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ben yip

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Posts posted by ben yip

  1. Just get a reply from QFM

    > A1RM to suit would be a custom order, so need to allow 3-4 weeks, and

    > $179 per set front or rear. Shipping is free when you order front and

    > rear pads together, or else $8 per axle set individually.

    >

    > Easiest way to order is credit card over the phone, 1300 884 836, or

    > else swing me your details, full name and delivery address (preferably a

    > work or business address!!) and I can fire you through an invoice with

    > direct deposit details.

    I have done several emergency braking on the street and I do think the brakes are weak. However, I cannot find any braking distance chart to support my arguments, anyone can tell me the ZRE braking distance?

  2. I have searched for anyone modifying the brake pad for stronger performance especially for track day.. I would love to have QFM A1RM brake pads but not sure whether it is available for ZRE... Anyone take their ZRE to track? what brake pads are you using?

    I am planning to take the car to track day just for fun

    I don't like the factory brake pads anyway. The factory brakes for the ZRE is too weak, even for street driving..

  3. Hey mate,

    Not 100% sure about the facelifts, but look above the licence plate where the plate lights are. You can feed the wire through one of the lights. Depending on the thickness of the wire, you might need to drill a little hole to make a slightly bigger opening for both the camera wire and the existing place light. To do this, you need to remove the plastics on the boot door; it's all clips! :)

    Peter.

    P.s. I still haven't installed my reverse camera.. Haha

    IMGP6617.jpg

    Hmm... Look like we have the same boot.. I cannot use the license plate light because you do not want it to be on at all times. We can only use reverse light.. Have a look at your picture, connecting the cable from reverse light to license plate light is not easy, I probably use some plastic tapes to stick the cable outside. I know it is ugly, but better than drilling holes

  4. I have a facelft hatch.

    Just got a GPS + reverse camera for $200 from ebay. Since the camera is mounted on the license plate and is only on when the reverse light is on. How can I wire the cable from the reverse light to the license plate

    This is a camera installation from another car, but this car license plate is located under the reverse light,which makes the installation easy

  5. Im still thinking this may not be a "real" release pdf. The resolution is different with the turbo pic with parts, its a HKS kit picture (look at the catch can at the top right of the pic) also, the form clearly says supercharger, the plumbing tells another story. That plumbing for a turbo. No reason S/C pipes to go to the rear of the engine (where a turbo would go) S/c woul dbe at the front.. The yelloow demo car must be turbocharged.

    The rest of it all cool, but not convinced on the turbo/SC setup....

    Yes, i want one..!

    Or the kit at the least, and that carbon knob!

    Someone posted the picture of this car before, the japanese said it is supercharged, not turbo

    I cannot find that link here

  6. Hey was wondering if anyone knows where i can get a unichip for my 03 sportivo and if anyone knows how much power u gain throught em..

    Make sure you can CAI + catback + header before putting unichip

    Please search in this forum for the same question, someone did a unichip on sportivo before

    I do not have a sportivo, but I have ordered a unichip an waiting for delivery, and I can tell you the difference later

  7. I walked across Autobarn to get motor oil today, found out that Philips has very expensive halogen light globe, cost me $138 a pair of low beam. Their effect is far more better than standard halogen,

    I have bought Philips Crystal Vision 4300k....

    It is white in color, in somewhat misunderstood as HID.. Made in Germany

    For reviews, please google it yourself, especially compared with HID...but I did find this video with the top model of Philips Halogen vs HID

    same installation procedure as ordinary halogen, I don't like HID coze too much installation procedures for me, and difficult in replacing light bulbs..good alternative for HID bulbs..

    Whether u like it, up to u

  8. interesting that the graph states the stock figure is 108kw ...... funnily the graph itself looks like it was drawn in mspaint ..... lol ..... 178kw @ fly would roughly be about 130ish kw@w so not far off

    They are using different engine.. they use valematic, we use dual vvti, Our one is a step behind

    our engine is 2zr-fe, their one is 2zr-fae

  9. Hi, does anyone know the flow rate that the ZRE fuel injectors are set at? Also do you know of a larger injector that suits the fuel rail - Connecting electric plugs not an issue.

    Also anyone have a wiring diagram for the ZRE?

    Thanks

    P.s still no luck on having an ECU installed for my turbo set up. Many failed attempts. Car now booked in on the 15th november for full custom work (as no piggy back is suitable) priced at $3,200.

    The malaysia, phillipines and thai corolla have turbo with unichip installed successfully

    http://www.speedlab.com.ph/turbokits.php

    I suggest you call and ask...rather than frustration or reinventing the wheel in Australia

    I am aware those countries are left hand drive, and they are not japanese built corolla..

    that motor is most likely a 1zz... i think its time to go researching in the JAPANESE land :(

    They do support 2zr-fe...people there just love to modify corollas

  10. Hi, does anyone know the flow rate that the ZRE fuel injectors are set at? Also do you know of a larger injector that suits the fuel rail - Connecting electric plugs not an issue.

    Also anyone have a wiring diagram for the ZRE?

