campbeam

3 hours ago, Willy wagon said:

I have a couple of W126 Mercedes cars, one a 300SE 4 door and the other a 380SEC saloon coupe. While I enjoy tooling around in the two Mercs, I do get a real buzz out of zipping along in the V6 wagon. It's another world and heaps of fun! Before getting the wagon, I would have a chat to the drivers of Camry taxi cabs and they just raved about the reliability etc of the Camrys. So I thought if the cab drivers drive Camrys en masse well that's good enough for me!

I was thinking that you had the 4 cylinder version. I got very interested when you posted V6 so not surprised that you are enjoying your wagon.

Toyota reliability starts with their engineering and quality control but you have to regularly service them for long term ownership.

I am very much into DIY preventative maintenance so inclined to over-service my vehicle to ensure high reliability. 

Certainly looks like a LED strip light to me. Presumably it is not working but the other brake lights do work, hence your post.

Have you definitely checked the electrical connection and the wiring for this spoiler?

Following link is just to give you some ideas about removing that spoiler light. Personally, I would be looking more closely at those end tabs hoping that they can be removed separately. 

https://www.superspares.com.au/boot-spoiler-led-light-for-toyota-camry-sk20-08-19

47 minutes ago, AurionX2 said:

Good stuff Tony. But maaaan, how did you get that filter housing look so clean? That's crazy, I could drink from it! Hmm, having an unfiltered Cooper's ale from a 2GR-FE filter housing through a genuine Toyota filter, that got me thinking...

Which reminds me at my last oil change I forgot to pour some new oil in the housing before installing it *hand tight*. My wrist'o'meter displayed 22.8Nm, so I'm in the ballpark 😛

Spray the housing with degreaser then give it a good wipe with a rag.

Definitely remember to pour some new oil into the housing so the engine gets the oil just that little bit sooner. It is all these extra time-consuming details that add to the DIY benefits of a job well done. 

2 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Would be cool if you guys were nearby and be able to help each other. I don't mind helping anyone who asks for help, especially like minded folk and the ones who deserve it.

Unfortunately, my secret stash is no more a secret lol. It is tucked away very well from prying eyes that's one thing I can vouch for 😜

If we were nearby, I would definitely want to come and have a look at all of your tools and gadgets. Knowing the background, I had a bit of a grin seeing the photo of the Omik removal tool.

Similar mindset and I prefer to help those that deserve it.

I remember your photos so I can guess where your stash is tucked away; in the best available storage conditions.

3 hours ago, KAA said:

Yes Ash Tony is our MUSE for all things service and detail wise, wish he was closer too me as I would just give him the fob and say go at it. He even has the secret stash of Nulon so all would be good. LOL

KAA

Nothing secret about Tony's stash of Nulon. 😁 I have got plenty of fluids and filters on hand ready for any impromtu services. Still kicking myself for not having a water pump on hand for when it did make its replacement warning noises.  

This is Tony's service report.

I have been doing previous reports with an Oil Change Overkill thread. "Sludgy" is behaving herself so far after the last oil change. Definitely enjoying my Aurion. 

Trying hard to get somewhat similar results using Tony's Aurion as a benchmark. Love a challenge. I have been using both genuine and non-genuine filters. Tony is fairly consistent using Nulon 5W-30 whereas I use different brands of oil.

I am aiming for a 6 month or 5K oil change interval depending upon how contaminated the oil starts to look on the dipstick and in the valve cover.

I normally put the front wheels up on ramps which is easier than using jacks and bit extra working room.

Better give lots of credit to the genuine oil filter cartridge for the oil to be looking so good after 8.7K.

Thin film of oil on the cartridge housing gives a good representation of the colour of the used oil. Good to have a comparison for my next oil change most likely due at 230K.

I admit that I am not the greatest predictor of the future. Perhaps I am too conservative and risk adverse thus being a late adopter of technology.

Interesting to see this YouTube video and its prediction which should not be that surprising.

On 2/13/2021 at 8:52 AM, campbeam said:

Repco have a weekend sale which includes 30% off transmission fluid. 

