Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Ok so the indicators arrived and are sweet, but globes from my indicators fit perfect just that they are too tall by around 6-8 mm and i cant put the lense back on.

My globes say 6V17w on them so figured thats what they should be and thats what my wiring diagram states.

Now the wiring diagram for the road going F11 250 TR only has 6V8W globes which are nice and small and would fit in the indicators great, now the only difference in the two wiring diagrams that i could see other than horn diff of .5amp and different look of voltage regulator, seems to have an extra switch within it in the 250 TR (need someone to tell me if that is significant) is that the turn signal relay is then a 6V8W X2 + 1.5w

So do you think if i swapped relays to that 6V8w version which i guess is below and changed my globes to 6V8W in indicators they would fit and all would be sweet?

From looking at parts manual online for the 1974 F11 (same as mine) the relay is part no 27002-013 RELAY-TURN SIGNAL

no the part below on ebay states the same number: 6V/8W MATCHES KAW PART NO. 27002-010/013 though is in 6V8W which makes me think it is interchangeable ?

and this little chart makes me think if i change the turn signal relay and globes it will work, seems most kawasaki were the lower watt option

ure and Emgo # OEM Ref Application Volt/Watt

A. 66-86706 38310-428-671 Honda - most 6v models 6v/17w

B. 66-86716 27002-010/013 Kawasaki - Most 6v models 73-84 6v/8w

Any info would be great

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/KAWASAKI-FLASHER-UNIT-6V-8W-/190554312339?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c5dec0e93#ht_500wt_1156

indicatorrelay.jpg

Edited by jaderd
Posted

Eventful few days, happy times thats for sure

Got my Learners Permit :)

Got a sweet Joe Rocket replica super sport jacket (kawasaki)

3175d1201971825-joe-rocket-kawasaki-mens-supersport-jacket-2008_joe_rocket_kawasaki_racing_superstock_jacket_black_white.jpg

and got a Dri rider climate control 2 jacket

15042707.jpg

Posted

Awesome write up mate,great read,well done.

i rode a kawasaki Z900 for a few years when i lived in Sydney,great fun but a little dangerous at times and the weather plays it's part big time,finally had enough during a road rage incident with a cement truck so i went back to some sort of safety with a car.(actually it was a Volvo V70 wagon)

anyway buddy great job and enjoy this classic and stay safe :D

Cheers

Lee

Posted

Cheers Guys

Was thinking about my tacho / speedo and i know the speed doesnt work for some reason or another and is a vac sealed unit from factory.

Pretty sure i should be replacing tacho cable and speedo cable (might fix problem) etc but adds more cost....i just ordered a new front brake cable

Sooooo

i bit the bullet and order a Trailtech Vapor (stealth black) Unit

does speed / Revs/ motor temp / ambient temp/ clock and heaps more, shift lights

internal 3v battery

Though to use the full backlight ad warning/ shift lights needs 12V input

straight from trailtech they reccomend as the cheapest easiest is to use a standard 9V battery with connection from radioshack, hide it away and it will run the unit perfect with backlight etc for around 1 year....very cheap fix for 6V bike guys like me and you dont have to splice into any bike wiring...completely independent.

Complete kit including postage and Top mount dashboard only $170 fro ebay shop in the UK, pretty cheap and cheaper than the trailtech site without even including postage.

I measured my stock guage mount and the top mount i bought fits perfect using the left tacho mount hole and right speedo mount hole and clears the ignition perfect. I will wait until i get a replacement mount before i cut off the other tabs or i have another idea lined up for there use, will see what pans out....

all going well....wallet getting thin ;)

vapor-standard-stealth.jpg

022-TM_w450.jpg


  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

quick update, bought some more stuff over weekend, grease and degreaser etc.

chain is currently soaking in degreaser to clean it up then ill check its tolerance, might be ok still.

degreased the motor and stripped all the black off in anticipation of repainting black again....but since the whole lot is bare now i like it alot better.

