Speedz

I did saw a black evo lancer dishing out a speeding fine to a guy in a barina-ish cargo carrier some weeks ago...

And also a Subaru Liberty on a highway patrol too...

350 bucks eh...

tempting tempting!!! :lol:

hmmmm

either way... gonna give it a try... since the yaris is a toy for me to play with and its cheap to maintain once outside warranty!

and i always get mix up with the 5w and 20,30,40 and 50s... (so fark me that post was badly done by me... lol)

i think the old magna i once had was using 15w-50 coz it got leaky seals which was blowing white smoke...(3L V6...) it was much better after changing to a thicker oil...

Looks good as new !

Hope its the last time the car needs a panel beater visit !

For young engines...

the lower the viscosity the better... saves abit of fuel... so I choose either 5w or even 0w (gonna try the 0w on my yaris next time round... lol)

only the older engines requires a higher viscosity oil (thicker) to better protect the engine...

Either way fully synthetic is good except Mobile are the most readily available off the shelf from your Supercheap or Autobarn...

You want the best oil...?

Mobile Synthetic is the best out there... you looking at about 80 bucks per 5L...(from memory at either Autobarn or Supercheap...)

Aurion uses 5.7L of those stuff...

I myself use Penrite 5w 30 for both the Yaris and Aurion... (from memory it is a synthetic blend...)

Obviously for me I can tell the difference after the oil change coz it was all black stuff coming out... lol

I think its because you in Sydney everything is a rip off!

AAMI have that car replacement hire thing as a extra on top from memory...!

AAMI is really a no frills insurance company... :P

Got to say when it comes to insurance, I was having a chat with a CBA teller and he tried to quote me CBA comprehensive car insurance, funny thing is that it will cost me 1k to fully insure my Aurion where as AAMI only cost at max 600 bucks...! Thats a rating one!

But CBA does have all the bells and whistles attached to it such as... no claim bonus on cracked windscreen and the rest i forgot and the brochure its in the bin some months ago... lol

When my insurance is up I might ask budget direct car insurance a ring to see if they can give me a even better deal!

PS btw I can pick up the care for u on Friday LOL.... :D :P

i got those chrome valve caps on my yaris, i got 3 of them nicked off when i was in the CBD one night...

but those on my aurion still happily right at home there.... ;)

Thats hard luck mate...!

All I hope is for your beast to look brand new when you get it back next week or so!

Paint it glossy red?

spray on dark film... thats my idea...

How about just unplugging the sensor?

I see the Yaris mob does that under the seat?

Yeah you still have about 50km range in reserve before the tank is really empty... all cars are designed that way...

Owned! :P

Cant be dim mate... ;)

Or or or... tryin to fit a Evo kit to a Hyundai Excel! :)

Hmm....

DJKOR...

the 25 SMD LED you got how bright is it?

gives better light output than the standard halogen bulb?

how much did it cost you to do that...?

i would like that feature of unlocking only the driver side door too, turn on all the parkers and tail lights of the car when I unlock the door...

I'm a noob i know ... :P

i'm sure DJKOR will post up the link to the ebay seller... :)

Well here I am ;) . With the HID's, there are many different types you can get off eBay if you choose that approach. You just need to do a simple search of 'H11 HID' and you will find more than enough options. When choosing a colour temperature (the figure with a 'k' at the end), you need to figure whether you want the best in performance or best in looks. I'd recommend 6000k if you want the brightest, or 8000k if you want the best in looks. With that said, even the 8000k is really bright.

In case you are curious, I bought my HID's from the eBay seller "SUNSTAR-HID". They say you usually get what you pay for, but with HID's that can be obtained for as little as $60-$70 from eBay, you can't really go wrong. I have been using cheap kits for a while without any issues. Just make sure you install them tightly otherwise you have the potential to end up with this... and this is a more expensive kit.

cheers DJKOR. thank you. ill look into it. you guys a full of info. wrapped do i need to buy the bulbs with the ballast or without and is it as simple as changing bulbs or is there more to it?:D :D :D

There is a thread somewhere in the forum that linked a DIY HID conversion kit guide...

In a nutshell...

1st - you need the whole kit including the ballast...

2nd - will need to take off the front bumper and headlight housing to fit in the bulb nicely without damaging it...

3rd - do it in a garage as if its your 1st go, if you never had experience in taking off the bumper, you will be doing it for 1/2 a day... (to make sure you get everything right without getting nasty sunburn...)

4th - make sure you got a fridge full of beers ;)

Cheers

+ 1 for the Penrite...! :)

thicker oils is better for older engines, in the old TF Magna i had for a few months it got rid of 80% of the white fumes... (seeping seals... a 600 bucks proper job...) and got rid of the car too ;)

you can go expensive route for Mobile semi...

but in the end older engines its better to use mineral oils...

Hmm....

condensation in the pipes...

maybe there is some water vapour in the engine? (i know thats possible...)

Well i do 124km everyday to GC for work and back so 90% of my trip is on a freeway sitting on 120km/hr on the speedo...

the best i've got is 8.3L/100km... :) with that speed...

probably will come down even more to 7.9L/100km if i stick to just 100km/hr on the speedo...

I wonder if will bring any tangible benefits in terms of response and perhaps increase in the ponies count?