    Thanks

    P.s still no luck on having an ECU installed for my turbo set up. Many failed attempts. Car now booked in on the 15th november for full custom work (as no piggy back is suitable) priced at $3,200.

    The malaysia, phillipines and thai corolla have turbo with unichip installed successfully

    http://www.speedlab.com.ph/turbokits.php

    I suggest you call and ask...rather than frustration or reinventing the wheel in Australia

    I am aware those countries are left hand drive, and they are not japanese built corolla..

  11. Hi, i have a Corolla Levin ZR 2011 model that i just brought a week ago, i can pair my iphone with the audio system and works perfectly although when i want to transfer my phone contacts nothing happens.

    Please get back to me ASAP, its bugging me. thanks

    i dun have a ipone, but for nokia, i send the contact to the car via bluetooth...my nokia said "send business contact"

    Also, if you have multiple phone number in one contact, it won't work, you better send contact one by one

  12. Just did a quick run, too many cars even on the quiet roads. Estimated times are around the 9.5-10 seconds. Half tank, fat me (125kg) and spare in.

    Hope u can do it again next time see if you can capture a video for us, when your tank is close to empty. I want to see your 4k to 6k spinning speed

    When my car is full tank, it lost half a second, so, my guess is for every 40kg, you lose around half a second..

    When my car has another passenger, especially a male, the car is very very sluggish...

  13. Ben, your car does seem to rev rather quickly between 4-6k.. if i can get out tonight, ill give it a go for comparison.

    For the rev, don't be fooled by the quick spin of 4-6k, they have changed gear ratio in 2009. Please refer to this post, Can you please confirm your max speed 1st and 2nd gear

    http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=23465

    The max speed for other cars for 1st gear are normally 60, mine is 40

    Also, http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=29213

    Q) What is the difference between ’07-’08 ZREs with ‘09 ZREs?

    A) Both are pre-facelift ZREs. Differences are:

    i) Gear ratios

  14. 2010 Corolla 1.8

    Not a good start for 0-100, but some fun, time is around 8.8-9.2.

    I can push harder, but find it pointless. I saw people push over the rev limit or start up with high rev to get the time down, but that's not the important part of this video

    My start is very bad, i dun hold the clutch good coze I have been holding my mobile as well, otherwise, 8.5 second should not be problem. I have been scared of police as well although that road can do 80 maximum

    Estimated output is 115kw at the crank compared to a stock car.. for 115kw and 1260kg, 8.5 is really a decent time

    Note, the gear ratio for 1st gear and 2nd gear are really short..

    1st gear ends at 40+, and 2nd ends at 80+

    Modifications

    Injen CAI,Catback, WeaponR header, NST pulley

    1/4 tank of fuel, spare wheel off, and I weight 63kg

    (starts at 20 second)

    Video 2

  15. Take a look at the factory pulley for the thin rubber section bonding the inner and outer sections of the dampener. This is what saves your bearings/oil pump etc which the cheap aftermarket pullies do not.

    Yes, they have a rubber

    Hey, here is the info from NSY Pulley regarding this question, whether you believe or not up to u

    Please consider taking a few minutes to read through the 40 pages of customer reviews from people who have been using NST pulleys on the R18 and K20 over the past several years.... You will find no cases of engine failure as a result of NST pulleys...

    the COMPREHENSIVE thread on NST (NonStopTuning) Pulleys - 8th Generation Honda Civic Forum

    http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/sponsored-sale-classifieds/110398-comprehensive-thread-nst-nonstoptuning-pulleys.html (Please register, 40 pages, worth to read)

    You will also find lengthy discussion, such as what I will copy and paste for you here....

    This one deserves an entire book, but here goes...

    Q. Will NST Pulleys lead to premature engine failure?

    I cover this topic at least several times a month but I don't mind, I understand that your cars are a very large investment for all of you and I prefer that you be intelligent and informed about all your modifications. So here we go again... Please take a few minutes to read everything I have posted here, as I worked hard on trying to give you a good explanation on the topic...

    In the past many engines were externally balanced. There was an external balancer attached to the outside of the engine, on the crank snout, used to balance the engine externally. The crank pulley in such engines would then be attached to this balancer. Removal of this balancer is a bad idea. These balancers were most often used on large (6 to V shaped engines of the domestic muscle car era.

    Take a look at any modern (1980s and beyond) Honda, Toyota, Nissan, or other japanese inline 4 and you will find no such balancer. These engines are all internally balanced, and this process has improved even further since the late 1990s. So the topic of a BALANCER does not apply here.

    What you will find on many modern engines is a harmonic damper. This is a small rubber band, litterally less than 2mm, less than 1/8th of an inch, thick that is built into the crank pulley. OEM crank pulleys are often called DAMPERS. Try placing an order for a crank pulley at your dealer and your invoice will read damper. This rubber is used to absorb something called NVH, noise/vibration/harshness. Suffice it to say, this rubber is actually not very good at performing its intended purpose after as little as a few thousand miles. What happens to rubber after a couple years of humidity, weather, snow, rain, etc? It often becomes brittle, hard, and crunchy. Can something with these properties actually absorb vibrations very well?

