Buying a Pre-owned XU40 Kluger

[Tommu_Borgir]

Hi everyone,

As the title suggests, i am looking to purchase an XU40 Kluger in a 7 seat format. I am aware of a small list of troubles the 2GR-FE faces (such as VVTi oil leak, Idler pulley noises and failures, an issue with the water pump, plugs/coils having trouble), but i am also seeking any insight into other things to look for, say with the transmission or electrics.

Considering the age of the model i am looking at (2007-2013), most are in the 150k+ range, with some getting to 300k, so im curious as to how much that would affect the general condition of the car, given the typically famous reliability of Toyotas...Things like the effect of long term caravan/campervan towing on the transmission.

I have seen a post on here regarding an opinion between the AWD and FWD models, but i also wonder if the added rear driveline would present any troubles later in life.

I am aware that this is a pretty open-ended question as the way the car is driven certainly has an affect on the condition also.

Thankyou for your time!

[campbeam]

The 2GR-FE engine has a known issue of oil sludge. Essential that the engine has been regularly serviced preferably with a quality brand full synthetic oil. One tell-tale sign is an engine that blows white smoke on startup or under hard acceleration. Definitely check for the presence of oil sludge near the oil filler opening in the valve cover. A quick test is to rub a thick plastic straw down the inside of the valve cover. If the straw is full of a black tarry substance be prepared for the costs of removing and desludging the front valve cover.

Absolutely forget about the transmission fluid not needing to be changed and will last a lifetime. It is a self-fullfilling prophecy in that the "expired" ATF" contributes to transmission issues and failures.

I am unaware of what is in the Kluger's owner's manual or service schedule but I understand that if the vehicle is operating in extreme conditions e.g. towing then the ATF should be changed at 70K intervals. Definitely check the service history for details of any transmission servicing.

I am not a transmission specialist but I can research online. I highly doubt if a transmission would get to 300K on the original ATF without failing or having costly issues.

It might pay to contact a transmission shop experienced in servicing Toyota transmissions and get their opinion.

Also have a read of this link.

https://australiancar.reviews/reviews.php#!content=guide&make=Toyota&model=Kluger&gen=904

 

[Tony Prodigy]

Hi Thomas

I try and buy the best car available, of course we all do, even if you had to spend that bit more. Make sure it has an impeccable service history with no gaps in the timeline. No car will be perfect, but it's a process of elimination. The general condition of the car as a whole will indicate the type of life it's had. Look for excessive wear on the driver's seat, carpet, door trim, steering wheel and other general parts of the interior. A fastidious owner will try and avoid premature wear and tear, whereas the roughians will tend to abuse it to a degree. This can also reflect in the quality of it's service history.

Mechanically the 2GR-FE is quite robust and reliable if it's had the correct maintenance. THe VVTI oil feed line should've been done under the recall and would be surprised if there any still around driving on the original rubber hose type. That's the first thing you can ask the seller.

If the water pump hasn't been replaced at 150k or more, expect it to fail. In most cases, these get replaced as a preventative measure. The rest of it is basic service. Oil service is a big one on these. We often bang on about it here and the general idea is to do the oil service betwwen 5k-7.5K or every 12 months. If you do a lot of short trips then the recommendation would be 5K. We also advocate the use of a fully synthetic oil of the correct weight the factory specifies which 5W-30. The timimg system in these engines rely on fresh clean oil to be able to operate the VVTI correctly among other aspects of the engine's circulatory systems.

Plugs and coils are really an issue unless you start to detect a misfire. The original plugs can last up to 170K if I recall, but aren't cheap at around $40 each. Same goes for coils. If you go for the Bosch type, they will set you back around $600 for a set. You can get generic aftermarket too. Whatever fits your budget.

Spark plugs, I'd stick with the OEM Iridiums. Spend the money once so you won't have to touch them for many years.

You will encounter minor things like, pulleys, perhaps an alternator, thermostat etc. These are normal on any car, but given the reputation for Toyota reliability, it shouldn't give too much grief.

I can't answer anything about FWD or AWD, but I will say this. I drove a friends 40 Kluger once and the torque steer was shocking and that was FWD. Drive one for yourself and make up your own mind. Drive it normally, then give it a boot full and see what you think.

I am thinking the AWD may be better suited if you are planning on towing a caravan. You should install an after market transmisson cooler too if it already doesn't have one otherwise you will cook the tranny fluid pretty quickly and shorten its lifespan.

If I've missed something, others will chime in hopefully to add their advice.

All the best and good luck with the search. Come back anytime, if you end up getting one and post some pics for us.

Cheers mate 

[11/16Aurion 12Kluger]

I have owned a GSU40R series Kluger "2WD" since new for 9.5 years now.  Mine only has 120,000km on it but it has has a varied life.
As you are looking to buy a used one it can be pot luck on what you get...  as with any used car.  People (and dealerships/mechanics can do some bad things to cars.

Oil sludge...
This can happen with any modern motor, it is not unique to the 2GRFE motor. 
I did see one report where someone did complain of it but when the truth came out he admitted he had not changed the oil for OVER 5 years!!
I have seen other cars where the oil has turned to the consistency of a crayon for exactly the same reason.
I know in the US the 1st generation did have a problem caused by the crank case ventilation outlet being in the wrong location and a TSA recommended moving it to the front valve cover area and the problem ceased.  I'm not sure if the 1st generation here had the same problem.
Mine does not have a hint of it.
THE CURE.  Change the oil every 10,000 km or 12 months, use FULL synthetic 5-30 oil.  Only use Toyota or Ryco oil filters and ensure they are installed correctly.  If installed incorrectly they can crush and impede the oil flow.

Maintenance...
Oil change as previously mentioned.  Air filter every 20,000km (Toyota or Ryco) and at that time clean the PCV valve, MAF* sensor and Throttle Body*.
(*) Only use cleaners intended for this purpose.
The service schedule states 80,000km for transmission service.  Make sure this is done.
The cooling system in modern cars is the ticking time bomb with most modern cars.  This must be done on time and dont skimp on the coolant used or the method in replacing it.  Ensure it is bled correctly afterwards.
The rest is common with most cars, serpentine belt, pulleys, tensioners, sensors, water pump, etc...  The timing chain is metal so should last the life of the car.

Suspension...
The handling is ok for the size and height of the car but seems a bit soft.  I have fitted new KYB struts to the rear recently and it improved the handling noticeably and will be fitting them to the front soon.
(Update 27/9/21.. Fitted new KYB struts to the front and had an alignment.  Worth every cent.  The ride is now firmer but not overly hard and it steers and corners much better.)

2WD or AWD...
I weighed up this when I was buying one.  My cars for the previous 20 yrs or so were all FWD and I never had any problem with them on slippery roads.  Naturally you have to drive to conditions and be sensible with the accelerator.  The 2GRFE V6 is a powerful motor so you need to respect it.   Good tyres are a must (Michelin).  I have found the Kluger (2WD) has better traction in that regard than my other cars.  Tyre wear is excellent.  I got over 80,000km from my last set (Michelin) although the factory Dunlops were shot at 25,000km.  The Michelins could have gone another 20,000km easily.
The things that turned me off the AWD were the additional purchase price of the car, the extra weight, the extra servicing cost and the higher fuel consumption.
Again that choice will be up to you and your intended use of the car.
You get torque steer on all FWD cars.  I cant recall noticing it on the Kluger though.

BTW...  The Kluger is basically an Aurion station wagon.  It has a sedan type chassis and is not a bush bashing truck or suitable for towing large vans.  I have towed a 14ft one with mine and it was no problem but I did not push it.  The Prado or Hilux would be more suited to that sort of use.

Overall I have found it to be a great car.  Good for long trips, nice to drive, quiet and comfortable and surprisingly economical. 
Good luck with your search, I hope you find a good one.




 

Edited September 27, 2021 by 11/16Aurion 12Kluger