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Swaybar nuts


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Evening,

The front swaybar spat out the nut today. It was tightened up etc etc. Is the positioning of the swar bar link section on the coilover the cause of this? Just after some opinions. The thread on the bolt still seems to be fine.

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I'm buying a new nut today. I want to believe that my old man tightened everything back up, but I'm having doubts. The suspension place said that it must have been loose. I trust my dad thought that's the thing. He's been meticulous his entire life. Fair enough everyone makes mistakes, but it's just not like him.

Anyway, the actual ride height was only changed by 5mm literally. I think due to only one side being raised and adjusted, the sway was loaded up heavily on the left side. I'll be jacking it up this afternoon and rechecking both sides, letting the sway bar hang freely and going from there.

Additionally, I was told that the swaybar link should be left where it is (as I only moved it marginally to compensate for the ride height change), as sway bars are always required to have some load on them?

That's where I stand at the moment though. Any feedback is hereby classified as 'awesome' by Nelson.

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yes sway abrs should have some form of load on them mainly when the car has all wheels on the ground. Like I said to you the other night you should be able to put the sway bar links into the mount by hand with minor effort. You shouldn't have to get it in a "half nelson"(you like that play on words eh ??LOL) and strain like there's gonna be a mess in your pants real soon to get into the mount. Hope this helps mate.

as always carry on......

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I'm buying a new nut today. I want to believe that my old man tightened everything back up, but I'm having doubts. The suspension place said that it must have been loose. I trust my dad thought that's the thing. He's been meticulous his entire life. Fair enough everyone makes mistakes, but it's just not like him.

I believe he may have. The thing with suspension is it moves, so after any work has been done the bolts and nuts and whatever else was touched needs to be checked after a few hundred km, sooner if odd noises are present afterwards.

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These bolts are not known to come loose, so the nut must not have been fully tightened. It is very difficult to achieve the correct tension on this nut because the threaded section tends to rotate. The manufacturer has added a 4mm inhex to retain the threaded section whilst tightening the nut. Put the nut on and tighten as much as you can, then fit hex key through spanner into centre and tighten nut to correct torque.

Dad says if u want, come past work and he will check and fix it for you for free rather than going back to Capital Steering.

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These bolts are not known to come loose, so the nut must not have been fully tightened. It is very difficult to achieve the correct tension on this nut because the threaded section tends to rotate. The manufacturer has added a 4mm inhex to retain the threaded section whilst tightening the nut. Put the nut on and tighten as much as you can, then fit hex key through spanner into centre and tighten nut to correct torque.

Dad says if u want, come past work and he will check and fix it for you for free rather than going back to Capital Steering.

yeah do what micky Tee said as he is closer to you than me. I usually do the links with a rattle gun then check them with a hex key and ring spanner just in case. Never had one come loose yet or heard of one till now.....

but then again Nelson is involved so theories and history go right out the window :spiteful:

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Lol cheers guys.

I'm going to have to take it in to Capital now anyway man :\ The endlink boot is goneski's. Have to replace it. Plus it needs a wheel alignment etc.

Unless of course you can do all of this and I buy you $100 worth of beer? lol

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