    Many many NST customers, including people on your own forums, have reported smoother running engines with NST pulleys. Especially at idle. How is this possible if the rubber is such a vital and super important piece??? Perhaps the rubber is not as important as it is cracked up to be???

    Furthermore....

    On the topic of the rubber damper, engine vibrations, or possible threats resulting from elimination of this rubber piece...

    On a relatively understressed near stock motor with bolt ons or low amounts of boost like what most of the people on this forum probably run, a solid pulley will not have any life threatening consiquences. The factory pulley with a 2mm (less than a 1/8th inch) damper is primarily there for wide band NVH (noise vibration harshness) supression from the engine and driveline. Removing the damper and replacing it with a solid pulley may lead to minor addtional NVH but will not harm the engine. In fact, most people claim their engines seem to run smoother with NST pulleys.

    The engineering reasons are that most modern engines have a short, strong crank with, a relatively high natural frequency. The dangerous second harmonic that can cause damage occurs at an rpm that this sort of engine will never see, in the area above 10,000 rpm. Even the stock damper is not tuned for attinuation at this sort of rpm so the argument is somewhat of a moot point.

    Now weak engines that are pushing the limit with LOTS of revs, wimpy cranks, super long strokes, lots of boost and dwelling in the upper rpm ranges for long periods of time can benefit from a damper designed to deal with this sort of operation but our engine is not like this, and probably very few people with this motor on this forum push the envelope that hard. How many 2.0 Liter, 500HP, 12,000RPM motors do we have on these forums?

    As far as I can tell, our engine has a strong and stiff bottom end that is well built for our intended use. It has an internaly balanced crankshaft which is less like to break due to torsional vibration.

    There are a lot of Honda, Toyota, and Nissan guys who use underdrive crank pulleys in road racing series like NASA or SCCA. Road racing is much more punishing on an engine than other motorsports. The engine is subjected to run times lasting roughly 30 minutes with the engine always in the upper ranges of its rpm limit. One race weekend is the equivlent of hundreds of 1/4 mile passes. These guys would not use NST pulleys if they were not reliable.

    NST sponsors the first ever wheel to wheel Scion tC NASA Road Race car. The same car is also very competitive in the Grand Am series and has factory backing from Toyota, Scion, and TRD. This car has been using pulleys from NST with great results since day one.

    NST has sponsored several drift cars participating in the professional US drift series, Fromula Drift. Several of our cars have also competed in the NOPI Drift series. To make things better, NST products are also used in autocross, time attack, and drag cars. These cars have been using NST pulleys with no issues of any kind for the past few seasons.

    We could go on and on...

    Is a solid crank pulley harmless to all engines? No it is not. As I said... small, super high reving engines, when modified way past the simple bolt on stages may have problems. These engines reach critcal harmonics, past the 10,000 rpm range, an rpm only reached by certain RACE engines.

    A mildly modded inline six will most likely be fine but one subjected to high rpm for long periods of time (90% of its life) with lots of boost will probably suffer. In this case , the stock balancer/damper is probably not adequate either.

    Some of the older american V8 engines are externaly balanced and it is critical not to use a solid hub pulley not designed for these applications, or damage to the engine could result. You will not find solid NST pulleys on our website for such engines.

    Our engines and most around here do not fall into the above catagories. Rest assured that your engines will not blow up and die or have a reduced life in street and even racing use with these parts.

    I would bet that every "expert" that tells you otherwise has little personal, practical, real world experience with the subject; as it applies in your case.

    Again, I understand that your cars are a very large investment and that you depend on them as your daily means of transportation, so I do not take your questions personally. But please remember... No NST product is designed to cause you any harm or grief. We are not in business to sell junk. PERIOD.

  16. Pulleys without harmonic balancers become a big issue at higher rpm. Many 2zzges have suffered obliterated oil pumps due to the pulleys in the US. Though since the 2zr doesn't rev to 8k, might not be such an issue..

    It is an endless debate regarding this topic, some said it does not hurt the balance, some said it does..

    so really a gamble to me really.

    I have posted already that lots of yaris 1.8 people using it without problems, so this is a safe gamble

    The original factory pulley does not have bearing or moving parts, it is just a heavy iron. I doubt this big piece of iron will create balance..

    Or I can do a chemical analysis of the factory pulley, might be there are some secrets in that iron !!!

  17. This new type of pulse plug can replace the traditional spark plug to give power

    articles and hp increase figures as below. The power gain is comparable to a pulley in a Civic Si, (check link below)

    but in a lotus where it uses sportivo engine, almost no gain.. (check link below)

    Any comments?

    http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f25/pulstar-pulse-plugs-dyno-video-pics-56051/

    http://www.importtuner.com/powerpages/impp_0809_2008_honda_civic_si_power_pages/nst_lightweight_pulley_set.html

    http://www.carbibles.com/productreviews_pulstar.html

    http://www.pulstar.com/products.htm

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