campbeam

The good news is that the engine is not blowing smoke. The bad news is that2GR-FE engine is more prone to oil sludge build up compared to other modern engines. Regular oil and filter cartridge changes using quality brand oils are absolutely essential. If you want a longer oil change interval [7-10K kms] then definitely use a full synthetic oil. Your choice whether you use 5W-30 or 5W-40.

In your case, I would be assuming the oil sludge is happening/has happened but not yet serious.

1.       If the engine was blowing smoke, then definitely remove the valve cover and clean the baffles in the cover leading to the PCV. Otherwise, I would be inclined to leave it alone.

2.       Definitely clean the PCV valve. Every time that I do an oil change, I do an engine flush using diesel. Essentially, drop the engine, replace with about 5 litres of diesel then idle engine for 5-10minutes.

3.       No bad experiences with oil flushes using the diesel or commercial products [a few times]. Been doing this on my Aurion for the past 5 years. Been doing the diesel as an engine flush for 40+years on my various vehicles. In recent years, I have also added to the engine oil 500ml of diesel and later changed to adding 500ml of ATF to help desludge my engine.

4.       Definitely clean the PCV valve.

I recently did an engine oil change using 5W-40 full synthetic oil. After about 700 kms, it has already changed to light golden colour;.so not exactly happy. Added some ATF to the oil, cleaned the PCV valve and also installed an oil catch can together with the existing inline filter and oil separator.  If you search, you will find the recent post with photos of this installation. Highly recommend adding either an oil catch can and/or an oil separator for your consideration.

6 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

the filter portion doesn't look anymore discoloured than the rest which could indicate that it's still quite clean. Is this a fair assumption ?

I am thinking that that is a fair assumption. One would think that the sock does the initial filter for any of the larger particles before getting to the fuel pump. Fuel filter will then take care of the much finer particles so that really clean fuel gets to the fuel injectors.

Replacing the fuel filter is on my to do list along with checking/replacing the suspension struts. Certainly thinking of doing both tasks while the rear seat is removed. It should be interesting to see the state of the sock and the filter given that I have been using lots of additive to clean the fuel system.

I have been thinking that the fuel pump got changed between the 40 and 50 series. Been looking on eBay but have not got a definite answer.

Here is another question. Now that you have cleaned the strainer/sock for the fuel pump, do you really need to change the fuel filter. Maybe it can wait for another day, or not. Given your troubles, once you have the part, you will want to check that it fits.

49 minutes ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Precisely Robert. It kinda looks like the Aurion assembly but the filter section is totally wrong.

If you look at the Ryco website  for Aurion "filters" selection both 40 and 40 have all their respective filters listed except for the 50's fuel filter where it's actually blank for some reason.  https://www.rycofilters.com.au/Search/SearchResult?make=TOYOTA&model=AURION&year=2012&liter=

That should've raised the alarm bell for me but never thought much of as the Genius sellers with their fancy "Fitment Guide" seem to know better.

I'm suspecting that either the Z936 belongs to another make of Toyota, perhaps Camry ??, or they just got the design horribly wrong.

I too will be keen to find out.

That aligns with my thinking that there must have been enough feedback to Ryco that they have now changed their current fitment guide for the Aurion 50 series to blank. A lot of sellers must still be using an outdated fitment guide. 

Ryco catalogue shows Z936 for the ASV50R Camry with the 2.5 litre engine. Just guessing but I would not be surprised that the fuel pump in the Aurion is larger/longer which your photos appear to indicate.

I would think that this is a warranty issue to be fixed by the dealer at no cost to yourself apart from the inconvenience. 

Looks like you did clean the pick up screen as shown in this YouTube video. At least the 2 hours would not have been totally wasted.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FLDNQh0nYU0 

Hope I do not run into the same issue when I get around to replacing the fuel filter on my 40 series Aurion.

