Regular Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Clubber997 last won the day on November 3 2014

Clubber997 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

6 A Little Bit of Respect

About Clubber997

  • Rank
    Regular Member
  • Birthday 12/01/1997

Profile Information

  • Gender*
  • Toyota Model
    Hilux SR5 4x4
  • Toyota Year
  • Location
    New South Wales
  • How did you find us?
  • Annual Mileage
    5001 to 10,000
  • Interests
    Classic Cars
    General Automotive
    Motorsport & Racing
    Car Restoration
    Car Modification
    Road Trips
    Food & Drink
    Computers & Electronics

Contact Methods

  • First Name

Recent Profile Visitors

1,734 profile views
  1. I know it's doable and has been done. I'm not aware of the specifics but it is most definitely not an easy job!!! Chassis, engine mounts (and size), bellhousing pattern are completely different. Not to mention all the electronic and pollution that goes with it. Besides, the 1KD is a much more powerful engine but many would argue that it is far less reliable and a overall worse engine. You'd be better off sticking with the 3l unless it's a project car and you don't mind a lot of **** around just for the ****s and giggles.
  2. Speaking as a Toyota tech, 100% for looks only. If you go for an aftermarket system or remove some of the mufflers for the OEM system it may be a bit louder (although I dunno why you'd want that, it'd just sound *******...)
  3. You could chop the plug off the heated mirror and install the standard mirror plug onto the "standard wires" and then run the other wires to power/a separate switch etc? Tricky part would be figuring out which wire does what though... Just an idea, anyway.
  4. How many Ks? Could well be the head gasket, especially with all that oil coming out of the back of the engine (a relatively common occurrence) but I'd clean it all up first as has been previously suggested before jumping straight in and ripping the head off... Is it definitely coming from the top of the engine? Could also be that cam seal. There could well be several leaks. When was the timing belt last done, and do you know if the cam seal etc was changed at the same time? (Always a good idea).
  5. So the fog light wiring is already installed? Why can't you just hook them up? (if necessary find the correct part number relay/fuse and install them in the fusebox if they're not already there). If you're asking how to wire them up, I'd just install a normal relay somewhere in the engine bay, with a switch mounted in the cabin to turn them on/off independently (regardless of what the other headlights are doing).
  6. Welcome! What sort of Camry? Any mods?
  7. Ok, so as you may see on my previous topic, I am currently working through some charging issues on my Hilux. I decided to start a separate thread to ask a couple of specific questions to help me diagnose and fix the issues I'm having. 1. The regulator has 6 wires going to it. Does anyone know what specifically each wire does, or know where I can get this information? 2. Is it worth upgrading to a later model Bosch internally regulated alternator while I'm at it? Pros/cons? 3. Does anyone have any recommendations on good value-for money 4WD batteries? (I live in NSW). 4. Is it worth installing a "cut out switch" in the alternator exciter circuit while I'm messing around with this stuff to try and prevent alternator damage when doing deep water crossings? Will this be effective? Thanks in advance.
  8. Just another question, there are 6 wires going to the regulator - does anyone happen to know what they all do, and which ones are which?
  9. Hmmm... I know the battery is pretty old, and I know the terminals/some of the cables are pretty dodgy. Oh well, I guess getting the alternator tested/new reg/new reg plug and wires/new battery terminals and main/earth leads, and a thorough inspection and replace anything else found to be dodgy along the way... Thanks heaps Trent, and if anyone else has any other ideas/input hit me up!
  10. They have 2 - one on the exhaust manifold in front of the radiator, the other on the exhaust manifold on the back of the engine, underneath the car. Very tricky to get to. It could be a little hard to get out, but a decent breaker bar, a single hex impact socket that is THE CORRECT SIZE, and a bit of WD-40 if necessary will help it along if it's a little tricky. Take your time and you'll be fine. As Bill said, try cleaning it first before replacing it, you can buy special cleaners or you can use contact cleaner/brake cleaner etc if you're stingy. Make sure to check the wiring too - if it's a intermittent fault it could well be a loose connector/broken wire etc. Try cleaning the connectors in the same way as the oxygen sensor, and carefully inspecting the wiring/harness.
  11. Would this cause regulators to bust themselves though? And the thing is, the charging system was working (mostly) fine until a couple of days ago.... And I don't think this would cause the alternator output wire to burn out?
  12. Hello all; I recently bought a 1984 SR5 2L (3Y petrol) 4x4 Hilux, and I'm having some trouble with it. Basically if I hook the alternator up, it overcharges massively (anywhere from 18/19-22 V when idling fast when warm, around 1000-1100RPM - it'll sit at about 12/13 volts when idling cold, around 600RPM). Now the obvious thing to do is to replace the regulator - however, not only does it have a brand new regulator on there, according to the previous owner, that's the third regulator in the less than 2 years he's owned it. It's also had a new alternator fitted at some point, and a new coil (so it's obviously had these electrical issues for a while). On top of this, the main alternator output wire has burnt through - twice (Only once for me but at least twice recently). Now my next thought was that there is a short somewhere, but aside from some crook wires near the regulator plug I could find nothing wrong with the harness anywhere. It has been suggested to me to replace the whole wiring harness, but seeing as it runs underneath both guards and behind the firewall (and includes some emissions stuff, the headlight loom, and **** knows what else within the one harness), I'm not very keen on this approach. So. Has anyone had, or heard of anyone having, these issues or similar? Any ideas on what I should do (or if anyone has a wiring diagram or some idea what pin checks I can do, etc)? After doing some research on Google, I get the impression that I may have the wrong type of alternator (A-type circuit vs B-type circuits, or something - but this was very vague and on an American site) - does anyone know how to check this? And finally, it has occured to me to upgrade to a Bosch internally regulated alternator with a bit more grunt - maybe 80 or 90 amp (for down the track). Does anyone have a rough idea how much is involved in this, and if there are any drawbacks (are the later model bosch alternators less water resistant or something, etc?). Sorry for the long post, and thanks in advance!!
  13. Ok no worries :) - with the coolant, it'd be a good idea to keep topping it up until it stays around full (a bit over won't hurt it at all, worst thing that'll happen is you'll lose a little bit) - it might just have some air in it, if they didn't bleed it properly after changing it....
  14. Ah... In which case it should not have been touched. Maybe it's just a coincidence... Maybe take it in, explain the situation, and ask if the foreman can have a look at it (it's a bit hard not being there in person)... And if they try and screw you over or brush it off, go to a reputable independent or another Toyota dealer and see what they say...