cruiseh

Im not sure how youd quantify severe vs slight, other than seeing how much variance there is in the castor during alignment. if half a degree difference side to side, get the 'slight'kit, or if 1 degree of more, get the 'severe'kit. having said that, i got the slight as the pull is moderate in my opinion, but it is definately worse since toyota did the alignment (pre buying bushes). im lazy. currently all my times being taken tiling my house so still havent fitted the bushes yet.. sorry

Thats a good price! Thanks for contributing the info. Have you noticed the car is any better or haven't had a chance to have them installed yet? Not installed yet. Ill post up results when done, my mates shop is closed all next week, so likely will be a bit after that..

heres the casor bush kit. there are two kits, SPF2904K bush kit for 'severe pull to left' has two offset bushes, adds castor passenger side and removes castor drivers side SPF2903K bush kit for 'slight pull to left' has one offset and one std bush, adds castor passenger side and keeps drivers side OEM i bought the slight pull kit.. cost $159.47 hope this helps.. Pics

yeah.. however there seems to be alot missing. rant time.. your microscopic sig block should include 'check the faqs.. :)' To be more specific i was searching for this from your faqs which is a dead linkive noticed every forum has those guys love pointing people at faqs/search/your a noob and its pretty amusing seeing how many posts where you have done that. thanks for the faqs.. they are somewhat useful,and i printed them out a while back, but some people are more technical than others. I need more info. There are way too many dead links around.. Im not unappreciative however, obviously you go further than most with these types of vehicle, but im not the usual sort of guy who accepts that it is how others say it is, without at least checking the validity of the information myself. (yes, you mentioned that in your microscopic sig block info) i learned not to listen to others on the web without sorting all the info available first..a valuable trait when building all the suby motors ive done.. Im actually trying to determine how ****ty a design the recirc air system is in the poverty sportivo manual a/c system, and after reading the service manual that deals with it (very thinly i might add) it seems the toyota a/c computer likes to vary the amount of incoming vs recirc air depending on the temperature the user has selected (manually in my case). therefore, im stuck with yet another system thats designed with no thought for what the user wants it to do. I drove a hybrid camry yesterday and it had the dual zone climate. switched to recirc, the system definately responded. the fan noise increased,a nd you could hear the inlet suction of the fan system. My POS however does absolutely nothing. Ill check it this weekend by spraying some eucalyptus spray in the pass footwell and see if it actually recirculates it. I suspect it isnt. If not, ill strip the bloody dash and fix myself. Some of the guys on here, yourself included have way more patience than me with the toyota service dept. Ive concluded they are all clueless and have a very high opinion of themselves. I mentioned the issues im having (pulling to left, clunk on startup, recirc issues) and they did the following: wheel alignment - result - did nothing useful. still pulls. reset the transaxle compensation codes and did a system code reset (like how is that going to combat a clunk).. turns out its likely the abs system checks youve mentioned, however the toyota service guy said the car doesnt do that. - Yep, they are SME's alright (thats sarcasm too) recirc.. uhh, checked it, and we replaced the pollen filter (no you didnt, i marked it with a pen, it was clean and you didnt change it.) so toyota dealers for me are a waste of my time. I cant afford to be spending hours doing the dealer shuffle to and fro at my cost for no good result. my car was actually delivered to me with 2 out of the three strut top bolts finger loose on each side...?? why? they reckon it was an ex dealer demo.. how hard can it be to check things properly? Useless. therefore, it seems my excuse for selling my sube was to avoid working on cars, isnt going to be happening for this car. At least if i do it myself, i know its done right. Now i miss the bloody sube. At least it got the adrenalin pumping... end rant. Mods - i know this is somewhat off topic. nuke it if you see fit. DJKOR - ease up, im sure everyone appreciates the work youve done with the faqs.

hi guys.. all the filesharing sites are dead links. anyone got a valid link for the complete service manuals please?Torrent fine..