Last oil change, I used full synthetic 5W-40. After 800 kms, it is already dirty being a golden colour. One Sunday, we did a highway trip to visit a relative of the girlfriend; women's secret gossip business and I had an afternoon nap. Upon leaving a few hours later, lots of white smoke out of the exhaust. So annoyed, I tried to remove the valve cover next weekend but missed removing one bolt. Subsequently located this Youtube video which I should have looked at before. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VEbfFiJbK2o   After a bit of thinking, I decided to buy and fit an oil catch can rather than have to replace the valve cover gaskets. This Youtube video showing the 2GR-FE intake explains why you should have an oil catch can. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o2BYkrf-388 

It has got to help having less oil vapour being sucked up into the intake. 

I have used a large zip tie as a probe via the PCV bolthole in the valve cover to remove some of the accumulated oil sludge in the baffle area [lot more than what I was expecting] and also cleaned the PCV valve.

I do have a few benchmarks to measure the effectiveness of fitting the oil catch can. It will be a matter of time to get some meaningful experiences/results as feedback.

Following pictures show the position of the oil can and the hoses to and from the oil can. Started the engine this morning and there was no vapour coming out of the exhaust. I am thinking that the extra length of the connecting hoses between the PCV valve and the intake is enabling more of the oil vapour to condense back to oil. I reckon that this is going to help the engine to run better and reduce the amount of oil sludge. Sort of kicking myself for not doing a few years earlier. 

Finished tweaking the installation of an oil catch can on my Aurion. Prior to this, I was using a combination of an in-line filter, an oil separator and 3/8 hose in a direct line to the intake. The oil catch can is now located near the ECU on the firewall, the horn and the front passenger strut tower. I used a battery hold down clamp as the main bracket which is bolted to an existing nut on the strut tower. The supplied bracket on the catch can is then bolted to the other end of the battery hold down clamp. Previous original vacuum hose going from the PCV valve to the intake is now connected from the engine intake to the oil catch can. Previous combination of the inline filter and the oil separator is now going from the PCV valve to the oil catch can. 

Initial installation was the previous weekend. Immediate difference was the lack of vapour out of the exhaust while the engine was still warming up. After a week, I have now noticed some vapour now coming out of the exhaust but it is quite minor. Also no oil in the catch can yet after only a week and about 100 kms. Planning upon posting some pictures very soon. 

With a maintenance type battery, you can easily check the fluid level in each battery cell and top up as required.

It is a different matter with a maintenance free battery but the fluid level in each battery cell will eventually go down. When this happens, the state of charge indicator will go from green to red.

The attached document shows how to restore the fluid level in the battery and potentially restore the state of charge indicator back to the green.

This has worked for me in restoring 2 Century Maintenance Free Batteries, one back in 2018 and one in July 2020.

How to easily Fill a Century Maintenance Free Battery.docx

Bank 1 is for No.1 cylinder. In the Aurion, it is the rear bank closest to the firewall.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zpd-5z32ZlY

Toyota Camry How do you replace a bank 1 sensor 1 A.docx

10 litre drums are ideal for 4WDs Engine Refill capacity for a Nissan Patrol is 10.5 litres. Only know this because my son mentioned that he uses 10 litres for an oil change.

Engine Refill capacity for a Holden Commodore V6 is 7 litres and 6.8 litres for a similar Ford.

2x10 litres = 3 oil changes for the Aurion [plus occasional  top ups, if required].

1 hour ago, mediaspacetj said:

I have a 2011 Touring with 154,000 kms on it, I only put 98 premium petrol in it, and I keep the services up to it at the scheduled times.
I use the cruise control on the highways and consistently get about 7.6L/100kms on long trips (about 8.2L/100kms on the freeway during the 40min trip the Central Coast to Hornsby) and driving around the Coast it's about 9.0L/100kms and I'm very soft on the pedals. Car still takes off about the same speed as the other cars. 
Very happy with my 8 year old Aurion.

I will have to keep your results in mind as a benchmark.

My 13.5 year old Aurion with 218K on the odometer needs a lot more servicing to get better fuel economy. Getting all ready for an interstate trip later this year assuming QLD-NSW border will be open at that time. Oh what interesting times we are now in.

Yes that SuperCheapAuto article was interesting. The voltage reading of the brake fluid explains how the brake fluid testers work.