Also bit of a bonus i feel, the top cylinder head was painted black so has gone back to bare metal, though the bottom half with horizontal fins isnt painted black / gray it is black /gray metal i guess which i like and gives it a two tone look.

Its hard to see in the pics but looks good.

Also filed the fins, need to go over them with some light sandpaper and also the vertical fins although i like how it is coming along.

Painted the fenders, came out well, primer then 4 light coats of enamel, perfect 21 degrees painting with 2 X 500w halogens on them..

Also some other stuff came

Other indicators, which the 6V8W globes from them fit straight into the 12V indicators i bought off ebay which i will use as i like the way they look better.

Kellys Enduro front fender bag arrived

NOS Front brake cable arrived

Pyramid Parts fork oil seal and fork dust boots arrived

Trailtech dash and top mount arrived.

Just waiting on Front sprocket and the little battery case i bought to hold the 9V battery to run the trailtech, it has an internal 3V battery but off that the backlight only runs at 10% and the shift lights dont work, so adding a 9V runs it for a good year or so and gives full backlight and shift lights and stays on for 20min after riding instead of quickly shutting off.

The trailtech mounted on the stock guage bracket fairly well, i also chucked on an old MX visor i had laying around as a shield for it, from the angle it mounts and riding position the whole thing can be seen no prob, especially with backlight, shift lights may be a bit out of view but will fill the space with light and be fine....i may ditch it if it looks ****y once fitted on with whole front end complete.

Some pics below

4c21d02b.jpg

7acc9c29.jpg

6c4e3b23.jpg

d1f389eb.jpg

5d3ff9fc.jpg

fdb89301.jpg

Edited by jaderd
Posted

Little bit happened over last few days

got my official VJMC membership pack which is great, bike will be permit rego'd through VJMC once complete

reinstalled the swingarm and torqued it up

reinstalled the steering stem and it feels a good level of tightness, will recheck prior to riding etc

undid top bolt off forks, took out and cleaned the springs, both springs were identical lengths which is good neither have sagged.

from pouring out oil and releasing bottom screw i got out around 135ml from each fork, figure there is atleast the other 30ml or so sitting in and around all the aspects of the fork so leads me to believe again that they were never leaking.

Dont have a big enough allen key so didnt replace oil seals yet, refilled with 170ml of 10W oil per fork, all back together and feel great.

Fitted forks and torqued up

Fitted gauge assembly, cleaned instrument cluster wiring with circuit spray etc

fitted headlight and oversize cover

fitted handlebars and torqued up.

Liking how it is all looking and am at least able to straddle bike to see how it will be, the trailtech is perfectly viewable from seating angle whilst still protected.

boss was throwing out a single bed egg shell top, she thought of me n my shed work and gave it to me, works great.

Cleaned chain and checked tolerance, tolerance for 10kg weight on chain and 21 link measure is 314mm to 324mm, mine measure 327mm so def gone :( so i need to buy a chain.

Big thankyou to Graham from OZVMX, helped him out with some pics of rear rim n spokes and some F11 articles, he gave me the oil line that i need as mine snapped....save me a good 70$ which can go towards chain, great bloke.

getting excited now coming together well.

Cheers

693b22a0.jpg

cfe2cf8f.jpg

01c911d2.jpg

be6eb9bb.jpg

f0036e82.jpg

ed5e0ced.jpg

cbab4445.jpg

fc171d6c.jpg

5c0d57f3.jpg

Posted

Spent today getting into bike,

Got my 525 chain all sorted, its Tsubaki japanese brand, cut back to 100 links for $72 which is great, pick up Tuesday night

Also got some Dririder Assen gloves off ebay they were size 3XL and won them for $1.25c Fit perfect which is great.

