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2002 Camry Sportico 4cyl


queequeg

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hmm, seems I have five problems and they say Toyotas are trouble free though it seems mine turned into a lemon as of late, it has 158,000k's. Bought it last year from a toyota dealer with 124,000k's though its 12 month warranty has run out now so whatever repairs is gonna come out of my pocket. These problems have came to be in the past couple of months.

Problem 1: Night time only, with the radio on and the lights on, there seems to be some problem where the radio cuts out and the lights go out and come back on again (radio also), I have never experienced such a thing in any car in the past.

Problem 2: Engine doesn't seem to idle smoothly. In park, neutral or stopped at an intersection.

Problem 3: The automatic transmission seems to not go into the correct gear all the time say for instance I change from one street to another street the gears should go from the highest gear back down to 1st or 2nd but it doesn't seem to do that.

Problem 4: When you start the engine it tends to rev high for a period before settling down. Also when you turn the engine off there a slight shutter.

Problem 5: the car seems to keep pulling to the left, a wheel alignment didn't fix this.

We did have a 1994 camry that had a computer fault which affected the engine and auto transmission.

Edited by queequeg
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it all might be a ecu problem, dunno if a reset will make everything better. regarding problem 2, how many revs is it doing at idle-it could be a bit low(i would say around 700rpm is average). with problem 4, how high is the engine revving when started up and does it happen when started for the first time after many hours(when it's cold) or even when the engine's hot? because my aunt has one of those camrys and it usually revs at about 1100-1200 revs when its cold before it slowly drops. problem 5 could be a suspension problem(dunno which component), or a wheel alignment not done properly.

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how would one reset the 'ECU' to try? Can it be safely done by ones self?

Problem 2: engine seems to idle on the mark between the second and third mark under the 1, if i accelerate so the needle sits on 1 (in park or neutral) it is smooth.

Problem 4: after the car has been off overnight and when started the engine tends to rev just over the 3 for a second or two then sits in-between 2 and 3 and gradually works its way down to its rough idle. it isn't cold in QLD.

Problem 5: I thought maybe the suspension whatever the suspension is I hate it, you can actually feel all the little stones in the bitchumen, where the 2 different lots of road surface join, ever bump in the road. I dunno but maybe he steering needs attending to as it feels as it has a little play in it I dunno though I'm not very car smart, as long as it starts and drives, just take it for a service, not at toyotas high charges though.

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how would one reset the 'ECU' to try? Can it be safely done by ones self?

Problem 2: engine seems to idle on the mark between the second and third mark under the 1, if i accelerate so the needle sits on 1 (in park or neutral) it is smooth.

Problem 4: after the car has been off overnight and when started the engine tends to rev just over the 3 for a second or two then sits in-between 2 and 3 and gradually works its way down to its rough idle. it isn't cold in QLD.

Problem 5: I thought maybe the suspension whatever the suspension is I hate it, you can actually feel all the little stones in the bitchumen, where the 2 different lots of road surface join, ever bump in the road. I dunno but maybe he steering needs attending to as it feels as it has a little play in it I dunno though I'm not very car smart, as long as it starts and drives, just take it for a service, not at toyotas high charges though.

To reset the ECU:

1) Remove the negative terminal from the battery and leave it off for 30minutes

2) Re-attach the negative terminal

3) Start the engine and leave it to idle for no more than 30seconds then turn it off

4) Restart the engine and leave it to idle for 10minutes or so. Don't do anything to the car during the idle time.

5) Drive, the car will relearn your driving style.

I can't explain the idling + engine issues but with regards to the steering issue:

1) The sportivo has a slightly stiffer suspension setup than the non-sportivo versions but I never noticed it to be rough, your shocks may be worn @ 158,000km. For reference I am just about to replace my KYB excel-g shocks (decent OEM replacements) with some sport shocks if you are looking for a cheap set of shocks with plenty of life left in them (30km rear, 15km fronts), let me know. They are suited for the 36 series.

If you don't want mine, if they need to be replaced; you should do it in any event. The KYB OEM replacements seems to be regarded as the best OEM replacement shock of the ones available (Monroe, Pedders, Ultima etc).

2) Your car may pull to one side due to your caster. I have had my caster bushes replaced with a double offset bush kit which eliminated the car pulling to the left. Paired with a proper alignment it may help you as well.

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I'll give the ECU thing a try later and see if that helps any.

I did price suspension (shocks) around and the cheapest was Toyota directly which I thought was unusual (i just wanted to query the suspension before I did any action) they charge $95 each for the front and $160 for one back one can't remember which side and $180 for the other back one. So $530 for the lot ain't bad, I'd probably do the springs while at it as it doesn't seem to sit as high as it used to. I certainly wouldn't get them fitted at Toyota their labour costs are through the roof.

I'll see about the caster thing whatever it is never heard of it. But I'm certainly get more tyre wear on the front left than the other tyres.

Have to also see about this strange electrical problem which I have found a couple of other with same/similar problem with sportivos here.