Recent learning for me was to lubricate the brake caliper sliding pins using anti-seize copper grease. Something that I had not done in the past when changing brake pads. Now that I know, it is on the maintenance list.

I was looking at the tyres this morning after driving on wet roads to a car park. I noticed that the Front tyres [newer Dunlop] looked shinier than the rear tyres [older Pirelli] even though they were both tyre shined at the same time. Just thinking that the different tyre compounds can make a difference.

There is theoretical and then there is real life. For Urban driving I am aiming for 10 litres/100 kms. Not saying that I always achieve it but that is the aiming point. It all comes down to how much fun I am having driving safely within the speed limits as compared to driving for fuel economy.

Recently, I had the car jacked up and thought that the rear passenger brake was dragging a bit. Rear driver wheel appeared to be spinning a bit more freely. Ended up lubricating all of the brake caliper slider pins with anti-seize grease. I think that it has made a difference so it all helps with the fuel economy.

5 hours ago, Bigmike62 said:

Can't seem to do better than 440 klms per half tank and 230 klms for quarter tank

Aurion has a fuel tank capacity of 70 litres. Theoretical Fuel economy of 7 litres/100 kms = 1000kms cruising range. In the real world, I have achieved 7.838 litres/100kms on a trip Brisbane to  Wagga Wagga via Newell Highway. Different year, I had 11.921 litres/100kms for a return highway journey being 5065kms. Must have been more lead footed that trip or I got some incorrect fuel figures that included a mate's motorbike.

Anyway check/clean the air filter, mass airflow sensor and the throttle body for good fuel economy.

4 hours ago, Bigmike62 said:

Not happy that I can feel the acceleration has been subdued.

Maybe it is not the oil impacting acceleration. In my case, I finally discovered how to properly check and clean the mass airflow sensor MAFS. Acceleration has improved and the fuel economy has improved significantly. I currently have 5W-40 in the engine mainly because I did not have 5W-30 immediately to hand at the time.

Immediate thought is to remove the bulb then use a hair dryer to blow hot/warm air into the headlight housing to dispel any water vapour. Expect that you will have to use some flexible piping. Best to do this on a dry, low humidity day. 

First thought was to replace the ATF but this was presumably been done recently. Another thought is to also check the ATF level.

Next thought is to check connections for an overdrive/lock button.

Not sure if this is applicable to your transmission but at least it is a few starting points.

Guesses can be expensive. Best to do a proper diagnosis before starting to replace parts. However, I would be inclined to start by cleaning the mass airflow sensor MAF It is a regular maintenance item so worthwhile doing. Something else you can do, is to remove the O2 sensors and clean them.

Tip/trick that worked for me was to use brake fluid as a penetrating fluid when removing the O2 sensors. Got that one from the internet which was presumably posted by a Toyota mechanic based upon his experience.

1 hour ago, JaysonM said:

bad tyres as thread on few is low

Get yourself some decent quality tyres immediately.

On 7/25/2011 at 9:50 AM, Golfie88 said:

security code is normally the last 3 digit of your VIN no. If that doesn't work , then try "320" . That is the Toyota generic code from the factory. Try these 2 pin before you attempt anything else.

Handy information to know/remember about the security code.

Recent post is certainly pointing at the EGR cooler needing to be replaced/cleaned.

These URLs may be relevant as a starting point.

https://www.aftermarket.com.au/egr-cooler-repairs-on-the-increase/ 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBAwmXMAEQs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N4qcd9YoDoI

15 hours ago, AurionX2 said:

The alternator is aftermarket, bought for just under $300 from Auto8 in Wangaratta, Vic. Came with 5 years warranty, should hopefully last at least double that

Alternator on my Oct. 2006 Aurion went after 207500km. Sounds like I bought from the same eBay seller back in March 2019. Supplied alternator ended up being the OEX brand 

Still going strong and currently getting a workout recharging a recent flat battery from my standby Aurion.  

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Brand-New-Alternator-for-Toyota-Aurion-GSV40R-3-5L-Petrol-2GR-FE-10-06-03-12/111372269393?fits=Model%3AAurion&hash=item19ee4df751:g:GqMAAOSwGhpe8gvH