my bet.. the one way valve in the pump is bleeding fuel pressure off over time, so when the car is cold / hasnt run for a while, the pump needs time to build rail pressure. to test this theory, turn the key on and leave on for 5 seconds before starting. Give sthe pump time to prime before engine firing. Does this make a difference? If so, its not a big deal, you can work around it, but may point to a fuel pump failure in the future..

i simply cut the factory capacitor from the connector and soldered the new crossover wires after identifying the terminals the tweeter uses with a multimeter. But, i also gutted the factory tweet and remnoved the wiring/voicecoil. one thing i found, if you overload the head unit with a very low impedance, it doesnt like it and distorts very badly. My crossover was backwards and presented a one ohm load on one side and almost open cct on the other side to AC, (no markings on the crossovers) so you may have this issue? also, my head unit is now running -2 treble to sound natural. the factory tweeters are terrible.. try just turn your treble down. http://i1111.photobu...71/IMG_2826.jpg

i suspect mine has issues. its simply doing nothing. ill hit them up in warranty

Hi Guys.. My recirc does not seem to stop outside air coming in.. in fact, sometimes its worse as all you can smell are diesel soot fumes when behind 4wd's and trucks. is this normal? does anyone else have this issue? My friend Chris at Inline steering said that there was a law against totally sealed recirc systems these days, but my wifes Eos has no such issues with fumes into the cabin when on recirc. This is really frustrating.. your input appreciated.. i also note when i press the recirc button, the light comes on but i cant hear any actuators moving things around. wonder if i have an issue?? cheers

Having just installed a pair of front speakers http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php/topic/36335-introduction-its-me-%3B/ (Jaycar kevlar 6x9, plus some titanium dome tweets) i can assure you, you will get better clarity, but not better bass until you install an amplifier. the head unit internal amp runs out of steam very early on and the sound fizzles trying to drive less efficient speakers. its not very powerful. the std speakers do a better job as they are very efficient. by all means buy some front speakers, but id save and buy an amplifier too, even a 4x50rms will transform the sound..

Finished the passenger side.. Even from the headunit the sound quality is much improved. Needs an amplifier badly though. Decided to reuse the Audison LRX2.250 from my subie, and throw the alpine in it before it sells

Here Here! cruiseh: Thats quite an impressive thread over there, and love the RS wagons!! Wish i had taken that many photos of my old cars. Hillclimber sounds interesting got a thread on that? GDUBB: Sorry dude didnt mean to put you down. We are all in the same boat as car enthusiasts. Im sure we have all spent too much money on cars and we will all keep on doing so!! POWER!!!!! not yet. doingh house renovations this year, then ill look for a shell. Idea is, MK1 Escort (i have a thing for them, was founding president of ACT small ford club in 2000) with floor cut out, 3/4 chassis and cage, and mid mounted sube engine with transaxle pushing 350 or so hp. should be cheap to build, and fun to drive :) that my idea anyway.. ive (luckily) got access to full workshop and loads of equipment, my best friend runs his ownb workshop and builds rallycars (www.techworkz.com.au) so we will have a crack at a hillclimber for **** n giggles :) bvut i digress.. back on the exhaust system ideas, wouldnt a pair of 3"resonators work well, still straight through, but would take the rasp away and be nice and deep sounding??

some pics for those who like to see the cars now, started the sound upgrade, got an alpine MRV503 amp to run the fronts (not installed yet) and some Jaycar Kevlar 6*9 speakers. Also had some leftover Digital Designs tweeters and crossovers from some speakers i had ages ago, so installed those in the factory locations some might get uptight because i destroyed the factory tweet.. meh, i dont care, the DD can stay when i sell the car.. I did find though someone has played with this car, 4 of the factory clips are missing or broken. time to see the toyota spare parts lads and get some more.. As it stands, i only did one side of the car so far, and the clarity is astounding. slightly less bass due to less efficient drivers, but the mid and top end is sooo much better even off the factory deck,, so heres some pics for you.

