7afe or sivertop???

[skep]

hi guys, i was wondering if anyone would be able to help me out, i've got a 7afe 1.8L in my ae102r and i was originaly thinking of swaping for a silvertop 20v. i would eventually be turbo'ing the engine and i was thinking if anyone ha advise on which engine would be better to do up, all internals and turbo and front mount etc.

would the 7afe be better and its a 1.8L (bigger capacity) and able to have a bigger turbo andhold more boost??

or is the silvertop better as it has 4 extra valves? yet it is a smaller capacity engine..

please do help!!! i need to spend my cash on my car's engine before my girlfriend knows i have that large amount!!

ahhahahahaha

thanks guys

[SILVABULLIT]

Silvertop FTW!!!!

[CHA54]

put an AE101 4AGZE frontcut into your car if your end goal is turbocharging. Then when the time comes, replace the inlet manifold with a 4age item, thrown on the turbo setup and you're good to go. Stronger clutch, gearbox, driveshafts, pistons, bigger injectors, ECU and injectors that can handle 14psi etc etc all taken care of.

[IAN20V]

nothing wrong with 20v turbo provided its done right, i'm in the middle of building a 20v turbo....

if you dont do any internal work to the motor than dont boost past 6psi....

but i would reccomend that if you opt for the 20v, rebuild the bottom end at minimum with low comp pistons and shot peened rods...

even better use ur 7a block with 20v head....1.8L 20v turbo!

[CHA54]

...and dont forget the other items you'll require for a reliable turbo 20V on top of the bottom end rebuild... custom plenum, bigger sidefeed injectors, aftermarket ECU, stronger gearbox, stronger clutch, stronger driveshafts, etc etc etc etc.

Works out a hell of a lot cheaper to turbo an AE101 GZE cut and you end up with a nice LSD E series box.

Edited November 13, 2007 by rollamods

[skep]

...and dont forget the other items you'll require for a reliable turbo 20V on top of the bottom end rebuild... custom plenum, bigger sidefeed injectors, aftermarket ECU, stronger gearbox, stronger clutch, stronger driveshafts, etc etc etc etc.

Works out a hell of a lot cheaper to turbo an AE101 GZE cut and you end up with a nice LSD E series box.

just how much do you think i can get a half cut of a ae101 gze and where the hell would i find one???

dw bout labour costs i'll be doing all the work myself

[scrolla]

try your local toyota wreckers they range from about $2000 up, just make sure you get either ae92 or ae101 cos they have a map sensor not afm like older models,

also have a look on http://www.toymods.net/content/ they have heaps of info and even parts for sale like trubos and manifolds for your application

[skep]

really...

wouldnt it be cheeper to do up my engine? 7AFE? also its bigger capacity.. allowing for bigger turbo and more boost?? am i right? or wrong?

[t-rex]

if i was u and had a bit of money i would buy a map sensored 4agze and chuck a 20v blacktop head on it and it will go like a zirtec.

that would be my first option.

second would be a 7age 20v turbo but thats alot more work, you would have to do all the internals and everything.

go the number 1 option.

[CHA54]

to "do up" your current motor for a turbo...

Argo Rods - $1400

Bearing set - $200

Forged pistons with rings, 20mm gudgeon - $800-1200

MHG - $160

Injectors - $200-600

Aftermarket ECU & loom - $1500

Dyno tune - $400-700

Turbo back exhaust $800-900

Intercooler and pipework $500

Turbo manifold $450

Turbo $250-1200

Turbo oil and waterlines $200

E series LSD box and shafts $600

HD custom clutch to suit $350

Walbro fuel pump $170

Machining of block $100ish

ARP head and main studs $300

Genuine full gasket kit $170

Waterpump $140

Oil, filter, fuel filter, coolant etc ~$150

Radiator service $80

Then you might aswell put a GE head on it to get the most out of the setup, so purchase either a 16V or 20V long motor from the jap importers for $400-800

If using the 20V add another bunch of $$$ for the fabrication of custom inlet plenum

That comes close enough to $10K using the lowest costs in the list.... but it would be a bulletproof setup and make more power than you could use on the street. If you need someone to assemble the motor etc then add a bunch more labour

an AE101 GZE frontcut with smallport 4age inlet manifold, custom turbo manifold, WRX TD04L, 7MGTE injectors controlled by emanage blue on the stock MAP sensored 4agze ECU will do ~170kw atw for a hell of a lot less money.

[skep]

to "do up" your current motor for a turbo...

Argo Rods - $1400

Bearing set - $200

Forged pistons with rings, 20mm gudgeon - $800-1200

MHG - $160

Injectors - $200-600

Aftermarket ECU & loom - $1500

Dyno tune - $400-700

Turbo back exhaust $800-900

Intercooler and pipework $500

Turbo manifold $450

Turbo $250-1200

Turbo oil and waterlines $200

E series LSD box and shafts $600

HD custom clutch to suit $350

Walbro fuel pump $170

Machining of block $100ish

ARP head and main studs $300

Genuine full gasket kit $170

Waterpump $140

Oil, filter, fuel filter, coolant etc ~$150

Radiator service $80

Then you might aswell put a GE head on it to get the most out of the setup, so purchase either a 16V or 20V long motor from the jap importers for $400-800

If using the 20V add another bunch of $$$ for the fabrication of custom inlet plenum

That comes close enough to $10K using the lowest costs in the list.... but it would be a bulletproof setup and make more power than you could use on the street. If you need someone to assemble the motor etc then add a bunch more labour

an AE101 GZE frontcut with smallport 4age inlet manifold, custom turbo manifold, WRX TD04L, 7MGTE injectors controlled by emanage blue on the stock MAP sensored 4agze ECU will do ~170kw atw for a hell of a lot less money.

if i buy a 16v or 20v long motor from jap importers, wont i still need to work the internals?? or can the engine handle the turbo?

also does the 20v simply slip straight in... no mucking around and changing engine mounts n ****?

wat i was going to do with my car was.. keep the 7afe and do the cams.. full exhaust system from engine and then turbo..

and if my engine goes does the track.. then get a 20v.. because atm my engine is like brand new from the shop.. its running perfect.. i got my car of an old guy (bout 80yrs) and he bought it from toyota brand new and never changed gears over 2.5 rpm so its still good...

[CHA54]

you would buy the long motor's just for the head, cams, intake, fuel rail, distributor, ancillaries, crank pulley and crank sprocket. The other bits to build the 7A short motor are in my post.

Slapping in a 150,000km+ silvertop 20V is not worth it IMO. Don't be fooled by the claims that import motors have low K's. AE101 20V's range from 13-16 years old now, it's not uncommon to see examples from japan with more than 200,000km on them before they're ripped out of the donor car or the speedo changed.

Edited November 15, 2007 by rollamods