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just one other small thing, the center console, the light under the 1, 2, N, D, P, when you turnt he lights on at night, it never comes on but if you tap it, it comes on, what could that be? What process would one do to check it?

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wow.....

do u know if the vehicle has been in an accident?

particularly that electrical problem is an icing on the cake for the car being in a prior front on accident? either that, or its just extremely problematic and rare 02 sportivo.

look in the engine, u can tell via paint spots if the engine bay has been reworked.

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wow.....

do u know if the vehicle has been in an accident?

particularly that electrical problem is an icing on the cake for the car being in a prior front on accident? either that, or its just extremely problematic and rare 02 sportivo.

look in the engine, u can tell via paint spots if the engine bay has been reworked.

I don't see any evidence of 'rework' in the engine bay it doesn't appear to be but then it still doesn't count it out I suppose. With the electrical problem I see evidence that a couple of Sportivo owners in this forum have had some electrical problem that is similar.

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The caster bushes that I got was a SuperPro double offset bush kit, Part Number: SPF3175K. You can read about caster here: http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html

You may not need a double offset kit, you may only need a single. Take it to a suspension place and tell them your problem.

I couldn't tell you if new springs would help or not

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The car is also due for a Major 150K Service by the sounds of things....

I had the same problem with the gear box lights at one stage, it would come on after you tapped it. All i did was remove the plastic trim and put it back on. that seemed to have fixed it.

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car is due for a service at 159k's.

I popped into a car battery place and the guy there said he was amazed that I made it there, he literally said it was 'rooted'. He sold me a 'maintenance free battery'.

The reset of the ECU seem to have sorted the auto gear change thing 'at present' but nothing else.

As for the light for the transmission I managed to get all the plastic bits out of the way to get a look and I can see the bulb correctly positioned but there is no way that I can see to check on the wiring directly under the bulb, tap away and the light goes on and off with each tap is is really weird.

Edited by queequeg
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Wait til you have done 159K kms then get a full service done on the vehicle..

Atleast the ECU reset fixed the gear changing problem which is a start..

Did the new battery make any difference to the radio cutting out?

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i'll give it some time to see if the new battery made difference with the electronics cutting out at night time but with the console light for the transmission (P N D 2 1) being strange may contribute to this I dunno but will have to find a way to get a visual on the wires. I might even pull out the radio and check that all the wires.

Edited by queequeg
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i'll give it some time to see if the new battery made difference with the electronics cutting out at night time but with the console light for the transmission (P N D 2 1) being strange may contribute to this I dunno but will have to find a way to get a visual on the wires. I might even pull out the radio and check that all the wires.

It's not hard to pull out: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_G_2004_TOYOTA_CAMRY_ACV36R-DEPVKQ_5806.2.html

Have a look at the pictures, 6 clips. Nothing special, i've pulled out my one (manual, but it uses the same clip setup) and it's a breeze.

I personally would take it to a suspension joint and get a suspension check. Most places offer a free check so take advantage of this and shop around; let them know you're doing it too so they'll do the best price they can.

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seem you misunderstood with the auto light thing, i had managed getting that plastic bit with the six clips (that was the easy part), i'm talking about where the actual bulb is I took the plastic cover off the bit of plastic that has (P N D 2 1) on it. The bulb is down a 'gully' but you don't want it from the top you want it from the bottom but access is not easy.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

just another update, had car service for its 159,000. They said all is fine (Toyota Dealer) but it is still pulling to the left I told them about but it seems they did nothing for $780. Feel like dumping the car at the tip at the moment. They've done service, tyre rotation, coolant, steering check (steering still feels as it has some play in it, not firm like it should be) and a few other things. They said nothing regarding suspension/shock things, did mention it to them, still rides horrible in my opinion. T

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Toyota mechanics are not suspension experts.

Take it to a suspension shop, it sounds like you need an Offset/Double offset castor bush kit. Tell them your problem and they will be likely to solve your problem.

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I have a friend who has a 2001 Camry, he's only ever had his car serviced at the toyota dealer he bought it from, and I think it was Canon in Melbourne they do everything for him, suspension (did that last year), his steering (this year), they even do wiper blades. So if they are doing their job then there should be no reason why all dealers aren't doing it.

In any case its a job that's gonna wait til next year because I can't afford it at this time of year.

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Wiper blades isn't rocket science. If a dealer couldn't do wiper blades I wouldn't go there (even someone as mechanically hopeless as me (ask any of the brisbane crew) can do it; they should be too).

Look at a Toyota dealer as a jack-of-all-trades mechanic but master of none. They can do simple things like rotations/balancing, alignments + strut/spring replacements but aren't specialists in diagnosing issues. If you have a specific suspension issue (which you clearly do), go to a suspension joint. I'm sure the $780 you paid for your service wasn't fully for suspension work alone so I wouldn't get all hung up on it.

I am 99% certain replacing the control arm bushes with a offset/double offset castor kit will solve your pulling to the left issue.

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