Price is $36.40 for 4 litres of Penrite ATF LV 

https://www.repco.com.au/en/oils-fluids/engine-oils-fluids/transmission-fluid/penrite-atf-lv-4l-atflv004/p/A9614765 

Latest Repco catalogue out today.

Same special price of $36.40 for 4 litres of Penrite ATF LV 

https://www.repco.com.au/en/oils-fluids/engine-oils-fluids/transmission-fluid/penrite-atf-lv-4l-atflv004/p/A9614765

15 minutes ago, Swaffo said:

Thanks. The most promising comment yet. I am a Penrite convert for years so I will look out for the trans. Oil. 

This Forum is a treasure trove of information. There are a few lengthy threads about this topic that are worth reading from the initial post. As per usual, Tony's post is a very good summary and to the point. My last Penrite ATF LV purchase was last year from Repco when they had a special at approx. $36

1 hour ago, Tony Prodigy said:

OK cool. Toyota WS fluid is recommended by Toyota, of course, but as you said it is very expensive for what it is. The alternative, and we think it is better, is the Penrite ATV LV fluid. It's a fully synthetic fluid. We all use it here with no issues reported. If you hold out for the specials from the usual suspects, you can get a 4lt for around $36. This enough to do around 3 pan drains and 2 containers for a full flush. The filter you speak of is also known as a strainer. Most times it's not even required to be replaced but in your case with high mileage and no known history, definitely recommend that.

Quite a few years ago, I was using a different brand WS ATF then changed to the Penrite ATF LV for the last 3 years. I have gone looking and have yet to find a better quality ATF with the Toyota WS specification at that price when on special.

I have noticed differences in posts about the amount of ATF replaced when doing a transmission pan drain. For my Oct. 2006 Build 40 series Aurion, I am using at least 2 litres of ATF per pan drain if not 2.2 litres. Definitely agree that you will need to have 8 litres [2x4L containers] for a full flush.

58 minutes ago, garthkh said:

I am in my late 70's now and I hope I don't have to buy another.

Look after both yourself and the RAV4 with plenty of regular and preventative maintenance.

Do a good enough effort and your grandson will be taking over this one as well when you move on to an autonomous driving capable vehicle.

Just have to stick around long enough to make that happen. It is all part of my future retirement plans.

Welcome to the Forum. I expect that you would have the service history. If it has only been serviced every 12 months and you are planning upon keeping the vehicle long term then I would recommend oil changes every 6 months using a quality full synthetic engine oil.

My usual place is local wreckers. These links may be useful.

https://www.instructables.com/An-easy-and-permanent-fix-for-older-car-door-seals/

https://www.indrub.com.au/rubber-products/door-seals.html

On 3/20/2021 at 9:04 PM, tassie toyota flyer said:

I'm also looking for a schedule of service - the cam belt has been done 70,000km ago and i'm thinking its due again but cant find any reference to intervals between cam belt changes - any help appreciated.

Welcome. My suggestion is to confirm what engine is actually fitted to your vehicle then look at YouTube videos to get an idea of what to expect when replacing the timing belt. Usually the water pump is replaced in conjunction with a timing belt replacement.

Following guides support my initial thought about considering a replacement at 100,000 kms. Definitely confirm whether the engine is non-interference or not.

Better to be safe than sorry.

https://assets.gates.com/content/dam/gates/home/resources/resource-library/catalogs/timingbeltreplacementguide.pdf

https://dayco.com.au/databank/documents/99113.pdf

2 hours ago, Fadi said:

I recently Purchased 2013 Toyota Estima V6 Aeras and the only insurance company I can find is NRMA comprehensive for $2225.03 and that's will all my loyalty discount.

Normal is $2991.64. I really think this is very expensive even with the loyalty

You could try using an insurance broker and see if they can find a better premium. Main issue is that it is an overseas import so a number of insurers will not be interested in covering the vehicle.

Higher insurance premiums [if available] is a big reason why a lot of people do not buy these "grey" import vehicles plus also availability of parts.

Always a good idea to get an insurance quote before buying a vehicle. 

1 hour ago, Tony Prodigy said:

She definitely deserves high praise and recognition. What a terrible loss. A beautiful soul.