Exactly mate..i wanted to mention the fuel economy gain too. I got the similar gain after deleting the mufflers and it sounds awesome plus the acceleration gain is good too. SImply loving it :) Also, more power and better fuel economy don't exactly go together unless you are making your engine burn fuel more efficiently... which there isn't much room to do so for a modern engine like this. not technically correct. By allowing the engine to breath with less restriction, you get less reversion into the cylinders, better scavenging, and slightly leaner AFR's as a result. When i put tubular headers on my subaru with no other changes, i had to richen the fuel mix right across the map as it went on average a whole afr point leaner. Ive no doubt there will be an economy gain, its common with most cars to gain economy, and you may see a slight power/torque gain from the leaner mix, but id imagine its largely a placebo from having a loud exhaust and thinking its faster because it sounbds faster. back to back testing would prove or disprove this, im sure the poster in question could easily do so with a g-tech. Personally, i really dislike the sound of the muffler replacement pipes, theres no depth to the note and its 'raspy' and makes me think of early vn commodores with bogan special exhausts. A decent system with jdm mufflers might sound ok, but its still an auto, and sounds like an attempt to make people think you have a faster car, when in reality, it wont add anything in terms of real performance without a decent ecu remap.. For me, id rather leave the exhaust alone, and work on getting rid of the resonators in the intake, these engines sound great through induction note only, and it keeps it sounding sedate when not sinking the boot in.. I dont mean to be a killjoy lads, but after owning a 11 second car, the Aurion is a slug, and not really worth spending money on performance mods in my mind.. (but its my opinion, and not meant to denigrate others choice of spending their hard earned..) Shadow: Are you saying that you have stock mufflers with the centre resonator deleted? RE the more power and better economy, I would have to say the economy is relatively unchanged and would agree with DJOKR. The factory managment is quite smart, and will adjust fueling, timing to compensate for the slight flow increase. CRUISEH, I cant see there being much scavenging on factory manifolds pumping straight into a CAT then going through the restrictive Y piece. On your subaru im asuming you had tuned length headers installed which are excellent at scavenging, which your standalone aftermarket ECU could not compensate for ( im assuming thats what you were running). I would think the same would apply for power. Slight increase but as CRUISEH said placebo as the car now sounds faster it feels faster. I to have come from an 11sec car (cressida) and think the aurion does alright, gets up and boogies, sounds alright (now) but still uses under 10l/100ks and the mrs can drive confidently to work and back. I say modify your cars as you see fit otherwise the roads will be full of prius's!! Cheers see my íts me'thread for details on the sube. I built the engine, forged EJ25, Tuned the ECU (haltech E8) and well, there aint a nut or bolt untouched in the old gal.. but its a youngsters game. My next mod project will be a dedicated hillclimber..

Amen. Hence selling the subaru, and buying the Aurion :) Its a great machine, and IMHO better than the commodore or falcon equivalent.

Exactly mate..i wanted to mention the fuel economy gain too. I got the similar gain after deleting the mufflers and it sounds awesome plus the acceleration gain is good too. SImply loving it :) Also, more power and better fuel economy don't exactly go together unless you are making your engine burn fuel more efficiently... which there isn't much room to do so for a modern engine like this. not technically correct. By allowing the engine to breath with less restriction, you get less reversion into the cylinders, better scavenging, and slightly leaner AFR's as a result. When i put tubular headers on my subaru with no other changes, i had to richen the fuel mix right across the map as it went on average a whole afr point leaner. Ive no doubt there will be an economy gain, its common with most cars to gain economy, and you may see a slight power/torque gain from the leaner mix, but id imagine its largely a placebo from having a loud exhaust and thinking its faster because it sounbds faster. back to back testing would prove or disprove this, im sure the poster in question could easily do so with a g-tech. Personally, i really dislike the sound of the muffler replacement pipes, theres no depth to the note and its 'raspy' and makes me think of early vn commodores with bogan special exhausts. A decent system with jdm mufflers might sound ok, but its still an auto, and sounds like an attempt to make people think you have a faster car, when in reality, it wont add anything in terms of real performance without a decent ecu remap.. For me, id rather leave the exhaust alone, and work on getting rid of the resonators in the intake, these engines sound great through induction note only, and it keeps it sounding sedate when not sinking the boot in.. I dont mean to be a killjoy lads, but after owning a 11 second car, the Aurion is a slug, and not really worth spending money on performance mods in my mind.. (but its my opinion, and not meant to denigrate others choice of spending their hard earned..)

