help on brakes

[losties]

**

Hi everyone

I havent posted for a while but im hoping to do that more so in the future as I am trying to slowly learn how to tune up my car. Anyway, the question that i would like to ask is that what is the best brake fluids and brake pads to be using. I went to autobarns and they quoted me DB1431 for the Front and DB1920 or DB1429 (diamond shape) for the rear. Are they any good? or should i just get OEM pads from toyota? Are there any brakes that are similar to toyota's or a little better?

My second question in regards to brake fluids is, which DOT brake fluids is everyone using and could u recommend it to me? Also with bleeding the brakes, do I really have to bleed it using the one man bleeder that could be bought at supercheapauto or so? or could i just pour in the new liquid and let the brakes run through the pipes for a little while. Thank you for taking the time to read my post.

On a side note I'm writing this in a disappointing mood, I got rejected from a research job at toytoa =/. I did get the chance to meet the managers there but not enough to get a job there. I was hoping to get in and bring and somehow help bring the ideas from this froum into the research facility. Oh wells, wishful thinking :( sorry for troubling everyone with this paragraph. I just wanted to this out there, to get it off my chest.

Edited September 2, 2013 by losties

[david.]

Hey there mate, sorry to hear about Toyota.

With regards to brake pads, I believe those part numbers should be correct, but just to be safe you should ask for ZZT231 Celica pads (Not sure about the rears though if someone can shed some light on it). I believe he would've quoted you for Bendix pads. For an everyday road car, there are many pads out there which will suit your needs (except for cheap SCA sh*t), for example Bendix, EBC, QFM, Hawk, Remsa, etc. What you should make up your mind are what variant of brake pads you choose to run. In general, there is a trade-off between braking performance and longetivity/brake dust. The more performance-oriented the brake pads, the more they would chew through your brake rotors and the more dust would be produced, not lasting as long as a general brake pad. Depending what variant pad you purchase, it should be close to or exceed OEM pads' performance.

The brake fluid I believe was DOT3? (Check on your brake fluid reservoir cap, I don't have a Corolla anymore so can't check). Any fluid meeting the DOT specifications would do, given that it should be flushed every 24 months regardless of mileage anyway.

I don't understand what you mean by "let the brakes run through the pipes for a little while". The only 2 methods I've used for bleeding the brakes are;
- One-man brake bleeder kits, and
- A tube of piping which fits very snug over the bleeding nipple. After fitting one end on the nipple I submerge the other end in an old water bottle with a bit of fresh brake fluid (officially named my brake-bleeding bong).

I hope my post helps.

[SuperDave]

The brake fluid I believe was DOT3? (Check on your brake fluid reservoir cap, I don't have a Corolla anymore so can't check). Any fluid meeting the DOT specifications would do, given that it should be flushed every 24 months regardless of mileage anyway.

Except DOT5, don't mix that with the other DOT series! DOT5.1 is different to DOT5 though, just to make things confusing. DOT3 is as rare as hens teeth. Just run a DOT4 in there, as that's most likely what Toyota used.

As for bleeding the brakes, you'll be waiting hours for them the gravity bleed. I haven't uses the one man bleed system, but my system involves 2 people.

person 1, mans the brake pedal and fluid reservoir.

person 2 works the bleed nipple. You'll need a 10mm and 8mm spanner, 15cm of small silicon hose that fits over the bleed nipple, and a container.

1. Jack car up and take all the wheels off, and make sure to use chassis stands, and top up the reservoir.

2. Person1 pushes on the brake pedal, calls 'on'. Person2 opens the bleed nipple and called 'open'. Once the brake pedal is on the floor, person1 call 'down'. Person2 closes the bleed nipple, and calls 'closed'. Person1 does not lift the brake pedal until the nipple is closed! It's a pain to get the air out of the system. Repeat until fluid comes out clean (or if air in the system, until bubbles stop coming out.

Notes: after about 15 pumps (IIRC), the reservoir will need to be topped up again. Start at the rear left, then rear right, then front left, then front right; the idea is to work furthest to closest.

Pretty simple really.

[ben yip]

Use this for one man, motive brake bleeder

Edited September 3, 2013 by ben yip

[VLAN]

I reccomend to you Black Diamond rotors+pads.

Edited September 5, 2013 by VLAN