Where is the remote receiver on a 1998 Camry

[Peter Wilkinson]

I've got a 1998 Camry with 2 remotes, neither of which work. It's possible both remotes are broken (or flat), but it's also possible the receiver is faulty.

Does anyone know where the receiver lives?

Also do you know a good way of testing whether the receiver is functional?

Thanks,

Pete

[(mr2)]

Are they the remotes with the metal tabs on the side?

If so you are after the Computer Integration Module (CIR) which is above the glove box. Open it up and you will see a small slot for the remotes to slot into when coding them, it's above that.

Also if they are the above type the remotes are sealed and the batteries soldered in. If the remotes are old then I would start with replacing one of them.

Again if it is the above remote type I can give you the programming for a new remote but you do need an existing one to start, you should be fine as long as your remotes still have the metal contacts.

[Peter Wilkinson]

The remotes are black plastic, no metal tabs. They are sealed, however I found breaking them open and replacing the battery (desoldering required) gets them going again. One of the remotes I've replaced the battery and it did work prior to a week ago. The other remote has never been opened and has also stopped working. It's old enough that a flat battery is fairly likely, but both remotes failing at the same time makes me suspicious something else is going on.

[(mr2)]

If replacing the battery got it working for a bit then I think you should start with replacing the remote, which is around $70. This is going to be the cheapest and easiest to replace first.

I'm not sure where the remote receiver is on your type, at a guess it will still be behind the dash somewhere. Try looking behind the stereo.

[Peter Wilkinson]

Cheers for the advice. I'm going to borrow a manual from the library and see what it has to say on the issue. I still think it's fairly likely the fault is not with the transmitters.

[(mr2)]

Check the location in the picture. You are after the CIR

What do you have, wagon or sedan?

Also do you have a multimeter? I have found the wiring diagram, you will be able to test the outputs when you press the remote to see if it is sending a signal to the door actuators or not, testing to see if it is getting the signal from the remotes will be a lot harder though without the right gear.

[Peter Wilkinson]

Grabbed a Gregory's manual. Worthless, doesn't mention the keyless entry system.

I poked around trying to find the receiver. I assume it isn't the same thing as the immobilizer found under the driver side dash.

http://postimg.org/image/udx4dv7vt/

I then pulled out the glove box to see this :

http://postimg.org/image/crtumtp61/

I'm thinking the Receiver (I wonder what CIR stands for...) is this one :

http://postimg.org/image/ird0cqkkp/

I'm thinking the easiest path forward might be to grab one of these:

http://goo.gl/qQB97i

What do you think?

[(mr2)]

Please re read my posts. My first one I have mentioned what the CIR is and my third there is a picture of it's location and I have mentioned that I have wiring diagrams for this car, but the sedan and wagon are different.

I poked around trying to find the receiver. I assume it isn't the same
thing as the immobilizer found under the driver side dash.

Correct, that only holds information about the keys transponder.

[Peter Wilkinson]

My apologies, I should read more carefully.

I've got a sedan and I do have a multimeter.

There doesn't seem to be a slot near what i think is the CIR for programming remotes. The remotes I have do not have any external contacts, the outside is solid plastic, so I don't think the remote is programmable.

[cosmichobo]

G'day,

Does the interior dome light work?

I ask, because my interior dome light stopped working a while ago... then at a later date, the key fob stopped as well. Repaired the dome light - fob started working!

Cheers,

cosmic

[playwme]

The remotes are programmable. To put in program mode doors shut, headlights off, turn ignition on and off 3 times. Hazards flash to indicate programming mode. Press the button on your remote within 5 seconds and if successful the hazards flash again.

I had a bunch of used remotes I recently sold and checked them on my own car before shipping out.

[Peter Wilkinson]

I tried the off on trick. Doesn't make the indicators flash, although the security light on the instrument panel does light up for a few seconds. Probably a further sign that the receiver module is faulty.

On a side note: I'd guess from the way this is meant to work that you are actually programming the receiver to accept the remote signal, as opposed to programming the remote.

[Peter Wilkinson]

Deleted mistake post..

Edited June 22, 2014 by Peter Wilkinson

[Peter Wilkinson]

The interior light does work. Thanks for the suggestion though.

[(mr2)]

My apologies, I should read more carefully.

I've got a sedan and I do have a multimeter.