ive searched and read loads of threads, but no helpful info available. there was another thread that spoke of adjusters, but i believe those were for the factory equipped hid cars as my lights dont have the adjuster mechanism. Mine does however have 3 small 8mm adjusters, the top one ive figured adjusts the horizontal aim of the projectors, and the other two hard to get at ones adjust the highbeam aim ? or one at least does, but is there an adjustment for height of the projector/low beam? if anyone knows exactly which bolt adjusts which function, and can post a pic showing so, id be appreciative. if not ill figure it out and do it and post a pic myself.. cheers

sure. send me a pm when you are ready to move it on..

If anyone out there with a MY10 facelift model onwards, has changed the stereo unit in their vehicle for something better, andn wants to sell me the old factory unit, please get in touch. I just want one to tide me over for 6 months. Only reason i want it is for the USB input.. thanks, Paul

im thinking this would be nice http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/110823672285?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_4247wt_1163 or this with the additional nav unit http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/140535094054?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_2992wt_905

ill add to this discussion some more when ive done a tank or three. Still 2/3 throught the first tank full, and the onboard meter is telling me 10.6lt/100 around town (ACT, drive to work in traffic, drive home in free flowing traffic). However, when i filled the tank, the distance to empty said 13klms, and i only got 57 lt into the tank brimming it, so if as the spec says its a 70 lt tank, then theres still another easy 100klms in it. Next tank, im going to experiment with the following: ill run 2x cans subaru upper engine cleaner through the engine (magic in a can), then ill disconnect the battery, reset ecu then fill up with BP E10 and see how far i can get till it runs dry. Ill carry a jerry of fuel in the back when i get close to empty. im expecting i should see 650+ easily around town based on the tripmeters average usage figures. will also start a ms excel spreadsheet for logging the usage this year. My suby and the wifes Eos always do better on BP, so ill stick to BP fuels

legendary.. now to find that thread about grounding the pink? wire to enable instrument panel display command buttons to work.. someone mentioned removing a circuit board in a thread.. a bit over the top. i think when i do this, ill do a complete thread with pictures showing exactly what i do for posterity, and to help noobs like me find all the info in one spot.. cheers lads.

guys, ive searched but not found.. does anyone have a source for a stereo surround to suit std square double din dvd units most manufacturers make (ie alpine pioneer etc) think im going to buy a pioneer dvd/navigation unit . just cant bring myself to trust the ebay chinese units. of the 5 people i contacted on ebay whod bought them, 3 came back and said they were buggy junk.. too much risk for the money... WOW have a listing for the plastic facia surround but its quite expensive..

registering interest in the next GB, and soon would be lovely. Thanks,

Hello All. Names Paul. just bought an Aurion. (why does that sound like a line youd use at alcoholics anonymous???) :P Seriously though, i bought the car as its a sensible option and i dont like the opposition excepting the g6E turbo, but thats contrary to my intention to buy a car that doesnt drink fuel like my current one.. i dont consider the aurion a fast car. but its comfortable, and has enough grunt to be fun. The stereo in my model (late 09 sportivo sx6) is a letdown, so im on the market for something better. hoped someone would know a bit about this unit>>> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/8-Toyota-Camry-Aurion-Car-DVD-GPS-DVB-T-Player-Stereo-/230659893433?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35b466a8b9#ht_17317wt_1031 which im considering buying. Any comments please, most welcome. My previous car is a 93 Subaru RS Turbo Wagon, ive built from the ground up. You can read about it here>> http://www.subyclub.com/index.php/topic/4418-pauls-93-rst-wagon/ but it was getting a bit much to manage .. too close to the edge as far as usability goes. Go, yes it did that well.. 0-100 in or under 4 seconds. 1/4 mile in 12 or thereabouts, but not cruisy and relaxed. its a young mans game, and i just turned 41... groan... anyway, joined to tap the teh resources that exist regards this car. Nice to meet everyone, regard's Paul