

saintly Grand Master

saintly

Posted
Posted

thanks for the pic... the muffler actually looks OK!

muzcarley Progessing

muzcarley

Posted
Posted

thanks for the pic... the muffler actually looks OK!

Muzcarley

check this out today see pix on the F3

murray

thanks for the pic... the muffler actually looks OK!

Muzcarley

check this out today see pix on the F3

murray

post-4031-1177581722_thumb.jpg

dannywss Grand Master

dannywss

Posted
Posted

huh? why only tat amount? i mean for the fuel consumption... mine nowadays stuck with 10.7-11.5 hrm.... i m pushing too much? ahh, who cares, aurion is soo fun to drive^^

saintly Grand Master

saintly

Posted
Posted

that's excellent!

maybe I'll make that my first mod

Adrian Proficient

Adrian

Posted
Posted

6.8L/100km, OMG, look out Hyundi Gets

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing



  • Join The Club

    Join the Toyota Owners Club and be part of the Community. It's FREE!

  • Latest Postings

    1. 18

      High idling on the 2zzge even when warm (solved!)

      i am in sydney, just got 1992 tarago, same problem, 2k idle speed when engine warm, changed the whole throttle body, ECU, still same, help pls in sydney 0405987988
      moxabest in Corolla / Corolla Sportivo Club
    2. 5

      High RPM Idle after the engine warm up.

      i have same problem, already changed throttle body, ecm modle, help pls
      moxabest in Inside and Out
    3. 0

      Tow bar

      Hi guys, Just bought my new Landcruiser Prado yesterday. What is the difference between Onroad Towner and Off road Towbar
      Kiru in Prado Club
    4. 3

      Disconnecting winch, lightbar and UHF

      Generally, yes. In the 60s, and earlier, there were cars with positive grounds, so I'm always a bit hesitant to say the negative wire. It is always the one that bolts to the body. Herb
      ozieagle in Landcruiser Club
    5. 0

      2011 Land Cruiser 1VD-FTV Engine Won't Start After Overhaul

      Hi everyone, I have a 2011 Land Cruiser VDJ200 with a 1VD-FTV engine. I recently had the engine fully overhauled due to a blown head gasket. However, after the overhaul, the engine is not starting. It only cranks but doesn't fire. I've checked the following DTC codes: Internal memory EEPROM error Low rail pressure The actual rail pressure data shows: 240 bar during cranking 61 bar when ignition is off Based on these findings, I suspect the following potential causes: =Defective Diesel High-Pressure Pump =Leaking Piezoelectric Injectors =Diesel Fuel Bypassing to the DPF Circuit =Faulty Injector Drivers I'm hoping for some expert advice to help diagnose and resolve this problem I'm seeking expert advice on how to troubleshoot and resolve this issue. Any suggestions or guidance would be greatly appreciated.
      kevin200 in Landcruiser Club
    6. 3

      Disconnecting winch, lightbar and UHF

      Okay this might be dumb but it the ground the negative?
      citrus__grove in Landcruiser Club
    7. 3

      Disconnecting winch, lightbar and UHF

      Disconnecting batteries, ALWAYS disconnect the ground wire first. Doing this will also disconnect power, in general. Herb
      ozieagle in Landcruiser Club
    8. 3

      Disconnecting winch, lightbar and UHF

      Hey guys, I’m wanting to disconnect my current winch, lightbar and UHF as I have new plans. I’ve installed a winch previously on another car so I get it’s a case of following the cables and disconnecting from the battery, etc but but safety wise, should I start by disconnecting the battery so the cables aren’t live orrrr? And if so how do it go this haha?
      citrus__grove in Landcruiser Club
    9. 1

      Snapping wheel and axle studs

      Put a set of standard wheels on it and your problem will disappear. It is critical that the hole in the wheel centre is a snug fit on the axle boss (without wheel nuts fitted). If your wheels are sloppy on the axle boss this allows excess force on your wheel studs and they will break, as yours are doing. If you are unsure of what to do, go to a reputable tyre shop and get assistance.
      32V8 in Landcruiser Club
    10. 0

      2zz idle / roughness when accelerating past 3k

      Hey everyone was hoping someone might be able to point me in the right direction with this issue I've been facing for a while now. My Celica's idle will drop down to almost 200rpm when stationery after hitting operating temperature. Pretty much feels like it's about to stall out but never actually does. When taking off from a set of lights it almost feels like it hesitates or is down on power and then all of a sudden it lurches forward and gets a boost in power again. Then again around 1,500-3,000rpm it feels down on power and in what I can only describe in the engine feeling scratchy. Past 3,000 rpm it gets a little boost in power again but still definitely feels down on power compared to what it used to be and still has that roughness. Note lift is also not working at the moment but I have changed the lift bolts, planning on cleaning the VVT and VVTL-i OCV's New engine mounts have been installed I changed the MAF sensor about 4 years ago albeit not OEM. After doing some research my main ideas now would be a New MAF this time OEM, TPS, IACV or Coil Packs (Changed plugs 50,000km ago) Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!! :)
      ik04 in Celica Club
×
×
  • Create New...

Forums

News

Membership