There doesn't seem to be a slot near what i think is the CIR for programming remotes. The remotes I have do not have any external contacts, the outside is solid plastic, so I don't think the remote is programmable.

It is still the CIR that you are after. It is the SXV10 Camry that uses the slot in the dash, yours would be a SXV20.

I tried the off on trick. Doesn't make the indicators flash, although the security light on the instrument panel does light up for a few seconds. Probably a further sign that the receiver module is faulty.

On a side note: I'd guess from the way this is meant to work that you are actually programming the receiver to accept the remote signal, as opposed to programming the remote.

When doing this leave the key in the ON position on the third time.

The security LED should stay on for 5 seconds. When this happens hold

the remote close to re receiver in the glove box and press the button,

repeat for any other remotes. ( Max 4)

Correct with coding the remote to the car, this is why they are also reusable in other cars.

Toyota Diagnosis for the remote is....

Insert key and turn on

Press remote button - hazards should flash twice indicating rolling code is sync'd

If no go..

Program new remote using the On OFF method.

If no go, replace CIR

[Peter Wilkinson]

You've been very helpful Mr2, really appreciate the effort. The programming steps don't work for me, so either both my fobs are broken or my receiver is.

If anyone has the same car and is near Indooroopilly in Brisbane we could maybe do some tests. If your fob works with my car I'd know my receiver is OK. If my receiver is broken and my fobs work with your car you can have them.

Edited June 22, 2014 by Peter Wilkinson

[(mr2)]

It is possible that your car has a key insertion switch that has been disconnected, you know, that stupid buzzing noise when you leave your key in the ignition and the door is open :)

To check remove the plastic around your steering wheel and look to see if there are 2 wires going into the side of the ignition, it isn't the ones going to the key reader around the front of the ignition.

Or if someone else with a SVX20 can check on their car..

If you do find someone with the same car another thing to try is put your CIR in their car and see if your remotes code in as it might not be the CIR itself but other issues with the car, preventing it to go into programming.

[playwme]

Sorry, I was running off memory last night and it obviously sucked. As Mr2 said leave the switch in the on position the 3rd time, the hazards don't flash going into program mode but the security light comes on for 5 seconds. Pressing your remote button while the security light is on should register it to the car if it's working.

If you can get hold of another known working remote then you should be able to check that your receiver is working properly.

You can also do other things while in program mode. Press the horn to toggle the "horn chirp" when locking or unlocking. I think you can press the door lock for 2 stage unlock (first press unlocks driver door only, second unlocks the rest). You can set a headlight off delay as well. Turn the headlights on, leave for your desired delay time (5 to 60 seconds) then turn lights off.

[Peter Wilkinson]

It is possible that your car has a key insertion switch that has been disconnected, you know, that stupid buzzing noise when you leave your key in the ignition and the door is open :)

What would be the symptom of key insertion switch being disconnected? Would it cause the doors not to respond to the fobs? Or stop you reprogramming?

I've never heard a buzzing noise for keys in ignition, so it's likely not connected.

Edited June 22, 2014 by Peter Wilkinson

[(mr2)]

IF it has one and has been disconnected then the car doesn't know that you have the key in the ignition ( Even though you turn it On and OFF) It won't stop the doors from Locking/ unlocking.

This is one of the biggest problems I have when coding in keys and remotes on Toyota's.

[Peter Wilkinson]

I do see the security light on the dash turn on after the off/on thing, so I think that bit is ok.

[(mr2)]

By my notes the Security light is supposed to go out when the key is inserted.

It will be worth checking.

[Peter Wilkinson]

The light goes out when i insert the key. It turns on again for a few seconds after off/on/off/on/off/on.

[playwme]

I've got 3 of this model Camry and none of them have buzzers of any kind for keys, doors or lights. I'd be trying another remote first.

[playwme]

Grabbed a Gregory's manual. Worthless, doesn't mention the keyless entry system.

I'm thinking the Receiver (I wonder what CIR stands for...) is this one :

http://postimg.org/image/ird0cqkkp/

CIR is Computer Integration Relay, and from looking at my Haynes Manual (also useless) I think it's the bigger black one right next to the ECU. Photos in this manual show a different dash than my Camry and a different remote. I'm thinking the photos are of an American model or the previous model Camry.