3e820686.jpg

The guy then gave me a 8XL Dririder waterproof jacket for free !!, as the gloves and jacket were thrown in with bike he bought and he has no need, the 8XL is heaps to big for me im sure ill find someone who wants it at a cheap price :)

After researching tyres i settled on some Pirelli MT43 as they are a great on / off road and brilliant for letting down to low psi for bush trips. Got them at Pablos tyres in mulgrave, great bloke scotty and nice shop with some vintage Maicos hanging around to look at.

6d5866b1.jpg

Then spent today cleaning and doing a basic polish of brake hub Front and Rear.

Pulled apart all apects of brakes, cleaned, regreased changed some seals etc, cleaned all aspects of wheel bearings / axles, repacked bearings etc. I decided not to worry about replacing the bearings as they were perfect i will keep the ones i bought incase need in future.

Fitted rear wheel so as a roller and fitted shocks and torqued up, fitted front axle and torqued up.

Was great to be able to hop on the bike and bounce up and down a little, rear shocks are nice and stiff the balance of stiffness up front to rear seems fine, once motor and everything in will reassess, may need stiffer springs in front or extra spacer to make stiffer.

Cheers.....i want it all together already :)

293627b5.jpg

24ce2e83.jpg

9817bdd0.jpg

20222019.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

ok got home tonight, looked at the motor and thought, bugger it, im going to crack the head and have a look see / clean up.

so for all those with the tens of years worth more experience than me what do you see.

i have done a basic clean of the head ? it look ok, notice that its not completely smooth it does have like a slight sandy grain texture on most of it, appears like how it was cast ? and is normal ?

what is the easiest way to take the main part off, it says to use rubber sledge and tap away, i used some rolled up shirt and normal hammer lol, no go so far and dont want to tap too hard, is there another way to lever / loosen it off ? do i really need to take it off, all i really want to do is clean the top of cylinder, is that possible how it is, am afraid of bits of carbon falling everywhere....have vaccuum cleaner going at same time ?

cylinder seems to make a nice fit when sealing top with hand etc.....so i feel it would be fine once heats up and fits proper etc.

6ddc2a07.jpg

e398bc53.jpg

09b94a8b.jpg

07ff59f1.jpg

5bc98f1e.jpg

b974e149.jpg

and yesterday i added some bikeit for guards

quick and easy to fit and for under $10 look and will function alot better than the dodgy ones i made:)

f6fdbba9.jpg

ef28311d.jpg

Cheers any info welcome.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Did some more today,

sanded and sprayed the airbox - silver and cleared so that is ready for fitting.

refitted the chain guards and also the rear metal guard and also the rear tail light /number plate part. cleaned the light and light sanded / polished the lens to bring it back to new looking.

Also decided to use the old reflector holder mount to hold the rear indicators as i didnt want to use the stock mount spot.

Also have decided to go with the second lot of indicators i bought of ebay as they are a little smaller and more era specific looking.

really enjoying the build now...its all the nice clean less messy parts i get to play with.....still frustrating though wire wheeling all the nuts bolts washers etc and polishing them (mainly to protect a little from rust) before i can use them to remount stuff .....tedious but worth it in the end.

cheers

some pics below....seat and rear fender just sitting there.

867c8303.jpg

14772413.jpg

455f9777.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Join The Club

    Join the Toyota Owners Club and be part of the Community. It's FREE!

  • Latest Postings

    1. 18

      High idling on the 2zzge even when warm (solved!)

    2. 5

      High RPM Idle after the engine warm up.

    3. 0

      Tow bar

    4. 3

      Disconnecting winch, lightbar and UHF

    5. 0

      2011 Land Cruiser 1VD-FTV Engine Won't Start After Overhaul

    6. 3

      Disconnecting winch, lightbar and UHF

    7. 3

      Disconnecting winch, lightbar and UHF

    8. 3

      Disconnecting winch, lightbar and UHF

    9. 1

      Snapping wheel and axle studs

    10. 0

      2zz idle / roughness when accelerating past 3k

×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership