kwach10

yes, 6 L of stock oil is included in that price ($150) up to 60K service. @$10/L you can get a credit for your own synthetic but why bother if you don't care ;) my car has no service "program" (as additional cost ($800?) not available for government fleet cars) so I will buy my own and service at a trusted place of my choice

synthetic 5-40 is a perfect compromise for all year driving, unless central OZ (5-50). One good synthetic oil change costs less than a full petrol tank!

That is a real bargain! Why dose it cost new 2x as much in the land of OZ? Slave/colony pricing? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2008-TOYOTA...%3A1|240%3A1318

I hope so <_< I asked the ACT dealer if they are aware of this apparently common problem - response - no! Need to see the car to assess it - fair enough, but the fact that Toyota has not advised dealers about the issue is rather perplexing

There is no need to service a car under warranty at the dealer, and I hardly ever did in the last 10 or so years. Although they will show their displeasure when you turn up for the warranty fix only! I almost never got a good service from any dealer (toyo, mitsu, VW) and most of the time after the warranty fix the car was needed for further repair after they "fix it". Find a small workshop and develop a friendly relationship - it works most of the time, and its generally much cheaper. :)

looks like I will be calling soon as well, drives side is gone but i did not know since i got the car second hand

works for me with CD+R (a better format) as well

See this comparo: http://www.drive.com.au/Editorial/ArticleD...ArticleID=61810 If RX is better than the other 3, even though it has room problems and handling issues - than - Kluger 4wd Grande is a clear winner! And at what price? Do see (ebay) what canadian and us buyers can get their Highlanders for - how about a hybrid 2008 with under 20K for less than 30K???

Japan has size-based car taxes. Kluger is probably just too big to be a popular buy. That is why Lexus is smaller, probably just under the extra tax

Was this supposed to be a joke? You do realise the extra 2" is the wheel diameter and has nothing to do with the tread? I think that too many people put a disproportionate amount of emphasis on the price and life of tyres and not enough on grip. It doesn't matter what driving aids you have(ESP,ABS,etc.), if the tyres don't have sufficient grip, you can't turn, stop, etc. I have always bought the best tyres I could afford for every car I have had for the last 25 years, and for my wifes cars for as long as I have known her. The OEM 19" tyres on the Kluger aren't bad, but I will buy better when they need replacing. The OEM 17" tyres are not good at all and I may not wait until they are worn until I get something better. I will change them when we start getting some rain. The difference in quality of the tyres you buy can literally be the difference between life and death for you and your families. Could not agree more - that is why I went for Toyos :D In addition, they are part off-road capable so gravel and snow - here I go

My Camry Touring is just under 10 y.o. and has done 262 K happy km, running on a synthetic oil exclusively. After the first, it never had a scheduled service at a Toyota shop and only visited few times for minor warranty issues and a clutch and a timing belt (with water pump just in case) change at 150K (with problems!). Soon after I did all 4 shocks (KYBs). At 220!!! K km I did front pads and the rears are still original (all discs were perfect!) Apart from spark plugs, the hydraulic clutch cylinder and an indicator stalk, it has all original components, including belts. Air con was never serviced!!! Only now it has been showing some hesitation at low load (minimal throttle - now clean!) in 5th suggesting injectors are not giving an optimal spray. I just put in 98 petrol with an injector cleaner and it looks like the issue is gone. No it is still a problem but reduced in severity, so may need to do a full clean (over $200 if I remember -_- ) Last year I did full injector clean in Magna V6 after 190 K km and apparently they were OK - after occasional use of an injector cleaner.

well, maybe the is a cheap fix for some of those suffering from the "uterine" (for simple people only) discomfort :) A TRD item must be good (?) or would it be just fore looks http://cgi.ebay.com.au/TOYOTA-Headrest-Pil...%3A1|240%3A1318

we spotted that at night!!! Hmmm, highly professional, dependable, factory-trained outfit they are NB. looks like my Yaris g-box is holding up (for now?)

B are only 400! vs Toyo 640!!! (see my previous post) if they make the size, the highest rating would be Coopers (>700)

cervix uteri (neck of the uterus) commonly abbreviated by just about everyone to cervix (and as you point out it doesn't necessarily make it technically correct :) ). Who says learning latin these days is a waste of time :) Back on topic, it's still a painful chair. Looks like this might be the end of the road - acceptance or a major alteration/change of the head rest one could also go all the way and have a RECARO seat custom fitted: http://www.idealseat.com.au/

well not quite <_< unfortunately the wiki has been shown again to be only as good as a fool who makes an incorrect entry (cervix=vagina - oops=uterus) educated morons run the world and that is why we are in a poo! there is a good movie about this - "idiocracy"

Quite by an accident, I and Briggsy managed to discover that although looking identical form a distance, the S (graphite) wheels differ in at least two ways from these fitted to Grande (light silver). 1. A darker shade of silver on S (may be due to being matched to a darker body) 2. An extra deep edge inside the dark S wheel compared with that on the light silver.

and who might that be http://www.spine-health.com/conditions/pai...-spinal-anatomy perhaps a bit of extra education might also be helpfull http://www.anatomy.usyd.edu.au/glossary/glossary.cgi?page=c

Just got another 2 Toyos for the back, and yes, the price has gone up by $20 each It gets even better! - soon they are going up again :o So if you are about to need a change of rubber, better make it soon - as you might not be able to get anything for under $400 per corner I another year or two, price relativity might be different :( (one has to believe in something!)

Well I don't have a cervix so must just have an odd shaped noggin :D really? so how is you noggin attached to the rest of you :D

According to the manual, the centre of the head rest should be level with the top of your ears. Having it low means it is not positioned properly. At the very least the top should be above your ears to minimise whip lash. I took the head rest out and played around with all the adjustments until I found the most comfortable position. Stuck the head rest back in and it intruded into the space wher my head wants to be. It needs to sit about 1-2cm further back. I find that it pushes my head forward which throws out my neck and back. I'm only in the car for an hour a day and it is having a big impact on me. I'm considering buying a replacement head rest, but am concerned with safety in rear end collision. Well, its not just the hight - it must be the shape of the back of the skull and the curve of the cervix which make it, or not, OK. I am happy :D and as close as possible for stopping the WL.

Having just done a 700 km trip to Sydney and back, with a special attention to the position of the head rest, here are my findings. I am firmly in the camp of those who find these seats very comfortable Firstly, as for few others, the head rest is not an issue, no matter what position it is at. I keep it low so it seats close to my neck curve. I do not need to support my head and if I did for a short time, it felt odd, very odd. As most, I also have a back problem but a recent 1300 km done in one go was the most comfortable drive ever :D chiropractic attention may be needed for some, but having just spend 100s over the last 2 months, my lower back has not improved at all, although the neck did. Maybe that is the crux of the problem for these with head rest incompatibility - we are all different if only subtly

this must be a hight-related issue being within the 5% out layer, I have had no problems with head rests except for the lack of top-tilt adjustment, as typical for German (Italian?) cars. I actually adjusted Polo's head rest forward to keep it as close as possible to my neck without it touching - the closer the distance the more effective when needed. Occasionally, I would rest my head on it but that was not the way to drive long-term. The bottom tilt on kluger makes no sense to me as a safety feature. At the top, the head rest is not well aligned with my neck curve so I keep it low, tilted back at the bottom. Some cars, including kluger, but particularly Nissan xtrail, have a forward aligned, non adjustable, head rest for the center seat in the back and that can be rather uncomfortable for small people, as indicated to me by a friend.

It might be cheaper to get it from US: http://motors.shop.ebay.com/items/Parts-Ac...1a&_fcsfc=0