Gone looking at YouTube and plenty of trubute videos have been posted. I reckon that this video best demonstrates her driving skill and knowledge of the track.

19 hours ago, Lifestyle1 said:

Any advice would be gratefully received.

Glad to be here. Thanks.

Welcome to the Forum. I have yet to replace the head unit until absolutely necessary so always keen to hear of other's recent experiences. From a recent post, it is best that the battery is disconnected when doing the head unit replacement. This avoids a lot of issues with blown fuses etc.

When it comes to tyres, it is what is going to meet your driving needs. I am more interested in a touring tyre with wet weather performance. I have got a set of new unused Continental Ultra Contact 6 [215/60/16] on alloy wheels that I will be fitting onto my Aurion later this year. If I was looking at buying new tyres then I would be considering Michelin Primacy 4. Also Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin RE004 was introduced overseas in 2020 as a replacement for the RE003. Unfortunately, the RE004 has not yet been released in Australia presumably because they have plenty of existing stocks of the RE003. 

As a general guideline, do regular oil changes every 8000kms or 6 months. If it has not been recently done, then do consider changing the automatic transmission fluid.

17 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

So are you saying there is consideration to have yours replaced ? I was under the impression this had wrapped up already.

I understand that the claim period is limited to 10 years from the manufacture date. However if there was a previous record about the condition of the dash being reported to/by a dealership then Toyota Australia may favourably consider a claim.

Welcome to the Forum.

Nice facelift to the van to make "Mac" standout. Looks like a mobile artist's studio.

Hope you are keeping "Mac" well serviced with regular oil and filter changes to ensure ongoing reliability.

I did a Google search and got this result.

https://www.carsguide.com.au/toyota/celica/price/1972

This one is more promising.

https://www.justcars.com.au/cars-for-sale/1972-toyota-celica-lt/JCFD5016523

I found this following YouTube video to be quite enlightening to understand how existing vehicle manufacturers are adapting and introducing a range of electric vehicles essentially based upon their existing ICE vehicles.

Range, charging times and price are the main barriers to mass adoption of electric vehicles.

I can see so many of my thoughts/interests in flying cars, 3 wheel motorbikes, in this proposed production vehicle for 2021.

Interesting that their approach is all about efficiency thus enabling to achieve more with less. Also a different production method of separate modules which "self align" so that future assemby points can be positioned closer to main markets.

They recognise that it is a niche vehicle [not for everyone] but it certainly has mass appeal. I am thinking of it meeting immediate motoring needs as a commuter vehicle for a young or retired couple.  

Plenty of future potential disruptive technology shifts causing the existing vehicle manufacturers to adapt or perish. 

When was the last time that the timing belt and water pump were changed? How many kms on the odometer? When was the last engine oil and transmission fluid change and replacement of spark plugs done? 

More of a question to eliminate potential cause before considering imvestigating other expensive options of worn bearings.

44 minutes ago, Tony Prodigy said:

For a minute there I thought I had to bin my oil stash and start again 

You can bin your oil stash when you only have a 2020 or later vehicle that uses 0W-16 oil. 

I am using up my oil stash [more than enough for next 3 years for 2 driver and 2 backyard vehicles being mine and the girlfriend's] which is now predominantly full synthetic engine oil with the specification ILSAC GF-5. 

I had to read the following article a few times to fully comprehend most of the details.

Definitely need to know which oils are compatible with your vehicle. 

https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-tech/think-thin-gf-6-is-the-latest-spec-in-the-world-of-engine-oil/ 

The latest oil specification is ILSAC GF-6. 

https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/about-us/mobil-1/mobil-1-modern-engines/ilsac-gf-6 

3 hours ago, Sebzeneo said:

Does anyone know anything about Performance Chips?

They claim 40-60hp for $300

No direct experience with fitting a performance chip or re-mapping the ECU.

However, I have researched enough to realize that a lot of claimed performance gains are not going to happen. Also it is not so easy to re-map the ECU for the 2GR-FE engine. Apparently some have done this using a piggy back ECU.

What is certain that you are going to be $300 poorer then some more when any power gains are at the expense at pouring more fuel into the intake.

Better to save your money and go buy a faster car.