throttle body upgrade

[xoom]

i can tell this going to be a massive headacke cant beleave im doing this, i could have a sti sitting in my drive way

well as i said 2 u b4 ...... u can either b a sheeple or unique ;) ...... dont have anything against either group of ppl as thats wat makes us all different .....

however just think ..... wouldnt one of those under ur bonnet just look pure sex ;) ;) ;)

[spillige]

the thing thats got me worried is why no one has tried this before, there must be a reason why. either its a stupid idea or its to hard to get right.....i dont mind investing the time and money into this as long i know i have a chance of making this work rollamods seems to think so

[CHA54]

Those plenums are both no good for an NA 1zz...

You'll find the reason no-one else has done this sort of thing is it costs money. And the bang-for-buck when modding an NA 1ZZ is VERY LOW.

Eg, spend 5K, maybe get 100-110kw atw depending on how high you rev it.

Would be better off spending 5K on a beams 3SGE conversion IMO if you want to stay NA :P

Edited December 13, 2008 by rollamods

[spillige]

at the end of the day its an economy motor, found this prity cool, itbs, turbocharger and nos. looking over a few forums, guy over on zz-series.com is trying this, also seen aza over there.... Edited December 13, 2008 by spillige

[spillige]

Those plenums are both no good for an NA 1zz...

You'll find the reason no-one else has done this sort of thing is it costs money. And the bang-for-buck when modding an NA 1ZZ is VERY LOW.

Eg, spend 5K, maybe get 100-110kw atw depending on how high you rev it.

Would be better off spending 5K on a beams 3SGE conversion IMO if you want to stay NA :P

is it the plenum design thats no good? to large a area? or cause it has no runners? cause the the stock 20valve has no runners and has similier plenum design but more boxed shape

[CHA54]

the stock 20V has MUCH longer runners and a much larger box to accomodate the runners. I'd go measure them if I could be bothered pulling the plenum apart on my 2nd spare 20V.

edit: Couldn't be bothered pulling apart that engine, but did take a scan of part of an AE101 manual with a diagram of the 20V intake runners inside the plenum:

In real life the trumpets are more than 10cm long.

Edited December 13, 2008 by rollamods

[xoom]

Some serious lag on the big fella in the 2nd pic ...... i bet she skips 3 lanes wen she hits peak boost ;)

[spillige]

thx for that rollamods i had no idea the runners/trumpets were internel i couldnt make sence of why there were no runners, could i still use that plenum but use external runners similier to what u see on 1zz, 2zz style, i plan to rev this thing out to 8k with stage 2 cams

[xoom]

thx for that rollamods i had no idea the runners/trumpets were internel i couldnt make sence of why there were no runners, could i still use that plenum but use external runners similier to what u see on 1zz, 2zz style, i plan to rev this thing out to 8k with stage 2 cams

wat other upgrades r u planning if u want this baby to rev out to 8k rpms ?

reason i ask is bcuz the rods in the 1zz r like twigs so i dont know how much high rpm action they can sustain ..... plus u might want to look @ the rest of the head work to be done ..... valves, springs etc ...... and if ur gonna have 2 crack the engine open y stop their ;) ;) ;)

[MT]

reason i ask is bcuz the rods in the 1zz r like twigs

LOL still got it Bill

[spillige]

well heads going to treated to all the good stuff youd be prity stupid not to upgrade springs, valves when doing the cams as any weakness in the head will soon be found out at those rpms, and will spend a lot of time getting the porting correct as ive been told this is where the most gains can be had if done right. as for pistons and rods i dont know yet ive been told they can take that kind of n/a punishment but then again, also oil supply will be an issue. this car wont be running more than 150kws at the wheels not with stock compression

[CHA54]

who told you stock rods will hold 8000rpm?

You'll need aftermarket rods and high compression pistons as a minimum...

[spillige]

qoute:deercelica[The biggest problem with the 1zz-fe is the head. It doesn't flow at all. Put a full P&P on the head by a professional shop w/ a flowbench to get those numbers up. Get cams w/ valves and valve springs. Those should be on the top of your list. After that, get high compression pistons, upgrade the connecting rods if you want, but with n/a there is no real reason too, those factory connecting rods will hold. Don't forget all the bolt-ons, underdrive pulleys, straight pipe exhaust ]

from zz.series.com i urge tocau members to have a look at this site

i understand this just forum talk

[CHA54]

did you ask him for his 8000rpm dyno graph?

I've got lots of pics of broken/bent 1zz rods that gave up around the 7500 mark or less.

[spillige]

did you ask him for his 8000rpm dyno graph?

I've got lots of pics of broken/bent 1zz rods that gave up around the 7500 mark or less.

there goes another $3000

[SuperDave]

Stronger rods for your power goals will not cost any where near $3000 including shipping and labour. Monkey Wrench Racing might even have a December sale on them if you are lucky ( I haven't looked however).

[spillige]

Stronger rods for your power goals will not cost any where near $3000 including shipping and labour. Monkey Wrench Racing might even have a December sale on them if you are lucky ( I haven't looked however).

have u calculated exchange rates in to that? your looking at 2k with bearings not including shipping, insurance or labour

edit: talking about pistons and rods here

Edited December 15, 2008 by spillige