Andrew357

i got the "magnatec fuel saver" castrol

That should be fine.

actually, im in need of a change oil as well,

ive done 230xxx on an 03 4cyl camry, anyone reccommend one ?

i went to super cheap and they couldnt really reccomend me one appearantly due to having high kms .. and then the dude handed me a 5w 30 of castrol.. is that okay ?

A good semi synthetic/full synthetic will do (Mobil 2000/Mobil1) be my choice. He has given you the manufacturer specced oil (5-30) but which Castrol did he give?

Your special rear ones right?

should be there

You'd better be, looking forward to seeing the Camry

Oh really? I was going to bring the Focus... ;)

should be there

Not even worth using them, I think the Gen 5 are the worst brake setup Toyota used on the Camry's(hence why guys upgrade). Would be just as easy and as cost effective to run the Gen 3 calipers and hubs and Gen 6 rotors.

Actually, Gen 4 calipers are by far the worst (of the Camrys that share the same hub). The Gen 5 braking system was a big upgrade on the previous generation by a country mile in both the front and rear (gonna hand over my rears to Anthony when i go TRD).

but given the little difference in cost vs what you get.between Gen5 and 6, you'd be a fool to not spend the.little extra.

Edit: Main reason why we upgrade is because the setup inadequate under constant aggressive driving (such as Nebo) but otherwise is an adequate setup.

Intake cam project has been postponed due to the cams needing abit more work before going in, however all the maintenance was done + had the rocker covers sprayed and the supercharger re-painted as well. Engine idles better and I'll see how fuel consumption improves... pending my ability to resist hitting boost all the time (it's been a long time). Big props to Dave The Viking for his help too; saved a small fortune over getting parts + labour done @ a mechanic or dealer.

Happy with how the red turned out :D

decision made... put me back IN!

Will see you all tomorrow @ the loop

and with DJ leading the cruise, i suspect it won't be a slow cruise

it is a cruise, not a race

I believe The Viking will be making an appearance this evening as well.

I believe I have heard this before.

And I'll be there but not for too long.

Very likely. I think he's keeping the conditions of the cams to himself until we chat + I need to pickup a bare metal shiny thing from him.

Me. After 9pm due to requirements of The State.

I believe The Viking will be making an appearance this evening as well.

Thanks! I just searched for 'fuel doctor' on these forums and the reviews all seem great. i'm gonna get a bottle.

The Viking got me onto fuel doctor and I must say I am very impressed.

Have been driving my brother's 02 Focus and it's manners are a little unpolished. Idle was rough, idle in neutral was very rough and the engine as a whole was pretty tired. Gave it a shock treatment of Fuel Doctor and the rough idling has decreased signifcantly and acceleration is abit smoother. She's still in need of some TLC but Fuel Doctor definitely worked for this little beast.

This sexy beast? She must have gotten a colour change and make the pink really stand out!

To be fair, I had my Enkeis shipped from TireRack using FedEx and it cleared fine. I've had cycling wheels/frames shipped from the UK via DHL and I haven't had an issue.

I don't know of any courier that shares the major sorting facilities so you're not going to have much luck. USPS can ship wheels but to ship all as one package will be extremely expensive (Global Express Guaranteed due to the size) and sending 4 wheels as individual shipments via USPS First Class/USPS Priority Mail International/USPS EMI is very time consuming for the seller and is significantly more expensive than using an international courier.

Did you find out why they opened your package?

Stretched tyres?

Yuk.

Some say it cam be done; some say it cam not. I say... we cam only try

*sunglasses*

Yeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhh!

Well Project Maintenance + 2mz Cams in underway. Have handed her over to The Viking where the following things are going to be done/replaced:

- replace knock sensors

- replace front O2 sensor

- replace rocker cover gaskets

- replace water pump

- replace timing belt, idler pulleys and tensioner

- replace spark plugs

- replace spark tubes

- replace spark leads

- replace TB gasket

- replace inlet manifold gaskets

- install 2mz intake cams

- strip and re-paint supercharger, replace snout bolts + oil plug

- paint EGR assembly

- paint rocker covers

- replace power steering belt

- replace supercharger drive belt (slightly longer belt)

- radiator/engine flush

- replace all radiator hosing

Work was underway this weekend but due to work commitments The Viking fell a little behind. However, the cam covers are off and was pleasantly surprised to see there was very little sediment/gunk within the chamber itself. If the 2mz cams come in time, it will be interesting to see if the factory ecu will handle both the supercharger and the new inlet cams.

Apparently I can see up to 20hp at the fly with just the cams alone but it's undocumented territory for 1mz with 2mz intake AND a supercharger. The boost on top of the different RPM curve will certainly be interesting but only time will tell.

Just so it's not a boring text wall, here are some pictures:

If you want to go flush without spacers, you are going to have to stagger your offset or buy staggered rim widths or both.

I can say with confidence that if you get a 18x8" rim:

Front - +35 (you may get a tiny bit of poke)

Rear - +30 (you may fall a fraction short of flush), +25 will probably give you some poke

I run 18x8, +40 front and rear and I almost get flush with my fronts and the rear is still tucked away. However, if you run a F35/R30 combo and use superlow or coilovers you will need your rear guards rolled (definite) and you may need your fronts rolled as well.

You could buy a pair of 18x8.5 +40 and a pair of 18x9 +40 and you'd probably be more flush than a game of poker. However, I suspect (especially for the rear) you'd have strut/suspension fouling issues.

As much as I would love the flushness different offsets provide, it would make tyre rotation a biatch (unless you can afford to get them to take them off every time you rotate). There is one possible way to make things flush legally with same rim widths but I need to check some measurements and stuff first.

edit: If I were you, buy a set of 18x8" +35 and live with the fact your rears aren't flush.

Handed her over to The Viking. The fix-up + cams (assuming they arrive in time) begins.

I regret to inform you that I will be unable to attend. I have to help The Viking fix my car up :( / ... Conflicting feelings

Hello Stinky McGee.

Welcome to the forums and enjoy your short stay!

i think he needs more than just the badge done definitely a respray on the boot

At minimum a touch up guy to come round, remove the emblem and do his job. Given the cost of them however, it's probably worth paying the extra for a complete respray.

Yay, back to the loop tonight

Finally!

I had a look online and bought a K&N oil & air filter from amazon, cost me around $50 including delivery. I had a look at the air filter and noticed the one of the clips was not locked in,

it did take a little effort to lock the back clip , I guess thats why the previous owner or dealer left it open.

the air filter was not too dirty , but I will change it anyway.

I am realy enjoying driving this car even though it is a 2.4, it pulls very well , driving a manual is so much more fun than auto, my other car is a kluger so you can understand where I am coming from.

thanks

From they way you are talking, I'm assuming you have a Gen1 Kluger as the Gen2 Kluger goes pretty hard (no surprise given the 2gr is a much more powerful engine than the 3mz). The air filter is a good buy but I did abit of reading and unless you get them cheap (but given you're buying from Amazon, I know you are) they probably aren't worth the premium.

Buy a K&N recharge kit for $30 from Repco/Autobarn/Supercheap and you can clean the filter yourself.

A full boot respray with sanding + blending will cost around $250.

nah i got comp on my car if its under my mums name its like $950 if its under my name its like 3k and if im a liosted driver under my mums name its $1600 so yeh...

Still cheaper than under your name though!

Just declare the mod and tell your mum to tell the insurer she needs it to go faster/round corners better etc